Cyracus

My msi b450i's highest qvl is 3200, I'm running 3733mhz on my ram. 16GB should be fine for several more years.

It may be better to return the kit you recently purchased, sell the kit you already had, and get a 4 stick kit.

Ryzen typically gets optimal performance when the ram is running 3200-3800mhz with fclk set 1:1, it will run with ram at lower speed just fine, you can run ram faster with clocks desynced from fclk, but typically that gets worse performance. Cpu boosting isn't affected by ram, check thermals (exceeding 80ºC with stock boosting causes clocks to drop). Check ppt, edc, and tdc to make sure those aren't reaching cap and limiting performance. Also 4.6GHz is max single core boost, 4.2GHz is max all core boost (If my sources are correct)

two pins marked clrtc at the bottom center of mobo.

Since it's 5600 36-36-36-76 vs 6000 30-40-40-96, I'd go with the 5600 and OC it, as mentioned CL is only a small piece, and the other timings are roughly equivalent, I wouldn't expect a noticeable difference at xmp settings. I don't know anything about ddr5 ICs and what to look for though, so grain of salt and all.

Cheapest unit I've found that does voltage regulation, and sine wave output on battery power: https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp850pfclcd/ Is there anything else that does both the aforementioned things at a similar or cheaper price?

AMD boosting algorithm just throws voltage at the CPU resulting in high temps, especially at idle. I've found that static voltage often yields better performance than stock boosting while reducing temps. My 3600 runs 40ºC+ idle stock, but idles as low as 25ºC @4225MHz all core 1.288V (stock only hits 4150/4100MHz so I'm getting better performance and lower temps). I'd recommend starting under 1.3v vcore, manually set soc voltage (stock can raise it to unsafe levels, forget if this is memory OC only issues, but 1-1.2v, can perform better below the 1.2v recommended max), then change the cpu mult, save, and stress test (p95 pushes my temps over 80ºC, I still use it, unlike AMD stock boosting temps don't drop clocks with manual OC, blender is better for normie stability, OCCT, Realbench, Linpack. Don't use cinebench, it's too light to ferret out instability, I can throw an extra 100MHz leaving all other settings alone and cinebench will run happily while internet browsers are acting glitchy and real stress tests insta-fail).

Clock speed is only part of the equation. Ryzen 5000 saw a significant IPC (instructions per clock) increase, so even at slightly lower clocks the 5600 outperforms the 3600xt easily. Sucks that you got taken advantage of.

You could change the fans (I know that's a crap solution with how much the cooler cost, but it's all I got)

Could be a power issue with the outlet(s) in your room. A UPS can fix messy power from the outlet if that is the issue. You can test outlets with a multimeter, but be careful if you do or it may be a shockingly bad time. https://www.homestratosphere.com/how-to-test-an-electrical-outlet/

Run DDU and remove drivers, tick the option to prevent windows from installing display drivers, install drivers from Nvidia. Check thermals. The card shouldn't need a repaste I would think... If the problem's persisting, monitor frequency, could be safety mode kicking in for some reason preventing boosting. MSI afterburner is a good tool for monitoring gpu if you don't have a program that'll do it already. E: I wish I could help you, but I can't do that from here. Best of luck to you.

Didn't have a chance to use a weapon, they ambushed me, I had maybe half a second from him popping around the corner to getting peppered with punches with dudes stacked behind him. A weapon would've been great if they had chased me, and is definitely an avenue I'm looking down. Unfortunately no cameras anywhere nearby, so really the main thing I wish I had was a camera, thus my purpose here. I don't mean to be a dick, but if you cannot assist with my inquiry, I kindly request you just continue to another thread. I'm fine with a bicep mount or on my chest. Probably gonna use primarily if I'm out anywhere alone, more likely short trips than long adventures. If some asshat decides to attack me I can't stop it, but I want to make sure that I have video evidence to aid in their identification and capture (so can't neglect quality outright) I probably won't need vast amounts of storage, but expandable via micro sd or something might be nice

If downtime is not acceptable under any circumstances go with the d15. Even if the fans die the d15 will still provide cooling, when an aio pump dies you need a new cooler, it doesn't happen often, but it's a bummer when it does.

I was assaulted by a group of thugs in my neighborhood out of the blue (*I'll cover details below), unfortunately there was nobody else around to witness. I filed a police report. Yada yada. Wanna make sure I have good evidence to give the cops if anything like that happens again. I don't know much about body cams, but I'd like something that secures to me, durable of course, and big plus if the battery is replaceable. Details: I'm standing in a covered bus stop, playing a game on my phone, this guy I've never seen steps in, punches me in the face and starts teeing off, there's another guy behind him and a third with a 2x4. Fisty doesn't hit that hard. Idk if #2 hit me, focus was on #3 with the 2x4. I got away, they didn't chase. I ended up with a bum shoulder, a couple bruises, some scratches, and a sore ego... but it could've been worse.

Even if your local laws don't protect you from such bad practices, it's basically impossible to prove that a desktop tower has been opened, you won't hurt anything by unplugging your hdd (either cable) as long as the pc is off and you make sure the plug is oriented properly when reconnecting

It shouldn't hurt it, cpus have safety systems built in these days to protect from overheating (I mean it will probably hit tjmax but then should throttle itself)

For devices with embedded Li-ion batteries, since battery life degrades increasingly faster over ~4.2v, you should include the charge voltage at 100%. I stole this chart off the interwebs and will be using it as reference below. I know there are other chemistries of Li-ion, but all experience faster wear the higher their charged voltage Say we have 2 devices: Device A: 4000mah charge at 100% 4.25v Device B: 5000mah charge at 100% 4.35v All else being equal, while device B will start with a longer operating time per charge, by charging the cell to a higher voltage it would degrade at a significantly faster rate. They'd reach 100% capacity parity at ~100 charges, with device B rapidly getting worse from there. Batteries are considered end of life when total available capacity is 80% or less than rated battery capacity, with device B reaching that point in ~160 charge cycles, device A reaches that point in ~370 charge cycles.

Will not work. Needs to mount to the 4 points where the backplate comes through mobo

Yeah, that's the thing

Waterblock doesn't allow any twisting or wiggling, only possible to lift straight off. Am4 lever locking mechanism insufficient to keep cpu in socket. So I need it, but ain't spending $35 for it. So again, anyone know 1. if these really exist, and 2. If they're affordable anywhere.

I heard about these a while back, tried to find one yesterday and all I coud find besides news coverage was a $5.00 package from Gelid, just one problem, they want $30 for shipping... Do these things actually exist, and is there anywhere to get one at a reasonable price?

You have to change voltages to change frequency when not using xmp. This guide has good info https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4 OC Guide.md

Sounds like a bug I thought got ironed out. Disabling sleep/hybernation will prevent it. Don't know the proper fix... You aren't actually getting better performance, or running at higher frequencies, sorry.

use canned or compressed air to blow out any dust from inside the psu. The components inside the psu will typically hold power and can be fatal so as stated, don't remove/open the shell.

having the fans pull air through the rad is as effective as having fans push through the rad (JayzTwoCents has tested, I believe LTT has too)