TeamPlayer22

Interesting development. I went through my settings on the monitor menu. There were two in the submenu marked FreeSync and Overdriver. I know what Freesync does but it's unclear what the Overdriver does. I disabled Overdriver and it seems to have fixed the issue. I'll have to do further research into these Korean monitors to see what this function is for and what disabling it will do to my refresh rate.

I'll try using the HDMI port instead and see what happens. I do have a TV but no spare monitor. I can try ordering another GPU to swap it in. That being said, if it does fix the issue, what should I try to pinpoint the cause with my current setup. Is this a type of ghosting, or is this something else entirely? All the ghosting videos I lookup don't show any color trailing like I'm getting. (Your able to view the videos right?)

Hello, I have been experiencing this strange color blurring on my monitor for a few weeks now and I can't pinpoint the cause. The specs of my computer are listed below. I have not changed any hardware/settings in the last few months and my monitor and GPU have been running fine for over a year and a half. I have include two short videos to display the issue. The issue started around the time I started playing Anthem but I don't believe this has anything to do with it since the problem persists on the outside the game as well. https://drive.google.com/file/d/16pzdq6jvbaYxEB2AwEXAE0qZ3QbgCXU5/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/12lCDm0B1FnHQ4wIgAdgQ9YxxWOSnB6R8/view?usp=sharing Specs: Windows 10 Pro AMD Ryzen 7 1700 8GB RAM XFX RX 480 8GB Gigabyte Gaming 5 Motherboard Crossover 27VV 2560x1440 AH-VA (IPS) 75Hz (60Hz but factory speced to overclock to 75Hz, has run without issue till now) DisplayPort cable for Freesync

Not quite, the doctors releases the files in batches at the end of each month. They do this in case the want to make any alterations to them before releasing them. Once they're released I download them directly to my computer so I don't have to print off the server. The printer is connected directly to my computer. When I tried printing off the server there was a huge delay and it slowed me way down.

My current occupation is an assistant for a practicing doctor. One of my tasks is sorting and printing the charting notes that this doctor creates for each patient visit. This doctor uses a personal template he has created in Microsoft Word 2013 as a skeleton for each of his charting notes. Each individual charting Word file is labeled as so: Last name of patient, First name Date of visit. The number of notes for each person varies depending on how long the person's stay was. Here's my issue. These charting notes are produced at a large rate and my current printing method feels inefficient and way to prone to human error. My current printing method is as follows: 1. Open file explorer to the area where all the charting notes are organized into sub-folders by month they were made. Select the desired month. 2. Click and highlight the all the notes that were made for an individual person in that month. Right click on the selected files and click Print. This will print those selected files, but they will come out in a random order from the printer. 3. Repeat step 2 for the all the charting notes for each individual in that months folder. The outcome of all this is a printer tray with a stack of semi-organized patient charting notes. Each individual's group of charting notes will be together in the stack, but they will be in a random order. As said before, each file has the date of the visit on the end of it to keep the files organized. When they come out of the printer the files that were highlighted and selected to be printed together will come out in the same section of the stack, but their order will be randomized. I don't know why this happens. The printer spooler also only seems to have so much space. Sometimes there's over a hundred files for a single person that needs to be printed but the highlight and print method only allows for about a maximum of about 54 files to be highlighted at a time before it just seems to not register the files after that and doesn't print them. This is also why I can't just highlight all the files in a folder and print them at once. If I did, people's charting notes would be mixed, and most of them wouldn't print anyway. So here's what I'm asking. Would anyone know of a program that can make this printing process easier? Something where I could open it, select all the files I wanted to print, hit print, and it would keep the order of the files as they are in Windows Explorer. Or a setting I can change in Windows to make this all simpler. Printer: Brother Black only Laser Printer I wasn't sure which forum to ask this question at but this community seemed like the best place to start. Thanks in advance for any help.

Very well. I'll try to back up everything on the drive. At that point I won't have much to lose. Either the in place upgrade will work, or it won't. I have on last question. Is there anyway to tell if the operating sytem was 32 or 64-bit from the command prompt or operating system files?

Okay. I've heard I may be able to do an "upgrade" installation on Windows 10. Basically I'll be upgrading my operating system to the same version which 'should' reinstall the Windows files, while leaving the programs and documents untouched. Have you heard of this?

Would it be possible to do an "in place" upgrade so I can reinstall Windows 10 without losing the programs?

I would gladly do a clean install, but I'd prefer to make a system image/full backup first. To do that, I need to get this thing to boot up to desktop. Is there any command I can run that will repair the registry?

The corrupt registry is on the original drive. I'm trying to find a way to repair it. Possibly using command prompt. I'd prefer to not have to reinstall the programs at all costs.

I'm dealing with the original hard drive. There is no cloned hard drive/SSD yet.

I was attempting to clone a hard drive to an SSD on an HP laptop. I used Disk Management to shrink the drive partition down to the smallest it would go and made sure there wasn't to much data on the HD for the 240GB SSD. When I attempted to use Acronis Clone software it gave me an error. I ran defragmentation on the original drive to clean it up and then ran error checking. It found an error and said it needed to restart to fix the error. I restarted and it ran the automatic repair and said the repair would take an hour. After 5 hours I shut the computer off and tried to restart. It went straight back to the automatic repair and won't go further. I pulled out the original hard drive, put it in a USB enclosure, plugged it into a working Windows 10 desktop and ran the error checking. It found an error and said it fixed it. I plugged the hard drive back in the laptop's drive bay and booted it up. No luck. It went straight to automatic repair. I went to recovery options and opened the command prompt. I tired bootrec.exe /fixmbr and bootrec.exe /fixboot. No good. I tried bootrec.exe /rebuildbcd boot it showed that there was 0 Windows installations on the drive. Finally I tried Automatic Repair. Not surprisingly, it didn't work. But I kept the log file which I will link. It pointed towards a corrupt registry. HEELLP! https://1drv.ms/t/s!AhrVjwlyjxjOhgBXyBa0Qd1ExR6m Key Section: Root cause found: --------------------------- Registry is corrupt. Repair action: Registry roll back Result: Failed. Error code = 0x2 Time taken = 31 ms

Worked great, thanks. I'll keep that utility in my toolbox. Anyone looking for a great price on a new 1440p FreeSync monitor, it's hard to beat this. Cheers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331834451124?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I've been running an Sapphire 7870 and wanted to upgrade to a XFX RX480, since I just got a 1440p monitor and it's shipping. I went to my "uninstall a program" section in the control panel and uninstalled my current version of Crimson 16.1. I then ran AMD's CleanUp Utility for good measure. 1.The screen went to low resolution, as it should, since I'd uninstalled the driver. Then I heard the Windows install sound and the screen went back to normal resolution. I went to device manager and found that Windows had already reinstalled the 7870 driver by itself. 2. I unplugged my network cable in hopes that that would stop Windows from reinstalling the driver. I uninstalled the driver from device manager and reran the CleanUp Utility. I restarted the computer and when it booted back the screen was at normal resolution and it looked like Windows had again reinstalled the driver by itself, even with the network cable disconnected. 3. I uninstalled the driver again and shut the computer off. I swapped the graphics cards and put the RX480 in. I booted up using a DVI cable on my Dell E228WFP (my current monitor, the new one is shipping). It booted up normally through the bios screens, but when it got to the Windows desktop, the screen went black after a few seconds and then the monitor went into sleep mode. It only does this when it isn't getting a signal. 4. I then booted into Safe Mode. Worked fine. The screen did not shut off and I looked at the Device Manager, it showed that there was an RX480 as the graphics adapter. I tried to install the Crimson 16.2 driver while in safe mode, but it kept freezing at the "Analyzing System" section and telling me to contact AMD. 5. I put the 7870 back in and booted up. Worked fine, no black screens. I uninstalled all drivers again and tried installing 16.2 driver. Worked fine, no errors. Shut down and put the 480 back in and booted up. Same problem, would go to black screen. Sometimes it will get to the desktop before black screen, other times it will only get past loading screen. I'm not sure where I'm going wrong. My last card upgrade was a lot simpler.

Does anyone have experience using the ZTE Axon 7 on a CDMA network, mainly Verizon? These are the frequencies ZTE claims it supports on its site: GSM/EDGE:B2/3/5/8CDMA BC0/1/10UMTS/HSPA: B2/B5/B4/B1/B8LTE: B2/B4/B5/B12/B13/B17/B7/B3/B1/B20/B29/B30/B25/B26/B412CA: B2+B4, B2/4+B12, B2/4+B29, B2/4+B5, B41+B41, B25+B25 After looking at Verizon's bands, this phone should be perfectly capable. However, I haven't been able to find a straight answer yet. Thanks for any help.

I've recently learned of the function of Google's Project Fi network and I'm very impressed by their business model. However, their restriction to using only Nexus devices doesn't make any sense to me from a technical standpoint. They claim that only the Nexus devices are capable of supporting the carrier frequencies that comprise the network (T-Moble/Sprint). However, if you look at the Nexus's supported LTE/CDMA bands, there are many other phones that support the same range of frequencies. This leaves me with the lingering question, is Google simply refusing to support other phones in order to force people to buy their device for 'their' network?

From what I can tell the issue seems to be isolated to those earbuds as the issue doesn't occur with other Bluetooth devices. However, how could any Bluetooth issue possibly make a phone restart? An earbud broke today so I already have a new pair on order. I'll clear the Bluetooth pairs and go from there. If it happens again, then I'll try a factory reset. If it happens again, I'm in deeper crap then I thought.

I have a T-Mobile Galaxy S7 Edge that I purchased new online and unlocked it. It is currently running with an AT&T sim card. The phone seems to work without a problem except for the rare network disconnect. However, the most persistent issue has been with the Bluetooth. So far it has had this strange habit of restarting whenever I'm at the gym and using a pair of Beats Wireless 2 Bluetooth earbuds. I researched the issue and the first thing that popped up was that it might be an network issue, but it happens whether I'm connected to mobile or WiFi. I tried repairing the two but that didn't fix it. I'm unsure how a Bluetooth device could make a phone restart. I'm preparing to do a factory reset but that is a last resort. Thanks for any help.

Yeah sorry, got a little carried away there.

I would go for the HyperX Cloud or Cloud II. The price to performance is hard to beat, and they are said to be very comfortable for long gaming sessions. Many have praised it for its sound quality, but that is a very subjective thing. I'd suggest finding a website that allows returns so you can give them a trial run and see if they suit your needs. Ebay has some good options.

I have an Asus M4A79XTD Evo motherboard. Will it be enough to drive the Cloud/II? I've heard the 60 Ohm can be a bit much for older motherboards. Will a sound card help at all with virtual surround?

So some sound cards say they come with 7.1 Dolby virtual surround as well as true surround. Does this just mean they will grant you access to some proprietary virtual surround software as compared to Razer's free software? Will a sound card really give better virtual surround or is Razer Surround the best free option. I know games are incorporating surround into the game but I can definitely tell the difference when the Surround is turned on.

$300 is a bit steep. I already have a pair of Sennheiser Momentum headphones. I'm just looking for a comfortable headset and trying to answer this surround sound question.

Hello. I have a pair of Logitech G230s and while the audio performance is good, the headband gets really irritating after a short while of usage. Does anyone have experience with this headset or a possible solution short of replacement. I am looking in to the HyperX Cloud myself but I can't figure out whether the Cloud II is worth the cost if I can just use the normal pair and Razer Surround.