Gamer

So in my experience i have found iTunes 11 (or whatever it is when the whole layout changed) to be the biggest heap of crap to date, but as always good ol' Apple have made it so that you have to be using iTunes 11 if you want to sync anything to your newly updated to IOS 7 iPhone 5. My question is: Does anyone know of a way to sync my iPhone with iTunes 10? Thanks in advance.

Yeah, he shows in the video that the SSAA is at x4.

Thanks for the quick responce, my specs as in my signature: (running at 1080p) CPU: i7-3770K 4.5Ghz @ 1.235v CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB Storage: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD/Western Digital Black 1TB 7200RPM GPU: Asus DirectCU II GTX 770 2GB Case: Cooler Master HAF XM PSU: Corsair AX860 Platinum Mouse: R.A.T. 9 Keyboard: CM Storm Ultimate Quickfire Cherry MX Blue Just so you know, ive never overclocked a GPU before so every detail on how would be a huge help! i hear EVGA Precision would be good to use? How would i increase my power limit? WildeTurtle : I realise that, but it was more the fact of the huge difference between mine and Linus' results.

So I have my Asus GTX770 DirectCU II here at stock clocks and i was really quite happy with it until i heard the performance Linus got with his in the review he did. Metro last light with all settings maxed (Like Linus' in the video) gives me 19FPS (With the SSAA at x2 it goes to 30), yet Linus was boasting 30 which is where im confused, I cant believe overclocking would make up this difference. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Crash or BSOD? if it was a crash, could just be coincidence.. There is no way BF3 strains the CPU like Prime does..

From personal experience i would recommend Prime 95 for stress testing (if a crash or BSOD hasn't occurred within an hour, its unlikely its ever going to. Also you should bare in mind that the CPU is never going to be stressed this much in real life conditions) and Real Temp GT for measuring temperatures, its also helpful to have CPU-Z and Task Manager open just to keep an eye on how everything is going. Not all chips will be able to reach a 4.7 overclock without the temps being too crazy so keep that in mind. If i was aiming for that OC i would touch nothing in the BIOS other than the multiplier and the voltage(To get into the BIOS spam the F2 button as soon as you press the power button). Set the multiplier to 47 and press enter, it will change the other numbers, then put the voltage from auto to manual mode and 1.35v. Press F10 and boot. If windows doesn't boot then re-enter the BIOS and up the voltage (considering the increase is in 0.005 increments, go steady. Keep doing this until you boot and get the above programmes running without crashing or BSOD for an hour and you should be good to go. make sure your temps don't go much above 80 unless you plan on shortening the life span of the CPU. Sorry if you know how to do all this, just making sure..

So i have my Asus GTX770 DirectCU II here at stock speeds and my question is firstly how should i go about overclocking this? (dont worry if you dont know) I'm guessing GPU Tweak.. and secondly will i actually notice any difference in frames? i dont want to go to all this trouble and only have a frame or two difference, if it was 10 frames that were talking about then i would be alot more tempted. Thanks in advance!

As it is i have a Noctua NH-D14 on a i7-3770K which has been overclocked to 4.5ghz with 1.235v. My idle temps are in the mid 20's to low 30's and 100% load temps are high 60's low 70's. My question is: Is water cooling worth it? Considering i can't see into my case and i dont particularly care about the noise (considering i can hardly hear my NH-D14 at 100% load).. i realise my load temps will be less and all but is it worth a couple hundred pounds to get a good liquid cooling setup? Edit: Sorry, just to metion the load temps are when running prime 95, not during any gaming or CPU intensive task that i run.

So i was just looking into water cooling and im hoping to get atleast a 360 rad in there (Dont think that will be a problem).. Obviously i want the biggest rad i can get, so targeting a 80mm rad and my question is: Would this be possible at all? and secondly could this be done as standard or would i need to start modding? If any of you know of a setup that would be on par with the suggested idea, please share! Also if any of you could give me a list as to all the things i would need i.e. pump and res config, tubing, rad, blocks, coolent, fans ect.. It would be much appreciated! (new to water cooling, so forgive me if this idea is stupid and my setup is in my signature) Thanks in advance!

So i just built my first system (specs in my signature) and i was thinking about swapping out the NH-D14 for a 360 Rad.. i know it will vary on the fans and the rad but assuming that i got fairly high end stuff, what would give me the better temps? the rad would be just for the CPU, i would leave the graphics card with its cooler. Thanks in advance!

This isnt me but you should definitely have a look, his work is really impressive! http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA

So, Ive just built my first gaming PC and decided to get the 770 DirectCU II rather than the 780 due to its excessive cost. My question is that, if in the future when the 780 has dropped in price some, would i be able to get a 780 (reference or non-reference) and use it in SLI mode with my 770? would it matter if it wasnt a DirectCU II? or could i get and EVGA or MSI? Thanks in advance!

I've got a Samsung 840 Pro 256gb. In my experience with this SSD it's awesome and incredibly fast along with the HUGE 7 year warranty that comes with it! I have a crummy 500gb external drive I use for mass storage (films, games est..) but the drive is old now and is becoming a pain to move large files across in a sensible time scale. A 4TB WD Red would just be amazing! If I don't win here, I think I might start saving up to get one! (Going to be a while though!) The reason i went with a SSD first over a mass storage drive is because it was the first time that i had ever used and SSD in a build and was very excited to test out the performance of the device and see if it lived up to my expectations, which it most deffinatly did. Also because i have the said external HDD which would do untill i was able to afford better. Re-Tweeted: https://twitter.com/JafaCakeMan

When the computer is starting and you get the black screen with the flashing cursor,spam the F8 key. This will take you to a menu where you will tell windows to start in safe mode. Once in safe mode and booted into windows, open the start button in the bottom left and in the search bar type run and hit enter. In the window that pops up delete whatever is in the box (if there is anything at all), type cmd and press enter. From there, to change a user's password, type: net user user_name /domain (replace user_name with your user name) When you are prompted to type a password for the user, type the new password, not the existing password. After you type the new password, the system prompts you to retype the password to confirm. The password is now changed. Alternatively, you can type the following command: net user user_name new_password (replace user_name with your user name and new_password with your new password) Now, DON'T forget it this time!

I had this exact problem and it was driving me crazy! I cannot remember exactly what to change (you'll need to search for this on youtube) but, I remember having to open up a fallout 3 file in notepad and change a line of code, or add a line and it was fixed! Sorry I can't tell you exactly but it should be easy to find now you know what to look for! Almost 100% sure this isn't a driver or hardware issue. Edit: Found it, check the description for what to do: