Veltrix

Help I am so annoyed and my PC has been plagued with this minimizing problem! This doesn't happen to just games also this happens to chrome and internet explorer! I have no antivirus program, just uninstalled Mcafee because that's what everyone else said in other forums but still keeps minimizing, I just did a clean up of all temp files and cleaned up all my missing DLL and fixed any registry errors but still no avail!! I have windows 7 64-bit with 8GB of ram so I don't have any ram issues. I think I've said enough but here are my specs and setup to make things a bit more clearer.
CPU: I7 2600K
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3
Video Card: EVGA GTX 560 Ti 448 classified ultra with 1280mb of video memory
Cooling: A noctua cooler forgot the name but I check and my temps are always at 60*C
PSU: OCZ ZX 850W 80 plus gold
Case: Zalman Z11 Plus w/ 2 USB 3.0
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 1333Mhz 2x4GB ram
OS: Windows Home Premium 64-bit
My set-up is one BenQ GW2750 monitor as my main and a LG Flatron E2241 as my secondary monitor, I'm thinking the two monitors are overworking my graphics card but having the second monitor I used afterburner to check my card and it ran at a good 72-76*C and the memory usage was always at 1086mb average.
Can someone please help me with this minimizing problems, sometimes its really bad because when I pop the game back its broken or a huge error load to the games engine so I have to restart it and so its really annoying right now!

I just use a damp/wet cloth and wipe it down, a washing machine/soap can damage the rubber on the back of the pad or cause it to start curling with hot temperatures or again damage the rubber back
 
Get a bowl of water, wet cloth and just work it over, and use another dry cloth to remove any water

What motherboard are you using?, if you are using ASUS then the ASUS Ai Suite should have an accurate sensor if not then I would try Hardware Monitor (HWMonitor) to see if that would work. Last one I can think of is one of AMD's own software AMD overdrive should show the temperatures correctly but I used this with an FX-6300 not sure if it will work with APU's. Hope this helps in anyway 

ive decided that i dont like the define R4 due to it looking dangerously like my fridge, my fridge is big bag of **** and the appearance of the R4 reminds me of it and that appearance leaves a bitter taste in my mouth.

Back Story:
My build started out back in March 18, 2012 (got that from the picture date) and over the next two years it gets upgrades from small to big ones. Currently I won't upgrade for a while so yeah... 
 
March 2012:
Specs:
CPU:                       Intel Core i5 650 @ 3.30GHz
Cooler:                   Corsair A70
GPU:                      ATI HD 4350 512MB
Motherboard:         Acer OEM board
RAM:                      Samsung Branded memory 6GB 
Case:                     Zalman Z11 Plus
PSU:                      Non-branded 430W 80+ Bronze
 









 
April 2012:
Changes:
CPU:                       Intel Core i5 650 @ 3.30GHz
Cooler:                   Corsair A70
GPU:                      EVGA GTX 560 Ti 448 Classified Ultra
Motherboard:         Acer OEM board
RAM:                      Samsung Branded memory 6GB 
Case:                     Zalman Z11 Plus
 
PSU:                      Thermaltake TR2 500W Changed : 1. Corsair AX750 : 2. OCZ ZX 850W 80+ Gold
 








 
July 2012: (Big Changes)
Changes:
CPU:                       Intel Core i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz
Cooler:                   Noctua NH-C12P-SE14
GPU:                      EVGA GTX 560 Ti 448 Classified Ultra
Motherboard:         Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H B3 Revision
RAM:                      G.Skill RipJawsX 8GB (2 DIMMS)
Case:                     Zalman Z11 Plus
PSU:                      OCZ ZX 850W 80+ Gold
 







 
March 2013: (Picture Heavy)
Changes:
CPU:                       Intel Core i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz 
Cooler:                   Noctua NH-C12P-SE14
GPU:                      EVGA GTX 560 Ti 448 Classified Ultra
Motherboard:         Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H B3 Revision
RAM:                      G.Skill RipJawsX 8GB (2 DIMMS) 
Case:                     Fractal Design Define R4 Arctic White w/ Acrylic Window
PSU:                      OCZ ZX 850W 80+ Gold
 





















 
April 2014:
No Specs changed but I got tired of the bright LED fans and the extra noise that comes with all 7 fans so I got rid of some fans. I currently now have just the two fractal fans and the Noctua fans on the Cooler. So 3 fans in total. Much quieter now and no more glaring LED lights. 
 



 
Desk Evolution and Peripherals:
My peripherals over the years:
Monitor: LG Flatron E2241 (1080p)  - >  BenQ GW2750 (1080p) *CURRENT*
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K90  - >  Corsair Vengeance K95 *CURRENT*
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M60 *CURRENT*
 
Desk/Monitor



 
Keyboard





 
Mouse


 

Hahaha well I have a downdraft cooler [Noctua NH-C12P-SE14] and so the cooler is placed in a way that the fins are vertical because that was one of the two recommended way to mount the cooler from Noctua. So the air is drafted upwards and down to the graphics card 50/50 and having that rear exhaust would be useless or less efficient. I saw what you did with the modular vent and so I did that and put the fans as one of the top exhaust. I have better temps now, thanks to you and my system is still silent [Double edge sword]. {side note: I should upload my R4 rig too, maybe when I get the time to do a photo shoot for my system haha}

Aha np. Surprised you actually noticed that. It's one of those things that make the build look neater without actually being noticed. 

Tessellation for DX puts two concepts together.  Actual tessellation and displacement maps....in this post I will use the term points instead of the correct term vertices, this is mainly because I have found people can visual the word point instead of vertices better.
 
Actual tessellation for models doesn't do much.  It just adds extra points on the model (Tessellation doesn't move around those points...so tessellation in itself doesn't have much use, unless you manipulate the points after).
 
Displacement maps are basically a form of a texture.  Instead of being a type of texture you can see though, the "texture" contains height information.  The problem with displacement maps though is they can only manipulate the object if there are enough points...e.g. If you have just a square...if you make up that square using 4 points (the corners) and put on a displacement map you would get a square.  If you built a square with 5 points (4 corners and one in the center) and your displacement map had a high point in the center then you would create a pyramid.
 
Both technologies have been around of a while.  Displacement maps had the downside that you needed a very high polygon count surface to begin with (which just balloons the size of models)...and even if you do create a high poly surface, it would just be better to make the model high detailed.
Tessellation had the problem of creating a high resolution polygon in memory, but there wouldn't be any manipulation of it.
 
Tessellation for DX combines both together...tessellation creates a higher polygon object (as much as your video card can handle) and the displacement would manipulate the newly added points to add better detail to an object.
 
 
So in principle to add it to a game, the developers just need to create a displacement map and tell DX that the object is meant for tessellation....anyways hope this helps, I took a few liberties with it actually works but the general concept is there.

Come on man, be realistic. You're running a computer game on your computer, which is then being transcoded and submitted over your local network to another device. Your computer is just that, Steam OS can't magically turn it into something like NVidia's GRID.
 
That's more demanding than just running a game by itself. The GPU has to transcode the video and audio into a format compatible with the target device, which then needs to be sent to the networking card or chip or whatever then submitted across the local network to the target device If you're gaming on a portable device or Steam machine you are, assumedly, away from your computer - why would you need to make use of it anyway?  
Just think of it as turning your computer temporarily into a server. Just leave it there to do what it needs to do.

Should I upgrade my EVGA GTX 560 Ti 448 Classified ultra, still got 2 years left of warranty with it's 3 year warranty from EVGA? It's been great for me over the year, run games at 1080p at ultra or just need some minor tweaking with 40-60FPs constant. Should I upgrade this Holiday or wait till new gen cards are release? Also what should I do with my 560 Ti if I do upgrade, I wonder what you people do with yours and should I keep it for a souvenir for being my first ever graphics card and maybe use it as a dedicated PhysX card?

Here's a picture of my beauty:

 

Cynical comment incoming:
 
AMD releases something that should have existed pre-2010.  Should we celebrate something they should have done already?  Do we celebrate a mother who brags "heeey, I fed myy kiids!"  Do what you are supposed to do, and don't expect praise.  You will get none from me.

That's normal I have the same thing one of the cores will be running around 5-7*C hotter than the coolest core but that's normal. I have the same thing on my i7 2600K. As long as the delta temperatures aren't like 15*C plus or even 10*C plus then your CPU is just fine. :) Take at look at my temps the temperature difference is about the same as yours but my CPU runs a bit hotter but its sandy bridge. :)
 
 

I hope they go for 60p versus slightly higher visual fidelity.
 
Or better yet (crazy concept) let people choose like they can on PC!!!! It's basically a PC in there anyway...

How old is it, cause if it is old and if you haven't replace the thermal paste then yeah the thermal paste is old and worn out. Just simply watch a Linus video on how to clean and apply new thermal paste. Also there's a video on NCIXcom called "Thermal Management..." It's a great video to determine what's causing an overheat. The simple solution is just applying new thermal compound and see if that works and then if not then try something else like it says in the video. Hope this helps

I had the Zalman Z11 plus and it was the first case I have ever used for my first build. Have to say if you get the right power supply with thing cables like a Corsair PSU then the cable management will work really nicely but unfornately I had very bulky cable and short ones too so cable management was a complete nightmare. For the front intake fan filter it was terrible, the front bezel was scary to take off because it feels like I'm breaking it and the top mounted fans my God I don't know what Zalman was thinking because you have to remove the front bezel then with annoying clips on the inside which is near impossible to find in low light for the top bezel and the top bezel was connected to the front panel headers so it was impossible to work with it. For my personal opinion at first build its not much hassle but when it comes to cleaning its just awful. So in the long run the Zalman Z11 and Z9 (both has the exact same internal layout) isn't recommended. I upgraded mine to a Define R4. Plus the front and bottom intake filters are just fuss to remove and put back on because you have to bend it to get it under plastic clips and the PSU filter, it's barely a filter to me just a plastic square piece with relative large holes.Also again poor airflow when you only got a single intake fan in the front if you have a long PSU and you have no other points of intake.
Like you I was going to upgraded to the MS800 because it seemed like such a big upgrade. It has MUCH better way of accessing the filter, it seems like you don't need to remove the front bezel anymore and for the bottom it all comes out in one filter piece like most cases like from Corsair. BUT I am not sure about the top exhaust as I haven't done a lot of research but based on the pictures and research it seems solid to me and I am not sure about the cable management in the back but it looks like its an improvement. 
My other recommendation I can give (mind me I live in Canada and so I am not sure if they sell in Europe for you and they could be much cheaper for you)
Fractal Design Core 3000 - 56.58 Euros I converted it if it was here in Canada
Probably a Bitfenix Shinobi ATX - 60 Euros
Bitfenix Merc Beta 37.72 Euros
Bitfenix Otulaw 37.72 
Im sorry if its a lot from bitfenix but from you price point they were pretty much the Zalman
If you can stretch your budget maybe a Cooler Master CM storm 67.90
Again these cases are available in Canada not sure about you but I am pretty sure you have much more options. These are the ones I would go for with your budget but anyways good luck! 

The most emotional experience was with  Far Cry 3, when Vaas died I was really happy because I got my revenge but I became really sad when I realized that with Vaas dead the game got really boring. I became frustrated that the game began to repeat itself and the new enemy isn't as intriguing as Vaas. Anyways overall fun open world game just wish there was more stuff to do than just shoot and burn trees or grass. 

Drop some cash on an SSD. Honestly, it's one of the best bang-for-buck upgrades you can make.