RoryLogue

Another day, another updates! All I can say is that it's nearly there Without further ado    So I have the last order from the US came in, contain some of the last adapters and plugs I need Also bought a couple of fans just in case ...     I have taken all the tubes off and clean them to remove the tube bits from sawing and also polished it to remove some scratches during the bending with car wax The compression fitting can easily scratch the tubes     And I've finished bending the tube from South Bridge to GPU     Another view       And the fan hub has also arrived , I can now control all the fans there will be more sleeved cables coming tomorrow especially for the LED (I will be using NZXT LED I have laying around) and for the fan controller cables     Lastly, I've played around with the cables management It's not perfect and I'll mess around with it more later  
 
Next stop would be the long awaited leak test, it's pretty nerve wrecking since I've no experience with hard tubing We'll see how it goes finger crossed

I finally Finished my project!
The sleeving was harder to get straight then what i thought! since my Sataports are filled up there are almost no room for a clean run
But i'll let the images speak for themself!
Big Thanks to Corsair, Sleeva.se and Aquatuning for their support in this Project! you made it Awesome!










Thanks again! Now it's time to start planning for my next project which i hope will be finished by Dreamhack Summer 2014! it will be a VERY special one, so stay tuned!

Firstly, cleaning up the old blocks and radiators is HELL if you use colored coolant I've spent most of the weeks when I could work on the project for cleaning and radiator painting   This is what I get when I opened up all the used blocks       I have to soak the acrylic and fittings in detergent water, the fittings look 90% new but the acrylic cover for the blocks has not much luck though its still acceptable   and this is the result of applying CLU paste right to the block with the EK naked mount thing for delided IVY       and some corrosion appeared after some water wash, its my fault I didn't rinse it with DI water straight away but with copper polish, I got most of the shine back but not the CLU part     Anyway for the log progress, I am really not satisfied with the result of the paint on the radiators seems like I bought the wrong spray and ended up with a textured, easy to get scratch, non even color even after priming and 3 layers of paint (with light sanding in between), the can has also been shaken for 15 minutes before use and soak in warm water so I've bought another paint brand and just finished sanding it up before I hit them with more paint tomorrow     I will also repaint the pump mount bracket since it came in steel color     Bought a whole box of DI water for rinsing and the loop     Mixed it with vinegar to wash the radiator     This whole radiator cleaning process took me around 3 days of continues rinsing and shaking (5-8 times a day) for the water to run out clear even let DI water to sit in the radiator for each of the 3 nights and it still run colored on the 3rd day It will be DI water for life from now on   Put all the stock coolers on and this will be my setup until I get this project done   Love the beefy stock coolers though I will be selling one of the card since I dont need that much power in this other setup     And this came in yesterday         I've been test fitting everything especially the cables today, want everything to be perfect        The measuring and layout of cables took a while to be figured, its all for perfection hope its worth it   I will be sending my cables to a good friend of mine who do sleeving for life, I am terrible with sleeving and I dont want to ruin the build so pardon me     That's all for now folks  

just tried shadowplay, the performance hit is minimal, i'd just love to record my own voice in-sync than using another program at once.
 
thanks for replying slick, I AM HONOURED

Either the highest setting or lightboost like @bradscoolio said. I have the Asus 144hz monitor and the 120hz lightboost is so much better then just 144hz.

120hz with the light boost mod will give you the best performance: http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/lightboost/
 
I use this mod on this monitor for my main system it's the shit!

Yes I have. The sticks of RAM were causing the issues. I've got new sticks now and it's working fine. If you can't figure it out try a memtest and run it for at least an hour or two. If one error comes up you have to send your RAM off to RMA. Also test the sticks individually. I found that one stick was completely fine while the other one was pretty much giving our hundreds of errors.

@tmcclelland455
@TestedMATTIA
@sof006
 
Ty! It worked...but i'm still cautious. 60-65 degrees http://puu.sh/59FS5.png @ 50-60% load. 1000 rpm for my cpu cooler fan, should I make it higher?

@LinusTech @Slick This should be build of the week

http://youtu.be/4-ZU3ty63rg?t=38s
 
Thank you SLICK, i've been waiting for this for the longest time EVAR and now it's finally here, it's finally coming back, i almost had tears in my eyes so that says it all, we can finally get some insight on individual games like LTT has done before.
 
Now i can finally watch gaming benchmark that i seriously care about.
 
Keep it up LTT team, i'm sure that many others are happy with this approach making its way back into the channel.

Yes England does not have any sort of "local" computer shops like the US does  :angry:

None of my friends are PC gamers, all console gamers (i just recently moved to PC). I'm in england but there's literally zero stores who would do this.

And straight from AMD's VP of Global Channel Sales the 290x is not delayed: https://twitter.com/amd_roy/status/389492380853735424

18 hours straight of DayZ...

Doesn't matter. The differences will be tiny. I would use pull on the right side of the rad to hide the fans.

2) To the watercooling, no.
4) It fits, so if you manage to fit the HDD cage in it's fine.
5) It wouldn't look similar to mayhems coolants but it wouldn't look bad.
5a) Use clear EK or XSPC coolant.
6) That's great.

1) yes
2) there wont be any performance difference, the only difference are the features, like number of sata/usb ports, pcie lanes, etc.
3)no
4)should work out fine
5)green tubing with clear liquid (easier to handle and better looks)
6) you go pretty basic with wc parts, so no
7)do a test bootup to make sure all parts are working correctly
8)leave graphics card out and cover the psu with paper towl
9) screw drivers, a funnel, patience

1) Yes all those parts are compatible and would work together.
2) With Z87 the price of motherboards make little difference in the over clocking capability, if you want more features then you should go for a higher priced board though. This is more of a question for the NB&P section of the forum though, you would get a much more detailed response.
3) Fan grills are useful with fans outside the case to stop small things falling into the fans and smashing the blades. They are mostly used when fans are mounted outside the case but can also be used for aesthetics or if you have exposed fans at the bottom of your case where something could drop into them. They can also protecty radiator fins from being dented if something falls on them.
4) Not really a question?
5) Dyes can stain your components and many people will tell you that they can clog your blocks but thats rare and it's usually not the dye thaty causes the issue. At any rate using a clear coolant with coloured tubing is usually the easier option.
6) You are in fact spending too little. Most notably on the pump where you should be looking at a Laing DDC or D5 pump.
7) You should test if all you components are DOA or not before setting up your loop, it will save you a lot of time if they turn out to be DOA.
8) Don't bother putting the GPU in; keep it safe. You can also leave power wiring until you set-up your loop.
9) A funnel is always helpful. A scalpel is much better for cutting than scissors.
 
P.S.: You can buy a 240 fan grill instead of two 120 fan grills.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-111-PM&groupid=962&catid=1530&subcat=1775 - will choose this then

welcome to LinusTechTips forum.
 
1a. since this may be your first build or first water cooling build, keep it simple.
use colored tubing first till you have an understanding on what functionality and
what the build wants/needs for aesthetics.
2a. so far, yeah it might be all good, dunno with the case not available yet. compared
to the R1 release pretty much.
3a.
 
4a. well if you gotta have the radiator up front, that could make an issue for you.
some relocate the HDDs to the 5.25 bays, but you are using that for the bayres, so either
custom faux panel/bracket or relocate the HDD cage like the XL version (won't know till
the retail release of case)
5a. the bayres goes in the 5.25" bays. pretty simple:
pump/res>rad>CPU>pump/res
 
read these pinned subjects:
Water Cooling 101 - A good place for newbies to start
Water cooling FAQ - Some Basic Q&A
 
airdeano

That is Intel Speedstep. It allows your CPU to lower it's clock speeds when the CPU is not under a heavy load, this leads to a more energy saving oriented PC along with the ability to generate less heat.
 
Sam,
Intel Response Squad member
http://bit.ly/RallySquad

That's an energy saving feature. You should see the clock change when under load. So, if you really wanted to.. Run a game or some other application in the background while validating.
 
 
Btw, you don't have to validate it. You'll be able to see the clock change from stand alone cpu-z.

That's just Intel SpeedStep doing its job, it'll ramp the multiplier up when needed.

There are 3 system fan headers on the motherboard for your 2 case fans. You can control them through your bios. There shouldn't be any problems.

That's fine. Extra headroom is always good as long as it doesn't break the bank.