Or Aviram

An update... I cleaned my computer and along the way tried a bunch of things. Replacing CMOS battery did nothing. Replacing thermal paste did nothing. Using less RAM sticks. And my boot attempts were done only with motherboard, CPU, CPU cooler and case or screwdriver (tried both, in all attempts). I also tested my PSU using the self test button and it seems fine. I removed the thermal shield thing on my motherboard, and checked the components, and nothing seems to be bad (although I obviously can't know for sure just from looking). I also took my CPU out and both the socked and the back of it look fine. It's weird that it just suddenly stopped working, and everything seems fine, but when trying to turn on no fan spins, it's like the power pins got screwed. The only option I see now is buying a new motherboard and CPU but it feels so weird since the system should have lasted for longer. I'd love more opinions on this!

About a year ago I posted here about a problem my computer had: TLDR: my computer could rarely turn on. It would usually attempt for a little, and then turn off, then try again, sort of like boot looping (but nothing ever showed up on the monitor). After enough attempts (and a few random things to increase the probability) it would sometimes work, and, after I got it on, it worked with no problems. Since that thread my (pretty bad) solution was to just not turn it off. From time to time I did turn it off, and when turning back on it somehow worked perfectly. I never tried sleep mode, which was the most problematic, though. When restarting it always worked, that was also the case in my old thread. Even when there was a power outage which caused it to unexpectedly shut down, when power came back it could turn on smoothly. Still, it sometimes stayed on for months at a time. Today something changed: suddenly it turned off. Just like I turned it off, nothing suspecious, but I wasn't the one who did it. Now it won't turn back on again. And in an even worse way than from my precious thread: clicking the power button now doesn't do anything. (The incident happened while using mGBA for the first time ever, so it could be related but I don't see any reason for it to be.) I did basic things like disconnecting the power cables and trying again, and also some of the solutions that sometimes worked in my old thread, but nothing worked. To check if maybe the problem is in my case I tired turning it on by jumping the power pins on my motherboard with a screwdriver but it didn't work (no idea if I did it right, though). I doubt the PSU is the problem because the power LED on my motherboard is on whenever the PSU is on. The GPU also lights up when turning on the PSU. It's probably the motherboard or CPU, that's the guess, but I'm open to more ideas. Last thing I'll mention, that could be the thing... An idea I came up with in my old thread is to replace the CMOS battery on the motherboard. I bought a new one but ended up not switching, mostly because I wad afraid of turning off my computer and not getting it on again. It's possible this is all I need to do. Another thing to mention is that I put down cleaning it for the same reason and it had collected quiet a bit of dust...I doubt it's a big deal since some computers go years with no cleaning but maybe it's related. So for now, if no one can help, the plan is to clean it and replace the CMOS battery, and if it doesn't work I'll buy a new motherboard and CPU. Still, I'd love to hear more opinions. Oh and I monitored the temperatures throughout the time my PC was kept on and there was nothing out of the ordinary. My system specs: Asus Sabertooth X99 motherboard i7 5820K CPU (not overclocked, base voltage) GTX 1080 BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler Corsair AX860i PSU Cooler Master Mastercase Pro 5 case

Bump (sorry, I'm getting desperate)

I've had my computer for a few years now, and the past few months it has started giving me some trouble. The booting has become inconsistent. When pressing the power button, it tries to turn on, the fans spin, and then it turns off. It enters a loop of trying again, then stopping. Sometimes it completely stops, and sometimes it seems that it could continue indefinitely had I not turned off the power supply. It's a pretty weird description, so I attached a video. The second (short) attempt in the video was on its own. It often has longer attempts, and sometimes they last until I turn it off manually. From time to time it works, and I've managed to find a pattern, but not solve it. First, initially I had my CPU cooler connected to the CPU fan header, at the top of the motherboard. It usually started spinning precisely on attempts when the computer managed to post. I was scared at the start, as I thought it was a fried fan header (although, in that case, why would it sometimes work?). But then I switched it to different headers. Some didn't work, while one header consistently got it to spin (this is the one it's connected to in the video). Since the computer still didn't post, I think it's not related to the fan. Maybe I should also mention that when connecting case fans to the headers that didn't work, they only work once the computer posts, and not on the failed boots. Sometimes, something simple like turning the PSU off, waiting a few seconds, and trying again, works. The weirdest thing is that it had a tendency to work when the side panel was off, but that's probably a coincidence. I did test the PSU, though, using its "self test" option. It passed the test, so I don't think that's the problem. Another weird thing that worked is "clearing the RTC RAM", by using a jumper on the motherboard. I am not sure what that is, but when looking for solutions, I saw it in the motherboard manual. It worked for most of my attempts pretty quickly. It's only today that it didn't immediately work, and it took a few attempts until I managed to get it on. Lastly, after moving the CPU cooler to another fan header, I noticed another sign when a boot attempt is about to succeed: usually the GPU lights up white as soon as the computer tries to turn on, but on successful boots it becomes purple, which is the customized color I have for it. From looking up, I found a few possible things. When looking at other people getting boot loops, it seems it could be related to the CMOS battery. I think it's related to clearing the RTC RAM, so maybe replacing the battery is the solution. However, before doing that I want to hear a second opinion. From other people having a problem with the boot but the computer working fine, I got the idea it could be one of the parts about to break (possible, since the computer is getting old). Specifically, either the CPU, the PSU or the motherboard. It could be the PSU, despite the self test being fine, since the guy in the answer said it could be related to short-time voltage drops which testers can't detect (it's DRagor's answer from https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/inconsistent-booting-but-once-it-boots-it-runs-fine.3218811/). My main guess is the motherboard, but I don't want to get a whole new computer before checking other options. There are some differences with my situation and other people's situations. None of the error LED's on my motherboard light up, neither on failed nor on successful boots. The only one that sometimes lights up is the CPU LED, but it's only after clearing the RTC RAM, and it's probably because it freaks out my CPU cooler is not connected to the fan header (it turns off after I tell it to not monitor the CPU fan). Some of the other forum questions I found about boot loops also mentioned trouble after the PC is running, but after a successful boot, as long as I don't put my computer to sleep, it can run for a long time with no problem. It's only the initial boot, and exiting from sleep mode, that it has a hard time doing. If I don't turn it off and don't put it to sleep, it can just keep working fine. This also makes it seem weirder for me that it's one of my components about to break, since then I'd expect performance to drop. My system specs: Asus Sabertooth X99 motherboard i7 5820K CPU (not overclocked, base voltage) GTX 1080 BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler Corsair AX860i PSU And in case it somehow matters (since the problem is after pressing the power button, so maybe...?), Cooler Master Mastercase Pro 5 case. VID-20230310-WA0002.mp4

@GuiltySpark_ @An0maly_76 Thank you so much for your help! The thermal paste application in the post was purposefully very small because I thought maybe the problem is that I was putting on too much...from the replies I see that I over exaggerated. I did another application, a thick X shape like stated in the article, and it managed to reduce temperatures to about 62 idle. It's still too high to be useable, but it's a little closer to how it was before this story. I ended up ordering a new cooler, this time an air cooler, although the AiO did serve me well for a really long time. It's good to know it even served me more than it usually does, so my problem wasn't neglect, but just age. Either way, I assume a new cooler will fix this

Hey! I am currently running an X99 system, about 6 years old, with an i7 5820K CPU and a Corsair h100i GTX cooler. My CPU has had high temperatures for a while now - about 50C idle. I assumed it was because of poor maintenence (I haven't cleaned it in about 2 years and it built up a lot of dust). Recently, I finally decided to clean it, and on the way I replaced the thermal paste, as I've been using the stock one that came with the cooler since I got it. After plugging it back in, the temperatures climbed really high, even higher than usual. In the bios, under very low load, it could get all the way to mid 60's C. After entering Windows, Corsair Link shows almost 80C with about 15% load. I tried different amounts of tightness with the waterblock screws, but nothing seemed to work. I decided to try applying thermal paste again, twice, and in both attempts it didn't work. I then decided to give up. When I cleaned the PC, it wasn't a very deep clean, and a lot of dust stayed between the radiator and fans. I decided to do a deeper cleaning by taking off the radiator fans and cleaning the dust between. These are pictures of the radiator after cleaning. It's not perfect because I had to stop in the middle, but it's still not bad enough to cause these problems. There is a more suspicious spot, though, with some hard material between the fins of the radiator. I cleaned it with a toothpick, but that also included some bending of the fins. However, there is no uniform bending in any part of it, so I don't see why such a small difference would matter. This is after cleaning: I also applied thermal paste again. Obviously, still high temps. Right before giving up and posting here, I gave another shot to replacing thermal paste. I looked at the pictures of the previous applications and thought that the amount may have been a little high, so I tried with significantly less. This is the final application: Note that I have pictures of all the other applications, as well as how the CPU and waterblock looked after removing it. I couldn't add it because of the size limit, but I can add it in the comments if it's needed. This last attempt was even worse, with temps climbing even faster. At this point I only have a few ideas for what could be wrong. Maybe the thermal paste quality is bad, although it was recommended everywhere I saw. Problem is that to test it I have to buy new paste. It could be that the cooler is broken, but I don't have another cooler to test it with. It could be that the CPU is dead. Actually, since I ran it for so long with high temps, maybe the parts between its heatsync and the core are broken? Maybe I need to replace the paste there? That would mean checking the warranty status of the CPU. Again, though, no way for me to test this as this is my only CPU. Any help is appreciated, so thanks in advance! If more info/pictures are required, I could provide it. PC Configuration i7 5820K CPU, at stock clock Corsair H100i GTX CPU cooler Asus Sabertooth X99 motherboard Cooler Master Mastercase Pro 5 The fan configuration is two intake in the front, one exhaust in the back, and two exshaust at the top of the case, mounted on the radiator (pushing air into it). Thermal paste is Arctic MX-4 Don't know if it matters, but all cleaning of thermal paste was done with 70% alcohol, paper towels, and cotton sticks (no fibers left as far as I could tell)

Ok, thank you. I increased the bid.

I am now bidding on...something...(I won't say it here, because then it will get more bidders and the price will be higher)...but I am suppose to go on an 11 hours flight in 4 hours, and the bidding will be over when I am in the plane (I am too poor to get Wi-Fi in there. >_<), so that's a problem... What I did is I put the maximum I am able to pay, just like eBay intended you to do (though in this case sniping will work the best, it's just that I won't be able to do it), but I confused between 600 and 700 dollars... I want to increase my value now, but I have a concern about that... Will the increase max bid button only increase my max bid, or it will make another bid, a higher one? Because currently I pay 680$, with a max bid of 699$, but what I want is that what I pay will stay 680$ but my max bid will be 750$ (or something odd at that range, because I heard it's better); my concern is that if I increase the max bid, I will pay 699$ with a max bid of 750. This forum is very active, and I guess many people here use eBay, so they can help with it fast. And for any moderator that is wondering why it's inside of new builds and planning: The thing I am buying is a computer part. The exact thread might help me in other things, but currently the main reason is that part.

Sorry if it's on the wrong forum, I wasn't sure where to put it... I am now on a vacation at the US, and I decided to get my GTX 1080 here (they cost like a 1000$ where I am >_<), but I don't know where to buy it... The two things I MUST buy here are a keyboard and a graphics card. Specifically the GTX 1080 (if the EVGA Classified will come out soon so that, but if not then Asus Strix, Zotac AMP! Extreme, Gigabyte Extreme Gaming and EVGA FTW are fine) and a Corsair K70 Rapidfire (RGB). Does anyone know good shops that can sell those in midtown Manhattan? EDIT: I just want to specify something... I am doing research. Now that I think about it, my original post was just asking for help, and it looks like I don't try to do it myself. So I just want to say that I do, and I ask because it's much faster like that, and I only have like two more days here.

I think that projector is awesome, obviously. Else why would I enter? And I already followed them... Do I have to say hello to enter, or following is enough?

Ok, so I most likely won't get surround (I do still want more answers, though, by people who has experience with surround). But I do still want speakers. I bought the HyperX Cloud Revolver, which I am pretty sure doesn't have surround. I heard surround on headphones is pretty bad. Oh, wait, I just got a new comment Ok, I will get the Z333. Well, I know there is that wireless bluetooth adapter Logitech has, but I am not sure how it works. I just looked at his layout and I don't see any way it would work. Anyway, I think I will get a stereo system.

I hear many great things about surround speaker system (I have one in my living room TV), and it makes me want to get it... There is only one question though: are they worth it for small computer setups? I have a pretty small room, and I am not sure which speakers to get. The two options that I am thinking about getting are the Logitech Z333, if I will choose it isn't worth it, or the Z506, if it is worth it. Currently on Amazon the difference in price are like 10$, which isn't that much, but after all I do also need to get some pipes to hide the cables, and it will take much longer to cable manage them, and maybe that's for nothing. It will be used for some gaming, watching YouTube and some movies (the movies will be maximum one more person with me). I will also do some music production, but that's only a hobby, so I don't really need the best sound quality ever. So is getting a surround system worth it even for such a small room?

So the important thing for you is the click and RGB, and not necessarily blue switches? If you are fine with speed switches, you can get the Corsair K70 Rapidfire. But it's less than your budget, that's a big concern...

Hmm... You are right. But if he can get the RX 480, I think it will be a smart decision to invest the money he saved in a better motherboard.

There still isn't a release date. Wait for it, if it won't come out in a month, live with those 4 SATA ports, if it will, see how good it is and choose.

Yay. It sadly will take a long time... Shipping to Israel is not a fun thing, it takes way too long and the mail in Israel always delays everything way too much. I just hope to get it before the summer vacation.

No, no, I didn't get 80C at stock clock, that would be fu...ricked...up. I got 60-61 C on the CPU and on the individual cores I got to high 50's and some of them sometimes jumped to 60. The 80 was because I saw a person say under it is good for stress tests. The 1.3 volts came from Paul's Hardware and Awesomesauce Network, which both said 1.3 is around the voltage you should have on that CPU.

3,3 GHz at 1.040V, the stock clock (I will only overclock when I get all of the parts). Also note that the 60-61 was on the whole CPU, but the individual cores were at high 50's, and some of them sometimes reached 60.

Put distilled water again? It's an AIO, a closed loop, I can't open it (I mean, I technically can, but I will most likely ruin it, and even if I won't, R.I.P. warranty). I can replace the compound, but I first need to get the alcohol, and better quality compound (the one I have is really old, and I won't trust it for that system). I saw on the internet that under 80C is good for a stress test, is that true? I am pretty new to overclocking, and knowing the right temperature, and every person says something different so I don't know to listen to. >_<

Because he might want to add an optical drive, or one day want to upgrade and add another HDD or SSD (because one TB is not really that much, he will probably upgrade in the close year or 2), and changing a motherboard isn't a fun thing to do when all you want is to add another drive. He does have some place to upgrade, but not much. What is oem? You mean custom editions? Well, we don't know... Probably the 1070, but if you can wait it will be a better idea to wait and get the 480. True, if it isn't good so you have just wasted your time, but if it's good and you bought the 1070, you would regret your decision, which is not a good feeling...

I still think 4 SATA ports aren't enough... No, not this one. This one: Oh, wait, I just looked at the price again... If you don't care about the lack of expansion ability, your list is fine. But I still think this is wrong to cheap out on the motherboard, because this is such a main component... I would still wait to see benchmarks for the 480, because it will give you a lot of free money, and performance might compete with the 170. This is not a good idea to buy a graphics card right now unless it's a high end one such as the 1080.

I am not a big fan of the IO and it only has 4 SATA ports... I wouldn't it. I suggested the Asus Z170-E.

I gave you some previously.

Oh, I haven't seen that... Well, I don't know what to say now. Maybe at the end he will have to only get 8 GB of RAM and not play those games that actually require that much RAM. But maybe not. We just have to see the benchmarks for the RX 480 and the European prices for the custom (and Founder's, but mainly customs) GTX 1070.

Well, he can always get an RX 480 instead. I mean, we still don't know if it will compete with the 1070, but it makes sense it does. We will just have to wait for the benchmarks.