TechMasterMind

OK, thanks a million for your time, that's all :3

Firstly before anything else the way you explain things is pretty damn good, from clarifying that part about DSLR without being confusing to the general way you've gone about explaining this. I only hope you can put those skills to good use be it writing articles or making youtube videos
 
OK so are there like mounting names or something to tell if a lens will work with that specific camera within the brand? Like for motherboard/cpu slots we have lga 1151 or pga 1331?
 
$1000 Hahaha ha... ha... *cries in student life*
 
There are a few reasons I specifically want a real camera even if it isn't great:
1) I have been putting off buying a webcam for a while and that is the only reason I am allowing myself to buy a camera. As webcams even at £100 look very washed out etc. I looked at these cameras and thought yeah, I'd like to try that
2) So far as I know phone cameras, certainly not any under £100 would be able to change ISO, Aperature, Colour temperature or anything nearly as smoothly and because...
3) I want to get better at making and editing videos (its a hobby but I've earned from it in the past) I would like to learn my feild a lot better so learning all the extra things I would about real cameras has its own value. Even learning the short comings of my first camera will help me get that money back from when I buy my second in how much better that will be then what I would buy if I didnt know what I wanted.
4) "Pace of production" When I film on my phone and want to edit on my PC in after effects, I have to upload the video to google drive, download it and then start work on it. It would be really nice to just film and work on it (which I should hopefully be able to do with a direct hdmi connection filming in front of my PC. Alternatively I can just take the sd card out and plug it into my PC
5) Mounting and using the selfie cam, on those two cameras I can see myself as I work with the main camera and I dont change to camera position by tapping the screen to film with the flimsy way the camera will be mounted.
 
I could go on but I feel like this is enough where it justified? A real camera has real value even if it were $10
 
This isnt to say my phone wont have its uses but I would like to up my game in as many areas as possible.
 
OK so, in terms of starting off I won't be able to appreciate lenses for my use case so the more I spend on a lens the more is wasted whereas if I get a one size fits all my purposes lens I can know what I want and make better purchases down the road and start to buy lenses for whatever camera brand I end up sticking to?
 
So if I have the option between a $60 body and $60 lens and a $120 full set (because I can't see myself spending much more then that) which would I buy?

Also to anyone who says a 1050 or even a 1060 will be significantly bottlenecked by thunderbolt 3 which is effectively PCI-e 3 4x (PCI-e 1.1 16x) please ignore them as a titan V is barely bottlenecked by PCI-e 3 16x as seen in this video:
16x so i.e. it was be able to cope with pci-e 3 8x. Considering a 1050 is roughly 4x slower than a titan V you should be fine.

This would most likely be your drive you're using for both the game installation, which is probably a HDD being at 100% usage because your hard drive has to write your game files and THEN what you want to load next (whatever you clicked on) hence the input lag.
Edit:
Open up task manager if you are on windows (if not some other program that can measure drive usage) to check this is the case.

Being British I thought you meant something VERY different.

Being British I thought you meant something VERY different.

Because it is free performance, and its fun. Assuming you have a good cpu cooler to go with it

I guess you chose the desktop for the install folder for Steam. Uninstall it, then reinstall it to the default place (usually under YOURDRIVE/Program Files (x86)/Steam)

If you really care about AI are you sure you want to do it on a laptop? Are you really gonna be spending THAAAT much time on the road that the money isn't better put into a desktop of yours that could be upgraded to save more time overall?

Without personally having the two CPU's on hand I can't say if it's multi-threaded you tend to get roughly (if not slightly less than) linear performance gain when you overclock i.e. if you got 100% linear scaling if you went from 4GHz to 5GHz you would get roughly 1.25* performance gain if not maybe 1.2*?
Anyways you take this approx 33% if not slightly less (I think it would be?) improvement in this case and see if it's worth the total cost of the "upgrade" to you which would include the cost of a Z370 motherboard AAAND going from the 8600 --> the 8600k. So in conclusion if these were the only CPU's available I would get the 8600 but these sound like multi-threaded workloads which often benefit from a bit of ryzen treatment...
But the best way of knowing is to LOOK UP SOME BENCHMARKS!
And if similar processors come up then you can work out roughly how well cores/threads scale / if AMD or Intel processors are best etc. etc. and then apply that knowledge to the processors that you are looking to buy.

Haha well I'm running them on AIDA 64 memory stress test at the moment and they're running @ 1.392 volts most of the time (and that is the maximum) so they're not gonna fry in a week but yes maybe I should bring the clocks down a little.
But yh this is my first time ever overclocking RAM AAAND I bough it from eBay for £85 so I don't know what I'm doing so I might just be really really lucking out? But yeah I mean if you want to buy I'm happy to oblige!

Do you have any experience in repairing video cards? The only thing that I would know to do if it isn't displaying video would be to use the bake method and hopefully re-flow the solder. I would venture to say though that the seller has likely already tried this before he decided to sell it so inexpensively. 

Well you don't really need to go used unless you want to I guess, you can get an 845 with a 380 almost
 
could maybe get an 860K it's a bit more but you can OC it naturally, though this board is alright, it might be a bit low end for overclocking, hence why the CPU I threw in only has a 65W TDP
 
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/QjYT4D
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/QjYT4D/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 845 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  (£51.00 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A68M-DG3+ Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard  (£36.59 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  (£23.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£39.95 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card  (£169.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 335 Upgraded ATX Mid Tower Case  (£21.48 @ Ebuyer)
Power Supply: XFX TS 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  (£29.99 @ Novatech)
Total: £372.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-07 18:27 BST+0100