Your best bet is to just get a TV (as with any high end display tech, TV is much cheaper, sometime better than monitor.) Samsung mini-LED like QN90B 43 inches have a 21:9 mode which will essentially turn it into an ultrawide (by turning the rest of the display into black bar) or you can just resize the height of your windows and use it with a monitor arm.
How to play games in ultrawide aspect ratio on Q70A, Q80A, QN85A and QN90A (seekingtech.com)
QN90B 43 and 50 inches are a substantial downgrade from the proper 55 inches and above however (which has a much faster response time, better viewing angle and local dimming zone), but they are also cheap and better than most display in the market today. If you can though, go 55 inches is a better use of your money (especially if you are using 21:9 mode anyway)
I know it is expensive, not sure why the monitors are almost double the price of OLEDs but whatever. I am just wondering if there are any other monitors I might have missed
I dont want OLED because I spend about 10x more time coding than gaming so I will for sure get burn in and wont benefit that much from OLED. Also it doesnt have USB-C or KVM
I understand your concerns, I just wanted to add that this monitor has the same LG panel as other more expensively priced variants which all have that pesky NVIDIA chip for VRR. So yeah in terms of the panel it probably is a very solid one. Just my two cents.
Hey there, does the Acer Nitro XR3 XR383CURPbmiiphuzx sound like something that you would like? It does do HDR600 with 750nits peak and it goes up to 165Hz OC. Sadly as it's a gaming monitor it doesn't come with Thunderbolt, but it has a USB-C DP mode. I also don't know if the very slight curvature is a big deal to you, but it's a very recent monitor (around a year old).
https://geizhals.de/acer-nitro-xr3-xr383curpbmiiphuzx-um-tx3ee-p01-a2654867.html?hloc=at&hloc=de
I hope I could help you a little bit on your search.
I was thinking the same but buying used doesnt help as much when you can write off the VAT if you buy it new. And with AMD we gotta get a gpu for it too and that's just a hassle
keep in mind though, that although G915 is perhaps the lowest profile mechanical keyboard, it's still nothing compare to a laptop keyboard with a scissor switch
I decided to buy one because of the same reason and I found my typing experience to be mostly the same as most mechanical keyboard - the only benefit I get from its low profile-ness is that I the keyboard becomes a lot more portable (important as I planned to carry it to work on commute) and I can use the desk as a rest instead of having to carry a seperated accessory.
If you're looking for a light, laptop-like experience you won't find it on this keyboard - at least on on the brown tactile switches, may be you will have a better luck with the red linear one
unfortunately, there's no real alternative that thick all of the same boxes - that's the reason Logitech can charge that kind of price on their product (it isn't even that good to be honest, the keys is a bit wobbly and low profile keycaps can be difficult to type on)
the closest thing you can get your hands on is probably Cooler Master SK651 but you will have to sacrifice the Lightspeed funtionality and so only have BT to work with (it's also a lot thicker than G915)
the other option however, is to try import the G915 in other language - some of the model are way, way cheaper than the English only G915. I got mine for just about 150 buck for G913 which is basically G915 with a dual language key caps
Corsair K63 is a great Option, but not low-profile, although much cheaper. I have it myself and i'm happy with it. It can switch between Bluetooth and the 2.4Ghz dongle on the fly.
Thats probably because the unallocated space is not right next to the C volume. You can move it around and extend it but you will need some 3rd party software, like EaseUS Partition Master or whatever else you can find
You can't enlarge C because that Recovery partition is right new to it.
You need to use a partition manager software to move the Recovery partition all the way to the right.
After you do this, the black "Unallocated" area will be near the C partition and you'll be able to enlarge the C partition to the maximum
So it's most likely two steps you have to do.
I don't know what software is best to use these days.
I use an iPhone and I wouldnt consider any other phone anymore, before this I had 2 note 9's and an S10, I would recommend at least trying an iPhone they're pretty great nowadays
There are a few with secure unlock, as Huilun mentioned, but those outside of the Pixel 4 won't do Google Pay or other secure payment systems you'd find in Europe and the Americas. And something to remember: yeah, you're not worried about anyone unlocking your phone using your face right now, but what about in the future? What about other people?
I look at the iPhone this way: a smartphone is ultimately a launching pad, not an end into itself. While added flexibility is nice, you ultimately want a phone that accomplishes tasks quickly, reliably and securely -- and in my experience, the iPhone generally does those things better.
This is an accompanying guide for our recent video trying out Pi-Hole.
Note: Image links will be coloured like this: https://google.ca
Parts List:
Raspberry Pi (any model)
We will be using a Raspberry Pi Zero (https://lmg.gg/8KV3n) - $5
You can optionally install Pi-Hole in a docker container, or inside a VM, but we will be assuming you are using a Raspi for the rest of this tutorial.
Micro SD Card (2gb+, but you should probably just buy a 16GB card because they're so cheap)
We'd recommend a cheap SanDisk card (https://lmg.gg/8KV3k)
2.5A Micro USB AC Power Supply
You can get these really cheap on eBay, but we aren't making any promises about quality. AdaFruit has a solid one: https://lmg.gg/8KVm8
*Optional*: Micro USB to RJ45 Ethernet Adapter
This is in case the RasPi you are using doesn't have an ethernet port or WiFi (if you're using the Pi Zero, you will need one of these)
*Optional*: Other stuff that you might need:
SD/uSD Card Reader (Unless your laptop, or you already has one)
Ethernet Cable (Unless you're using WiFi, you will need one of these)
Case for your Raspberry Pi Model (Nice to have to keep it protected, but cardboard also works)
Heat sinks for your Raspberry Pi (Nice to have to keep it cool, also helpful if you want to overclock your Pi)
A display connection for your Pi (Pi Zero's use Mini HDMI) (We will be doing a headless install, so this is not necessary)
Stage 1 - OS Install/Setup:
Before we can install Pi-Hole or anything else really, we have to setup our operating system of choice: Raspbian Buster Lite (stretch also works)
Download and unzip the "Raspbian Buster Lite" image from the Raspbian website: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/
Download and install balenaEtcher, our uSD card writer/burner of choice: https://www.balena.io/etcher/
Plug in your uSD card
Launch balenaEtcher, select the Raspbian Buster Lite image, your uSD card, and then click Flash. (https://i.imgur.com/GMSZj8Z.png)
If you're doing a headless install like us (no monitor/keyboard required), you'll need to enable SSH before booting up the Raspberry Pi
Replug your uSD card to allow Windows to recognize the new Raspbian partition layout
You should have a lettered drive pop up marked as "boot" (https://i.imgur.com/4ar0ih3.png)
If you don't, ensure your uSD is being detected in Disk Management (https://i.imgur.com/ZPmyyz6.png)
Then assign the partition a drive letter: https://lmg.gg/8KVm6
Create a file inside the "boot" folder called "ssh" with no extension (https://i.imgur.com/KDyB4nc.png)
If you don't know how to make an extension-less file you can download it here: https://lmg.gg/8KVmb
Plug your uSD card into the Raspberry Pi followed by networking, and then power.
Since we're doing a headless install, we'll need to search for our raspberrypi's IP address so we can access it over SSH.
If you know what you're doing, log in to your router's admin page and check the DHCP client/reservation list for "raspberrypi"
If you don't know how to do the above, download Angry IP scanner and run it: https://lmg.gg/8KVmS
Look for the hostname "raspberrypi", on that line the IP and MAC address of our Raspberry Pi will also be listed: 10.20.0.77 in our case (https://i.imgur.com/lK2ce0R.png)
Now that we've found our Raspberry Pi's IP address + MAC Address, we need to assign it an INTERNAL/LOCAL static IP address.
This process is going to vary wildly based on which router/DHCP server you use, so we'd recommend Googling your router's model name/number (can be found on the back) + "how to set static IP" (ex: "Netgear R7000 how to set static ip").
If you're willing and somewhat tech savvy, you might also be able to figure it out on your own.
Start by navigating to your router's admin page. The IP for this is typically located on a sticker on the back of your ISP's provided router (along with the admin page's default username and password), but you can also find it by running the command "ipconfig" in command prompt on a Windows PC. Your router's IP will be listed after "default gateway" (https://i.imgur.com/S2Ndc0w.png)
Log in to the admin page either with the Iogin credentials listed on the back of the router, or by googling the model number of the router along with "default password". Some routers use a randomly generated default password, so googling will not work for those.
Once logged in, look for a tab labeled "DHCP Reservation", "Static IP Assignment", or something along those lines. (https://i.imgur.com/FeMjd4V.png) You may have to go to the Advanced menu to access this. (https://i.imgur.com/6l4kIqH.png)
Enter the MAC address we grabbed earlier with Angry IP scanner, and then enter/select your desired static IP address (make sure you're using something not taken by another device on your network). (https://i.imgur.com/znUTbKv.png)
Hit Apply (or whatever the equivalent is for your router)
Re-plug the power connection for your Raspberry Pi, to allow it to restart and fetch it's newly assigned IP.
To access the Raspberry Pi over SSH we will need to download and connect to it with an SSH client
Download, install and then launch the SSH client of your choice.
We will be using PuTTY because it's simple, but any SSH client will do: https://lmg.gg/8KVmQ (https://i.imgur.com/POLV3i4.png)
Enter the newly assigned static IP address of your Raspberry Pi into PuTTY, and click "Open" (https://i.imgur.com/BegMcKC.png)
After it prompts you with "login as:" enter "pi" (https://i.imgur.com/jfULCu5.png)
Then for password, enter "raspberry". You should now be logged in over SSH. (https://i.imgur.com/Q058Sbw.png)
Now that we're logged in over SSH, start by changing the default password, and updating the Raspberry Pi.
To change the user password enter the command "passwd" and press enter.
You'll then be prompted to enter the current password (this is "raspberry" so enter that)
Then enter your desired new password
To update the Raspberry Pi, run the command "sudo apt update" - this is going to update the package list to tell us if anything needs to be update. (https://i.imgur.com/ECpLG93.png)
Then, to actually upgrade the packages now that the package manager knows which ones need updating, run "sudo apt upgrade -y". (https://i.imgur.com/EYfDhkC.png)
Our Raspberry Pi is now updated, set to a secure password and ready to install Pi-Hole onto!
Stage 2 - Pi-Hole Install/Setup (this is where the tutorial portion in the video starts)
With our RasPi's OS, internet, and SSH ready to go, we can now install Pi-Hole.
Copy the Pi-Hole install command from their website, paste it into the SSH client, and click Enter to run it: https://lmg.gg/8KVm9 (https://i.imgur.com/P20CP2I.png)
The installer will spit out some status updates until you're brought to the configuration screen (https://i.imgur.com/t0DHzHo.png)
Press Enter until you get to the "Choose An Interface" page. The default "eth0" interface for Ethernet users should be selected by default. Press Enter to continue.
("wlan0" should be selected if you're using WiFI - keep in mind WiFi installation is not supported in this tutorial, but if you have some decent Google-Fu you should be able to figure it out)
On the next screen, select your upstream DNS provider. This is where requests will be forwarded if they're not blocked by Pi-Hole (ie. if they're not found in it's block/black lists). We will be using Google DNS, and if you don't know what this means, stick with that. Press Enter to continue.
The following screen allows you to select which of the default block list's you'd like to use. We will leave these all on, but you can use your arrow keys and space bar to (de)select any of them as you wish. Press Enter to continue.
Next up, it will ask you if which IP protocols you want to block ads over, leave this at the default unless you know what you're doing. Press Enter to continue.
The next screen will list the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and the IP of your router, assuming you've set a static IP, just click Enter to continue.
If you get a screen about an IP conflict, just ignore it and click Enter to continue.
You'll then be asked about the web interface, web server, and logging modes. Leave these all at default by clicking Enter.
After all that, Pi-Hole is going to do a bunch of stuff, and it might take a couple minutes so sit back until you're greeted with an "Installation Complete!" page. This will list the IP and password for the Pi-Hole web interface.
Copy the IP into your browser, and log with the listed password. Huzzah! You now have a functioning Pi-Hole installation
Stage 3 - Setting Up Pi-Hole to Run on Your Devices / Whole Network
To enable Pi-Hole on a device-by-device basis, you'll need to manually set the DNS IP address in your device settings.
For each of these, substitute the IP in the tutorial for the IP of your Raspberry Pi
How to set DNS on an iPhone: https://lmg.gg/8KVmw
How to set DNS on Android phones (your phone manufacturers skin may slightly vary): https://lmg.gg/8KVmh
To enable Pi-Hole on a Router level, meaning it will work on all your devices automatically, you'll need to configure your router's DHCP server's default DNS settings.
This process is going to vary wildly based on which router/DHCP server you use, so we'd recommend Googling your router's model name/number (can be found on the back) + "how to set DNS servers" (ex: "Netgear R7000 how to set DNS servers").
Stage 4 - Using Pi-Hole + Common Whitelisting
To enable some common whitelisted false-positives run the command listed here: https://github.com/anudeepND/whitelist
For some great info on the Pi-Hole web interface read the lower portion of this tutorial: https://www.smarthomebeginner.com/pi-hole-tutorial-whole-home-ad-blocking/#Configuring_Your_Router_8211_Whole_Home_Ad_Blocking
I’d just run the 420 myself. If you have room add both. Run two 280’s a 140 in one of my rigs. The fans on one of the 280’s don’t turn on til the cpu hits 45c which isn’t often. That’s with 2 1080’s and a 4790k.
I have a 360 and a 420 infact i have a xflow GTS and my system is heavily overclocked and it does a good job as is mate, you should be fine. The more rad space you have the better the heat disapation and the lower the fan speed equals lower noise.
You should be more than fine. Black Ice stuff is top of the line and even though they are the thinner variants you still have enough surface area to keep those 2 items cool.
Going off their site (mind you this is best case scenario with very high rpm static fans) Those radiators have the following maximum heat dissipation rate.
360 - 1200w
420 - 1350w
so a total of 2550W of heat dissipation
With an overclock the 1950x can get in the 260-280w range of heat... so lets call it 300 to be safe.
worst case scenario a 1080ti with a modded bios and aggressive overclock can hit 350w
So that is 650w of heat...
I am guessing you can run 600-800 rpm fans for some nice quiet gaming and still keep them cool. I normally buy ML fans and set my curve so they are silent until my temps climb to say 70C on cpu or 45c on GPU... then they start to ramp up slowly. Which in my setup basically never happens lol.
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