mariushm

Yeah, test your ram first, use memtest86, make a bootable usb stick and boot from stick to test the memory. If you get errors, try setting the ram at 3000 Mhz and test the ram again. Look at smart info and make sure the hard drive isn't failing. Install latest AMD chipset drivers if you didn't, maybe there's some bug or some quirk in older chipset drivers or windows drivers that would cause errors in reading data from hard drive, or maybe the sata cable is bad. If you have a spare sata cable, try changing it. Also try changing the sata port on the motherboard, just in case the one you use is not making good contact or something causes data transfer errors.. Look in Windows Event Viewer (type "event viewer" in the search box) after crashes or freezes, see if something shows up there in System, like "this driver is not responding" or something to that effect.

It's just another Apple scheme to prevent parts from being used. They claim you can use them as long as they're not marked stolen, but they can simply say they're marked as stolen and come up with something like "Ask the original owner to take a picture of the receipt and send it to us and an operator will review it within 7 days" and now your third party repair service is dead, because nobody's gonna wait that long to have their screen repaired, and no original owner is gonna find their receipt and upload it or whatever... if you even know who sold their iphone as broken (for parts) Even if that works, you think their service won't magically get "under maintenance" periods or Apple will log whatever IPs request the most replacements and then come up with ways of raiding those places for illegal parts or for other reasons.

Considering it's just two wires, probably goes to some led on the plastic making a logo glow, or something like that.

You connect a raw lcd segment display using a zebra strip (elastomeric connector) : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastomeric_connector The other side is just buttons ... you put the rubber membrane on top of the pcb and when you press a button, the conductive material on the button creates a short between the two traces under the button.

On that build, probably the case is something I'd have an issue with. the video card is thick enough, and would leave you with little room between psu shroud and the video card, so it may affect cooling for the card, and if you actually add a card in the bottom x16 slot (running at 3.0 x4) you'd choke the video card even more. Otherwise motherboard is fine. May make sense to spend 5-10$ more and get some ram with lower CL than 40, maybe a CL36, and also 1 TB SSD would be better deal. AMD solution would be cheaper, or more feature packed at that price. AN example : PCPartPicker Part List: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/yZzkrv CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($488.00 @ Centre Com) CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 ZERO DARK PLUS 59.46 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.00 @ Amazon Australia) Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($244.00 @ I-Tech) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($159.00 @ BPC Technology) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN580 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($109.00 @ Centre Com) Case: Thermaltake V250 TG ARGB Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($75.00 @ PLE Computers) Power Supply: FSP Group Hydro G PRO ATX3.0(PCIe5.0) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($167.77 @ JW Computers) Total: $1306.77 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-18 22:46 AEST+1000 Add $100 to upgrade to 7800X3d - the extra 64 mb cache can help in some games. Add whatever video card you want - your card was $1000 so with my $1307 you're looking at same price.

All i can say is make sure you're inserting it in the right way into the motherboard. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode to test if each wire goes in the right location and doesn't short with other wires or isn't broken somewhere along the cable.

A computer or any device with switching power supply (TVs, phone chargers etc) won't care that much if the output is pure sine wave or approximated sine wave. Some cheaper switching power supplies may not be able to output the maximum they're capable of with approximated sine wave as approximated sine wave is harder on the Active PFC portion of the power supply - for example a 650w power supply may only be able to output 550w with approximated sine wave. I think you should be fine with the 900 model with pure sine wave output, but if the 1000 model is cheaper that should also work well. The 1000 has a bunch more features which would make me think it's more expensive, but being approximate sine wave output may mean it's actually cheaper. They both kinda suck in the battery capacity department, the 900va one has only one 12v 8Ah lead acid battery, the other one probably also has just one battery but it's not clear what Ah size it is. If you're gaming while power is lost, these will keep your system running for maybe 2-3 minutes, but if you quit the game right away it may last around 10-15 minutes or so.

No, it's fine like that. In theory, it would be a bit better if it's going around the back of the card (go right in the second picture where the 3 wire connector is , then along the motherboard edge). This way you're not obstructing the air in front of the fan, and in theory there's less electro-magnetic radiation being picked up by the cable (but the cable is shielded so it doesn't matter) You'd want to also check the ribbon cable that gives power to the video card, make sure it's not blocking/obstructing the path of the air into the fan.

Uninstall it, and install qBitTorrent or some other client ... qBitTorrent is very good.

Don't waste your money with a RX 550, it's much lower performance than a RX 470. If you want something similar in performance to a RX 470 / RX 570 but less power hungry look for a 1650 or 1660 ... Your GTX 650 consumes up to around 60 watts, a 1650 consumes up to 80 watts, 1650 Super goes up to 95 watts and 1660 Super goes to 110 watts. If that's the only option, ignore everyone and just get the video card and see what happens. if your system crashes or resets, go in AMD control center and reduce the power budget of the video card by 5-10% to get the power consumption down by around 10-20 watts. There's also other features in the control center like "chill" which reduces power consumption. The power supply is not great, but your other components also don't consume a lot of power. You SHOULD upgrade with another stick of ram as soon as you can. It doesn't add much to the power consumption, just 2-3 watts, and that's from 3.3v or 5.0v Dual channel increases the performance in a noticeable way, and having 16 GB of memory will also increase performance quite a bit by reducing the amount of data your Windows will swap all the time to the SSD or hard drive, so the system will feel better.

A RX 470 card on its own will consume around 160 watts only from the 12v output of your power supply. It will take these 160 watts from two places : around 50-60 watts from the pci-e slot, which in turn is powered from the 24 pin atx connector, and the remaining 90-100 watts is taken from the pci-e 8 pin connector. Your power supply claims to have two rails, each capable of up to 18A (12v x 18A = 216 watts) but in total, a maximum of only 400 watts is available on 12v. So the video card will take around 50-60 watts from RAIL 1 (which is probably CPU + 24 pin ATX + some peripherals) and 100 watts from RAIL 2 (pci-e connectors + some peripherals usually) The rest of your components don't consume a lot. At 100% cpu usage, the i5 2500 will consume around 65w from the 12v output. RAM is powered from 5v or 3.3v, and consumes around 2-3w per stick. A mechanical hard drive consumes around 2-3w from 5v and around 4-6w from 12v (to spin the motor), a SSD consumes around 1-2w when reading files, up to around 4-8w when writing a lot, all this from 5v. Fans consume around 2-3 watts from 12v. So your 12v power consumption is around 160w for video card, let's say 70w for the CPU, maybe 10w for the fans, maybe 10w for hard drive and other things. That would make it a total of around 250 watts out of those 400 watts. RX 470 is not a modern video card that sucks power in short bursts or one that has very brief high power draw demands (for example some nvidia cards average 200w but may have spikes of power draw up to 300w, for like 5-10ms, and some power supplies can't handle that) so in theory the power supply you have should work with a RX 470. But if you can , you should indeed upgrade your power supply. Doesn't have to be very high wattage, a decent 550-600w from a brand name would be fine.

In your case, it would be overall better to stay with 2 x 16 GB sticks, either 3600 Mhz CL16 ... CL 18 (if it's higher than CL19, it's not worth it) or 3200 Mhz, ideally CL16. A pair of ram sticks running at 3600 Mhz CL18 will behave about the same as 3200 Mhz CL16, you wouldn't feel a difference in most applications. Ryzen likes high ram frequencies, so 3200 Mhz is the minimum you should get. There are tiny jumps in overall performance going from 2666 to 2833 to 3000 to 3200 and above 3200, it's much smaller performance increase. 16 GB sticks will also have a better resale value, should you chose to sell your whole system at some point in the future. If you want 4 sticks for aesthetics, it's also fine, but be aware you may leave a tiny bit of potential performance off the table because of the single rank versus dual rank issue I mentioned.

Replace with the fastest video card you can afford buying and that the power supply can handle . Lots of modern video cards will not give you the maximum performance with a 12400f, that doesn't mean you should buy shitty video cards at high prices for that reason - you can always upgrade the cpu at a later time. Also, when a card is EOL'ed or moved into the "legacy" doesn't mean it will stop working or anything, it will just mean nVidia will no longer include updates for it in the driver. The last driver will keep working just fine. Some very new games may have visual glitches or issues that won't be fixed for your video card , but otherwise the card will work just fine with games that were supported in the latest driver.

So just make a f*@ing poll here on the forums and ask how many people just plug the sticks and set the frequency to 3200 or 3600 / enable XMP and how many actually go further and tune memory parameters. Then realize LTT forums are actually not even representative of the majority of computer users, because a lot of users here are more technical than most people who buy pre-made computers or build their computers for the first time or just want to upgrade an old system. Maybe you'll wake up to reality. Give advice for the majority of people , assume people don't want to spend hours tweaking memory, because they don't care about overclocking. Even among the people that are experienced, don't assume they do it. I have a lot of knowledge, I know how to overclock, I just can't be bothered to waste hours tuning ram only to have to retune it half a year later due to aging, or to have to wonder why random resets or crashes in games happen and lose data or whatever. I only mentioned about single rank / dual rank and single channel / dual channel because these are automated things, no user interaction, it's just potential extra performance GUARANTEED by using memory sticks and hardware as designed. To make an analogy, it's like recommending winter tires instead of all terrain/season tires during winter - all terrain/season (single rank) would work just fine, but you may get a slightly better performance for no extra effort by going with winter tires (dual rank). Your overclocking advice is like telling the guy to buy autumn tires and to manually cut grooves in the tire in a specific way to get winter performance, to inflate at specific pressure, and some other stupid tweaks. Not everyone cares enough or wants to mess around.

You keep doing these replies ... get it through your head, not everybody cares about overclocking... stop recommending things from an overclocking point of view. Recommend something based on default (as you purchase) performance and specs. Nothing in the original post hints at him being willing to overclock 3200 Mhz sticks to 4000 Mhz or anything of that sort. You don't know if he cares about overclocking or not. He only said about video editing, working on "AI enhancement of pics and videos", so maybe she/he prefers stability over minor increases in performance. At 3200 or 3600 Mhz, majority of b550 motherboards will work very well with 4 sticks. Still, not a good idea in 2024 to use single rank 8 GB sticks, and if you don't know what to look for, there's a good chance you'd get single rank sticks and you'd simply be leaving some performance unused. It would still work fine, but it's not the best you could do. No it's not a given. Yes, there's 16 gbit ICs but those would still pack a premium... and there's lots of 16 gbit dies with flaws that are sold as 8 gbit and there's binning of chips in various categories, so you can still get 16 GB sticks and be fairly sure they're dual rank. It's enough to look at QVL lists of various motherboards to find plenty of models tested that are dual rank...

You should always fill ram in pairs , you need at least dual channel otherwise you lose performance. There's only 2 channels on B550 / socket AM4 boards, with 4 sticks you're still gonna have Dual Channel. 8 GB sticks will most likely be Single Rank these days, so with 4 sticks you're gonna have 2 channels , 1 rank so you don't get the most performance. 2 16 GB sticks will be 2 channels, 2 ranks ( most, let's say >75%) 16 GB sticks are dual ranks) so you'll get more performance with 2 ranks.

See in the fineprint if there's some kind of AUP (acceptable use policy) or Terms Of Service differences for the gigabit fiber vs the others. The 200 mbps may be unlimited best effort etc, the gigabit could be best effort for the first 1 TB and then they may throttle your connections. It also depends on your ISP... the 200mbps could be just throttled 1gbps or it could be some higher quality bandwidth... or the 1 gbps could be mixed with the signals for 50-100 other subscribers and mixed into a single 10gbps fiber so you may get inconsistent speeds, who knows.. I have Vodafone (former UPC) at home, 500 mbps down, 25 mbps up - I'm happy with it, could easily switch to the other main competitor and get 1 gbps both ways but the quality level would suffer (more variation in speeds across the world, depending on what fiber cables the ISP routes the data, higher latency in some places) Personally the lowest internet speeds I'd be happy with is 20 / 10 ... that's enough for watching Youtube at 1080p (I'm watching 720p mostly) , enough for some downloads without buffering online radios and youtube, and 10mbps is fast enough to not be annoying. I have 12/8 unlimited on my phone and it's perfectly fine for phone internet..

There's not enough capacitance for you to be dangerous for you, and the voltage (12v) is too low to be dangerous. It would be dangerous to mess around with the high voltage capacitors INSIDE the power supply, but the voltages on the headers are safe. Use some scissors to cut the plastic , or shove the sharp tip of a knife into the connector to cut the walls. I agree that you should double check that it's actually a Fractal Design employee, as it's not common to hear such advice from a tech support person, you could void your warranty in fact by damaging products.

PCI-e 4.0 requires better quality pcb, better trace layout... you could get the signal quality required by pci-e 4.0 with more pcb layers (and routing traces on multiple layers), and it just so happens that SOME x470 chipset motherboards were made with more layers, like server motherboards. x370 boards were in general lousy, not worth buying one today. Even with x470, use or more layers made the circuit board more expensive so they saved somewhere else, like in VRM quality for example, and using older onboard audio chips... there's quite a few B450 motherboards that have much better VRMs than x470 motherboards. It was only worth over B450 if you really needed to be able to separate the 16 into 2 x8 slots.

kinda shitty you're asking for $550 builds and then come up with 659$ build - not a big difference, just 20% of your total budget. 5600g is with integrated graphics and has only pci-e 3.0 lanes and will have weaker performance due to 16 MB L3 cache. Rx6600 / RX 6600 xt is 200-230$ new on newegg, it's only a bit slower than 5700xt but at least you get it new There's a 6650XT at $239 Yeston Radeon RX 6650 XT 8GB D6 GDDR6 128bit 7nm Desktop computer PC Video Graphics Cards support PCI-Express 4.0 3*DP+1*HDMI-compatible graphics card Double Fans - Newegg.com

Oh... Apevia power supply and that motherboard with the most basic IO shield possible. At $89, I'd rather buy a more featured B450 chipset board, like Asrock B450M steel legend : https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hNdxFT/asrock-b450m-steel-legend-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450m-steel-legend You only lose pci-e 4.0 lanes in the video card slot, but if you go for a budget build, you're not gonna buy a modern video card that would suffer from lack of pci-e 4.0 lanes. Or, go cheaper at 75$ and get a Asrock B450M Pro4 R2.0 : https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cYJp99/asrock-b450m-pro4-r20-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450m-pro4-r20 PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6dTsFs CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($134.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 R2.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.44 @ Amazon) Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($33.97 @ Amazon) Storage: Kingston NV2 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($67.98 @ Amazon) Total: $394.36 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-14 16:44 EDT-0400 That leaves you with 100$ to buy a video card. A "new" RX 580 is 105$ on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RX+580 It's still fine for low-medium 1080p gaming, and will do those games you mention just fine. Used video cards, you could probably find a genuine RX 580 even cheaper.

Fine, then Amazon.com: Lenovo - 300W Gen 3-2-in-1 Educational Computer - Laptop for Students - AMD 3015e Dual-Core Processor - 11.6" HD Touchscreen Display - 4GB Memory - 64GB Storage - Windows 10 Pro : Electronics could be an option - 2 core ,4 threads, up to 2.3 ghz ... 2700+ cpu benchmark points vs ~1600 for the n4020. but you lose screen quality and size, and disk space. I'd just convert the blurays to 720p h264 and put them on the ssd... and not bother with optical drives.

Get a new or refurbished laptop with an optical drive or add an usb optical drive ... you'll be able to easily recharge the battery from a car travel adapter or inverter etc etc For example, new models : https://www.newegg.com/p/1TS-006G-00057?Item=9SIBFJJJ4R1878 CHUWI HeroBook Pro 14.1'' Laptop Computer, 8GB RAM 256GB SSD, Windows 10 Laptop, Intel Celeron N4020 Processor, 1920x1080 FHD Display, Ultra Slim Notebook PC, WiFi, BT4.2 (Support Windows 11) Add an optical drive through USB or rip the DVDs at home and copy them on ssd etc etc processor is slow, but fast enough to play DVDs Another example : https://www.newegg.com/p/1TS-000E-19TG5?Item=9SIAJZDK4N6262 Lenovo IdeaPad 1 Laptop, 14" HD Display, Intel Celeron N4020, 4GB RAM, 128GB SSD + 64GB eMMC, Wi-Fi 6, Bluetooth, Media Card Reader, Long Battery Life, Win 11 S ... not even refurbished... You could easily rip a bunch of DVDs and store them on the 128 GB SSD, or you could use a usb optical drive. It's light, low power, can easily run from A cheaper example, $160 for https://www.newegg.com/p/1TS-000E-1ABD3?Item=9SIAKDXK702347

How fast a SSD controller writes depends on how many "channels" it has and what kind of flash memory chips it's combined with. Flash memory channels are made out of layers of memory, up to 96-128 even 176 layers of memory, and these layers are grouped into "channels" that a SSD controller can access independently. When the SSD controller receives a file to write, it can split the file virtually in multiple chunks and send each chunk to one channel, and that's how you get fast speeds. Here's for example the Samsung 990 Pro SSD specifications : https://www.techpowerup.com/ssd-specs/samsung-990-pro-2-tb.d862 and for comparison here's a second drive, Crucial p3 plus , https://www.techpowerup.com/ssd-specs/crucial-p3-plus-2-tb.d867 There's a controller with 8 channels, there's 2 Flash memory chips, and each Flash memory chip is made out of 16 dies each 512 Gbit (64 GB) in size, and each 64 GB die is arranged as 2 decks, 4 planes ... The controller can read data from an individual die at 1600 MB/s, but in TLC mode, it can write data at up to around 184 MB/s in each die. So it achieves fast write speeds by writing in parallel, to multiple dies at the same time ... in practice the controller can't write to all 32 dies at same time to achieve 2 chips x 16 dies x 184 MB/s = 5900MB/s, if it was to write entirely to TLC memory you'd get around 1800-2000 MB/s sustained. Crucial drive has a weaker controller with only 4 channels, and is made with QLC which is much slower, it can read from a die at up to around 700 MB/s but it can only write to a die at 27 MB/s so without a pseudo-SLC cache, the drive would write at 100-200 MB/s to the flash memory chips. In pseudo-SLC write cache, it can write at up to 4.2 GB/s until the write cache is full - by design the whole empty space can be converted to SLC mode to get faster speed (if you have 100 GB of free space, it's like having 25 GB of slc memory... if you write less than 25 GB, you'll write it fast) The Samsung controller also achieves the maximum of 6900 MB/s writes by converting TLC memory to pseudo-SLC where each cell stores 1 bit per cell (see paragraphs below) - this SSD can convert up to around 700 GB of free TLC memory into 226 GB of pseudo-SLC memory and as long as you don't write as much data as the write cache, you'll get close to 7 GB/s speeds. If you fill up the drive, the amount of write cache will be much smaller. For example, if you have only 100 GB of free space, that 100 GB is converted to around 30 GB of pseudo-SLC cache and you'll have around 40 GB of write cache (10 GB is permanently write cache). If you copy a 50 GB file, you'll copy around 35 GB at nearly 6-7 GB per second and then the controller has to take blocks of this pseudo-SLC memory and convert them back to TLC memory ... so it takes 24 MB of pseudo-SLC, writes them to a 64 MB block of TLC, converts the 24 MB back to 64 MB of TLC , repeat until it no longer needs to make room ... during this conversion process if you keep writing to disk, the speeds slows down, in the case of this Samsung drive, down to around 1400 MB/s . DRAM helps a tiny bit in write speeds, but only in the sense that the SSD controller can find much faster empty locations in the ram chips where to put the data, if the SLC write cache is full. Most modern SSD controllers take a portion of the empty Flash memory and switch it to a mode called pseudo-SLC mode, in which the flash memory can be written very fast, but can retain less data. For example, they take a 64 MB block of TLC memory, where each cell can hold 3 bits of data, or QLC memory where each cell can hold 4 bits of data, and store only 1 bit of data in each cell. So that unused 64 MB of TLC/QLC memory becomes around 20-24 MB of pseudo-SLC write cache which is much much faster to write to. When you're writing a file to the SSD, the SSD controller writes the file wuickly in this hidden pseudo-SLC write cache and when the cache is full or when you're not writing anything to the SSD, the SSD controller starts looking for empty TLC/QLC areas where to store that file in a more permanent way.

The DRAM is basically one of the tiny chips you find on a regular DDR4 or DDR3 stick : Here you go, 8 DRAM chips ... maybe another 8 on the other side. SSDs may use slightly different dram chips (ex DDR4L) but the basics are the same. The SSD controller can use one or more of DRAM chips to store temporary data into that memory, because reading data from these DRAM chips is faster compared to reading the data from the flash memory chips. The downside is that making SSD controller use DRAM means a larger chip, because the controller chip now has to include an extra memory controller and the chip must only include the contacts for all the wires going to the DRAM chip or chips - that's why on cheaper SSDs, they use DRAMless SSD controllers, because those cost less money and they can have bigger profits by using such controllers. Here's an example of a nvme SSD with a DRAM chip, the WD SN850 : From left to right, the SanDisk chip is the controller, the rectangular chip is the DDR4 memory, the big two chips to the right are the flash memory. The small chips are voltage regulators (converting 3.3v to 2.5v or 1.8v or other voltages the chips need) and maybe firmware chips (like the bios chip), if the ssd controller doesn't have built in memory for it. DRAM is not generally used to cache file writes, having DRAM doesn't mean the drive will write faster to the SSD. Most drives will fill the DRAM with a lookup table, to quickly find where in the flash memory chips some piece of data is located (because data is spread all over the flash memory chips, unlike with mechanical drives where data is kept in concentric tracks, ordered sequentially.