Rumman

Are you at stock settings ? if not, try it for a while (Ram too)
How is the health of your SSDs ? use CrystalDiskInfo for example
You could replug and reseat everything
Is your system up to date ? windows, bios, driver

Nope do NOT get a 1080p 27 inch the pixel density is low and stuff flat out looks bad when gaming.
 
The vg249qa is a cheaper version with a NON adjustable stand.
 
So say no you want the ORIGINAL vg249q as that is what you paid for not a worse version of it and not a bigger one that is worse.

For 1080p in 24", I suggest go for AOC 24G2SP. 

In that case absolutely not. The hassle of selling the 6600xt is enough to deter me from doing it personally. Just use your 6600xt and wait for a next gen upgrade if you're playing above 1080p, if you're playing at 1080p you can easily get through the next 2-3 years at medium-high settings depending on the game.

Your CPU is NOT bottlenecking your 6600xt

And I doubt your Mobo is either. (like the fuck is a "gaming board" its not a thing its a made up marketing word with no meaning other then RGB)

People in this forum need to pause before recommending people spend money on a problem that is likely not the hardwares fault. 

Dont part cannon other peoples money. 

Ram with different timing will just default to the lower timing. Try not running it at 3200MT/s you dont need it that fast. You can try some other JDEC/XMP profile that is like 2933MT/s or 2667MT/s, or worst case, the 2400MT/s JDEC standard. 

also make sure everything with your OS is in order and do a clean driver install. Some piece of software in the background may be the reason for the stutters so a clean OS install might help. It could just be limited to your specific game having issues in general. 
 

100 percent don’t do that, just get 2 8gb sticks if that’s the case

Open task manager while playing. If CPU usage or RAM usage is near 100% (and GPU usage isn't) while playing then you could improve performance by changing CPU or RAM. (Let me know what the usage numbers are at)

I'm a big fan of establishing what people need before telling them to spend their money.

I run Hogwarts Legacy at 1440p ultra and I have 2x8GB, it runs fine.
16GB is still plenty for most games, only a select view games actually uses so much RAM.

Check if the warranty transfers to you. Many warranties apply to original buyer only and may require registration within specific time.

+10000000000...... DO NOT substitute modular cables from other psus and ONLY use the wires that came with the psu or you WILL blow out your whole rig.

Used psu all the way
 
You usually get huge discounts over new due to morons that think psus only die after 5 years (even though they last anywhere from 10-15 years, mines nearly 12 years old)
 
 
There is capacitor degradation apparently but that shouldnt be a major worry, all that matters is the psu lasts awhile, and besides its an rm650 pretty high quality unit so if it dies all you are losing is the psu, but it problably wont be dying in your ownership unless you dont aim for higher end hardware in the future that requires beefier psus (id expect 7-12 years of life left depending on its age)

Don't buy a used PSU unless you know the seller (very) well. It's the most critical part of your setup and if it goes poof then the potential damage can be very costly.

because if you get a higher end gpu it won't be good enough probably, same wattage,  different functions... thats why a RMX is typically more expensive.  other way around why would anyone buy a RMX if the CX is good enough?  (for your current use case it definitely is though) 

And the GPU.
For example, rtx 3000 need vbios updates / firmware updates.

This is game issue, after the Hot Wheels update, ReBar is broken. 
AC valhalla is horrible optimized, so I'm not surprised if ReBar is also broken. 

Go in AMD control center, at each monitor, and double check what color space and color format is selected.
It's possible it outputs YCbCr studio (limited range) instead of YCbCr / Full RGB  , or maybe it outputs in 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 color format instead of YCbCr 4:4:4 (full 8 bit per color)

Should look the same on your computer, click that configuration/settings icon in the top right corner, then click on Display and you should get an image like the one below :
My first display is HDMI  and my second is DVI
In the picture below, you can see the Color Depth is set to 8bpc  and the pixel format is YCbCr 4:4:4  - that's the proper format, RGB 4:4:4 Standard is also good
 

You're focusing on the wrong things. 
 
Offline vs Line interactive is about how the inverter inside the UPS is used. 
In offline UPS when there's a power failure or too low / too high voltage (because it's non AVR) , the AC input is disconnected, and the inverter is started and the inverter takes power from battery and produces the AC voltage.  It takes some time for the inverter to start and produce the power required by the computer, usually at least 8-10ms.
 
Line interactive UPSes keeps the inverter running all the time, but works from AC input until there's an event which is outside the acceptable limits and then it switches to battery ... so the switch time is faster, usually within 4 ms. 
The AVR basically means the AC input voltage is monitored and there's some sort of auto transformer which regulates the output AC voltage within some limits (ex 200v AC - 260v AC is auto regulated to 230-240v AC)
 
The VA rating is important ... the power consumption of the devices you connect to a UPS should not exceed around 60-70% of that VA rating ... for example if you have a computer with RTX3090 that consumes 400-500 watts in total from mains while gaming, it would be best to get at least a 750VA UPS, preferably a 1000VA one, and you should exit the game to reduce power consumption as soon as you notice the power failure. 
 
Batteries will last a few years, depends on their quality and how often they're cycled (how often you lose power and discharge them). Depends on the design of the UPS as well ... does it use a single battery therefore pulling a lot of current from the battery when it has to produce the power to keep your devices working, or does it use 2 or 4 such batteries (as higher input voltage means less stress on the batteries when AC voltage is produced by inverter) 
 
It will also matter how the UPS is designed in the sense of thermal management - a cheap UPS may use a transformer designed to be cheap because they do the math and know the transformer can last for 5 years or so if it runs at 90c for 6-8 hours until the batteries recharge once a week or so... but they won't care that having a 90c transformer near the battery will heat it up and potentially degrade it over time. They treat batteries as consumable.
A more expensive UPS will use a better quality transformer and there's also  fans to take out the heat from the insides.
 
A regular computer power supply is supposed to work without AC input for at least 16ms, but majority can only do 10-12ms under significant load.
 
Figure out how much power what you connect to the UPS will consume, and multiply that by 1.5 and that should be your minimum VA rating. 
 
Note that if a computer has a 650w power supply, it doesn't mean it consumes 650 watts, most modern computers consume less than 100 watts in Windows, browsing Youtube, typing such messages in a forum. 
Even if you're using a CPU at 100%, a CPU by itself consumes at most 100-150 watts so with all the other components in a computer you won't consume more than 200 watts. 
When gaming it's another story ... depends on the video card ... a video card can consume anything between 30w and 350w depending on the model. The average 1080p video cards consume 125-200 watts just by themselves.
 
 

the g102 is a very good mouse for the price, has decent software(but GHUB could be improved) and it has a nice minimalistic look.
however, if you could spend abit more, then the g304 is a really really great mouse, it comes with the better HERO sensor, and its wireless too.

Just get 2 fans like 2 80 mm or 2 92 mm fans on there and you should be fine. The 1060 is not that power hungry to begin with. If you want to go a step further, Artic cooling has some nice GPU heatsinks available. They are somewhat price though and take up 3 slots. You can also use 120 mm fans if you want to, just make sure you can somehow mount them for good contact. You should be able to run them at 7V near silent without the need for a fan curve (which would require soldering them onto the original fan header on the pcb.

You could look at
 
https://www.autohotkey.com/
https://www.autohotkey.com/docs/Tutorial.htm

The Harpoon is definiely better for that price, get that.

Try enabling xmp and see what that gets you 
As for manual ocing it depends on your cpu
If you have a good imc you should be able to get it to atleast 2933 and then run both of them at that speed or 3200

Limit your budget to $20 up to $50 and don't even look above that for a cooler, it's not worth spending more for cooling a $150-$200 CPU.
 
Even a Snowman cooler from AliExpress ($18-$25) is plenty. That's the Cooler Master hyper 212 performance range.
 
The latest Scythe Mugen (5) would be a top choice.

It doesn't cause the CPU to heat more and the less clock boosting overhead is debatable.
 
The VRM (the circuit which converts 12v to the voltage the processor needs) can function up to a certain temperature, let's say 100 degrees Celsius.
Depending on how much power the processor consumes, this circuit will heat up more (because of losses due to efficiency).
If the processor overall doesn't consume a lot of power (which is the case for most 4 core cpus and some 6 core processors if you don't overclock them), this power consumption is low enough that the VRM doesn't reach that peak temperature ever.
With more power hungry processors, that peak temperature can occasionally be reached.
 
A processor doesn't consume a constant amount of power all the time, like for example a light bulb. 
The processor automatically adjusts the frequency of each core as needed - if you have an application or game that uses mostly two cores, the processor will reduce the frequency of the other cores or even turn them off for short periods of time to save power.
 
So let's say you have a quad core processor like Ryzen 2200g or Ryzen 1400 which consumes around 40 watts at maximum 100% on all cores, but only 10-20 watts when idle (when you're watching movies, typing a comment on this forum and so on)
 
When idle, the VRM will slowly go up from around 25-30 degrees Celsius ambient temperature and will slowly go up to let's say 40-50 degrees Celsius and stay around that temperature (the heat is dissipated into the motherboard and is moved away by the cpu fan and other fans in your case)
When you start a game or some application that uses a lot of cpu power, your processor starts to consume 40 watts or so, and now the VRM starts to produce more heat.  So, it will gradually go up in temperature and will probably stay at around 60-70 degrees.
A heatsink on the VRM will slow that gradual rise in temperature and will keep the temperature lower.
So for example, let's say with a quad core, it will take one minute for the VRM to reach 60-70 degrees in temperature and stabilize there. With a heatsink on the VRM, it may take up to 5-10 minutes to reach around 55-60 degrees Celsius.
 
Either way, the temperatures are well below that threshold of 90-100 degrees Celsius.
 
Now, let's repeat with an 8 core processor that consumes 100 watts when all cores are at 100%
 
When idle, same story, the cpu doesn't consume much.
When load, the temperature starts to rise up, and probably within a minute, you may reach 85-90 degrees Celsius.  With a heatsink on the VRM, it may take 5-10 minutes to reach 90-100 degrees or the heatsink may actually be good enough to always keep the VRM below 90 degrees.
If the temperature goes above 90 degrees, the BIOS and the vrm controller detects that and sends a signal to the cpu : "Hey CPU, try to reduce your power consumption and give me a bit of time to cool down because I'm too hot"
So, now your CPU will throttle, it will reduce the frequency of some cores and will turbo boost less often or not at all in order to consume less power.
As the cpu demands less power, the VRM produces less heat, so it will gradually cool down... it may take a couple of minutes to go from 90 degrees Celsius to let's say 70 degrees Celsius.
At some point where the temperature is low enough, the bios or vrm controller may tell the CPU "ok, you can go nuts again and boost and go 100%, I'm cool enough"
 
With no heatsink or minimal heatsink, you'll soon notice kind of like a seesaw effect where the temperature of the vrm goes up and down a few degrees. If you're doing something heavy that keeps the cpu at 100%, you'll however notice that after some period, once that vrm high temperature is reached, the cpu will more or less stay with a bit of throttling, because the vrm heats up faster than it cools down, so it never gets a chance to cool down and stay below that temperature threshold.
So, the cpu will always throttle a bit, which means it will actually consume less power and therefore should actually be a bit cooler.
 
 

VRM = voltage regulator module.
 
There's a vrm controller chip (under the text that says VSOC in the picture below) which controls multiple groups of components that convert voltage from 12v to some lower voltage... think of these groups like cylinders in a car.
Each group has at least one hi side mosfet, one lo-side mosfet, at least one inductor and at least one capacitor. They work together to create the power the processor needs.
 
Hi-side mosfets , Lo-side mosfets  (these can be combined into chips called power stages) , inductors (those gray/black squares) and capacitors (those round silver things closer to cpu socket)
Chipset creates more pci-e lanes, contains usb controllers and sata controller (System on chip part inside CPU also contains a sata controller and a usb controller for some usb ports that go on io shield)
Chipset also connects sound card, network card and other onboard stuff to the cpu.