anothertom

chrome remote desktop is my go to, better than most paid options imo. Chrome remote destop to connect to a computer within a network, then tightVNC to get to other computers on the same network.

Ok, so yes, using it in usb-midi mode should be the solution.

If you're doing analogue out into the line in, then back out the headphone port then there will be some delay. Depending on what you're trying to do you will be better off doing different things. What are you actually trying to do?

Ok, so from what i'm seeing in the manual, you can either use the physical midi port or it will operate as a USB-midi device. So if you want to use it to control an midi instrument in a DAW then you can just connect it over USB to your computer and it will appear as a midi device. You will need a usb cable with a type B connector for the keyboard and either type A (a traditional USB port) or type C if that's what your computer has.

Ok, slow down. What keyboard have you got? And what are you trying to do?

If you just need midi in/out then a midi interface is all you need, as you already have the UM2. The basic inline cable interfaces work well, or there's lots of used interfaces on ebay, you don't need anything special.

Think of it like this: If i put a knife against your chest, and repeatedly pushed it very gently, you're going to know about it. If i do the same with a block of soft foam, then you wouldn't feel a thing. For isolating something you want foam hard enough that can hold the weight of the item without fully compressing, but not so hard that it transmits the vibrations.

Spikes are not what you want to use if you are trying to remove vibrations. Spikes couple, due to the very small contact area and very solid contact. Foam, where there is a cushioning interface spread over a larger area, is what you want to remove vibrations.

From my point of view, the only thing that's making this complicated is the involvement of linux as the source. I don't use linux and don't really have a device I can reasonably have as a test environment, so i don't really know if what I'm finding is of any use, otherwise I'd have tried some of the tools to see if they work.

From some googling it might be technically possible, but you'd probably go through a few software layers before hitting the network. @RixzZ have a look at this post using pulseaudio, slightly out of date, but should get you there.

Look at Icecast or Soundit both free options with varying levels of configuration/functionality. I use soundit, and for the most part works perfectly well, but it does crash occasionally, but only on the receiving device. You could also try pulseaudio. A one off purchase of Dante via and DVS would be cheaper even in the short term than either of the other options suggested, but wouldn't work over wifi so would need to be on a hard wired network. The other suggestions (source connect and Listento) are subscriptions, not particularly cheap, and are aimed at specific uses very different to what you're trying to do. Icecast i know has linux builds, not sure about soundit (their website has been down for a few days), Pulse only offers linux support. I don't think either source connect or listento have linux support and dante doesn't have linux versions.

Honestly, that would be a very annoying setup to manage. Not to mention that the number of times you'd be re-amping the signal is stupid, spending that amount on a DAC just to send it through a cheap/dodgy mixer is a waste. You would be far better served by streaming audio to a single device and then playing out through the modi/loki/magni stack. Have a look into soundit or icecast for a free option, if you want to shell out some cash then dante via and dante virtual soundcard would be the professional, more reliable and higher quality option. I would also suggest not getting a physical EQ, you won't touch it anywhere near as much as you're thinking you will. Start with equaliser APO, create some presets and keep the EQ in the digital realm.

To clarify, the toggle for channel 9/10 is to switch the output of that channel between the stereo output and the monitor output. When you set it to the stereo output it's going to both your speakers and back through the USB input to the computer. So voice chat is getting the mic as well as anything coming out of the computer. What you need to do is separate the input and output sides of your audio setup. So either use a separate device for the output, or more simply change the output the speakers are using to the monitor outputs. You can then route the USB channels through the monitor output so they don't get sent back through the input. So the stereo bus is sent to the computer's input carrying only the mic (and anything you plug into the other channels), and the monitor output is sent to the speakers and your headphones. The switch by the monitor level knob changes whether you hear the stereo bus through the monitor outputs or just the USB channels. Depending if you like to hear yourself you can turn this on or off, but you can't adjust level separately.

page 36, both ring and sleeve ties to ground on the main outputs.

The general hissing sound could be just a high noise floor, this can be caused if your gain staging isn't set up quite right if you're using the DAC in the interface. Alternatively if the CTH has a high noise floor by itself then that would be an issue. No idea what the clicking could be, other than possibly a broken connection or solder joint which sometimes separates then reconnects.

Could you be more specific about the mic you're trying to use. I wouldn't expect any mic to have a TRRS (4 pole) connector, more likely a TRS connector (3 pole). If it's a TRS then yes you can plug it into a mic input on a motherboard. If it's a TRRS then you might need a TRRS splitter, which can then be plugged into the motherboard. If it's a laptop then you might not need the splitter as they often have 4 pole combined mic/headphone sockets, but check against it's specs.

Definitely sounds like EMI. You can try to alleviate the issue by separating audio cables from any others as much as possible, both internal and external. A USb DAC can help prevent this by removing the conversion outside the case but other cables can still have effect.

The outputs on the UR22C are definitely unbalanced, the circuit diagram in the manual shows as much. Although the UR22 and the 4i4 do use balanced outputs, so long as you're using suitable cables. If you're getting a noisy signal when using an interface then it's pretty much got to be an unbalanced connection somewhere.

Nope, shouldn't have any problems switching back and forth so long as it works with both systems. If you set it as the default device in each system, it'll take over from anything else plugged in.

This depends on how you want to use it. If you want to playback from both machines at once then the proper way to do it would be to take a feed fro each machine through a mixer into the speakers. You could use the 2i2 for one machine and a normal 3.5mm cable from the other, alternatively you could get a mixer with a USB connection and use that as the output from the second machine. If you only want to playback from one machine at a time then you could use a simple USB switch between the 2i2 and both computers. If you want to swap the input from the 2i2 between the machines, then a switch would be the way to go. If you need input constantly to a single machine, then going through a mixer would be the way to do that.

The preamps probably aren't much different to those in your UCM1820 and probably worse, I can't think they put anything particularly nice into it given the brand. Mackie aren't exactly a pillar of high quality products. If you were going to use it purely for the preamp stages, using the direct outs (which can be set to pre or post-EQ), it would be cool to mod it into a smaller enclosure if the boards allow it. i.e. remove most of the physical interface and just end with a much smaller block of IO, although the front panel seems to be a single sheet so would need some modifying/fabricating. What you could then do, with the rest of the frame, is gut the internals and turn it into a large midi surface, re-purposing the faders and pots (or replacing with endless encoders).

Not sure what you think that article is saying, just an explanation of the different ways of balancing a signal. And again shows that using two conductors you can send a balanced signal (just in three different ways). And why would you ever connect either terminal of a speaker to ground? That just wouldn't work*. It needs to be a full circuit through the amplifier to be able to actually drive the speaker properly. * technically you could simply use a variable negative voltage to drive it within only half of the driver's excursion, but that's a horrible idea and would end with a hot melty mess rather than a speaker.

You're simply wrong. A balanced signal only requires two conductors, for the sake of argument a normal side and an inverted side (but this equally could be a positive and a non-ground zero). The signal is not referenced to a ground at any point, which is part of why it has the noise-rejection characteristics, but as the magnitude of the difference between the two signals (the normal and inverted). That a ground is usually included within the cable is not for use as part of the signal, but to maintain a constant ground through a signal chain. Hence, a speaker is effectively balanced, though in a different way to the signal from a microphone.

Opinions must have changed massively in the last year or two then. Search for "zeos" with an author tag of @SSL, @spwath or @Dackzy 's comments for a different opinion, three people who i would trust more than most who've appeared and disappeared over the years, and unfortunately have pretty much abandoned ship by the look of it.

Using 4mm2 you can push a lot more power a lot further than the 20m you're planning. The way speaker drivers work, using a positive and a sudo-negative (which specifically isn't a ground, effectively makes it a balanced signal. It's the voltage differential across the terminals that drives the speaker rather than the absolute voltage level when referenced to a ground.