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Long-term storage has achieved yet another milestone. As you know, tape drives provide an incredible amount of storage capacity for a relatively cheap price. And this is another leap.

Source: https://blocksandfiles.com/2020/12/16/ibm-and-fujifilm-580tb-tape-capacity-record/

8 hours ago, Rockmasters28 said:

Ok so I tried taking side panel off and it didn't do anything. However, after booting up at the end of the day today (pc turned off for about 8 hours), I got 30-35C temps idle, without having changed anything and with Eco mode actually off. It was weird so I waited 10-15min but temps stayed stable. I launched Cyberpunk which raised CPU temp to about 70C, wwith spikes at 80-85C (keep in mind all graphics settings to highest). 

Then after quitting Cyberpunk, temperature wouldn't go down below 45C idle. I checked task manager and found that Corsair Service Remote ID was taking up 5-10% of CPU power. I had already disable iCue, but then I uninstalled and watched temps go down live as it uninstalled to about 38-40C idle.

 

It honestly looks like I am fine, and it was just iCue that was messing with my CPU. I'll try undervolting if I keep seeing high temps while gaming, or just reducing graphics settings.

That is weird, but totally possible. Even though you may have solved the problem for now, it's a good idea that you make sure that the hardware side of things won't cause any issues in the future. Re-checking is a good idea. Also, if you don't have an exhaust fan, get one.

8 minutes ago, Rockmasters28 said:

I used the pre applied one that came with the cooler, but I might buy new thermal paste and re apply to try.

Yes, that'd work.

Check if the plastic cover is still on there, lots of people forget to remove it!

Apply a pea sized amount in the middle, make sure you fasten the cooler evenly on all four sides, see if there's any excess paste that flows out. If there's any, wipe it with a tissue or a towel cloth and you're set.

Did you apply too much thermal paste? Or did you forget to remove the plastic covering of the base of your cooler?

9 hours ago, Caroline said:

reminds me of a "solar" calculator I had when I was like 7 years old, I used to place it at a window hoping the sunlight would charge it

 

Turns out it was just a brown plastic made to look like a solar panel, and it used 2 small button batteries that cost more than a new calculator

That's enough to make me get away from solar energy.

Actually I've also had one of these, lasted my dad over 10 years. Mostly because he worked in well-lit offices so it won't use the battery at all for long periods of time!
And after it died I actually got the panel out of the calculator shell and used it for a science experiment in school!

9 hours ago, Aereldor said:

It's completely ludicrous to suggest that an i3 10100 with a 1050 ti will result in a cpu bottleneck of all things, even in Skylines...

He wasn't asking about a bottleneck with this^ setup. It's with a new GPU.

Also, Skylines will work on it, no problem. It's when the city size starts getting bigger that it can start dropping frames and it will be really noticable & really annoying!

1 minute ago, NumLock21 said:

What's the point of making them transparent, when they're mostly installed on roof tops and people will not seem them anyway. Do people actually go up to their roofs to stared at solar panels?!

Windows, phone screens, and a bunch of other stuff, as stated in the article.

8 minutes ago, jokeTV said:

So my curent pc im using is so bad, that i cant get parts in latvia, so im gonna buy an new pc
i only wanna know one thing, is intel i3-10300 with nvidia 1050 ti gonna be good for games like roblox, cities skylines, Hearts of iron 4 or minecraft in 1080p display?

You can play AAA titles in low to medium settings, not sure about City Skylines since it is a CPU intensive game and can tax yours pretty easily. Consider getting AMD? LIke an old 2600 or 3600 if it's available in the second hand market there.

You don't need to worry about "damaging" your components, there won't be any. You just won't get the fps you need since the GPU is so old. 

Try getting new drivers?

or changing the PCI slot it is siting?

2 minutes ago, PARADOXBOT said:

i didn't know that. is it worth getting a new cpu for the gpu then?

A "real" upgrade would be getting a 3400G, but it'll depend on pricing and availability. I'd suggest rather not getting the 2400G in the first place since you're using a GPU to begin with. There won't be too much of a performance improvement.

2 hours ago, revfal said:

Hi thanks for the helpful reply, what about if I just straight up got a 3000 series card right now without upgrading my cpu/ram would that be a severe bottleneck?

 

I suggest you look out for old 2060 Supers. That way you can still get reasonable performance gain without changing anything else. 

I think a 4th Gen i5 would definitely bottleneck a 3060Ti and above. I don't know exactly by how much. Safe bet is to get a high end card from last gen, there are 1080Tis in the wild, get one and be happy!

The 3600 is the better value overall among the two you mentioned. Get that with a B450 MoBo, a 3000MHz ram kit and wait for a 3060Ti or a lower end card to come in stock. 

If you only get the CPU & ram combo and use it with the 1060, there will be a slight increase in framerates, but not much to make a difference, certainly not much to drive the AAA games at medium to high settings at 60fps at 1080p.

And yes, regardless of whether you choose to go Intel or AMD, you'll have to get new RAM. and no, the 3600 will not bottleneck a 3060Ti.

No risk. Just make sure that the screw is the same proportions and you're good.

11 minutes ago, Amias said:

Yup this is already DOA.

 

I've worked a lot with electronic organics materials. The sun will absolutely kill these. Organic compounds are not long life. It took ages to develop decent organic light emitting diodes that could last for screens, yet we still have lifetime issues (burn in). That's just by driving visible light. The Sun is a thousand times more damaging. These things would not last.

 

Then you've got the efficiency ... 1% ... normal solar panels are 20-30%.

 

Then you've got to imagine the price? Then the fact glass windows are typically orientated vertically, meaning they're poorly aligned to the sun.

 

Nice science click bait, however in reality this is not viable. Cost, life, efficiency and practicality ... all suck.

 

You're better off planting good, efficient traditional solar panels on your roof. 

 

 

Fair enough lol I was just excited since I've never imagined something like this!

Reserchers from the Michigan State University have developed a breakthrough in solar panel tech where it is not completely transparent (or almost).

The efficiency is at 1% at the moment but the researchers hope to get it to or above 5%. This can make it's way to tens if not hundreds/thousands of everyday applications around the world!

Source: https://www.arch2o.com/transparent-solar-panels-will-turn-windows-into-green-energy-collectors/?fbclid=IwAR3lIYfkKyjn-W8dfeVTLw235iPQiNOt7Z1yKjihKQFD0SNA-TB6QtYpc30

Video: 

It seems that the 3rd Gen Ryzen goodness doesn't end at mainstream level (obviously) but no one knew when it was gonna come, that is until now.

My thoughts

Another Holy $h!t video with Linus? Can't wait!

Source: 

https://wccftech.com/amd-3rd-gen-epyc-milan-cpu-specs-benchmarks-leak-out-up-to-64-cores-280w/amp/

First, whar are your current specs? What PSU do you have right now?

Second, you can't go wrong with Be Quiet ones but going from Gold to Platinum is a high jump in price but not so much in actual system performance. I'd reckon you can go with a 750W Gold modular PSU and call it a day.

The Be Quiet! 750W 80+ Plat PSU is only 137 Euros, and the 850W  is 157 Euros , both are pretty good values I reckon. They seems like good, futureproof choices either way.

36 minutes ago, Downkey said:

Ok, so I know this mouse is 2 years old at this point, but I just upgraded from a G502 and thought “Why not!”

 

Going from a G502 to a G305? Dang! That HAS to feel small obviously! 

And yes, as a former G102 owner, I reckon it's meant more for palm grip rather than claw, but the shape and feel both are good.

I'd like to know if there are any double click issues, which hundreds of G102 owners have complained about (I've fortuntely had none for the 2.5 years I used mine.)

Yeah most of these are valid because they cost so less. I'm looking more towards the value provided by these cases and my first inclinations were towards the two you mentioned. 

I picked out some cases on Amazon based on user ratings- over 2000 users have bought these cases- and they have over 4 stars. (not all, but most of them, some of them are found offline)

But I'd like to ask the community about their experience with the case- how easy is it to take apart, build in, maintain in the long run, the airflow, side panel quality and would you recommend it for any budget builds. 

Corsair 110R

Cooler Master MB311L

Cooler Master K501L

Ant Esports ICE-200TG

Ant Esports ICE-511MT

Any and all inputs are welcome. These cases in my local retail area cost less than $50 but seem to have a great value.

Freefly Systems is the company that makes professional frones, gimbals and other cinema gear. They've announced a high-speed camera that almost has everything that is lacking in most cinema cameras today. 

Features included:

super 35mm sensor with global shutter

420fps at 4k, 1440fps in 2K, unlimited record times (it can also shoot upto 9259fps but it crops vertically)

USB 3.2 connectivity

2TB nvme SSD internally, allowing 35 minutes of recording

Locking E mount by default, also compatible with PL, EF and M mounts

60+ minutes (claimed) runtime on 1 battery

Weighs 600g (body only)

Integrated support with Movi pro & Alta systems (gimbals & drones)

You can reserve one right now, but they'll start shipping it in Q2 2021.

Your thoughts? Overkill? Overpriced? Did you like the video?

Product page: https://freeflysystems.com/wave

Source: 

New cinema camera from Canon that looks like a hybrid between the 5D lineup and their EOS C lineup. It is the first cinema camera to have a native RF mount.  

Quick rundown of the features.

1. 4K Super 35mm DGO sensor
2. 16+ stops of dynamic range
3. Up to 4K 120fps 4:2:2 10-bit shooting capability, internally. 
4. Dual card slots
5. Dual Pixel AF
6. Pro I/O interfaces- XLR inputs, SDI, etc
7. tons more!

Leave your thoughts below!

Also, I believe Brandon should unbox and review this camera. Would love to watch it!

Source:

9 minutes ago, Mondas42 said:

Hi.

 

My daughter has just gone to university to study VFX and prop building for TV and Film. Due to the CV19 issue she is spending more time self studying than she normally would do. She uses Blender to create a lot of her course work, and currently has a 2070 in her rig. The render times are taking quite a while for some of her projects. Now I know a 3090 would be great, but can not afford that. So I got to thinking, would she be better off with a new 3070 when they come out (if we can get hold of one!!) or get her a second hand 2080ti from the bay of fleas which I can get now?

 

your thoughts as always welcome.

Wait for 3070 benchmarks and make the choice. Remember, the 3070 will be close to $500 and the 2080Ti will be at least $100 more in second-hand markets.
PS: Also to note, Navi announcement from AMD.

3 hours ago, fpo said:

I hope the soundtrack is mostly 1/2 steps or it’ll really negatively impact the western audience. 

I'm sure you'll enjoy this. 

This game is like nothing you've played before.