Daymin

Do you have a second drive in this system??  Boot drive is always C:   If you do not have access to a 2nd computer, the simplest solution (it is cumbersome as it involves several steps but you will get all your data back) to your problem is to get a cheap SSD, remove the NVME drive, do a clean windows install with the SSD.  Add the NVME drive back in, make sure the computer boots with the SSD.  Now you can transfer files to the new SSD drive.  You can then put the NVME drive back in, format it; disconnect the SSD and install windows.  Going forward, it's always best to have a separate drive that is used just for data storage!

Realistically as long as you're not constantly writing large amounts of data you'll probably barely even notice the difference between an SSD with DRAM and one without. The initial data transfer will probably suck, and large game updates might not be the best, but it'll still likely be notably better than what the poor hard drive can muster up.

Best headphones for fortnite !
 

I've had thermodynamics lectures at uni so no I don't think that.

I can't cool my drinks with my custom loop? what a waste of money.

there is a screenshot threat: 
 
Just so you find someone who cares.

Are you shocking the keyboard, or is it shocking you? There is a difference there...
 
If you generate static charge on yourself by any means, then it is possible you will discharge that to any grounded metal surface, which might include that keyboard. This is not a hardware fault. This would usually manifest as occasional one-off events. Change your clothing or furnishings to different materials would most likely resolve it.
 
Conversely, if there is some elevated voltage on the keyboard, that is shocking you, that would be a very different problem. It is unlikely for a keyboard to generate high enough voltages unless it has really weird lighting systems, so the more likely problem in that situation is the power supply in the PC malfunctioning. What is normally ground is some elevated voltage. This type of problem should be reproducible at will, and be continuous. If this is the case, it would be a safety problem.

usually, the draw back is materials used in the automotive parts.
plastics and aluminum are the most common. using them in our PC presents challenges for prolonged usage.
galvanic corrosion is the worst offender. you can add additives for some prevention, but then it becomes a handsome bother whether the system is optimal because of using such parts. been a long time since we'd use radiators/heater cores from cars/trucks due to their optics.

Seems like a bad hdd. restore backups. if you don't have backups,
 
How much do you care about the data?
 
If you care alot send it to a data recovery service, they can do much better than any software solution you can try does.
 
If you want to do diy, make a image with ddrescue then go at it with a program like photorec, you will probably get some.

Problem is they take a TON of power to move much heat. I think the rule of thumb is they must be rated at least as much as whatever you're cooling. And here is the problem... you then have to get rid of the heat generated by both it and your original device. It can work, just horribly inefficient.

GL

I have thought about this too. I had a similar idea to you, you cool the water in your system with it and you can mount an air cooler on the TEC. Not sure how well it would work, but I think I might try it with another PC i have laying around. Seems like a cool experiment.

It's doable and I've seen it done before on the forums as a proof of concept, you will want to keep the loop with the peliter above ambient to not have to deal with condensation. Just note you will want close to double the wattage of the peliter unit to the heat output of the loop to have effective cooling.