staubgame

So, I bought a new tv last prime day and recently found that it turns up in the bluetooth window on any pc on my network. Around 100 or so times, all unique "smart tv" entries. (See screenshot snip) Bluetooth is deactivated, latest firmnware installed, also reset to factory default, all done with the hisense support. Sadly, they are out of ideas. Anyone know this or any ideas how to fix it?

I got myself a Thinkbook from Lenovo and I am happy with it, currently writing my thesis on it. From experience I LOVE thinkpads T-Series, but they come at a hefty price. If you're budget limited you could check out used thinkpads, there's usually quite the market for them and enough stores selling them with warranty. The Thinkbook strikes a good balance between as I like the type feeling (coming from thinkpads, that actually means something), it's similar to apple macs, but a bit less clicky with a bit more travel.

Hi, sorry for the delayed reply. The drives are mapped via GPO already. Inside the company, everything workes smoothly, this problem appears once she is at home, even every new morning.

The client has to connect manually after logging into his account. The NAS can be pinged and also accessed via folder (ip adress as well as device name, i.e. \\192.168.x.x\drive\folder or \\companynas\drive\folder\) . The drives are on a synology NAS. Not quite sure about fqdn, my knowledge is not that good in server/network. I was handed this issue and google as a tool to fix it.

So, I have this strange case with one worker at one of my clients, which I can't figure out. They are using Surface Pro 6 Tablets with dockingstation at the company and without at home doing home office. We set up a VPN connection which works fine for 10+ workers except one. At this one surface, the network drives (mapped via GPO) tend to not show up. This can be solved by restarting the tablet several times (first time never worked so far, more like 3-4 times) and at some point it magically works again, then everything is fine. Has anyone have had this issue or any idea, where to look? P.S.: The Server is running Windows Server 2016 Standard, a local domain is set up with policies and the drives are mapped via groups to each user.

Hey guys, last weekend I build a budget rig for myself sporting an AMD Ryzen 3200G with box wraith stealth cooler thingy AsRock B450M-HDV Motherboard (a single) 8GB Crucial DDR4-3200 RAM Stick (want to upgrade later with a second) no GPU This is my first AMD build in well over a century (kinda sad but I'm happy AMD is back) so my questions appear very noob-ish. I finished the build and booted it and right away I had green snow all over the screen. However this disappears as soon as anything happens, either windows booting up or me entering the bios. I have not yet installed some games to try but temperature was bellow 50°C so should be good. When isntalling the driver package there was an error and the whole screen turned blurry and pink (like an old vga cable that's not plugged in correctly) but that was gone after a reboot and then the driver installer finished without an issue. BIOS I checked and no image version was found, but I'll have to check again today as this left me a bit confused. I downloaded the latest from the asrock site but "none found" seems wrong. anyhow, I'll update on that one. What could this be? Unlucky pick in CPU (APU) or did I miss something?

Lasted a few days thus far But it's currently cloning to the new drive.

Funny how with a customer, that would the the very first thing I'd say as well, yet for my own drive I doubt myself and try to tell myself it's still good... ^^ I was able to get a drive from work so unless I open it, no charge. :) That bad, huh xP Thank you two. :)

Hey guys, I am kinda sure this is bad news but I wanted to confirm it with someone. I'm using a WD Blue 1TB 2.5'' HDD as data storage next to my SSDs and it always had a very short spin down time, just 2 minutes or so. This was, apparently, manufacture intended for whatever the reason. (Energy saving, dark elven magic, who knows!) Now, I fear after just 3 years the inevitable happend, a clicking noise whenever the drives stops. It's one loud click, like a screw dropping in an empty case. Clearly audible. And since the HDD spins up every few minutes and stops. it happens frequently. Currently the drive works fine (except the clicking) so I already got a new drive but before I open the packing, I wanted to make sure it's time to switch the drive or if I could save the money. Thanks Edit: Smart Values are good, nothing close to alarming. Temperature also (always) low. See attached, oddly anime-styled cristal disk image.

So, I currently have the chance to get these DT990 Pro for very cheap from a friend. I tried them on and they are quite comfortable but I feel in terms of sound they are lacking. I have Sony MDR-XB500 which are very bass-heavy. Aparently all Sony are. They are old and "not quite yet but close to" falling apart. Would the change be worth it? New headphones are on my list this year anyway. What is that about the 250 Ohm resistenace? Would I need additional eqiupment like an amplifier? From a quick tryout I can't 100% say for sure, the beyer have a very clear audio profile while the sony feel more alive due to the bass. Use case would be music on my laptop in my garden, mostly. On rare occasion a movie (sound system amp present in that case) Whelp, any help greatly appreciated.

Sure I do. I currently assume it's because my provider uses a hotspot for all his clients and someone simply connected to "mine" hotspot instead his own wifi. I know my network so it's definetly someone outside. Just curious, before I run around changing all passwords.

So, I just happend to check connected devices to my router and saw that there is currently Samsung Galaxy A5 connected to one of my repeaters. Now, no one I know uses an A5 and I am rather curious who's phone that is. Any way of finding out that does not barge into illegal territory? Like, ip phone call it or something.

God effing damn it. Thank you. <.< >.> Man I kinda feel stupid. Not my day.

So, waaaay off topic. I know. But maybe someone can help me as I fail. My fridge lg gsl325pzyz fails to suck in any water and thus not producing ice cubes. LGs support is terrible. The only thing I found was that there's air in the tube and I have to get it out. To do so I can either push the cycle button (which did not help) or unplugg the tube and flush out any water inside. So I went bellow my fridge, found the tube and the connector and promptly broke it. So question one: How do I un-do these coupling? (image) As you can see I took it out and already ordered a new one, at least it's only plastic. But for future reference. Pulling, turning and several rythmic push-pull variations did not work. Next thing would be the ice maker / water itself, since ofcourse it's not sucking in any water and there's no water coming out of the disconnected tubes either (which should happen according to LGs forum). I assume there's no water at all in there after the tank (it's a water tank inside the door). When pushing the water button I hear the pump pumping but nothing happens. It simply runs dry. Any ideas how to fix that? (once I replaced the part I broke) Cheers

Hey, sorry for being quite for a few Days. As mentioned earlier, the son of the owner wanted to do it himself so I had to take it back to her. Thus no solution but done here. Thanks a lot for your help anyhow.

If it's the CD drive, then it would make the most HDD like clicking a cd drive ever made The Linux USB is a good idea. I ahve one lying aroung but that one does not show up in the startup manager. Might have to do a new one tomorrow, However, the son of the owner said that she should sent him the macbook, and he'll check wether he can fix it (he has several macs) or if he'll buy a new one for her. So, I'll try the linux first thing in the morning and if that does not fix it, I no longer have to. So... well. I'll see in the morning (my time is GMT+1, germany. so it's 1 in the morning now... )

Another update. I've read while googleing around that safemode also starts by holding the shift key. In that case the loading bar moves to around 33% (but pixel by pixel) after which the screen turns white and nothing, again. Also, call me crazy but it sounds like there's a HDD in there (I sometimes here it's head clicking... o.o) There's an Samsung SSD in there and holding the option key on boot shows up 1 drive.

Update: Safe mode did nothing, apple logo showed, loading bar stopped at roughly 25% and nothing. Verbose showed the text and stoped at this: (Sorry for the crappy screen shot )

I have, it did nothing but I have not tried the internet recovery, since I was hoping to rescue the data. I figured it erases and re-installs the OS, similar to windows? I pop in the original drive (which was already replaced by her son by an SSD but working) and I'lll try save mode. I'll post an update

Currently I'm using an SSD I had lying around from another system. I assumed the installed one was faulty. CMD+V doesn't do anything, just that after some time the foler with ? flashes (so, no OS if i recall) When I got the macbook, I was told that there was a really loud noise comming from it and the user was unable to switch it off. Thus, maybe a different problem alltogether might actually be the case. It not booting up correctly kinda agrees with that. I can easily switch back to the previous SSD but if possible the Data on that should be saved since there is most likely only some backed up in iCloud. It's an older lady. I did get her AppleID however, so maybe that can help`?

I did a dumb here. Sorry.

Hey FoxPro, that would be amazing. As described the internet recovery start up and the loading bar fills, once it is full the screen goes white and stops. (I saw a guide with screenshots in which there then was a language selection) Everymac results in this model: MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.2 15" Early 2011 2.2 GHz Core i7 (I7-2720QM) Intro. February 24, 2011 Disc. October 24, 2011 Order MC723LL/A Model A1286 (EMC 2353-1*) Family Early 2011 15" ID MacBookPro8,2 RAM 4 GB VRAM 1 GB* Storage 750 GB HDD Optical 8X DL "SuperDrive" Complete MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.2 15" Early 2011 Specs However, the HDD was already replaced by an SSD, which now seems to be broken (an HDD tool says "Attention" in some SMART areas and a few errors in a test. I fixed an iMac once with Internet Recovery, if that would work...

Ah okay, apparently this thing is just above too old to get internet recovery... Sad times. Is there any way to download the OS without signing in to itunes?

So someone I know asked me to fix their computer, a macbook pro Model Nr A1286. Sadly, I know little more. So I googled and it came up with a most likely faulty hdd (always got stuck at 10% loading bar). So I threw in a used SSD I had lying around to try a new installation via internet recovery, but that also fails. The globe spins, something loads, and before the laguage selection comes up, white screen and the MBP gets hot (fans spin up after a minute or two) Before I stumble around I decided to ask. Any help or ideas?

Sorry for the late reply, christmas and stuff It's for business calls, mostly for contract solving. He knows (he told me he does, I don't care further) that he informed himself and needs these abilities to record agreements with his clients. As for as much as I know about the legal stuff, he confirms that it is legal in the call, hits record, REPEATS everything about him recording (this is key) and then the client has to agree, on tape, to be recorded. And with that it turns legal or something. I was just asked to find such a device And for tape recorder, that is pretty much what I am looking for, except with sd card to transfer it on a pc