Psittac

I can agree with everything said so far, at least the parts that I have personally experienced. DT-770-80 is a solid headphone and almost indestructible, plus Beyerdynamics replacement parts are great NTH-100 is amazing and sounds great without a dac/amp and Rode will 100% stand behind their product, a pleasure to deal with them (has an optional M variant with a mic and TRRS cable) IEM's are great but might pick up system noise but with how cheap they are you could get a baby dac/amp that'll be cleaner I would look at some other Beyerdynamic's like the Tygr and MMX300 AKG K361 is a great headphone but the stock pads are a little slim, easy enough to get thick plush oval pads for. The build quality isn't the highest, a little creeky but durable. Sennheiser offers a ton of excellent headphones, however I'm a snob with mine and if it's not a clean dac and powerful amp I don't want to listen to them, or tubes lol. I would out of best practices attempt to avoid the TRRS (4-pole 3.5mm) wire if at all possible, I don't hear about people having an issue with it but I always have a problem of output bleeding over to input. Look at the antlion modmic products, can't remember if that's only in north america this can be found. Perhaps consider a desk mounted boom arm mic or a blue yeti etc, it'll cost you more in the long run but will avoid what you're dealing with now of throwing it all out when something goes bad.

When he say's the DT770 OWNS the nth-100.......... he is being very black and white. This is NOT true by any reasonable person in the hobby. I have the nth-100 and the dt-880-600 and the dt-1990-250 and purchased the dt-770-80 for a friend and gave them a ride while I had them. The DT-770-80 is indeed an excellent pair of headphones, but to say it owns the Rode? It just doesn't, actually for many reasons I enjoy the nth-100 far more than even my 880, and while it isn't as technically good as the 1990 I kind of like the nth-100 a little better for the liveliness it has. Another thing to consider, the nth-100 will sound 95% as good on a cheap dac/amp or onboard as it will a $1k dac/amp pairing. I haven't test driven the beyer since upgrading my equipment and I haven't A/B tested the two side by side, but I honestly believe that the Rode is the better headphone. Alllll thing's considered, someone claiming that one headphone OWNS another just doesn't have the right outlook in general. Headphones are subjective in just about every way. And unless it's something like the AKG 240-studio, Hifiman Deva, hifiman R7dx, soundmagic sp200 which are the only headphones that I categorize as pure garbage, there is rarely any owning going on. Hell even the Koss Kph30ci is a rockstar and it's $30.

I was going to say exactly what @saintlouisbagels said, you're trying to take an unamplified signal and hook it to a passive speaker, at least that's my understanding of this thread. That isn't going to work. Also I don't know of any TV's that offer a powered signal for speakers, though I'm not on the up and up of televisions, just never seen it and don't know why they would start.

Not sure if I have shown this yet, if I did it probably wasn't fully setup.

I just got the KS0 pro and it came as the commemorative edition. I just thought I would start a thread and share my experience. I initially set it up on a Kaspa pool or two then quickly changed it to a nicehash account. I have found that about once a day it default's to the second pool which is the kaspa pool not nicehash and I have to restart the unit to get it back on nicehash. My current earning's are about $1.50usd in btc a day at a cost of 100w. The thing run's HOT so I purchased a USB fan and once I put it ontop the heatsink is cool to the touch, kind of odd that the chip temps barely dropped but the heatsink IE: body of the unit is night and day. I don't know if I will EVER pay this thing off through it's own work, however considering I used crypto I already had to pay for it, I'll consider it a wash at best. Currently I'm looking at 18 month's for ROI. I'm thinking seriously of putting a new overclock firmware on this thing to get a 50% increase in gh/s for about a 100% increase in power, that will drastically reduce my ROI and the only consideration is safety at this point. I have already purchased the larger power brick and will not run this new firmware until I have a DMZ set up on my network so it is sitting out in it's own space away from my other devices. FYI overclocking requires additional thermal concerns like paste pad's and mosfet heatsinks which I have. I could just run this on kaspa and horde my payout in hopes that it goes up, or take the daily cash out in btc from nicehash. I know that the firmware takes 1% split between the kaspa dev's and the firmware creator, however I'm unaware of how that works with nicehash. For what it's worth asicmarketplace is reputable enough that a couple weeks after placing my order I received my product.

I just got my KS0 pro and found out you can overclock them. Everyone redoes the thermal paste and pads, I'm fine with that and have everything on hand. But everyone uses custom firmware.... What are your thoughts on custom firmware safety?

Where yall getting your Apple Dongle Dac's? Cause the ones I got from Amazon are garbage, they don't even show up on Amazon search anymore.

It says 26 port gigabit on the back

I finally have my basement finished and wired with Cat6 and I want to dive headfirst into networking. I have a friend that's employed in IT and has done his own network, but I wanted to do my own research first. I'm not entirely sure what I want to do because I've never done this, but I know there is a lot you can do. I have a layer 3 switch that I've had for a few years and never used. (Cisco SG200-26) I plan on running 3 gaming PC's at times, a server or two or three, have a need for a separate IoT network. I don't know how much it would be to run 2.5gbe but that would be nice for a steam cache or update server. I'm currently looking at the Dream Machine Pro and U7pro. What considerations need to be taken into account? Machine's I have now 5800x/2080s 3900x/3080 7600k/1070 Poweredge R710 Poweredge R510 will be getting PS5 and Xbox plenty of IoT devices might add camera's some day

Would it be a good idea to run a separate computer for the server and just use the elec as a NAS? Or just combine it all into one?

I'm tired of owning countless "low" capacity HDD's being run by power hog's. I have a 12x1TB poweredge 6x2TB poweredge and 8x4TB desktop case waiting for internals. I don't need ALL of this space, I just have storage ADHD and keep buying new stuff and not getting rid of the old stuff. I was recently talking to a friend of mine about options for a NAS/server and this LTT video has really got me thinking. My goals: Store data for everyone in the family Run Plex Server for Friends and Family Run various Game Servers. I have several gaming desktops and two ooold Dell 2U servers. The Dell Servers are going to get sold hand's down because of the noise, heat and power consumption. My latest idea was to part out my Alienware 5800x/2080super and put it into my last case with the 8x4TB HDD's and just run it 24/7 but the idea of sucking up unnecessary power and producing extra heat isn't exactly making me happy. My second thought was to run several different m.2 drives in that Alienware (have a new mb ready for it already) Now this ELEC option has me reconsidering everything. If it was your setup and you wanted to run a few different game servers, like DCS Valheim and MC along with potentially others while running a Plex server capable of at least a couple 4k streams..... how would you achieve this? I'm not afraid of spending money on new hardware partly because I'm going to sell the Dell's to recoup a little of the upfront cost. I just don't want my main machine on 24/7. It looks like Nand Flash is currently around $50/TB and HDD's are around $15-20/TB but I really don't want to deal with HDD's crapping out if at all possible.

You need to find the boost function on your mic. hit the windows key or start button and type "control panel" then click on hardware and sound Click "Sound" And click the "recording's" tab and right click your mic Properties and levels And there will be a slider for microphone boost. Now, I'm willing to bet that the bleed over is caused by the TRRS connection on your headset, meaning that the ground is shared between input and output. This is an inherent problem with the wire and connector technology. While this will be less obvious on the rear connector's you may need to be aware of the potential problem.

One option is to get the SybasonicDAC and use it's spdif out Whether that is capable of a 5.1 output I'm unaware as it's a 2ch dac/amp. But that would require further research. I was just going off of @mariushm's idea of adding a piece of hardware to achieve what your old mb did. Also congrats on the space age upgrade, legit ballin!

Edifier 1280T vs 1280TS - Indepth Comparison - SpeakerSavy A very quick browse of that article says the TS has Blutooth.

Location makes a big difference

It's difficult to compare honestly. One is a wireless gaming headset from a reputable brand, the other is a wired audiophile focused headphone with the ability to add a mic. Also the price difference is rather large with the maxwell being about 50% more than the NTH-100m. I haven't tried the maxwell before but I hear at least one or two people here say that it's pretty good, and Audeze is known for amazing stuff. Though they did get bought out I haven't heard anything bad about their products since getting bought out. The Rode NTH-100 is imo the best closed back for the price and is a no brainer for anyone that doesn't want to get a dac or amp. I've experienced ~30 headphones first hand and these are my golden child, I'd say they are my third overall pick and first overall pick with onboard. Keep in mind that the TRRS wire which is so common on headsets, carry's the same potential as any other wired headset using one cable, and that's for audio bleed to occur between the ground on input and output. I rarely hear people mention this as a con but it's inherent in the physical connection. Either I listen to things louder than most or I'm just unlucky with it happening, but every headset I've used with this connector gets "what are you listening to" comments every now and then. It's not like game noise or regular music level will cause this, but if you want to crank the music while on comms.... it can be a concern. Basically do you want to max your budget and get wireless? or save a good chunk and go wired? That's basically what it comes down to in my book.

Rode NTH-100 does not need a dac and they are great for gaming, there is an nth-100m variant that includes a boom mic or it can be added later

There is a huge number of options at that price point. My personal ethos would be to invest half into a dac/amp and half into the headphone but that's just one way to do it. I enjoy this as a hobby so having the ability to power multiple headphones without worrying how it will sound is important to me. You could find a pair of headphones that are opaque and easy to drive. Opaque meaning that they don't reflect the source as drastically. Something transparent would be the Sennheiser HD600 and something opaque would be the Rode NTH-100. I kind of made up the term opaque in response to the common use of transparent. I have never tried either of those headphones, but the spec's for the R70x are really odd, rather sensitive but really high ohms. I know from testing my 600 ohm dt880 that underpowering something with that high of a resistance can quickly degrade the sound quality. The 880-600 is 96db and 600ohm compared to the 99db and 470ohm so the r70x is slightly easier to drive. I didn't do a full test but bass response was the first to go when being underpowered, it get's muddy and loose. I started to smell electronics heating up on the Fosi Q4 when I tried to use it to power the Beyer's. So far as I understand, the r70x really really wants a strong amp, and I would avoid it otherwise. The Fiio is also a high impedance headphone but "only" 350 ohm, though it does have high sensitivity at 105db. Still that resistance is pretty high and I would feel most comfortable recommending an amp on that as well. You may be leaving dynamic range on the table. When I think of ohm and db, I think of torque and horsepower. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The higher ohm's are the more current you need to get it moving IE "torque" and once it's moving the sensitivity is like horsepower, or how loud it gets with the work that the torque managed to produce.

Dude You're all over the place, you make no sense and I declare you a troll You have little understanding of what @Heats with Nvidia is saying and you're taking what other's have said after the fact to prove or rather disprove your own statements. From what I remember I don't always see eye to eye with Heats, but in this example you are just trolling. No disrespect sir, but what dac's and amp's have you used? I know it is probably many and perhaps I had a bad apple dongle dac, but that dongle dac is hot garbage imo, I even hooked it to an amp and the characteristic's of the dac were basically as bad as the fosi dac/amp I tested. I will say that I have done very little A/B testing but when I did a budget rundown, while the onboard did remarkably well, probably second out of all of them.... The apple dongle dac plus amp came second to last only to the fosi. I was only testing bass response but the entire characteristics of both were hot garbage. Maybe I need to get another one incase that one was faulty. However on Amazon you can't search for it, I have to go to "buy it again" to get the product. I can say without a doubt, even with my sub-golden ears that given enough headphones, dac's, amp's and dac/amp's you will see huge improvement's given the right can's. I do maintain that onboard hold's it's own on a high end mb, but the clarity of a dac and the power of an amp can not be forgotten *edit: can's always provide the biggest impact followed by pad's*. Remember however that this forum, in the context of audio....IS a consumer forum. 9/10 people asking for advice here don't want to be told to spend the same amount as a competent headphone on a dac and/or amp. If anything this is where I submit to the apple dongle dac, as a way to prove for $10 that dac and amp's matter and perhaps spur someone into looking deeper into the rabbit hole. I have $5k+ in desktop audio gear simply because that bug bit me and I'm #40+nowifenokidsnochildsupportnoalimony and a good job. I work and sit at my battlestation, so every bit of my disposable income that doesn't go to fish or car's goes directly into my desktop setup. I decided to go down this rabbit hole because for years I had a pair of "reference" headphones and at a micro center threw on a demo pair of Blue Lola's, I got them but can't wear them anymore. Anyways when I started to listen to reviewers online I didn't know what key terms meant, so I sought out every pair that was an example of said term.

I really don't want to argue, I'm drunk, my grandma passed away in hospice and my uncle got hit by a car and killed in a short time frame. Then the day after their funeral my dad went to the ER and got flight for life'd to have open heart surgery. That was this monday, so arguing about audio stuff isn't exactly what I want to do right now. But if I call on my memory of this thread, we have someone laying out an incredibly vague question using broken english, no hate on OP but it is what it is. And everyone decided to start arguing about no one knows what. What I do know is that through my hobby time of 4+ years in the headphone game, 15+ of HT and a lifetime of enjoying every last thing I got to listen to.... it doesn't matter if you have a $15 pair of Koss on a phone output or thousand dollar+ chain, it is all enjoyable. There are obvious outliers which provide dog shart, but it's all great. While I haven't messed with professional audio gear much, I know that it's all about the love of the hobby. I swear you could post "the sky is blue" and people will argue. I know what I have experienced.... Koss to a few K, there IS a difference. Whether that is worth it or not who can say. I don't even remember what we're arguing about. One guy says that sometimes onboard is garbage, another says that if you aren't production quality you are doing it wrong and onboard does everything anyone could need. *I'll read through all of this tomorrow