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Daymin

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Everything posted by Daymin

  1. Solution: Copied the partition sector by sector with DiskGenius. (You need to create a new partition with the exact same sector amount as the one to be copied) Ran "bcdboot C:\Windows /s C:" in cmd/powershell Power down PC Remove OLD SSD Reboot Done
  2. OK AOMEI only pops up the license window every time I try to start the cloning even though it is supposed to be a free feature. Currently using DiskGenius to make the clone. Once the cloning is finished can I simply turn off my PC, unplug the SATA SSD and everything works? EDIT: the clone is done but it didn't clone the attribute of being a System Partition only all it'S contents.
  3. In AOMEI do I need to make a system, disk or partition clone? (System needs a licences the other two are free)
  4. I got a new m.2 SSD and therefore want to remove my old SATA SSD. The problem is that the SATA SSD is the System Partition and a Primary Partition. The SATA SSD isn't my boot drive as this is another m.2 SSD. All tutorials I could find where for the case if you want to reinstall Windows, which isn't my goal. How do I remove the SATA SSD without creating any trouble for Windows? I have attached an image of the Windows disk management tool, my OS is in German but it should still be understandable. I want to remove the volume called "HDD". "BOOT" is the boot drive.
  5. Are there any brands that are recommendable? They all seem unreasonably expensive for a simple corrosion inhibitor and a biocide. (Especially because coolants like EKWB CryoFuel don't even include a biocide.
  6. As part of a GPU upgrade, I will change my loop a bit and will replace the existing coolant. TLDR: What is the current best practice for coolant/additives? Some information on my loop: EK-Supremacy Evo Nickel/Acryl (5 Years old) EK-FC1080 Nickel/Acryl (4 Years old) EK-CoolStream CLASSIC SE 240 (Copper alloy tubing, Brass chambers) EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Copper alloy tubing, Brass chambers) Alphacool VPP655PWM + D5 Black Acetal Top Mix of old EK and Alphacool brass fittings. aqua computer Double Protect Ultra coolant Because it's a small-factor build I do not have a permanent reservoir and only attach one while filling and bleeding the loop. (My pump is already mounted to the back of the case because there is no space inside) I do live in Germany so the minimum would be distilled water as the mineral content of the water here locally is way too high. But should I add additives to the loop or use some coolant? I do not want any colour, particles or whatnot as the tubing is black and I don't see any of the insides anyway.
  7. More software is going to be supported the more users non-Nvidia GPUs get, but I know that Nvidia will be the easy choice for a long time. I haven't decided yet if I am willing to vote with my money on this matter, especially because I buy used. The only gaming feature from Nvidia I would be interested in would be DLSS but no RTX and any other nv software made for gaming is considered bloatware for me.
  8. Bud Radeon does have ROCm which is getting more and more support, like with PyTorch.
  9. My usual game is Rainbow Six Siege but apart from that, I play all sorts of games. Less of the current AAA releases and more games that are a few years old like the usual Steam sale purchases. Would probably play a bit Star Citizen with a new GPU.
  10. I'm currently looking into getting a GPU upgrade as my GTX1080 is showing its age. I will definitely buy a used card as my kidneys are preoccupied. To get a big noticeable upgrade from my GTX1080 I'm looking at something in the performance range of an RTX3080-3090 or RX6800XT-6900XT. The Radeon cards are 100-200€ cheaper than their Nvidia counterpart but: My problem is that for university and privately I do use Cuda quite a lot, whether it is for PyTorch, Stable Diffusion or LLMs. I can replace Cuda for PyTorch with ROCm on Linux and there are optimizations for Stable Diffusion. So there is more work involved in running Readeon but it would work. TLDR: But what other features and comfort, will I lose if I switch to Radeon instead of Nvidia?
  11. Figured out how to fix it myself without having to reinstall or make a backup: With the Windows Media Creation Tool on a USB-Stick access the Command Prompt in WinPE: Troubleshoot” > “Advanced options” > “Command Prompt” And then input the following list of commands: “bcdboot D:\Windows /S D:" (replace D: with the drive volume your Windows is installed on) diskpart list disk select disk 0 (replace 0 with your boot drive list volume select volume 1 (replace 1 with the drive volume your Windows is installed on) active After those inputs and a restart, I could boot into my original install without problems. Here is a tutorial for MBR and GPT drives. In my case, I had to change the drive letter designation of a secondary drive for all my folders and programs to work.
  12. In the process of rebuilding my PC I changed motherboards but kept all other components but now my existing Windows install is not found and I'm unable to install Windows with the Windows Media Creation Tool. I assumed that only changing the motherboard I can simply connect my drives and resume where I left off but the OS does not get detected. Here is my setup and my troubleshooting steps so far: Gigabyte X570 I Aorus Pro Wifi (BIOS Version F11) Ryzen 1700X (1000-Ryzen isn't officially supported on X570 but works with some BIOS versions) Corsair 2x16GB RAM Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVME BIOS settings are reset to default ("Load Optimized Defaults" whatever that means) Boot drive passes Device Self Test in BIOS All hardware gets detected in BIOS CSM Support is Enabled LAN PXE Boot Option ROM: Disabled Storage Boot Option Control: UEFI Only Other PCI Device ROM Priority: Legacy Only If I try to boot into my boot drive I get the "An operating system wasn’t found. Try disconnecting any drives that don’t contain an operating system. Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart" message. If I boot into "UEFI: STORAGE DEVICE 1532, Partition 1" (Windows Creation Tool) I'm unable to install Windows as the boot drive is MBR and not GPT. If I boot into "STORAGE DEVICE 1532" I can start the Windows installation but during the restart which the setup does it does not continue the installation and just goes back to the start of the setup. In the Advanced Options menu in the pre-install environment, I can now choose to continue to Windows 10 but if done so the PC restarts, and I get the no OS message. I went into CMD from the WindowsPE environment and on my boot drive D: there is now a Windows, Windows.old, and Windows.old.000, because of two failed installation attempts. I have deleted the Windows.old.000 folder as it was empty but my original install with all my files is now in Windows.Old. I moved the folders from Windows.Old into D: again while moving the corresponding existing folders in a "WinOS"-Folder. CMD inputs I used for this process. I know a clean reinstall on a formatted drive is the best approach but losing the data on my boot drive is not an option and I do not have another system from which I can backup the data from the NVME drive. How can I boot into my existing Windows installation or reinstall Windows without losing the existing data on the boot drive?
  13. That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you for the fast answer!
  14. I will soon convert my current big tower case to an ITX system, in the process I want/need to replace two of my drives: Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM006 2TB 3.5" HDD Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" SSD As I want to spend as little as possible I am considering the 4TB Crucial P3, which I can get for 200€ in Germany. (4TB M.2 drives with DRAM start at 300€) This SSD is DRAM-less, but in my logic, this will still be an upgrade to the two drives it is replacing. My main drive is a Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 500GB, which I will keep as my boot drive. TLDR: Will the missing DRAM create any degradation in performance compared to my current setup? Or is there a more sensible SSD in the same price range?
  15. Searching for a new laptop available in Germany in the thin and light category. I don't need the laptop right away, so I can wait a bit for a new release or restock. Below is my usage, requirements and current candidates, can you people of the internet give me some recommendations? Is there a better laptop with a better value/price? Wait for 5000U processors? Usage: Streaming light gaming Fusion 360, Gazebo, Python programming (light, as desktop is available) Requirements: 13" - 14" touchscreen with 300cd/m² brightness or more i7-1165G7 / 4700U CPU (or comparable/better) 16 GB RAM Thunderbolt 3 or preferably 4 long battery life (+12h) less than 1.5 kg max price around €1500 Nice-to-haves: Convertible Digitizer/Pen My current favorites: HP Spectre x360 14" (14-ea0080ng), €1600, out of stock until June Lenovo Yoga 7 14ITL5, €1200, in stock
  16. 1500€ Is the pain limit but I would like to have something for sub 1000€.
  17. I'm in search of a laptop with a long battery life that is compatible with an eGPU. The main usage for the laptop is browsing, youtube, and work (programming and light simulations) without access to power a lot of charging opportunities. In my off-time, I like to do a bit of gaming but I thought as a gaming laptop and battery life usually don't fit together an eGPU would be a good option. The current laptop I own is a Surface 2 which is not up to the task anymore for light work and I'm out of the loop what is the current best value options for my application. I'm currently used to a Ryzen 7 1800X, GTX1080 and 32GB RAM (which I don't usually need) in a desktop which would be replaced by the laptop. I've looked at the: Huawei MateBook X Pro LG Gram 17 Lenovo Yoga Slim 7 HP Elitebook x360 HP Zbook 14u What are your thoughts and recommendations on possible laptop choices? Is a slim&light laptop with an eGPU enjoyable for gaming? What kind of a laptop/eGPU would I need for steady 60FPS in recent FPS games? (e.g. Rainbow Six Siege)?
  18. Hello, I've recently started to play so more resource intensive games where my computer can't keep up with the game anymore at 4K resolution. I've got the 4k monitor for productivity so I don't mind a lower resolution for gaming. So naturally I started turning down the resolution to 2K to get better FPS and to reduce the noise from my blower style graphics card. BUT: As soon as I run a game in non native resolution a high pitched noise is present at all times. The noise is "played" trough headphones or speakers no matter which audio output is used. Switching to different resolutions/settings causes different notes of high pitched sounds but the only way to avoid the noise is to run the game in 4K. The high pitched noise is not dependent on the fps, as with the same settings at 200 fps or with a fps limiter at 60 causes the same noise. I use the display port audio pass-trough of my monitor for my headphones and the standard audio jacks of the motherboard for my speakers but it makes no difference. The most recent audio drivers from the Asus support page for my mobo are installed. I'm starting to get really frustrated from this issue as it stops me from enjoying games I want to play. Games I've noticed the noise: Satisfactory World War 3 Star Citizen The games are all early access where it would be easy to just say the game is the problem but those are also the only resource intensive games I play as COD4 or Supreme Commander or other older games I play are no problem to run at 4k. Hardware: Ryzen 1700x Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Aero ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero Thermaltake 530W PSU
  19. I do have a 4k display so I can max out my graphics card in anygame. 30 Watts more from the wall unter full load doesn't really matter.
  20. I think you do have a small error in your logic. You do need more power to achieve higher clocks. Higher clocks = higher temperature higher power limit = higher temperature The fact that you can decrease your power limit and increase your clock is a proof that you do had luck in the silicon lottery. That won't work for everybody.
  21. That would be the software approach but that depends on how good your silicon is. Additionally I do have a 120% power target to get the maximum performance.
  22. I've got a good deal on a used MSI Aero GTX1080. The card does have a blower style cooler so it can get really hot and therefore loud under load. To reduce noise I wanted to try changing the thermal paste with some thermal grizzly stuff I had lying around from my EK waterblock. Below is my before and after benchmark which speak for itself I think. A 10°C difference with a time effort of 15 minutes and no cost. Wanted to share my result as this a mod everybody is able to do.
  23. If you're pushing that much voltage at the cpu a 280mm Rad isn't enough to cool cpu and gpu. Adding a 140mm radiator will help but how about another 280/360 in the front? You don't need to another D5 pump in the loop that won't make a lot of difference,as you radiator size is the limiting factor nor your flow rate or head pressure
  24. Windows 10 gives you the option to keep your files when you don't change os and only reinstall
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