Ein0r

Hi, I got tasked with repairing some old video files, but I don't know how. They are .mp4 and .mov files. The videos are short dance instructions, 5-10 years old, and look like the ones I attached. They worked fine in the past though. I put one of the videos into Da Vinci Resolve 17 and Vegas 15, hoping a fresh render would help, but it didn't even render in DaVinci. When I went through the video frame by frame it started to give me a "Media Offline" warning for some of the frames. The render fails with a warning that some parts of the video could not get properly decoded. I could render it just fine in Vegas 15, but that obviously didn't fix my problem and it came out the same. Are there tools out there, preferably free, that can help me with repairing those videos, or do I have to say goodbye because of whatever file rot has befallen those poor little tutorial videos?

For the money I'd need to safely diy this, I could probably buy batteries for these devices for life.

I'm really excited for this in general. But I've been only using chatbot so far to get a second opinion on my grammar and syntax, because I tend to write overly complicated sentence structures. And I let it give me recipe suggestions. For example for a sourdough bread that I didn't have the time to try yet, or the surplus of bell peppers that I have in my fridge right now, that I don't want to turn into ratatouille or stuffed peppers again. I get your concerns. The same things were said when 3d printers became a thing, and even more so when the quality of cheaper consumer grade devices improved. Bad things happen with those, and bad things will happen with those chatbots. The problem is that a line of code can be as devastating as a gun, or even worse. Especially because it is much more hidden. And even if it isn't hidden, you could show people, myself included, a piece of code and I would have no idea what it does. It could cause a power outage and delete all the files from my pc, or it could give me a program that allows me to control the lightswitches in my apartment. It's a lot less tangible than a 3d printed weapon. What could potentially limit it? Government regulation, as annoying as it sounds. It won't hinder bad people from doing bad things, but the vast amount of people from doing something horrible because they turned off their brain and their compassion for a few hours. It will be interesting and/or terrifying once those bots get integrated into the fabrication process, or inventory managment. Everything from managing time schedules to placing orders for just-in-time fabrication. Or get more access to stock trading, potentially manipulating it. Then again, chances are they are getting used or about to get used for this already. Scary scary, and yet so exciting.

I had a blast playing around with gptbot so far and this was a cool idea. I definitely would like to see a "Linus follows chatbot instructions about a topic he has no or barely any knowledge of". Or maybe a side by side comparison with somebody from the team who is actually knowledgeable about that topic. The sponsor spot was kind of weird, I haven't seen it this way at all so far. Is LTT sponsoring so expensive? Or did they not have enough money or big enough balls to sponsor the other parts of the video as well? From an outside pov it doesn't look like it would be hard to come to a rough agreement about the content of the video they are buying a sponsor spot for. I'd like to see a continuation of these chatbot videos if feasible.

TIL that I need a personal Jake to maintain something like this

I tuned out after the first half. And I'll maybe bother getting more information about it if need it. Maybe this mess has settled and they are at 'usb 5 part 6 gen3² with little sprinkles' when it comes to that, which will be a lot easier to understand. Hahahaha...

A month has passed, time to revive the topic again! I like the calculator photo. It looks a bit dark, maybe because of the light from above. 8/10 I took this one during a forest walk a week ago. I also took a few other colorful ones but this one was my favorite. Fortunately autumn is a very grateful time for photography with all its easily accessible colors. Fujifilm X T200, 45mm, ISO 250, F 7.1, 1/70s

The Nokia 3310 released in y2k, and 10 years later we had the Iphone 4. Maybe the jump won't be as big, but I assume 4k will at least be the upper standard. 1440p will be the new 720p and 4k the 1080p. I have no clue what improvements the future holds. My parents who are not really big into tech consider buying a 4k tv with a reasonable size this christmas. They also have the hardware and bandwith to watch and stream 4k stuff. And if I would scrape some money together I could also afford 4k tv, albeit a smaller one. The prices for 4k devices have dropped significantly enough that even lower income people like me can slowly afford those devices, let alone in 10 years. Yes, limiting the argument of: "now I have a 4k device but can't use it", just to Youtube's unwillingnes of offering free 4k resolution is a bit unfair, when you can also watch 4k stuff on other streaming devices. But given Youtube's enormous share of the content market, this demand is not entirely unreasonable.

One thing I dislike regarding the reasonability argument is the discrepancy between the two sides. On one side a company like Google is legally required to generate the maximum amount of profit, whereas on the other side the consumer/customer/viewer/paypig has to be reasonable. It's like fighting a military grade flamethrower with a Super Soaker. In theory, Google's argument is right. But this is a discussion that can only be held in an academical ivory tower, where nothing is at stake. Also give it five years, or maybe closer to ten, and 4k will be standard. How high is the chance that youtube is going remove the paywall from 4k content and only keep it for 8k and above? Or whatever the new high fidelity standard will be at that point in time. There'll just be another, higher paywall.

There's no microcenter in germany, maybe not even in the eu I was just throwing some hypotheticals into the topic based on my superficial knowledge about arc and intel cpus and the current state of my pc. Basically if I'd want to go for an arc gpu then I'd also get a cpu that works well with it. And yes, that's a whole different topic and not one that I can tackle right now or in this thread. And since I don't mind what cpu/gpu I have, as long as it is a good budget product. So why not go for a bundle deal that probably doesn't exist yet, but could help with making this gpu a much more tempting purchase for the broader mass that is in a similar spot like me?

Please gib money so I can buy Intel GPU, kthx. I'll find out what gpu to buy next year. Maybe a power washed rtx 30 series, maybe amd, maybe intel. They'll all be more than powerful enough for my needs. I'm also slowly gettting into the market of a new cpu. So... an i9+ arc gpu bundle for 500€? Because apparently you need an intel chip for it to work properly? GN said they wouldn't recommend it to people who don't mind troubleshooting, which means that an intel gpu is not for me right now.

Nice case.

Well, I can't. I'd be better off not existing, that would make everybody around me have a much better life. Oh. oooooh, you didn't mean that, you meant the desktop you are showing off? Hahaha, funny. Those titles are even worse than clickbait titles.

I haven't used CSP but I'm generally interested in everything editing or creating. How do the CSP products compare to the Corel products? I once got a Corel Painter Essentials 7 from a humble bundle, alongside Paintshop pro 2021. And from my pov as a beginner hobby user, that starter pack was already more powerful than what I would probably ever use, or that I'd have to hone my skills quite a bit to make full use of the starter programs in the first place. Yes, hobbyists are not the main target for this change and if you only focus on one software product line you need to find ways to make money once everybody bought your only product. For hobby users and beginners that subscription price is a slap in the face. The 24€/y for the PRO version is definitely acceptable. But at that price range you can proably just switch to a different one-time purchase or free software. But the 64€/y for a single license for the EX version is steep for hobbyists. And there are lots of people out ther that want to draw manga like their favorite artists who use the EX version, and who want to have access to the multi page feature, just so they can immitate those artists. So, bite the bullet and fork over 186€ now, so you have the option to buy a Battle Pass Update Pass once in a while if they add a feature you want? That way seems to be the only acceptable one in my opinion. But it also depends on the price of the update pass. It doesn't look like they'll go subscription only, but taking a step into that direction is more worrying than promising.

That it isn't a cool screwdriver or that it isn't a tall order? Either way, that doesn't change that it is too fucking expensive for me once everything is added up. Maybe without the 20€ shipping fee I'd potentially consider it for having a cool "all in one" tool for all of my needs until I die and until I can bequeath it to somebody worthy. Until then I'll have to go with an inferior brand, with inferior quality, not as much flexibility or convenience, but also for less than half the price of this tool. If you like it and have no trouble affording it, and if you get all the uses out of it that you need, by all means go for it. The above is my own problem and I'm only expressing my personal disappointment. I also got burnt by import tax once.

Yea, cool screwdriver, but 90€ and maybe import tax on top of it is a tall order for a screwdriver.

It is usb 3. At least I wasn't a complete idiot today. Unfortunately they didn't have any usb3 sd card readers, otherwise I would have bit the bullet and also got one of those to try. Maybe there is something limiting coming from the camera but there's nothing in the menu. I can switch between "off", "usb card reader" and "webcam mode". And bluetooth to connect with their own app but I don't really use that, it's awful.

Is there anything I need to have plugged in on the motherboard? The manual only says there are 10-1 pin connectors and a 20-1pin connector if I want to install additional usb modules, so I guess not. I have one 10-1 pin connector plugged in in usb56, and that belongs probably to the front usb ports of the case. With all the amateur testing I did I am also thinking that I just expect too much? Except for the fact that my tests with the 2.0 sd card reader are faster than everything on the camera and equal speed as the hdd to smartphone test.

Update on the cable: Fail? I bought a type c to a cable with usb 3.2 gen1 and 5gbps speed but I get the same 14 minutes for ~8gb of files. It didn't make a difference whether I put it on the 3.0 or 3.1 ports of my board. Okay, the final time for copying 200 files with each ~41mb takes around 11m30s from the sd card in fuji camera to my hdd. New cable, connected to a 3.1 port on the mainboard. It takes ~4 seconds per file, the task manager showed me that the spikes are at around 40mb, which is clear. And 200 files that take each ~4 seconds are roughly 13 minutes. When I use the cable to transfer the same files to my smartphone, it takes roughly 5 minutes from hdd to phone. Copying the files back from my phone to my hdd also takes roughly 5 minutes.

Thank you for confirming my hunch. Kind of annoying that they added such a lousy cable to a camera that has a 3.0 type connection. Maybe it was just meant to be a charger after all. Which means I'll have to go out tomorrow and get a decent cable and/or reader. Not that they are particularly expensive, but it feels a bit wasteful. On the bright side it is good to know that the rest probably works as intended and that it hopefully is just the cable. I'll give an update tomorrow after I get the cable.

I'm not entirely sure if this is the right forum, or if camera or storage would be better suited for this. I went to an event recently, took a lot of photos and some videos and copied them all to my hdd yesterday. There were ~1200 files, which add up to ~50gb of data. I copied them straight from the camera, the process took 50+ minutes. I played Runeterra in the meantime which probably affected the transfer but I didn't think it would be so grave. It took so long that I got an error message that something is wrong with my camera. Nothing serious, the battery ran out of power... After that ordeal was over, I did some simple testing. Because 50 minutes seemed a little long, even while playing a game. My Hardware PC: Ryzen 5 1600, Asus Prime B350+ Motherboard, 2x 16gb ddr 4 RAM, Win10 home 64bit, Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD I also did a chckdisk /F /R for that particular drive (E:) and no errors were found or had to be repaired. Camera: Fujifilm X T200 with a 3.1 usb type c port and the usb type c to type a adapter that was included with the camera. And for comparison a type c to a charger cable of a samsung phone (s8 or s10, not entirely sure, probably doesnt matter?) 2 SD Cards: Sandisk 128gb Extreme Pro, one with 170mb/s and one with 150mb/s A Hama USB 2.0 USB SD Card reader My old haf cooler master big tower case with probably USB 2.0 Ports (front i/o) I tried copying 200 RAW images files (~40mb per file, ~8gb combined) to the Seagate HDD, using different usb ports. Once with the sd card in camera and once with the sd card in the usb card reader. However I didn't complete each copy process, I only looked at the estimated times once they were shown. The results: HAMA USB 2.0 Card reader + Sandisk 170mb/s 6m 30s with 20mb/s on my 2.0 front i/o 6m30s with 20mb/s on USB 3.0 9m30s with 9mb/s on USB 3.1 port Fuji X t 200 with the type c to a adapter cable + Sandisk 170mb/s 14 minutes at unknown speed on all three ports. It only showed "copy" and gave me an estimated time after a short moment but no option to view transfer rates. Same result with the Samsung phone charger cable on the 3.0 port. I also copied 200 files to a different pc from the camera, using the 150mb/s card. That PC also had Win10 but I've no idea what type of usb port. It had the same result: 14 minutes for ~8gb. from camera to drive. But I have no idea what to make of these numbers and where my problem lies. My only guess right now is the adapter cable. Getting 20mb/s on a usb 2.0 card reader seems somewhat plausible? Except for when I put it onto the 3.1 port and got a slower result? But going by the numbers and the hardware involved with the camera, I get less than 20mb/s of speed on all ports, even when the connection from camera to pc would be a straight 3.0 connection. Attached are two images with combinations of task manager, resource monitor and file transfer window. The first image with the green transfer bar is from the usb sd card reader (on 3.0 usb port) The second image is the transfer from the camera, also on the 3.0 port. I hope this helps, if you need anything else please feel free to ask. EDIT UPDATE: I bought a new cable. Hama 5Gbps USB 3.2 Gen1. I connected the devices with the new cable and used the 3.1 port of my motherboard. It had the same results. It took 14 minutes to copy the same files from sd card in my Fuji camera to my hdd. It took roughly 5minutes to copy the 200 files (40mb each) to my smarthphone, and also 5 minutes to copy them back to my hdd from my smartphone. That's comparable to my usb 2.0 speeds.

None of our tvs and probably none of our monitors support hdr. Our smartphones support hdr maybe? Probably? So whatever, we don't have the money to make actual use out of it anyway.

Hi, the title basically describes my problem. I have Windows 10, Ryzen 5 1600, Asus B350+ Motherboard A gtx 1060 Two monitors that are connected to the gpu via display port and dvi port (AOC 27g2u with inbuilt speakers and an older BenQ monitor) A TV that's also connected to the gpu via a hdmi cable The TV basically works as my third monitor, and a desktop extension. Until recently, maybe a week or so, everything worked fine. When I wanted to watch a movie I changed the audio output to my tv in the windows audio settings, moved the browser window to my tv and watch whatever I wanted. When I got up in the morning I also woke up my pc and everything was fine. But since a few days my pc doesn't recognize my tv as an audio device anymore after waking up, it completely disappeared from the list. The same goes for the speakers of the AOC monitor. The display setting detects my tv and all my monitors but the audio setting only detects my logitech speakers. The Windows Sound Output would normally show 4 options (realtek, realtek speakers, monitor, tv) instead of only two. The Sound menu also only shows my speakers, and nothing turns up when I display deactivated devices or disconnected devices. But the "setting up digital audio" tab in the nvidia system settings recognize my monitor and my tv as "audio capable devices". Restarting the pc solves the problem, but that's quite inconvenient for me. Normally I get up, wake up the pc, watch a few videos and then turn off the pc when I leave the house. Restarting solves the problem Turning off the tv and back on, or the monitor for that matter does nothing. Unplugging the hdmi/dsiplay port cable doesn't help either. I pressed the reset to default in the nvidia system settings audio tab, without success. Edit: I also checked the Device Manager and under the adio input -output tab it only found Speakers, Realtek Digital Output and Stereomix. After restarting my pc, it also lists the TV and my monitor. Edit: As a comparison, this is how it looks after the restart:

Thanks, I'll take you up on that This probably confirms that I just have to factor in the crop factor everytime I want to recreate a certain look. Or when I need it for specific use case. And that I should buy a 35mm lense when a youtuber recommends getting a 50mm prime lens for various reasons. At least if they don't specify that it is for a crop camera. The fact a single lens could be considered wide angle, normal or maybe even a tele lens, depending on the sensor it gets attached to is confusing af at first. https://imgur.com/a/MKrW6Ne In theory, the blue 35mm angle should have the same size as the orange 50mm angle, provided the lens is big enough for the sensor. The bright side is that I'm nowhere near of getting a new lens anytime soon. Maybe in half a year or so. My next purchases will be a tripod and some spare batteries. But focal lengths and the looks of the various lense types come up all the time in tutorials and guides. And talking about it helped me a lot with getting all my incoherent thoughts and bits of information on the right track.

So, if I buy a 50mm that's designed for apsc- sensors, then I will always have a slight tele effect either way, because 50mm (as it is written on the side of the lens) is considered "normal" for full-frame. And to get a "normal" look on images, with an aps-c camera, I would have to buy a lens with 35mm focal length. But in regards to focal lengh, it doesn't matter for my aps-c camera whether I buy a 35mm lens designed for aps-c cameras or a 35mm lens for full-frame cameras. Except that the full frame lens is more expensive. Which means I'd always have to factor in the crop factor if I want to achieve a certain effect? The X-T200 came with a 15-45mm kit lens. If I wanted to achieve that "normal focal length look" for whatever reason, I'd have to adjust it to ~35mm?