SirDarknight

Lian Li Unifan is the hottest choice in the market right now but what other good affordable options are there? My motherboard is the MSI Z490 Gaming Plus and I'll be installing a total of 6 fans (3 front, 2 top radiator, 1 rear). The case is 4000D Airflow. I'd love to be able to control all the RGB with a single software if that's possible. I've been looking into Asiahorse but the reviews on Amazon say something about leaks. I'm confused.

I have to choose between these three for my laptop. Are any of these electrically conductive? Is there any risk of damaging the laptop?

That's the thing. Sending something to warranty is a nightmare in my country. It'd take around 1.5-2 months for the whole procedure to end and I have heard people receiving "Warranty not eligible" notice after waiting that long and getting the same lemon back. So, I was trying to avoid that.

I've been a PC gamer for as long as I can remember but due to unavoidable circumstances I had to sell my desktop and settle for a laptop. Gaming laptops aren't widely available in my country. Acer Nitro 5 (2020) was the only viable option within my budget. Now, I know that the Nitro series is notorious for its overheating tendencies but a lot of people assured me that the cooling was significantly improved in the 2020 model but my experience says otherwise. When I first got it, the idle temps hovered around 65-70C (plugged in, HP mode, normal fan speed). During gaming, the temps would spike to 92C and thermal throttle the CPU. I compared a lot of benchmarks and figured out that I was getting way less performance than I should, due to the throttling. Undervolting isn't allowed on 10th gen chips either (Some laptops can still do it, but not Acer). For some reason, getting a laptop cooler didn't make any difference as well. The peak temps would still be 92-93C. Some YouTube videos showed significant temp drops after repasting the CPU and GPU so I opted for that. I had some leftover Arctic MX-4 from my desktop gaming days. I opened up the laptop and repasted. Initially, I saw 2-3C drop in the temps, specially in the first few days. After a week or so, it was just as before. The same temps as before, the same performance drop. But, the main issue started after a month or so. The temps got worse than ever before. Now, during gaming, the temps go up to 94-95C and throttle like crazy. I don't even get 110 FPS in Valorant, or 65-70 FPS in GTA V while other 1660ti benchmarks show 250+ FPS in Valorant and 80-90 in GTA V. The lag is so crazy that I can't run Discord alongside any other game. I have to close everything running in the background to get a seemingly smooth experience in FPS games. If I keep the laptop running for more than 8-9 hours, even Windows animations start lagging. Spec: Acer Nitro 5 (2020) i7-10750H 16GB DDR4 - 2133 GTX 1660ti 512GB NVMe 1080p 144Hz panel Note: All the temps I mentioned are on HP mode, max fan speed. Note: Throttlestop or Intel XTU don't make any difference. Those are disabled on the 10th gen chips. The Throttlestop speedshift helps the temps but the performance doesn't improve at all. Note: Should I try repasting again? The paste I applied first time was pretty old (more than a year or so), could that be the reason for temp spikes again? Note: The vendor I got it from said I wouldn't be eligible for warranty if I repasted. So, that's not an option either.

Yep. After it shuts down, if I press the power button, it starts up, fans starts spinning and shows the BIOS flash and restarts again. Sometimes it goes to Windows loading screen and then restarts.

Not really, no. It just randomly shuts down. As I mentioned, I did run AIDA64 stress tests at 100% CPU load. If it was a thermal/CPU issues, shouldn't it have shut down then?

Believe me, it ain't as simple as the title suggests. I live in Bangladesh and my friend has this really old PC. The original spec was: Asus G31M mobo, Core 2 Duo, 2GB DDR2 RAM (yep!). She called me the other day and told me that her PC just shut down randomly during work and refusing to boot at all (Restarts after the BIOS screen or after the Windows loading screen). Now, this is pretty common issue, right? So, I brought her PC to my home, cleaned the RAMs and put them back on and the PC turned on normally. I gave it a clean installation of Windows and other apps and sent it back to her. She used it for about an hour before the problem started occurring again. I gave her the instructions on how to pull out the RAMs, PSU cables and put them back on again. She did that, PC started again and the problem started happening after a while again. Being it such an old machine, I didn't have any spare parts to swap and check what's causing the issue, so I took it to the local service shop and they said that the chipset(mobo) was overheating a lot and should be changed. They didn't have any G31 board so they gave us a G41M and a new 4GB DDR3 RAM. Came home, turned the PC on, used it for about 5-6hrs before the shutdowns and restarts started happening again! I suspected it was a PSU issue, so I got her a new PSU too. This time, the PC ran for a whole night before the problem started occurring again in the morning! Note: I did some googling and someone suggested that a peripheral might be "shorting" and causing such issues. So, I tested it by disconnecting the peripherals one by one and turning on the PC but the problem occurred nonetheless. Note2: When the PC runs normally (without restarting), I ran AIDA64 test and the temps never crossed 65C which should be pretty normal and the PC didn't crash under the stress tests either. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated guys! Thank you.

I know this sounds weird but it's true. In Windows 10, I get around 11-12MBps when uploading/downloading with Google Drive but it's only around 1-2 MBps when in Ubuntu (Kubuntu to be specific). With lsblk I found out there were two Ethernet drivers running together, so I disabled one but it didn't improve anything.

I did that, I cleaned my previous drivers with DDU and installed new drivers with Geforce Experience. I ran some benchmarks and compared them online and the scores are just fine if not better. It's the games that are the problems. Even after disabling all advanced graphics in GTA V(MSAA 4X), I get 45-55 FPS in average. FH3 is not playable at all, 25-30 FPS in Ultra.

I bought a Zotac 1070 Amp Extreme yesterday. You can see my complete spec in my signature. In 1080p, I'm getting about 25-30FPS in Forza Horizon 3, this is the settings I'm using: and this is my nVidia Control Panel settings: And I get about 40-55FPS in GTA V with similar settings (MSAA 4x) Is my RAM bottlenecking?

What's the best way to set some RGB strips in my PC case? The cheap ones come with an adapter and wall socket but it's a pain to route the cables out of my case, into a wall socket and I have to leave a PCI bracket open. I'm looking for something which I can connect to my PSU(maybe via a SATA power cable or molex) and I don't have to buy a new adapter or cables everytime I want to cut out a new strip. Something like the NZXT HUE+ but not that expensive.

This is my first time overclocking. I'm using a Hyper 212X and the air-flow is pretty good in my case. On stock, I get 67C load and 34C idle temp. Asrock offers this Extreme Tuning Utility which has an overclocking option, should I use it or just OC directly from BIOS? Also, as I'm total noob in this, I'd really appreciate if you could suggest the particular settings.

1070ti & 1080ti are way beyond my budget at this moment. A guy is selling his 980ti for around $300 in my country, 60FPS isn't my main concern. I just bought a 4K HDR TV and games look stunning on that, unfortunately my current GPU(R9 390) can't push even 20FPS in 4K. I just want a playable experience at High-medium settings.

Suddenly got stuck in scanning-repairing and automatic repair loop. It's an SSD. Windows suddenly prompted that I should restart my PC to complete the disk repair, I did it like an idiot and now I can't boot. It doesn't even boot to safe mode, I even disabled Automatic Repair from cmd but it just gave me "Your PC couldn't start properly" error. I also tried "chkntfs /x c:" to disable the disk check but didn't work either. I don't have any previous recovery image or anything. Kindly see the attachment PC Builders Forum.MP4

Routers are for some reasons pretty damn expensive in our country. Within my budget and requirements there are two main choices: NETGEAR R6220 AC1200 Totolink A3002RU AC1200 I know there are many more choices but these are the only ones available in my country within my budget. Any user review is appreciated

I'm getting a 4K TV very soon and I obviously won't always game on it with my R9 390, but I do wish to check out the performance. I heard somewhere that AMD cards don't support HDMI 2.0 which is needed for 3840x2160 res. So if they don't what are my options cuz my TV doesn't have Displayport. And let's say I sorted out that issue, now can 390 provide 3840x2160 at all? I obviously don't expect 60FPS on any of the AAA titles but would it be able to push at least 25-30 in High-medium? Note: I've the Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8G

I just checked with a friend who has the most basic Internet capable 1080p TV. The 4K one I saw has the same UI as my friend's, the most basic UI possible. Just youtube, netflix and a browser. But according to the website and reviews, this model is supposed to have full Android

So, I went to a shop that's pretty renowned for selling TVs (Not a lot of them in our country: Bangladesh). I saw a particular model that I liked but the problem is the one I saw in there has a different UI than the one I saw in Sony's site, Youtube reviews. This model runs on Android, has Google Play Store and everything. But the one in the shop just has the Youtube, Netflix, Amazon app and that's it. No content bar, no app store. After I came home and looked up the model, the UI is totally different. Is it possible that the one in the shop is just outdated, an update would change it?

My router is located in my bedroom whereas my Smart TV is in my living room. My router is just not strong enough to provide good speed all the way to my living room. For example, I get about 90Mbps download speed on my PC through Lan Cable but only about 10Mbps on my living room through WiFi. (Cuz there are a lot of walls in my home) So If I were to use a powerline extender, would I get similar speed as LAN? I don't need 90Mbps, I just need about 50-60 to stream Netflix, Youtube at 4K. I thought about running a Cat6 from my router to the TV but the distance is just too much and it'd look ugly.

Thinking of buying one of them. Some user reviews would be awesome. Also, is there anything better than those two in that price range?

I was thinking about getting it, but getting mixed reviews from people. I just want a good range(my house is about 1500-1800 sqft) and stable WiFi connection. If you don't think I should get it, please suggest something else within this price range ($40-$50). Not more than that, cuz it gets pricier in my country.

I have a USB 3.0 Adata flashdrive. It transfers at 9-11 MBps on my PC whereas it goes upto 65MBps on my friend's PC

It's Asrock's Z77 Extreme4. The front panel ports are USB 3.0, even if they were on other chipset, the difference shouldn't be this high

Yes of course. Sorry this is the best I can do now:

Is that even possible? The two cables are totally different, I'm positive I connected them properly. I also installed all the available drivers on the mobo's website.