Mooru

Thanks for the replies. I'm good with the amount of rad I have. I'll have a look at the dyes. The last thing I want is for everything to get clogged up. @Whaler_99: The fan in the top and front are 2 Aerocool Silent Master, got those cheap from a friend and they are more for aesthetics than anything else really. They've been always running at low rpm so I cant hear them. Not sure how they hold up in comparison to the Bitfenix ones.

Hello everyone, Long time reader, not so much of a regular poster. First of all I'm not sure if this belongs here or in the planning-section of the forums so if this is the wrong place, I do apologize . I'm currently an exchange student from Belgium studying in Finland. But when I get back home I want to change my main rig a little and add a custom loop. Let's get down to business. This is my current build: Case: Corsair Obsidian 650D CPU: i7 3770k @ 4,5 GHz 1,26V Cooler: Corsair H60 Push/Pull GPU: Asus GTX 660 ti RAM: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz MOBO: Asus Z77 Sabertooth PSU: be quiet! Dark Power Pro 750 Watt SSD: Vertex 3 250 GB HDD: 1x Western Digital Velociraptor 150 GB 2x Western Digital Green 640 GB 1x Western Digital Green 2 TB Optical drive: Bluray reader / CD/DVD writer Monitor: Dell U2412 24" 60 Hz Monitor Mouse: Logitech G5 Keyboard: Logitech G11 And a picture (yeah poor quality, my phone doesn't like low light environments): I want to actually remove the H60 (never really liked it and had to fix the rattle sound from the pump because it got a voltage slightly to high by soldering a diode in between the cable) and replace it by a full custom loop. Here is the link to a google doc with all the components for those willing to look at it (any suggestions are welcome) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoTJnGH31MU-dGhnQlk0ZHR2c3JBN2w4eTdsWkZBUXc&usp=sharing"]https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Xc&usp=sharing[/url="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoTJnGH31MU-dGhnQlk0ZHR2c3JBN2w4eTdsWkZBUXc&usp=sharing I have 2 questions about this. My first question is: I would like the colour of the tubing to be like in this example : I think it would fit the colour scheme of my build really nicely. Now I'm not sure how to achieve this. I've found some EK coolant that looks blood red but I'm not sure at all if that's what has been used here. (I know distilled water is actually the safest way to go, so if there would be tubing with a very similar colour to that, that would be great too.) Now for my second question. I'm not actually sure how much radiator I need to use. I'm gonna throw a second GTX 660 ti in there. So the loop will cool 1 3770k @ 4.5 GHz and 2 GTX 660 ti. I'm planning a dual 120mm radiator in there and a 200mm radiator. I read as a rule of thumb that you should take 1 more 120 radiator than the amount of components in the loop. So for my loop that would be 4x 120mm rad as I have 3 components to cool. But honestly I'm not sure how correct this rule of thumb is. So I'm looking for any kind of confirmation. The surface area for a 4x 120mm rad is 567 square cm. For the 2x 120mm rad and 200mm rad this is 688 square cm. So I'm far above what that rule suggest, but I would like some input. Any other input would be greatly appreciated as I'm new to watercooling. Thanks in advance

Awesome give away :) Thanks Linus, Slick, everyone else there on the team, gigabyte and intel Good luck who ever wins

Well we still need to wait for the H110i which promises to be better. Also it will be very interesting to see the performance of the AIO solutions with noctua fans as promised at the end of the vid. Linus did all of this with Noctua fans on the H100i and X60. No H110 yet. Pause on 5:51 and you can clearly read the results. From what I can see the X60 performs only 1 °C better than the H100i. Linus his testing methodology is pretty solid. The only thing I do question about it, is the fact that the 140mm fans and 120mm fans at the same rpm probably don't create the same airflow. But still, I did expect more from the X60. I thought Linus didn't get a perfect mount on the block but he mentioned he reseated it 3 times. So I doubt it. Ah well. But as you said, I have high hopes for the H110i :)

Big dissapointment those are. I don't understand why corsair is bringing out the H110. It performs worse on this graph than a H100i on max. And the H110 is 10 bucks more expensive. What's up with that. It's just a radiator and pump. I personally think corsair link adds great value to the product. Maybe it's just to keep up with all the 280 rads popping up everywhere. The X60 is a bit better but basically it is the same thing. And I personally think the reason it performs better is the fans. (TTL said the NXZT ones were massivly loud). Good fans add to the value aswell so don't completely understand Corsair. I can understand buying a H100i (I have an H60, wish I got a H100 instead) but I really don't see a benefit of getting either of the new 280 rads. It's a missed opportunity I think.

I used to have GTX 260 in SLI and could run BF3 medium settings in 1080p just fine. It could be done on high settings (not ultra) but then some dips would be too low in fps to make it playable. So I don't think he's running out of memory (2 cards in SLI keep the memory of 1 card). I might be wrong though. Imho I think the card is starting to die. But ofc that's just a wild guess.

I used to do that when I had them in SLI. I live on and old farm and the electric wiring actually had it's best time. In winter we do actually get a powercut now and again when all the heating is turned on. So I didn't plug anything in except for my pc and turned the heating completely down. To keep warm I turned my rig around and put my feet against the back exhaust of the 260's. Bad for airflow but atleast my feet were warm :p During summer it was unbearable to play nearly any game whatsoever without having to turn the airconditioning up and dying from dehydration :p

On a side note, I forgot how hot and loud the GTX 260 was. Good old days :)

It's what I'm doing currently with my GTX 260. It is folding. But I'm not running it on my cpu or GTX 660 ti. I just played Far Cry 3 on max settings and 2x AA on about 40 fps. That's the same as before I started folding. The only thing that still bugs me out is that it doesn't show me my PPD for the GTX 260. I don't know how much it is doing and if it would be doing something stupid like 1000 PPD I'd rather get it out and not let it consume 150+ Watts. But untill I find out how much it exactly does, I'll happily let it fold for a while. Cheers for the help Whaler. I tried reinstalling it in manual mode but no luck. And I've tried more combinations with cuda-index and opencl-index to get it too work but no luck. Regardless, thanks for the tip :)

Thanks man, I've thrown the GTX 260 in. But now my GTX 660 ti refuses to fold and I can't seem to get the settings for it right. The GTX 260 did start to fold after changing the opencl-index and cuda-index to 1.But under ppd I'm getting the message 'unknown'. Same thing with credits. So yeah it's folding but I have no idea how productive it's actually being.

I'm an avid reader of the forum but not a regular poster and I thought I'd contribute to the community (and science :p) by starting to fold on my main rig a little bit. As I'm in exams it's currently idling most of the time while I google stuff :p so it might aswell do something usefull. Currently It's a 3770k @ 4,23 GHz and a GTX 660 ti and it's earning me about 60k PPD. Here's my question though. I used to have a rig with GTX 260 in SLI. One I gave to my girlfriend but the other is just sitting here in my desk. Collecting dust. Is it worth putting the GTX 260 in and let it fold on it's own without the GTX 660 ti and the 3770k? The idea is to let the card fold while I keep doing other stuff without any performance loss when my exams are done. I have no idea how much PPD the old card will get. It's an old card but I thought every bit could help :) Thanks in advance, Mooru

On my first build, the motorboard I bought had a sticker that covered all the back-IO ports. Me, very happy with all my new shiny components starts fitting everything in, IO-shield, cpu, RAM, GPU, did all the cables, mounted the H60. And then I try to plug in my keyboard and mouse in the back IO for a first boot. The freaking sticker was still on it and I didn't manage to get it from behind the IO-plate. Within 5 minutes of building my first pc I already had to break it down again :p

Thanks for the feedback :) I'll have a look.

I thought about the AMD ones. Wasn't really sure on what to get. It would only really change the motherboard and cpu. Considering the the AMD APU's graphics performance I will do that. The budget is 300-350 euro. So make that like 400 dollar tops. It's not gonna be a HTPC. It'll be used 99% of the time for simply browsing the web. So basicly it has to be cheap, but I want it it to be decent buildquality, so when I open the case I don't break something instantly :p Thanks for the reply

Hello everyone, I'm looking to build a small pc. The only thing it needs to be capable is web browsing and simple programs like Office. The goal of the build is cheap but efficient. This is what I've come up with so for. CPU: i3-2220 3.3 GHz MOBO: Asus P8H61-M LX3 R2.0 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard RAM: Corsair 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory HDD: Western Digital Green 500 GB PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 300 W Any thougts on this build are welcome. 1 Stick of RAM so if needs be it can be upgraded. It's a H61 chip but already supports Ivy bridge without updating the BIOS so that's good. Been debating a small SSD instead of the HDD to make it snappy. Just not sure if it's worth it in this build. What my real problem is, is which case to get. It's gonna be tucked away in a corner somewhere so it doesn't have to be very pretty. I'm just looking for decent buildquality at a decent price. I'm considering 40-50 dollars for the case. All suggestions are welcome :) Thanks in advance! Mooru