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DerKleineLeo

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About DerKleineLeo

  • Birthday Jun 27, 1999

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Occupation
    CS Student/Part Time Sysadmin

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 3700X @ 4.3Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix X470-F Gaming
  • RAM
    2x 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX @ 3600Mhz CL20
  • GPU
    RTX 3070 FE
  • Case
    BeQuiet Dark Base 700 White
  • Storage
    1* Corsair MP510 960GB, 1*WD SN550, 2* Crucial BX300 480GB
  • PSU
    Seasonic PRIME PX-750
  • Display(s)
    Acer Nitro VG270UP, VG270U
  • Cooling
    BeQuiet Dark Rock
  • Keyboard
    SPC Gear GK630K
  • Mouse
    Logitech G305
  • Sound
    Corsair Void Pro Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
  • Laptop
    Lenovo C340, i7 10510, 8GB (dual booting W11 and macOS Big Sur), iPad Pro 12.9
  • Phone
    iPhone 11 Pro Max

DerKleineLeo's Achievements

  1. The amount of hilariously bad takes on this already has me excited for the next WAN show.
  2. This is only true when you begin counting at 0. Always check your mainboards manual for memory installation.
  3. I just discovered that my monitor (Acer VG270UP) has two options for "Virtual Response Boost": Normal and Extreme. Afaik, "Virtual Response Boost" is just their name for backlight strobing, so I don't see why this should have two options. I couldn't find any explanation and cant really see any difference. The image gets a lot darker, when going from normal to extreme, but motion blur and ghosting don't change noticeably. Thus my guess is, that normal strobes the backlight at half the frequency (72Hz), while extreme does the full frequency. I'm not sure about this though, so does anyone here know?
  4. Just in case someone comes to this thread searching for the answer (or you haven't figured this out yet): You have to enable the RGB input on the fan hub by holding the color change button on the front of the case for 3 seconds. After that it's controllable like any other 12V LED strip. I spent half my friday to figure this out...
  5. My USB microphone (Recording Tools MCU-02) won't install on my PC, every time I plug it in, it doesn't work, device manager tells me Code 10, the device isn't starting up (it shows up as "gecordin" or "USB Audio Device"). If I plug the same microphone into another PC (both running Windows 10 Pro), it is properly recognised and works as expected. I suspected some sort of chipset driver issue, so I tried to update those, plug the microphone in all different USB ports I have (USB 2.0 as well as 3.0) and used a different cable, all without success. I completely reinstalled Windows yesterday, which also didn't help. Any Ideas?
  6. I sometimes (about once per hour) experience static noise on my microphone (a USB condenser mic). It appears totally random and I can't hear anything (I just get notified about it on Teamspeak). The strange thing is, I'm experiencing the same thing on my landline phone while it's plugged into the charging base (as soon as I take it out, it sounds normal). As I suspected some sort of power issue, I already plugged my PC into another outlet and removed all other devices from the phones outlet which didn't help. I'm running a desktop with a Thermaltake PSU, an MSI Motherboard and the microphone is a Recording Tools MCU-02. I'm really stuck on this and appreciate any help or suggestions Edit: I’ve just seen this post again. This issue has been resolved after switching my mainboard, PSU and case. In retrospect, I’m convinced this issue was related to me completely messing up the grounding on my PC (at that time, I was running a converted Powermac G5 case, the mainboard stand-offs were probably not connected to any grounding). Even though the mainboard should usually be grounded by the PSU, there may have been some major issues with my particular setup. TL:DR: Don’t try to build your own case, buy a quality PSU if you want to work with audio gear.
  7. I just bought a new 4K HDR TV (LG 49SK7900). Now when I connect the TV to my PC over HDMI, Windows sends me back to the login screen. When I enter my password it takes me back to the login-screen (the one where I press enter to enter my password). The TV itself gets a Signal. With the TV, I have 3 monitors in total, one is 120hz/1080p/SDR (connected over DVI), one 60hz/1080p/SDR (DP to VGA adaptor) and the TV (HDMI). I'm running a GTX 1070 (drivers are up-to-date). Once I disconnect the TV, I can get back to the desktop and everything works. Things i tried so far: -Connecting only the TV (it works normally, but I still can't log in). -Disconnecting any of the two monitors -Enabling the "HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Colour"-Setting, which didn't change anything -Windows Start Repair thingy Any help and advice is appreciated. System Specs (I don't see why they would matter, but anyways): i7 4770 16GB DDR3 (Dual-Channel) GTX 1070 Creative Soundblaster X-Fi (had some issues with this in the past but I don't see any connection to this) Windows 10 (1803 / 17134.345) Might be noteworthy that the panels native refresh rate is 50hz. Edit: Wow, after hours of trying stuff I found out that my Windows theme was the cause. After I disabled it, the TV worked as expected.
  8. Cpu: i5 4670Gpu: Palit GTX 770 Jetstream 2GB @~1400mhzRam: 8gb DDR3 1600mhzScore: 2.3
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