Psittac

Not sure if I have shown this yet, if I did it probably wasn't fully setup.
 
 
 
 

Not sure if I have shown this yet, if I did it probably wasn't fully setup.
 
 
 
 

You need an amp, not a switch.

I was going to say exactly what @saintlouisbagels said, you're trying to take an unamplified signal and hook it to a passive speaker, at least that's my understanding of this thread.  That isn't going to work.  Also I don't know of any TV's that offer a powered signal for speakers, though I'm not on the up and up of televisions, just never seen it and don't know why they would start.

When he say's the DT770 OWNS the nth-100.......... he is being very black and white.  This is NOT true by any reasonable person in the hobby.  I have the nth-100 and the dt-880-600 and the dt-1990-250 and purchased the dt-770-80 for a friend and gave them a ride while I had them.  The DT-770-80 is indeed an excellent pair of headphones, but to say it owns the Rode? It just doesn't, actually for many reasons I enjoy the nth-100 far more than even my 880, and while it isn't as technically good as the 1990 I kind of like the nth-100 a little better for the liveliness it has.
 
Another thing to consider, the nth-100 will sound 95% as good on a cheap dac/amp or onboard as it will a $1k dac/amp pairing.  I haven't test driven the beyer since upgrading my equipment and I haven't A/B tested the two side by side, but I honestly believe that the Rode is the better headphone.
 
Alllll thing's considered, someone claiming that one headphone OWNS another just doesn't have the right outlook in general.  Headphones are subjective in just about every way.  And unless it's something like the AKG 240-studio, Hifiman Deva, hifiman R7dx, soundmagic sp200 which are the only headphones that I categorize as pure garbage, there is rarely any owning going on.  Hell even the Koss Kph30ci is a rockstar and it's $30.

I recently switched from headset microphone to external USB microphone and I'm a lot happier with the sound quality.
https://www.amazon.com/FIFINE-Microphone-Headphones-YouTube-AmpliGame-AM8/dp/B0BMFQP2ZZ
https://www.amazon.com/FIFINE-Microphone-Podcasting-Voice-Over-AmpliGame-AM8T/dp/B0C74GYW3J/
FIFINE's AM8 is great - the AM8T-model comes with desk clamp arm. It uses a USB-C input, and there's an XLR input if you choose an XLR interface in the future.
 
For headphones, I'm a big fan of the DT770 Pro 80ohm for fun bass and a wide soundstage, while also being closed back. I have a huge head and huge ears, and these are the only headphones I've ever owned that was comfortable to wear for 8hr gaming nights. There are other headphone recommendations that @Cocococo is more knowledgable about, but I don't have experience with them.
 
- - - -
The best value in audio quality is in Chinese IEMs if your ears are compatible (lol). Pro gamers use IEMs during tournaments, so it's not like wearing over-ear headphones is essential to gaming performance.
 
Crinacle has an extensive list of recommendations
https://crinacle.com/rankings/iems/
I would get the 7Hz Salnotes Zero if I wanted another pair of IEMs right now, but I currently have too many lol.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/7hz-salnotes-zero-iem-review.50226/
https://www.amazon.com/Linsoul-7Hz-Zero-Composite-Detachable/dp/B0B76YF5CY/
Or the Zero 2
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/7hz-x-crinacle-zero-2-iem-review.50534/
https://www.amazon.com/Linsoul-7Hz-Crinacle-Zero-Earphones/dp/B0CMZVZPCF/

I've been confused about this the entire thread.
I don't understand how your speaker works.
 
Powered speakers have their own internal amplifier and power supply. They get their power from a wall plug. Then the audio signal connects directly to the speaker via RCA or 3.5mm, etc.
 
Passive speakers need an external amplifier (typically a AV receiver) as a power source and audio signal. The audio signal normally connects to the receiver/pre-amp.
 
The picture in your original post appears to have RCA that terminates into bare wire that will connect to speaker binding clips. I don't understand if you're working with powered speakers or passive speakers. I am betting that you're working with a passive speaker, so you need receiver/amplifier.
 
How did you hook up your other 2 speakers?

Funnily enough I ordered one of these recently... 
 
So it may surprise people that the folding team leader is mining, or well in this case planning to mine. I like to make fermented foods and I have an outside cupboard that I use to make them, well much of the year it needs a 100w heater in there to keep the right temp,  I decided if I'm using that 100w anyway why not throw a miner in there.
 
I don't care about profit, but getting back some of the money spend on the electric to head it will be nice 

Not sure if I have shown this yet, if I did it probably wasn't fully setup.
 
 
 
 

Not sure if I have shown this yet, if I did it probably wasn't fully setup.
 
 
 
 

2021 Ford EcoSport Titanium 4x4
 

 
It was time to get a new vehicle, as my 2018 Jetta really didn't suit our needs anymore. It's struggled badly in the winters here in Reno, and it's getting harder for my wife to get in due to her bad back. It also got damaged in an accident at work by a drunk moron who crashed into in three times (here's a picture of the damage: https://i.ibb.co/RYjdSjw/20240220-113544.jpg).
 
After shopping around for a while, I narrowed it down to the EcoSport and the Kona, and ultimately decided on the EcoSport (the recent issues with Hyundai/Kia cars being stolen helped in that regard as well). I've had it for almost two weeks now and I'm super happy with it.
 
I know the EcoSports kinda get crapped on (and some of it's justified, the models with the 1.0, 3 Cylinder engine are crap, mine doesn't have that engine), but it suits our needs perfectly. I'm not someone who wants all the bells and whistles in my car, I just want it to get me where I need to go without any issues. The EcoSport has enough modern features to make me happy, but it's still very basic (most things are controlled via buttons as opposed to the touchscreen, for example). We wanted a smaller 4x4 Crossover that will allow us to go up into the mountains (see the picture above, I wouldn't dream of taking my Jetta there due to how bad the road going in was), but didn't break the bank to much.
 
My next goal is to get a tow-hitch installed so that I can put my bike carrier on it and actually be able to take my bike to some places I wasn't able to get to with my Jetta.

It finally showed up, holy shit. UPS lost this 3 times and mangled it in the process.

1989 muddy fox pathfinder, a cool bike from the UK, in overall fantastic shape considering its 35 years old
this is what I originally ordered, I presumed it was lost so I got my 80’s bike fix with that Marin Eldridge grade, and then this shows up 
so now I get to have two sick ass 80’s bikes to ride around 
 
anyway, UPS as I mentioned, mangled this, bent the derailleur pretty bad 

this is why derailleur hangers exist on modern bikes, if you smash your derailleur into something you just destroy a little replaceable piece of metal, on old bikes, it bends the whole ass frame 
I got it unbent good enough with a big wrench and fire

 
tore the entire thing down, going to completely rebuild and refurb it 

I forgot to mention that a Steam cache server is a total waste of time. Just my personal opinion.

Should be good to go then. I must have looked at a product with a similar number. 

A couple thoughts: 
 
1) Ubiquiti hass a very appealing product line for home use. I got into it and spent like $4,000+ in one month. The POE switches are very expensive and I got 8 cameras.
 
2) I recommend going to the Dream Machine SE instead of the Pro. I am not sure why the Pro exists, but it doesn't have any POE at all. You would need injectors for any access points or cameras, or a POE switch. While the SE model comes with 8 POE ports and 2.5 Gbps LAN/WAN configurable port.
 
3) I can't tell, but that Cisco switch appears to be 10/100 speed? That's definitely going to slow you down if you connect your servers/NAS to it. And of course if your internet speed is faster than 100 Mbps then you are going to have issues too.
 
4) A separate VLAN for IoT devices sounds great and amazing until you learn one big, huge important thing: it doesn't work for all smart devices. For example, Philips Hue bridges doesn't work at all. So while that's a good and fun project, I would not make it a requirement.
 
 

Get to learning my dude. There's really not much you can fuck up here that would be catastrophic. Essentially if you break something beyond the point of fixing you can just reset and try again. 
 
Start by creating the new "networks" in Unifi, make sure you tag with VLAN ID, learn how to add those logical VLANs to your Cisco switch and assign them to ports.
 
Learn to configure your firewall so traffic can pass in between the VLAN if you want them to and Bob's your uncle. 
 
If you want to really learn about the logic, consider watching some videos for CompTIA Network and Security+ and CCNA.
 

N100 and CM3588 are both very different. When it comes to low power the CM3588 still wins by a far (don’t get fooled by the 6w tdp from N100 it uses more) and HW video acceleration while a bit more to setup is more capable too. Just as a NAS it’s a pretty strong option. If you want to use ZFS with TrueNAS N100 is the way to go where there is also NAS Mini ITX boards available for <150€ on AliExpress.

but the CM3588 doesnt run anything that isnt compiled for ARM, and just about everything has a version compiled for x86. besides, you can buy N100 boards for around the €200 mark *here in the west* without dealing with aliexpress shipping taking a month.
 
also, the N100 is a beast among low power CPU's, like you state it 'can' turbo up if needed, but the embedded parts dont actually use *that* much more. besides, the RK3588 is quoted as being a 12 watt part for as far as i can find. on top of that, i'm pretty sure all of the embedded intel cpu boards have an option to disable the boosting all together if you absolutely want to go for efficiency.. but we're at the point that the drives will be using more power than the CPU.
 
also, your comment is irrelevant because:
 
having that said - both of these platforms have one shared issue for OP's requirements:
they're both limited on PCIe lanes, and by extension SATA.
 
if you go up to something i3-something or ryzen 3 something, you can still enjoy quite good idle power draw figures (like, actually shockingly close to on par with the embedded systems these days), but you have the "oomph" to run game servers, and the expandability to add several HBA's for extra drives if so desired.

well by not using an arm cpu board like the rockchip 3588 based friendlyelec nas
probably want something based off a intel N100 cpu if you want low power but it depends on the game server requirements

Edifier 1280T vs 1280TS - Indepth Comparison - SpeakerSavy
 
A very quick browse of that article says the TS has Blutooth.

Find whatever Edifier speakers that go for under $100.
At the moment, the Edifier R1280T is going for $84 instead of $120 on Amazon (Spring sale).
There's also the Edifier R1280DB for $100 sale (instead of $150).

Dude You're all over the place, you make no sense and I declare you a troll
 
You have little understanding of what @Heats with Nvidia is saying and you're taking what other's have said after the fact to prove or rather disprove your own statements.  From what I remember I don't always see eye to eye with Heats, but in this example you are just trolling.
 
No disrespect sir, but what dac's and amp's have you used?  I know it is probably many and perhaps I had a bad apple dongle dac, but that dongle dac is hot garbage imo, I even hooked it to an amp and the characteristic's of the dac were basically as bad as the fosi dac/amp I tested.  I will say that I have done very little A/B testing but when I did a budget rundown, while the onboard did remarkably well, probably second out of all of them.... The apple dongle dac plus amp came second to last only to the fosi.  I was only testing bass response but the entire characteristics of both were hot garbage.  Maybe I need to get another one incase that one was faulty.  However on Amazon you can't search for it, I have to go to "buy it again" to get the product.
 
I can say without a doubt, even with my sub-golden ears that given enough headphones, dac's, amp's and dac/amp's you will see huge improvement's given the right can's.  I do maintain that onboard hold's it's own on a high end mb, but the clarity of a dac and the power of an amp can not be forgotten *edit: can's always provide the biggest impact followed by pad's*.  Remember however that this forum, in the context of audio....IS a consumer forum.  9/10 people asking for advice here don't want to be told to spend the same amount as a competent headphone on a dac and/or amp.  If anything this is where I submit to the apple dongle dac, as a way to prove for $10 that dac and amp's matter and perhaps spur someone into looking deeper into the rabbit hole.
 
I have $5k+ in desktop audio gear simply because that bug bit me and I'm #40+nowifenokidsnochildsupportnoalimony and a good job.  I work and sit at my battlestation, so every bit of my disposable income that doesn't go to fish or car's goes directly into my desktop setup.
 
I decided to go down this rabbit hole because for years I had a pair of "reference" headphones and at a micro center threw on a demo pair of Blue Lola's, I got them but can't wear them anymore.  Anyways when I started to listen to reviewers online I didn't know what key terms meant, so I sought out every pair that was an example of said term.

That onboard audio should be fine tbh, sound cards are kinda bad these days, external DAC's use better components and integrate better into an amplifier if need be, a USB-C dongle DAC is more than enough for pretty much any headphone you're likely to buy.
 
If you feel like an external dac/amp is necessary then I'd take a Qudelix 5k over pretty much every desktop amp under Schiit Magni/ Modi stack prices, Audio Technica R70X are really good gaming headphones that tend to be the cheapest among the current 300usd-ish recommendations. If you decide to go for R70X then a good DAC is a good idea, high impedance and fairly high sensitivity tends to make them sound "grainy" on lower quality equipment. Last time I tried a pair on my Qudelix they sounded great, they are very reliable and replacement OEM earpads are readily available (this is a big deal, earpads dramatically change the headphones sound and Sennheiser are AWFUL to try and buy HD600 earpads from) 
 
 

Clean(er) audio. It depends on how good your onboard soundcard is in your motherboard, getting an external soundcard will alleviate that. Which mobo do you have? Also driving headphones that have a low sensitivity and headphones with higher ohms generally benefit more with an amp with more power which can drive all the potential out of the headphones.

They sell separate as well but yeah that USB mic is pretty good.
 
Yeah, I mixed it up as well. Thought, it was the Fiio DAC/amp soundcard without even looking at which model you stated.
But any DAC/amp soundcard around the $100 mark would be great from brands like Fiio, Topping, Sound Blaster, or ifi