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Gabby2805

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Everything posted by Gabby2805

  1. You're a star! Thank you so much for taking the time to tell me all of that. I'm definitely heavily considering switching to air cooling now! I'll just have to see what Corsair say first.
  2. Thank you so much for sharing your experience and solutions - that's really helpful and gives me lots to consider. I suppose a lot of it will depend on whether they agree to send me a new one or not. If they do then I could perhaps stick with a stock fan or buy a 212 evo to keep me going until it arrives or even until I'm done with uni at the summer to avoid having to transport it for at least a couple of months. If they don't, then perhaps I'd consider getting a beefy air cooler like you mentioned instead. Could you please tell me how the noise levels differed between your personal build with the h100i and the work build with the Dark Rock Pro 4? That would be very interesting.
  3. Thank you very much for your helpful response. They are definitely two good options I can certainly consider. Thanks again, you've provided me with lots of useful information that I wasn't aware of across your several posts. I'm actually hoping to get a new PC case (bigger, quieter, cooler) either for or after my Birthday in just over a months time so that's something I can bring into the equation too.
  4. Thank you, I appreciate your advice. Its definitely worth considering I suppose, I'd just have to think about noise levels too.
  5. Do you really think air cooling is a better option overall? It isn't really a work system, its primarily gaming machine - it's just really handy for my course too. When I was choosing my parts, I was very close to getting a simple classic CoolerMaster hyper 212 evo. However, since I play very heavily modded Skyrim which puts a heavy load on my CPU, I didn't think this would provide sufficient cooling and that it would create far too much noise. For this reason, I thought liquid cooling was the right choice for me...but perhaps I was wrong.
  6. Almost 3 years ago, I built my first PC. All of the components were brand new including a 'Corsair CW-9060025-WW Hydro Series H100i V2 240 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler'. At first, my PC was very quiet and the performance was great. I have thoroughly cleaned it and replaced the thermal paste at least a couple of times since the the first installation. Over the last few months, I have noticed my CPU running hotter and my fans getting louder. Naturally, I just assumed these were signs that another deep clean was needed. My PC is very important to me, both for doing work as part of my Computer Science degree and my in free time for playing games. So, I have to transport the poor baby to and from my uni dorm a few times a year which unfortunately means packing it sideways in the original case box. I took my PC home this weekend and intended to give it a clean over the next couple of days. However, I tried using it at home first... and there is a horrendous noise coming from the cooler. The fans are extremely loud and there is an awful grinding/scratching noise coming from the pump. Today, I dismantled part of my PC to give it a good clean and look for any problems around my fans and radiator. I did not remove the pump because I did not bring my thermal paste with me. It is now relatively dust-free and I couldn't find anything that looked wrong...but unfortunately, the awful noises still persist and my CPU is now running at 100 degrees celsius at idle. My system has not shut itself down but obviously, I do not deem it safe enough to leave on since I don't want to risk long term damage to my expensive intel 6700k. The cooler is still within its five year warranty so I have sent a ticket to Corsair and I am waiting for a response. While an exchange would be brilliant, I would really rather not go through the hassle of battling my case for why I should get a new one and waiting who-knows-long to receive a new one while I'm basically stuck without a PC and have coursework deadlines. I'm really hoping anyone might have a suggestion of how I can fix my issue. Thank you ??
  7. Just wanted to say thanks for everyone's comments and to share that my solution is simply unplugging the Windows 7 drive when I'm not using it and unplugging my others when I am - it is a little bit of a faff but it avoids problems and it's only for one game after all.
  8. Sorry for the late reply, it was a while ago that they gave it away for free and I think it was only for a couple of days (an anniversary or something). But I contacted them and said my disc versions weren't working so they gave me a copy of the digital version to try - I had to prove that I own the discs though so that I could get it for free.
  9. I have an iPhone 7 on EE. My Dad has a Sony on Orange, and my Mum has an iPhone 4 on Orange. All of a sudden (since I went from Sheffield, UK to Cornwall, UK for a holiday which I'm now back from) I can't receive texts from either of them. I can receive texts from other numbers, and I can send texts to my mum & dad. My mum can send me iMessages but not normal texts when she has no internet connection. Also, they can still call me and I can still call them, and we can contact each other normally on WhatsApp. I've checked my message block list and they are not on there. Any ideas why they can't text me anymore and how to fix it?
  10. Thank you for your suggestion, I wish this worked for me. Don't even get me started on all the trouble I had trying to get Sims 2 working again Its always been fine until the latest Windows 10 update (1709). I managed to get the Origin version but that didn't work either. I tried so many things but it seems there is an incompatibility between Sims 2, Windows 10 1709, and GTX 1080s (and similar cards). That's why I went for this elaborate solution of getting Windows 7 just to be able to play it again. Thanks again anyway, glad its working for you.
  11. Hello, My main OS is Windows 10 installed on my boot SSD and I also have Windows 7 on another hard drive so I can boot either (because Sims 2 is no longer compatible with Windows 10 and I want to play it). I has been working fine for about a month, until yesterday when I booted Windows 7 and it performed a disk check. This disk check seemed to remove/edit all the Windows 10 files it found and basically broke it, so I could no longer boot Windows 10. I had to format my SSD and reinstall Windows 10. I'm now wondering what is the best way to prevent anything like this from ever happening again (perhaps Windows 10 will decide to break my Windows 7 next time). I believe I have been able to exclude my Windows 10 drive from the automatic Windows 7 disk checks, but is there anything else I can do? Advice?
  12. Sounds like you've got a pretty good procedure already. Just plug your power supply in and attach your wrist strap. Using the motherboard box is absolutely fine but I would avoid being in a room with carpet. Build it on your kitchen table or something. I wouldn't worry too much though!
  13. Oh wow how weird! I do have a PCI wifi card... I don't know if using a cable would be a possibility for me at the moment but maybe I'll try taking it out for curiosity! That would give me peace of mind really because the only thing the 100% usage causes is noise! It has no impact on performance whatsoever, its always very fast. Thanks for sharing your story, that could be really helpful!
  14. Ok thanks... its just that its always been noisy and it doesnt show any other symptoms of failure nor has it suffered heat/time/trauma or anything like that so I'd be surprised if it was already failing. Perhaps its been faulty from the start though.
  15. Windows is installed on my SSD. I am planning on buying a second smaller SSD and resetting my computer completely, reinstalling windows onto the new SSD and formatting the large SSD and HDD I have now before just using them for storage. But since Windows isnt installed on this drive, do you think it will make a difference to the noise? I haven't heavily used it in the 9ish months its been up and running.
  16. I have been using a Toshiba P300 7200rpm 3TB HDD along with a 1TB Samsung 850 Evo SSD for less than a year. I've always thought my HDD has been quite noisy and its increasingly worrying/annoying me and I'm wondering if I should consider getting it replaced while its still hopefully under warranty. Sometimes I'm not doing anything in particular but my Advanced SystemCare monitor tells me the HDD is at 100% usage even though there are no 'processes with high I/O'. When its at 100% for these few seconds, it grinds/scratches fairly loudly, its probably the loudest part of my build and I have 5 fans. The drive is less than 1/3 full and I do not use it heavily at all, it seems fairly random and can even be idle when it randomly shoots to 100% and gets noisy...perhaps its the antivirus or something running in the background when idle but I still wouldnt expect such noise or 100% usage. I don't know whether I should be worried because SMART doesn't detect a problem and I've not noticed any other signs of failure and its also not been through any of the main causes of failure, its always been like it but its either doing it more often now or Im just noticing it more and it annoys me. It isnt hot or slow or have corrupt files or anything like that...it just makes noise! It does seem like my model may just be a noisy one so if there are any other Toshiba HDD users, I'd appreciate knowing if you find yours loud too. Nevertheless, the noise does seem a little excessive/unnecessary. Advice?
  17. Got an SSD. 1TB thanks. I also want a HDD for mass storage like photos and videos. And I need a DVD drive. Do you never play old games? I need it for my old Sims collection, I even have a disc copy of Skyrim to speed up the installation, and I watch DVDs sometimes too.
  18. A variety really! Most of the time I can hear a very faint almost clicking sound or like the sound of a needle scratching but that's normal and not so bad. But sometimes, pretty randomly, it can get quite loud with almost scratching/grinding noises and even beeps/clicks. Its not even when I'm particularly using it either, I can leave it idle and perhaps background actions trigger it. I use advanced system care that has a performance monitor and sometimes when its noisy, it says under 'processes with high disk I/O' and it says Disk 0 is at 100% for a few seconds but I don't get how thats possible when most of the time I dont even have anything running. I'm also pretty sure disk 0 is my ssd anyway but even thats got 1tb and not in heavy use!
  19. Hi, I've had my PC for almost a year now and my HDD was brand new for it. It is a 3TB Toshiba P300 7200RPM. I've always thought the HDD has been fairly noisy - and sometimes it makes more noise than others and it can make a variety of different noises. I don't think it can be failing since it is pretty new and not heavily used - I've only filled about 1/3rd of it and I thinking about resetting/formatting it soon. I'm pretty sure its always made noises but for some reason its bothering me more now. Is there anything I can do to reduce the noise or should I be concerned? My DVD drive is also noisy on startup and when in use but since it is not used most of the time, it does not bother me as much as the hard drive noises...its almost like a grinding sound occasionally! Thanks
  20. I'm thinking about resetting my PC build to factory in the summer because I want to keep this fresh and organized. I built the system myself - it is not a pre-built. My build is almost a year old and I have lots of stuff on it that I don't need, so I'd like to do a reset before putting extensive hours into modding my Skyrim! I currently have a 1TB SSD with windows installed on it, and a 3TB HDD. I am thinking about getting another SSD of about 250GB to install windows onto and keep my large SSD for storage. I have a USB with the Windows installation files on it and I bought my license code from Kinguin. If I reset my computer to factory settings, can I install windows onto a new SSD using the same license code?..how should I go about doing this? Also, should I format my other drives? Thanks!
  21. Do you remember which seller you used?
  22. My mistake, it is sold by WINLicense GmbH....doesn't sound much better to me. Amazon's code is £85 for home and £150 for Pro. I'm not spending that much. I was planning on getting a disk from another seller on Amazon for £65-70. The code I found from that other seller is £30 but if its no more safe than Kinguin, I might as well get it for £20 on there since it comes with protection so if it is a dodgey code, you can refund it.
  23. It is sold by Amazon.
  24. I've just found out that buying a code from Amazon is just under £30, perhaps its worth the £10 more to buy from somewhere more trustworthy? Or, is it worth having a CD for £65? If I ever reset my PC, would I have to buy a new code?
  25. https://youtu.be/yXTqz3Fd28M So I watched this video by Paul's Hardware about getting Windows 10 for about £/$20 from Kinguin. I was just wondering if anyone has done this? Has it been successful or have you had problems? I have access to a PayPal Account, should I buy the code from here rather than buying a disk for £65 on Amazon?
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