Tylerebowers

Absolutely no clue why it is so cheap, maybe something wrong with the seller?
I think you'd be protected through Amazon, maybe record yourself opening the package.
"The Amazon A-to-z Guarantee protects you when you purchase items sold and fulfilled by a third party seller. Our guarantee covers both the timely delivery and the condition of your items. If either are unsatisfactory, you can report the problem to us and our team will determine if you are eligible for a refund."
Who wants to try 🙂
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBJDS62N?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
 
 

Here are some videos on my own channel about the 3rd edition of this kit:
Full Kit review: 
3rd Edition Student VHS Tape:
3rd Edition Teacher VHS Tape: (FYI not that interesting)
Chip Kit only review: (Not as great as the full review)
 

Here are some pictures of the poster that was included in the 3rd edition kit.
Here is another video by NostalgiaNerd showing this kit:
 
Here is some more info on these kits:
https://www.chipsetc.com/intel-journey-inside-educational-chip-kits.html
Pictures of a display for the wafers and chips:
 

here is third ed. vhs video
 

I really though that I was the only one having this issue and was wondering what the cause was! I have a Msi Mag x570 Tomahawk Wifi, bios fully up to date, all drivers up to date. I have BOTH Debian 11 (Linux) and Windows 11 and I can confirm that the issue is present on both operating systems. It is NOT just a windows 11 problem.

I really though that I was the only one having this issue and was wondering what the cause was! I have a Msi Mag x570 Tomahawk Wifi, bios fully up to date, all drivers up to date. I have BOTH Debian 11 (Linux) and Windows 11 and I can confirm that the issue is present on both operating systems. It is NOT just a windows 11 problem.

I really though that I was the only one having this issue and was wondering what the cause was! I have a Msi Mag x570 Tomahawk Wifi, bios fully up to date, all drivers up to date. I have BOTH Debian 11 (Linux) and Windows 11 and I can confirm that the issue is present on both operating systems. It is NOT just a windows 11 problem.

it is TridentZ Royal, so it being a deal is kind of an oxymoron

You will need a lot of ram, I used to run one back in the day and a quad-core would be fine. But to really know what specs are needed you need to know how many people are going to be on it. With no players you need 1.5 gb of ram to run. I do not know per player specs though.
 
For reference:
A Pentium g3258 and 4gb of ram will handle around 10 players.

The fix to this is usually to unplug the monitor's power cable for around 5 minutes and reconnect again to unload a capacitor or something.

Those are the same link.

Source: https://w2.outlook.com/l/upsell
In the future, it seems like Ads will be coming to the windows mail app.
You will have to pay for office 365 to get an "Ad-free inbox"

I'm getting some "delete system 32" vibes from this

Both the iPad and the MacBook probably have the sensor for when the cover is closed.
 
 

raspberry pi zero and a tiny display?

What software you using to measure the temperatures.
A few of them do not read the sensor temperature correctly.
 
I've used HWMonitor for the majority when my FX-8350 was my daily/primary system, and the readings were more realistic.
The temperature reading under the 'CPU' > 'FX-8320' tab is going to be inccorect .. that is, until higher temperature ranges.
(e.g. CPU has been under stress test for ~5 minutes)
The readings under 'Temperature' tab are the ones you want to look at (I need to confirm this when I get home, restricted network at my work).
 
 
EDIT:
I remember getting confused with temperatures that were under 10*C on my socket FM1 AMD APU, and similarly weird readings from my Phenom II X4 and X6 CPUs...ended up asking on forums about it as well.
 
For an example, in HWMonitor, if you look at my screenshot, the FX-8350 > Temperatures > Package tab doesn't quite make sense..18*C.
That is BELOW ambient (room temperature); for air cooling, that is PHYSICALLY impossible -- you break the laws of Physics.
 
Now, check the Temperatures tab, you will see a reading for CPU, Mainboard, SB, NB, etc, etc.
THAT is where you want to be looking.
Depending on your motherboard it MAY NOT specifically be labelled as 'CPU' or 'Mainboard'.
My ASUS motherboards showed this, but my Gigabyte did not.
 
From what I know (not sure if it is still the same), MSi and Gigabyte AM3/AM3+ motherboards will show TIMPIN0, TMPIN1, TMPIN2 instead.
 

 
 
Another screenshot, when I was attempting to push my FX-8350 to 5GHz+
You can see the CPU temperature reaching a maximum of 62*C.
If memory serves, at one point, with 1.5V, it was up into the mid 70*C ~ 80*C range -- which makes sense.
 

My Favorites
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BKW9TW/corsair-case-750d
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mn3RsY/phanteks-case-phes614pbk
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7HkD4D/nzxt-case-cah440ww1
 
 

Something like this more or less?
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($389.99 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9i 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler  ($49.00 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - B360M DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($89.99 @ Memory Express)
Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($112.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($112.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($99.99 @ Memory Express)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($74.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card  ($619.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 3.1 MicroATX Mid Tower Case  ($52.00 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: Cooler Master - MasterWatt 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($68.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1670.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-06-29 10:06 EDT-0400
 
Use pcpartpicker as it's easier to find the better deals out there, your original listing has some issues like a low quality PSU, worse memory and 120GB for boot SSD personally speaking is quite limiting.

Try upgrading all the packages (if you haven't already).
sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get upgrade and then restart

You know those really clicky light switches? I finally figured out how they click so much. They use Cherry MX Blue switches. 

I'm saying no. 20 have been sold in the last 24 hours and his only feedback in the last 12 months is from buying two things from the same seller, no selling feedback. 
 
Wait a few days and he'll have a bunch of negative feedback and he'll burn the account. Fairly common way of scamming, by using an account with at least some feedback, sell a load of things really quick so you don't get negative feedback, then transfer the money out of the account and shut them down to try to avoid PayPal recovering the money.
 

It's still a hassle for absolutely ZERO return. It's one thing to take a chance on something that has a shot of working out, but there's literally zero chance this isn't a scam.

Does it at least beep? If not, it is probably the mobo (assuming you actually have a buzzer). Check the capacitors around the CPU, if there are some blown off - it is 99% the mobo.

No, the upgrade won't delete files, you won't need a new product key. 
 
It's a good idea to backup your data before the upgrade though, just in case something goes wrong in the process. 

a 1080 always get 1 powerful card over 2 weaker ones 
 
also you cant sli 1050 ti