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About Daymin

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  1. Hello, I've recently started to play so more resource intensive games where my computer can't keep up with the game anymore at 4K resolution. I've got the 4k monitor for productivity so I don't mind a lower resolution for gaming. So naturally I started turning down the resolution to 2K to get better FPS and to reduce the noise from my blower style graphics card. BUT: As soon as I run a game in non native resolution a high pitched noise is present at all times. The noise is "played" trough headphones or speakers no matter which audio output is used. Switching to different resolutions/settings causes different notes of high pitched sounds but the only way to avoid the noise is to run the game in 4K. The high pitched noise is not dependent on the fps, as with the same settings at 200 fps or with a fps limiter at 60 causes the same noise. I use the display port audio pass-trough of my monitor for my headphones and the standard audio jacks of the motherboard for my speakers but it makes no difference. The most recent audio drivers from the Asus support page for my mobo are installed. I'm starting to get really frustrated from this issue as it stops me from enjoying games I want to play. Games I've noticed the noise: Satisfactory World War 3 Star Citizen The games are all early access where it would be easy to just say the game is the problem but those are also the only resource intensive games I play as COD4 or Supreme Commander or other older games I play are no problem to run at 4k. Hardware: Ryzen 1700x Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Aero ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero Thermaltake 530W PSU
  2. I do have a 4k display so I can max out my graphics card in anygame. 30 Watts more from the wall unter full load doesn't really matter.
  3. I think you do have a small error in your logic. You do need more power to achieve higher clocks. Higher clocks = higher temperature higher power limit = higher temperature The fact that you can decrease your power limit and increase your clock is a proof that you do had luck in the silicon lottery. That won't work for everybody.
  4. That would be the software approach but that depends on how good your silicon is. Additionally I do have a 120% power target to get the maximum performance.
  5. I've got a good deal on a used MSI Aero GTX1080. The card does have a blower style cooler so it can get really hot and therefore loud under load. To reduce noise I wanted to try changing the thermal paste with some thermal grizzly stuff I had lying around from my EK waterblock. Below is my before and after benchmark which speak for itself I think. A 10°C difference with a time effort of 15 minutes and no cost. Wanted to share my result as this a mod everybody is able to do.
  6. If you're pushing that much voltage at the cpu a 280mm Rad isn't enough to cool cpu and gpu. Adding a 140mm radiator will help but how about another 280/360 in the front? You don't need to another D5 pump in the loop that won't make a lot of difference,as you radiator size is the limiting factor nor your flow rate or head pressure
  7. Windows 10 gives you the option to keep your files when you don't change os and only reinstall
  8. My two cents: Your 8600k isn't bottlenecking your 1070ti. I've got a 1700x and GTX1080 and my CPU isn't bottlenecking my performance You should close or remove unnecessary programms game booster don't work, overclock your CPU if you're comfortable with it You bought an unlocked cpu so you better use it otherwise you wasted money At idle you shoud be around 1-10% CPU load otherwise something is wrong with Chrome, Rainmeter, Word, Excel and Taskmanager I'm getting 3% of load. run malewarebyte or roguekiller on your system even a fresh windows install can get maleware fast. Why is "Desktop Window Manager" taking 10% of your load? I don't even have that process running on my pc Hope I helped Quote me if you want additional help
  9. I think that depends all the coolant you're gonna use. I wouldn't recommend to use distilled water with stainless steel as distilled water is corrosive. From some work in a laboratory I know that highly distilled water is not allowed in stainless steel containers because it corrode fast. You won't be able to get "pure water" in any store but I would still do some research on a right coolant if you go for stainless steel.
  10. Didn't use any of the proper watercooling stuff I own just some cheap ebay stuff so something dramatic would have been fun. I've got a "spare" ek mx waterblock which leaks a bit maybe I will sometime try it again with that block instead of a aluminium one.
  11. Nope, really boring. waterblock froze ice "expanded" into tubing no water flow through block heat rises ice melts it didn't froze fast enough to crack anything.
  12. I've had thermodynamics lectures at uni so no I don't think that.
  13. I tried it once with a single 280 Rad and no heat load on the cold side of the loop my tubing froze...
  14. Should have build a TE-Cooler that can atleast get sub zero temps.