fael097

So I have decided to return my EVGA CLC AIO and stick to my old noctua for now. AIOs are just too loud for me and that thing was really annoying, not worth the trouble. However I'm thinking of upgrading my case fans. Currently I have 3 of these https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Air-AF140-Quiet-Single/dp/B007RESGGC and a 120mm corsair on the back that I don't really know the model since it was the stock cooler that came with a carbide case. I might have to upgrade my old noctua later though, if it doesn't manage to keep my Ryzen under 90°C, but I'm not sure what other air cooler can do it while being silent.

which fans would you recommend? I have a couple from corsair

Hi, I purchased an ASUS ROG Crosshair Hero VII (Wi-Fi) x470 motherboard for my old Ryzen 7 1800x a couple years ago because my old motherboard died, it was an open box clearance item from micro center, and it took me almost a year to realize the onboard audio didn't work since I always used bluetooth speakers. But now I've got a pair of speakers for my turntable and wanted to connect my computer, then realized it has no onboard audio. I contacted ASUS tech support and they told me I should open a RMA and send it back to them, but I'm not from the United States even though that's where I bought it, and they don't ship it back to my country after repairing. It's probably not a simple issue since my computer simply doesn't recognize anything on the device manager, no realtek audio thing shows up, it's really odd. Is there anything I could possibly do myself to fix it? Or maybe some local repair shop would be able to fix it?

meaning CL 16 is better than 17 or 18?

Hi, I recently upgraded my old Ryzen 7 1800x for a Ryzen 9 5900x, but I think my 2400hz is outdated and possibly bottlenecking my system. I've been experiencing crippling stutters in VR and wasn't able to pin point the cause, so I'm thinking of upgrading my ram. I've been reading inconsistent information on what ram is better for the Ryzen 9 5900x. Some say it won't make any difference if I get ram faster than 3200mhz, some say it's faster with 3600mhz, and I also read somewhere that thermaltake's 4000mhz ram was the "sweet spot" which doesn't make much sense to me. I have 2x16gb right now, and I'm thinking of upgrading to another 2x16gb, but I might need 64 gb total in the near future. Suggestions on what ram I should get? my specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900x Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 CPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair Hero VII (Wi-Fi) x470 (Latest BIOS) PSU: EVGA Supernova 650 P2 (80 Plus Platinum) SSD1: 1TB XPG SX8200 Pro NVMe (System drive) SSD2: 480GB Kingston A1000 NVMe (Secondary drive) HDD1: 1TB Western Digital Green Caviar HDD2: 1TB Western Digital Green Caviar RAM: Crucial Ballistix 32GB DDR4-2400 (2x16GB) Case: NZXT S340 OS: Windows 10 64bit Monitor: Dell P2418D

Hi, I'm having temperature spikes all the time with my ryzen 9 5900x, going from the sub 40Cs to 70, 75C in a second or two, and then back to idle temps. That happens even if I open a couple youtube videos, or close their tabs. Is this normal? This is specially annoying when you have an AIO cooler that is hard coded to ramp up their fans to 100% after reaching 60C, which happens all the time with those temp spikes. My setup: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900x Cooler: EVGA CLC 280mm AIO CPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair Hero VII (Wi-Fi) x470 (Latest BIOS) PSU: EVGA Supernova 650 P2 (80 Plus Platinum) SSD1: 1TB XPG SX8200 Pro NVMe (System drive) SSD2: 480GB Kingston A1000 NVMe (Secondary drive) HDD1: 1TB Western Digital Green Caviar HDD2: 1TB Western Digital Green Caviar Crucial 32GB DDR4-2400 (2x16GB) Case: NZXT S340 OS: Windows 10 64bit Here's a graph: first spike is when I was opening 3ds max, second spike opening a max file, third spike opening a couple youtube vids, fourth spike closing those vids.

I connected my cooler's fans to the motherboard and configured the curves so now they behave as I want, but at 100% they sound a bit more quiet than when they were controlled by EVGA flow. Are you sure they ramp up to 2400RPM when hooked to the motherboard?

Hi, I recently upgraded my old Ryzen 7 1800x for a Ryzen 9 5900x. I had a Noctua NH-D14 cooling my 1800x and never had any issues, even managed to do some mild overclocking, but after the upgrade my 5900x reaches 90ºC after only 7 minutes of Aida64's stress test. My case is an NZXT S340, with 2x 140mm intake fans from corsair on the front, one of those on top as exhaust, and a 120mm corsair as exhaust on the back, and I keep the room's AC on at 23°C all the time. my GPU is an RTX 3080 from EVGA, which doesn't have a blower style cooler. I decided to give a chance to AIO coolers, so I bought an EVGA CLC 280mm, which is better than what I was getting from my Noctua, it keeps my CPU temps stable at 79 - 80°C during the same test, as long as I keep running the cooler pump and fans at 100%. The problem is that EVGA's flow control software is crap. I can sort of control the fans curve, but the 100% fan speed is fixed at 60°C, which the R9 spikes at all the time, and this cooler's fans are the loudest thing ever at 100% which translates to 2400RPM if I'm not mistaken. So the fans keep ramping up and down all the time, even when I'm drawing squares on the desktop's wallpaper with the selection tool, or opening folders on windows explorer, not to mention heavy CPU usage tasks. I wouldn't mind the fans ramping up when I'm rendering something, but the constant spikes bother me a lot. I can set the AIO to control the fans RPM based on the coolant temperature instead of the CPU temperature, so it won't ramp up all the time, but after ramping up it will take a while to ramp down since the coolant itself takes a while to warm up and cool down, which bothers me just as much. Also, the software doesn't save the configurations to the firmware, even though EVGA says it does. As soon as I close the software, it switches back to the default coolant temperature controlled fan curve (same to LED colors and other settings), so I have to keep the software open to barely control the curve, which also bothers me. Is there something I can do, or should I just return it and get a Corsair H115i instead? Or should I even stick to air coolers? Suggestions?

ok so I did the test, took way longer than I expected, but it passed, test results added to the link on the OP

Hey, yeah I'm not relying on stress tests, just using them to see if I can pin point the issue, but my problem is mostly when using 3ds max, although it happens mostly randomly. However I can replicate the BSOD easily on Substance Painter, I just have to set it to bake textures in 8k with 8x anti aliasing. After baking for a while, computer will crash guaranteed. Will test my ram with this tool and report back, thanks

Hi, I recently bought a Ryzen 9 5900x and an RTX 3080, and I've been experiencing thermal issues, and even BSODs some times. I have a Noctua NH-D14 from 2016 which always allowed me to overclock my old R7 1800x without any problems, never reaching 90°C. But after I got the 5900x I never even tried overclocking it, since during simple stress tests such as AIDA64's, it reaches 90°C after a couple minutes. I've also been experiencing BSODs after working on 3ds Max for a few hours, even though it didn't happen during any particularly CPU intensive task. Even though stress testing rises temps pretty quickly, they never caused a BSOD, so I'm not even sure if it's CPU related. My system: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900x (Default clock) Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 CPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra (Latest drivers) Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair Hero VII (Wi-Fi) x470 (Latest BIOS) PSU: EVGA Supernova 650 P2 (650w 80 Plus Platinum) SSD1: 1TB XPG SX8200 Pro NVMe (System drive) SSD2: 480GB Kingston A1000 NVMe (Secondary drive) HDD1: 1TB Western Digital Green Caviar (Primary storage HDD2: 1TB Western Digital Green Caviar (Secondary storage) Crucial 32GB DDR4-2400 (2x16GB) Case: NZXT S340 (2x140mm in, 1x140mm out, 1x120mm out) OS: Windows 10 64bit Here are my dump files and performance report: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mHWmL3pttIu7xN1mlME54E636wd7ftOj?usp=sharing Any ideas?

I have one of these adapters that turns 6 into 8, although one of them is a blank. I was kinda hoping someone would say this is fine and it won't kill my gpu, cause I'm not feeling that adventurous, specially after spending some money on components already, but if it's not safe then I guess I'll just wait until I can get a cable

Problem is my cable is a 6+2 connector and another 6pin only, without the +2. And I don't have another 8 pin cable. So I guess I'll have to buy one? Is there anything I could do just to these this mobo? Just wanted to see if it posts but the r7 has no integrated video, so I needed to connect the gpu somehow, and stores are closed right now, I'd have to wait until tomorrow to get another cable. Can I just connect my gpu to my other psu?

Thanks! I don't have an extra gpu cable though, my psu has 2x 8 pin GPU slots but it came with only one cable. It was an open box so maybe that's the problem. I have some moles adapters from other systems on my scrapbox though, could it work?

Hey, yes, my gpu cable is 6+2 with another 6 pin connector coming out of it. I'm also not sure which of the 8 pin ports on my gpu I should connect which. Let me attach a picture

Hey, I bought a rog crosshair vii hero wifi mobo for my good old ryzen 7 1800x, and also an evga 650 p2 psu. Turns out my mobo has an 8 pin and a 4 pin connector for the CPU, besides the standard 24pin, but my psu only has an 8 pin cpu connector and an adapter that makes these 8 pins into 8+8 Pins. It looks just like an Y splitter really. So my question is: should I just connect the 8 pins or should I use the splitter? And since I'm here, my my gpu is a msi gtx 980ti which has 2x 8 pin connectors but my psu connector is 8+6 pins. Will it work? I never had this problem, always had low end motherboards that didn't have that much connectors, and an old Corsair 750w psu which had 2x 8pin connectors for the gpu.

mostly file sharing and media streaming from android devices. oh, and playing video files from it on windows devices without copying them over, you know? I don't know if that counts as media streaming, but it's really important that this works, although I think it relies on bandwidth more than nas hardware, right?

oh that's great. I was wondering cuz I read a sketchy review saying you couldn't do something like that. but let me go ahead and ask, qnap TS-231P-US or synology DS218j ? both are around the same price, same capacity but qnap's hardware seems better

hey, can I make a sylology or a qnap NAS a network drive, so I can drag and drop files into it, or even download files from my computer straight into it?

because the router is far way so the whole house has wi-fi signal. there is only one cable going from the modem to the router, and it's not an option drilling holes on the walls to get another cable to the router

hey, I have a modem from my ISP, and my PC is connected via cable to it. modem's ip is 192.168.25.1 I also have a tp-link wireless router connected to the modem, it's ip is 192.168.1.1 I can access the modem's interface from my pc via it's ip, but not the router's. I can only access the router's interface from a device connected to the wi-fi network, or if I attach a cable directly into the router. technically they are in the same network, so how do I access it from my pc?

like 1tb tops. I have 400gb of video sitting on an hdd in my computer, so I just need to be able to access it from the network and stream, and eventually put another video in there. I was kinda hoping something closer to 100 ish. there's a basic synology nas for 99, think this is bad? https://www.amazon.com/Synology-DS119j-Bay-DiskStation-Diskless/dp/B07HK5T3KM

hi, I need recommendations for a NAS. I don't care about upgradeability, redundancy, massive storage, I just want to watch videos from any device (android, ios, smart TVs, and pcs) without having to copy the files over from a device No need to have included storage too, best if I can just throw an old hdd in and be done with it. Just need it to be reliable, fast, compatible and cheap.Suggestions ?

Well i suppose it can have a plastic finish and a crappy screen, as long as it isn't the worst available. And perhaps I oversimplified it's usage, it's not just in case my PC fails, It's for daily use as I want a portable but fully functional computer for a while now, it's convenient to use while on bed and taking with you as well. That's why it must be a laptop, but it will also serve as a backup in case shit happens I saw this one from Dell https://www.newegg.com/p/1TS-000A-03NH3?Item=9SIADRF8BA1756 And it looks decent, about as expensive as I'd like to go, so I thought if there's a Dell laptop for this price, there must be something marginally better for a little cheaper from some other brand, but I just can't browse for laptops. I just checked Asus website now and it's the same as msi, no pricing, you must choose between their series that don't mean anything to me.

Hey, I'm looking for a general purpose laptop to buy. It doesn't need to be the fastest or anything, but it must be capable of running stuff. Let me elaborate I work with 3d modeling/rendering and I already have a very capable desktop PC, which also can run games in 4k which I play occasionally, but it recently broke, and I'm relying on a surface go and my phone to do my daily activities. Obviously I can't do my work nor play games on them, so I want to buy a laptop so I won't have to interrupt my work when this kind of things happen. Really it doesn't need to be nearly as good as my PC, if I could just open some 3d models and play games at 1080p low/med settings, that would be awesome. The thing is that I had a laptop and it also died a few months ago, that's some bad luck right there, but it was kinda sub par. It had an Nvidia 920m or something that wouldn't run any games or even be able to open 3d models without glitching. So I don't know, maybe a gtx1050 would do the job? I wanted to spend as little as possible, except I wanted a good solid build. I've used these Acer laptops which have some kinda good specs except they are terribly made. The touch pad response is slow and weird, they are all plastic, the screen is terrible. I've been searching for a while nowbut browsing for laptops is awful. Dell website is a mess, you can't really compare all they have and sort by price. MSI website is worse, their model numbers and naming is completely arbitrary, you don't know what to choose and if you just go for anything, sometimes they don't even have that in stock. So that's why I need help, perhaps someone knows what's good out there? What do you suggest?