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ConnorGX

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    Intel i5 4690K
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z97 Extreme3
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2x4)
  • GPU
    Sapphire Vapor-X R9 280X
  • Case
    Corsair 300R Mid Tower
  • Storage
    Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB
  • PSU
    EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze
  • Display(s)
    24" LG M2452D
  • Cooling
    Stock
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB (Cherry MX Red)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Audio Technica ATH M50X / Antlion Modmic 2.0
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 64 Bit

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ConnorGX's Achievements

  1. I created a topic in a forum and want to move it to another one. How can I change that?
  2. Just uploaded one. Sorry i forgot to do it before hand
  3. The only reason I'm using this one was because it was free and now I have dual monitors. Will upgrade eventually (hopefully soon)
  4. I don't want to disable snapping completely, just at the border between the screens. It seems to work fine on the Windows 7 machines at my school, is this just a strange Windows 10 thing then?
  5. Just got a new monitor from my girlfriend that's somewhat old, but it looks like there's a small dead spider or something behind the glass but in front of the display. Any way I can remove it? On a side note: Is there even enough room for a bug to crawl up in between the glass and the display (is this even possible?) Thanks!
  6. My girlfriend let me have an oldish TV that she didn't need anymore, so that I could have a second monitor for free. If none of these problems can be fixed, that's still fine since it was free and all, but I would like to resolve them. Here's the situation: TV on the left is 1920x1080 and 24 inches diagonally. The new TV on the right is 1366x768 but about 31.5 inches diagonally (I know this setup isn't optimal, but it was cheap so I can't complain. Eventually, I'll get two (or more) identical and better monitors). As you can see in the picture, the TV on the left is physically much smaller but Windows recognizes the higher resolution as it being larger. This is a problem for mouse movement between the screens. I want to fix this without using Eyefinity (I'm not sure if that could fix it anyways) because I want them to act as separate monitors so that games and such will only run on one and I can have Discord or whatever up on the other. Also, when dragging a window from one screen to another, it tries to snap to the side of the screen unless I move it very quickly. Is there any way to resolve these issues? In the best case scenario, I would love to have all of the windows and stuff the same scale - even the mouse becomes much bigger when moving to the lower resolution screen, but there doesn't seem to be a way to scale things down. Also, it would be nice to be able to run games in one screen and switch back and forth between that and other applications on the other, so Eyefinity won't work. Thanks! Edit: If any software or something is available for download that would fix the issue, I am definitely willing to do that. There doesn't seem to be a way to fix it with just Windows
  7. That motherboard sounds great if it's better and cheaper but that is a link to an EVGA power supply
  8. I'll probably recommend OBS to him because I've had good experiences with it and I'm not sure of the exact upload speed but it is definitely fast enough to stream.
  9. So I'm trying to help my friend build a PC, because I have a little experience (not much) building my own and he has none. His wishlist: -Ability to game as well as stream (would streaming just require more CPU cores?? not sure what I need for that) -Under $1,000 US (including monitor) -Black and Yellow if possible (I was thinking make it basically all black then buy some cheap RGB light strips and put them in) I spent a few minutes looking around before I knew he needed a monitor as well and I came up with this parts list for around $1,000. (With monitor and changes it's around $1,200) Most updated parts list: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Connorfg/saved/jZbnTW Please let me know all about the good and bad choices I made in this parts list, it would really help me learn about choosing PC parts. Also, and advice as to what parts to downgrade to fit the monitor in the budget would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much EDIT: After advice about the parts list I made the changes and added in a decent (I think) monitor. Now all I need is to knock $200ish off the price. What would be the best way to do that?
  10. I'm using a Sapphire Vapor-X R9 280X and I just want a new graphics card because my favorite game, CS:GO, crashes quite a bit for some reason and I just want to play it. And yes, I have come here for help as well as AMD themselves. It's alot better now, but still not ideal.
  11. I just tried that, unfortunately it didn't work. I also tried "optimizing" the game from the AMD Gaming Evolved thing, which wanted me to increase all of the settings to max, which made the problem even worse.
  12. I apologize if this is in the wrong category, but I figured "Graphics Cards" was appropriate because that is where I believe the problem lies (maybe not, since all other games work fine at much higher settings) So whenever I play CS on higher settings after a few minutes of playing it decides to crash. The screen freezes and the sound that was currently playing loops, and then after a few seconds I am looking at my desktop and have to force CS to stop by closing it in the task manager. After that, a few errors usually come up (all of them are identical) in the bottom right, which say something to the effect of "Display drivers have stopped responding and have successfully been recovered" (Maybe not exact, but close). I have tried many many solutions but none of them seem to work besides running CS at the lowest settings which looks even shittier than source usually does. PC Specs: CPU - i5 4690K Motherboard - ASRock Z97 Extreme3 Memory - G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) Hard Drive - WD Caviar Blue 1TB Graphics Card - Sapphire Vapor-X R9 280X Power Supply - EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze OS - Windows 10 Things I have tried: -Lowering Settings (Fixed the problem, but every other game works fine at much higher settings such as GTA V so I love to run my favorite game at settings that don't make it look like shit) -Disabled Multicore Rendering -Deleted csgo.exe and verified integrity of game cache to download a new one -Updated Graphics Card Drivers/BIOS/Windows/Flash/Java/Direct X/probable some other shit that I was told to. -Added "-processheap" and "-cl_disablehtmlmotd 1" to launch options (I also already have "-novid" to skip intro video, "-tickrate 128" which I believe favors 128 tick servers I forget exactly why I put it in, and "+exec connor.cfg" to startup my autoexec file) -Uninstalling and reinstalling the entire game -Disabling the auto-record feature that comes on AMD cards (Plays.tv or Raptr or something, didn't uninstall just doesnt record gameplay anymore) Please, if you know anything about how to possibly fix this problem, even if its only slightly different than what I have already tried (maybe I did it wrong or something) please tell me. Thank you so much.
  13. After having it happen again, I did not notice the power LED turning off so I believe I was wrong about that detail
  14. Hey guys. First off I apologize in advance both this forum and the topic of networking in general are kind of new to me but I watch LTT and figured this would be a good place to come. So this problem started quite some time ago. I have Xfinity internet and according to my most recent speedtest.net test I'm getting about 15 ping, 30.05 Mbps down, and 6.06 up. My desktop is connected via Ethernet to my router/modem (and yes, it is the one they include that has both the router and modem in the same box). Multiple times a day my connection (along with everyone else in the house) suddenly drops, and the lights on the router/modem that are usually on (including Tel1, 5Ghz. 2.4Ghz, Online, US/DS, and I believe even the power indicator) slowly turn off one by one and then back on. I have called the company multiple times, and multiple people have come out to look at the problem, which usually results in them giving us a newer modem/router. Supposedly, we now have the newest model that they send out, but this problem has occurred on all the router/modems they give us (as far as I can remember, but I could be wrong on that detail). I've talked to some of my friends who know much much more about networking than I do, but I thought coming here might be beneficial. Ask any questions you need to but please help. Thanks
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