adm0n

You don't have to throw it out. You can either sell it or use it as a side monitor.
I'm not too familiar with the 4070 super but have you tried anything like changing the fan curve or what not? I'm not entirely sold on that the 4070 super will make less noise than AMD. I can't give you any recommendations in regards to AMD as I use NVidia myself.
 
I mean the GPU isn't exactly overkill but your monitor for example does make it overkill as you never go over 1080. A 4060 would have been enough but nothing wrong with that. The 5600x is also a pretty good CPU honestly and you might notice a difference when going 5700x3D but not only you'll be replacing something that works (looking at your monitor comment) but I'm not really a fan of upgrading within the same generation. I've had multiple friends who find the 5600x just fine though I'm unsure how Cyberpunk 2077 might work for them.
 
I'd like to know what you've done so far in regards to fan curves and stuff and personally I'd keep the GPU (assuming I'm not missing a glaring issue with that GPU) and keep the CPU and just go with a better monitor. It is your money though and I can't make that decision for you but from what I've gathered you don't have a huge problem aside from fan noise. A new CPU won't fix that and replacing the GPU might fix that but I doubt it personally. The monitor also isn't a must but if you want to use the GPU at its best then you could consider an upgrade.
 

Perfect thank you I wasnt expecting any of this I didn't know if it was a big market or not. Thank you very much.

Just looking for "portable blu ray player" brings up a plethora of devices that all basically do what you want.
 
But unless that isn't feasible for your use case, I'd really much rather go with a usb-c blu ray drive. That way you can watch the videos on any laptop, that is almost sure to have a better screen and better battery life. And for modern laptops you can also get a USB-C power bank to increase the battery life even further. Most portable blu ray players will need AC power.

Just looking for "portable blu ray player" brings up a plethora of devices that all basically do what you want.
 
But unless that isn't feasible for your use case, I'd really much rather go with a usb-c blu ray drive. That way you can watch the videos on any laptop, that is almost sure to have a better screen and better battery life. And for modern laptops you can also get a USB-C power bank to increase the battery life even further. Most portable blu ray players will need AC power.

Try running memtest - 
 

The amount of RAM used by games usually depends on how much is available on the latest console generation. So if you have nothing else open on your PC, 16 GB is still enough for almost all games currently, as the current console generation has only 16 GB of RAM as well (and that is combined CPU and GPU RAM!).
 
So my guess would be, that you'd be fine for at least the next console generation, if you get 32 GB of ram. All of that changes, if you have like 16 GB worth of other programs running in the background though!
You CPU/GPU will likely get less relevant before you will need more than 32 GB of RAM for gaming though. So don't worry about that too much.

There are multiple reasons I'd assume.
Some I can think of are
Having a dGPU like that, would take up actual PCIe lanes. So you are either stuck with -8 lanes permanently or you need a PCIe switch Board space for fitting all the components of an actual GPU Cooling and extra VRM Extra Cost It would likely only be viable for lower end GPUs, so it would only make sense if the whole contraption was somehow cheaper than just buying a motherboard and a GPU. But you'll hardly save anything, especially if you don't want to compromise on the motherboard functionality

Yeah, content consumption is like web page browsing and YouTube videos watching, the speakers don't matter that much.
 
Gonna check out system76, probably a high-power cpu. I was looking at the ThinkPad t14 gen 3. Thanks for the help

From what I can tell, you mostly need CPU power, while an iGPU could even be fine for you.
 
If Linux support is important for you, you could check out system76. Otherwise you can never really go wrong with Lenovo Thinkpads. You usually can also find a lot of them used. Just make sure to at least get 32 GB of RAM or look for models with upgradeable RAM. And I wouldn't go lower than 12th gen Intel or 3rd gen Zen.
This highly depends on how your use-case changes and if you are willing to maintain your laptop.
Do you actually want anything specific here? If you always use headphones anyway, I'd just make sure to get a somewhat decent screen. Better speakers can be hit or miss.
 
 
In your position I'd first figure out if you want a low power ~25W or high power ~45+W CPU and then go from there. If a low powered chip would be enough for you, the HP dragonfly series is pretty sweet. But you probably want a higher powered chip. That will likely mean a bulkier design and more fan noise.
 
For a good laptop reviews, I'd check out Notebookcheck.net

I would go to rtings.com, then select the table tool (-> https://www.rtings.com/tv/tools/table) and sort by PC-Monitor.
 

I would go to rtings.com, then select the table tool (-> https://www.rtings.com/tv/tools/table) and sort by PC-Monitor.
 

Happy to help!

To answer some of your questions
 
Fell the same way. I'm actively using a TV as a PC monitor, as it was just way cheaper. I just don't connect it to wifi, so the only thing I have to deal with, is going through a few steps to change the brightness. Otherwise you shouldn't really need to access the UI all that much.
 
I cannot speak for all TVs, but newer ones usually have an option to allow an input to be full RGB instead of being subsampled, and use full range instead of limited range.
The one thing, you might need to contend with is the subpixel layout, which might be different from what your PC expects. For example my TV has a BGR (blue green red) instead of RGB (red green blue) layout, which could make text look blurry. But luckily it being 4k makes up for that.
 
You should probably consider whether your want to get a LED or OLED TV, the latter is susceptible to "burn in", which basically means, that if the same image is shown on the screen for a long time, it might be slightly retained on the screen. UI elements of an OS are a likely culprit for this, but you will likely get multiple years out of your TV until this becomes a problem, if you buy a newer one.
 
You likely will need some kind of AMP, because whatever audio output the TV provides, it won't deliver enough actual power to power any kind of speaker. So either you will need powered speakers (with a build in amp) or a dedicated one. The most seamless experience would be using eARC. You can read up on that if you want!

Happy to help!

To answer some of your questions
 
Fell the same way. I'm actively using a TV as a PC monitor, as it was just way cheaper. I just don't connect it to wifi, so the only thing I have to deal with, is going through a few steps to change the brightness. Otherwise you shouldn't really need to access the UI all that much.
 
I cannot speak for all TVs, but newer ones usually have an option to allow an input to be full RGB instead of being subsampled, and use full range instead of limited range.
The one thing, you might need to contend with is the subpixel layout, which might be different from what your PC expects. For example my TV has a BGR (blue green red) instead of RGB (red green blue) layout, which could make text look blurry. But luckily it being 4k makes up for that.
 
You should probably consider whether your want to get a LED or OLED TV, the latter is susceptible to "burn in", which basically means, that if the same image is shown on the screen for a long time, it might be slightly retained on the screen. UI elements of an OS are a likely culprit for this, but you will likely get multiple years out of your TV until this becomes a problem, if you buy a newer one.
 
You likely will need some kind of AMP, because whatever audio output the TV provides, it won't deliver enough actual power to power any kind of speaker. So either you will need powered speakers (with a build in amp) or a dedicated one. The most seamless experience would be using eARC. You can read up on that if you want!

An AIO on this build isn't worth it. Get a 2 tower air cooler, like a thermaltake peerless assassin or phantom spirit.
 
Also, the 990 is a quality drive, but it is a poor value for money. Look at cheaper options.
 
3rd, avoid RGB ram and avoid buying 2 seperate sticks, get a cheaper kit that is atleast (2x16GB) 6000Mhz and CL36.
 
Also, the motherboard seems a little expensive, look for cheaper well reviewed options that have the features you want
 
Then try to fit a 4070 into the budget.

I also second always using a virtual environment for every project! You save yourself a lot of hassle that way.
 
If you don't want to use venv for it, I really liked using anaconda. It is able to even install non python dependencies that are needed for packages.
 
But using them or not, is more of a efficiency thing. If you continue to just do everything system wide, you will eventually run into a very annoying problem. And figure out, that it would be easier to just setup virtual environments for each of your projects after the fact, compared to trying to fix it system wide. So ... no matter how much you avoid virtual environments, they will almost surely find you and force you to use them.

I always use virtual environments for Python projects. It's really just a question of whether you want to install libraries for your current project only or for the entire system.
 
In my experience, they're most useful for managing different versions of libraries. For example, I recently started working on a project that required an older version of a library that I was already using for some other programs. Instead of installing the older version system-wide and potentially having version conflicts, you can just install it in a virtual environment for the one project. In cases like this, the developers will include a requirements.txt file which contains a list of libraries to use and their version numbers. This makes it super easy to get a new virtual environment up and running with just a few commands.

Thanks for the insight I will be sure to check out "OOP C" when I get to that level 😉

I find C++ too complicated and my goals are to be doing embedded system and kernel programming stuff(ik I am far from it now) so I thought C might be better here. Not to mention I find C simple & easy to understand.

Probably not really what you are after, but it is actually possible to implement classes into C, I believe parts of the linux kernel were written in "object oriented C".
 
The idea is basically implement some of the features C++ has, by hand. You'd just use a struct to store your data, if you want to have inheritance, you just have to make sure, that the parent class takes up the first part of the memory in the struct and functions can be handled via virtual function tables.
 
If you are at all interested in that, let me know. It's pretty neat to learn what OOP languages are actually doing in the background. On the other hand, it's probably more useful to learn C++.

According to all the rumors, there will be a new switch in the second half of this year. It will, however, be a bit more expensive ~$400 to $450. At least according to the rumors. They might hit $350, but that remains to be seen.
 
If you just want to play a few switch games, the way to go currently is just getting a steam deck and then emulate the switch games. That way you can play a lot of great PC games, as well as switch games in higher fidelity than the switch allows. If you like, you can even do this morally correct by buying the actual switch games, before you get the rom files from somewhere else.
 
You will have to deal with the hassle of emulating, if you go this route though. Some games won't work as well as on the real hardware, and sometimes you get some visual bugs. For example in the latest Zelda game, the switch is able to sort the "objects" it draws to your screen in a certain way, that allows for some very efficient transparency effects. PC GPUs don't have calls for this, so the "objects" are drawn at random, and you see some flickering. In that game, specifically whenever there is lava.
But most games work well enough, mostly better than on the switch itself and there is a large community for people emulating switch games on the steam deck. So you are likely to find answers to any problems you encounter fairly quickly.

This is perfectly normal, Ryzen CPUs basically always idle at 40C when at ~21C room temp, and most GPUs will leave the fans off until they hit 50C so 40C idle is expected. 
 
For standard temp testing of the CPU, I'll either do one of the Y-Cruncher stress tests or just Cinebench set to loop. For the GPU, something like Heaven benchmark on repeat is common, though so is Furmark and MSI Kombuster. For a temperature torture test, do both CPU and GPU at the same time. In this, I'd expect mid to upper 80s for the CPU (perhaps touching 90C), and for the GPU I'd be expecting something like 60-70. 
 
Other method is to just play a couple games and record the temps from them. As I'm guessing this is primarily a gaming system, this is probably the most relevant.

we need to get rid of it and we need the money so I think we can go for ~$100/euros. What about the other one? I don't know if it's VA or IPS since I couldn't find a product page but about the same right? It's the same size, resolution and maybe brightness too, it's just a samsung instead of a sony

Don't know if there is a big difference between the two models, for someone buying them today. Also can't find any good info on the specs of the Samsung one. Technically you could market it as smart-tv, if that still works. Maybe people pay more for it then.

If you need the money, you can just insert it for $200 and see if someone bites. Then lower it until you get someone. But you will probably sell it to someone who doesn't know any better and gave you too much money for it.
 
If you don't need the money, I don't know if its worth going through the hassle and doing someone a favor by giving it away for cheap is also an added bonus!
 
And by extension you'll get a warranty with it.
 
You don't know how long your TV will actually still live. Especially after it had to be transported to its new owner.

Regardless of the specifics of the panels, you gotta take into consideration it’s on paper a 40” 60hz 1080p tv. You can get new tvs with those specs for under $180 in the US, your region may vary.
I would probably list at 100 and drop to 80 if I just wanted it sold.