The Flying Sloth

Pretty sure this has nothing at all to do with your USB connection. Couple of things could be happenning here, 1, if your unamplified signal wires going from the sub to the monitors are running parllell in close proximity to the PC power cable they could be picking up some EMI if they are not properly shielded. To test this try putting all power cables as far away from your audio cables as possible (or running them at 90 degree angles to one another) and/or try swapping the xlr cables around. If that's not it your PC sounds like it's introducing noise into the circuit your audio gear is plugged into and that your subwoofer doesn't mitigate the electrical noise as well as your monitors do, if possible try running the PC and audio gear on different circuits but if not possible the alternative is to use a power conditioner, now, most power conditioners do the same thing but all have varying price points, the cheap Furman ones should do just fine in this application though but that's not my area of expertise so I'd probably defer to the opinion of others on p[ower conditioner recommendations.

I must say, it's not often that a thread here makes me want to scream but you, my friend, have managed it quite well so accolades are in order. With relation to the current status of your headphones, if both sides sound the same after you only physically assaulted one of them it sounds to most likely be an issue with wiring / shorts. I'd suggest ensuring that the headphone connector is properly connected to whatever device you're using to test, if that doesn't change anything, to me it sounds like the voltage you accidentally applied with attempting to use it as a mic may have fried the coil.

Any particular reason you can't use your phone?

That's not weird, it's normal. Each input on an interface can only carry a mono signal unless it happened to have 5 pin XLR which so far as I am aware no interfaces have. Pretty much every interface you find will either split the inputs into stereo pairs (my UMC202HD does this) so that you can manually pick inputs by panning left or right where required or it will list them as discrete mono inputs. Now, pretty much all voice applications automatically downmix to mono to avoid having the sound only on one side but recording applications can't do this being that the user may actually want the discrete stereo signals.

DAC / converter is probably the last thing you8 should upgrade when considering audio quality. 1st is speakers / headphones 2nd is amplifier 3rd is DAC. Of course, that is unless the motherboard audio is noisy in which case any USB solution that isn't becomes an upgrade. If your motherboard isn't noisy and you already have good speakers / headphones and an amp and you have much better ears than I do you might be able to tell the sound quality difference with a high end DAC, now, if you have 'golden ears' there's not a chance one of those cheap DACs can stand up to a proper high end solution (not to say that the high end solutions are worrth the money or that cheap ones are crap, they're just designed with extremely different things in mind.)

Look, I think this thread has been pretty clear, you know what's right and what's wrong. If you can't afford to pay for the music the right thing to do is to listen to the music on your streaming service of choice and support the artist that way but depending on your jurisdiction downloading for personal use may be permissible. If you don't have the appropriate license, don't retransmit the audio, if you choose to do so anyway be aware you could be breaking the law and could potentially face penalties. In the end, nothing we say will change your mind, so do whatever.

For the price, imho, they do a damn good job. I own the KZ ATE, ZS3, S1 (TWS) and SK10 (TWS) (along with the Kbear KS 2 which are very similar designs) and they're all good under different circumstances. The KS2 sit at my computer along with all my studio audio gear in case I need to check how a mix or anything else sounds on inears, the ZS3 are my gym earphones, the ATE don't get so much use anymore but they used to be my daily drivers until I picked up the TWS pairs. SK10 are honestly the most comfortable inears (TWS or otherwise) I've ever used and the S1 (bought at launch) were my daily drivers for years and they did a damn fine job considering the price. Like I said though, I'm completely biased because I love the brand and they are one of few brands that I actually have any loyalty towards after spending extensive time with the alternatives at a similar price range. By no means do I only have their products though, I've just found over much trial and error that KZ are a known quantity when it comes to purchasing and that I'm often dissapointed by purchases of alternatives. I'm no expert on outputs though, I leave that to Rice Guru and Derkoli, my experience is more solidly with inputs (I did up a guide on purchasing studio audio bits here a while ago, still update it every once in a while).

You know how biased I am, I can't trust the list because there's no KZ

What you really need to research is the concept of Fair Use, I can play anything I want in a youtube video legally so long as it satisfies the concept of fair use, that is, that my content is transformative (not a replacement for the original content), that I am providing commentary or critique (no, a react channel does not automatically qualify for fair use under this one) and many other factors. Take a look at the Hoss V H3 lawsuit if you need further information, it is the precident for all fair use defenses.

Kbear KS2 should be another consideration here.

wha.... how...... Best I can tell the big plastic ones go on the outside and the thick plastic ones go right up against the mic and then the washers are used to reduce friction but I have no idea the exact order. This is the best reference image I could find If anyone here has the mic in front of them they may know better but this is the best I can do, sorry.

won't notice a difference

To illustrate the point, A few years back I was perm banned due to a report to mods from another user, the user completely misunderstood the situation where I was speaking to another person in the voice channel, not them, we were talking about specific game mechanics and the reporting user thought I was being rude. Spoke to mods and got unbanned because I hadn't done anything wrong and was talking to someone else (who wasn't offended nor supportive of the ban since I was just talking about game mechanics), as soon as the reporting user saw me back (on the same account) I was reported again and banned for ban evasion, after I had been unbanned.... I enjoyed the LTT Discord while I was there but dear god, there are some moderation issues.

Those mics are electrets too so will be more resilient than the true SDC capsule in a 990

NOOOO, DON'T, DON'T EVER PUT COMPRESSED GAS ON THE DIAPHRAGM OF A CONDENSER MIC, ESPECIASLLY NOT OUT OF A CAN, NOOOOOOO, NEVER

I'd tend to shy away from AT but they will do what you want them to and yes, they're XLR.

Hi guys, I have a Poco X3 that recently received the 12.5 stable update and since that time both my lock and home screens have been black. I've tried to change them in settings and with Google wallpapers but no matter what I do they just stay completely black. I've redownloaded and reinstalled the update, restarted the phone and there's even been another update with some more changes that did nothing for me. Would anyone know a fix for this other than factory reset? Because I have quite a few apps sideloaded that I'm not sure I'd be able to find again.

You should be looking for (at least one if not multiple) large diaphragm condenser microphones. This is extremely easy to achieve with LDCs take a look at the guide in my sig for more information.

Presenting : The most inexpensive MP3 player

If you need better quality audio don't buy a gaming headset, it's really as simple as that. Buy a proper set of headphones and either add a modmic or an external microphone setup. EQ can help modify the sound signature of the cans you have but it can't create detail where there is none.

I'm on the other side of the world to you guys and still order from Thomann because of the baller customer service, great prices and no-nonsense returns policy if anything goes wrong. I have very few loyalties as a consumer, in the audio space really only Thomann and 3U have earned that from me, if any of the other brands I recommend had superior products in the same or lower price range I'd jump ship in an instant.

Samson Q2U Tbone MB88U AT2005

I'd avoid the NT1-A, as a large diaphragm condensers go it's overly bright and it also due to being a LDC it picks up a lot of background noise. If you're set on an LDC the 3U Audio CM1 is a better choice for the price, if you're not set on an LDC small diaphragm mics would avoid excessive background noise. 3U has options there as do just about every other manufacturer. I'd recommend you take a look at the guide in my signature for further information. That interface is also overpriced for what it is, the UMC202HD will do just as good of a job and so far as stands go, the cheap Millennium stands from Thomann do a damn fine job.

Just run it through Discord or Zoom, have the DM on a laptop / IPAD so they can see the play surface, or even better, make the play surface virtual so the DM can control it directly.

I'm in a jurisdiction where every seller has to accept my returns no matter what because of consumer protection laws anyway . And I'm not purchasing directly from HRRM so their policies don't really apply The price listed is for a pair, as a pair that price isn't much above what your standard NADY or Shuaiyin ribbon would cost and as for the price being an indicator of it not being a rebadge... Telefunken sold rebadged Apex 460s as boutique mics for over a grand, and no, they didn't make any (meaningful) modifications at all.