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Steam
toasty6776
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
A Galaxy far far away
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Biography
Master of hypocrisy and half-knowledge
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Occupation
Student/Programmer
System
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CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
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Motherboard
Asus ROG Maximus VIII Ranger
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RAM
Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4 2x8GB @3000MHz
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GPU
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2
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Case
Fractal Design Define S
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Storage
Sandisk Ultra II 480GB
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PSU
EVGA Supernova 650GS
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Display(s)
Dell S2716DG, LG 27MP77HM-P
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Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S
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Keyboard
Corsair K70 LUX RGB with Cherry MX Browns
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Mouse
Corsair M65 Pro RGB
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Sound
Sennheiser HD598SR, Bose Companion 2 Series III
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Operating System
Windows 10
- PCPartPicker URL
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1,029 profile views
toasty6776's Achievements
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Iris's family system build for 4 users
toasty6776 replied to SGTechGamer's topic in New Builds and Planning
Not sure what your opinion on RGB is but I do quite like the white Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DIMMs -
In that case, you should certainly be fine pretty much regardless of the resolution (unless you're going 8k because that requires 2 DP cables) and refresh rate because your GPU won't be heavily loaded by those other panels. I personally use a Dell S2716DG which is 27" 1440p 144Hz G-Sync TN-Panel and I'm quite happy with it. I'd say 1440p 144Hz is the sweet spot for the 1080 especially if you have G-Sync because it's powerful enough to push high FPS in e-sports titles and because of G-Sync you can crank the details in AAA games and still get a good gaming experience. Like @jstudrawa already said, I wouldn't recommend getting 3 of the same panel if you won't be gaming in triple-screen mode very often since you're just wasting money there. I would, however, recommend buying 3 displays with the same resolution.
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- recommendations
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Logitech G703. Lies well in the hand, excellent wireless (used by many pro players).
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Do I understand correctly, that you want to game on those 3 displays in surround?
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- recommendations
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Have you set the control mode to voltage rather than PWM?
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I have 2 displays hooked up to my machine plus a super long cable running to my TV. What I'm trying to do is quickly switch between "Desk mode" and "Couch mode" so having a hotkey for toggling between both monitors on + TV off and only TV on. My intermediary solution is to have the HDMI to my TV unplugged while I'm at my desk and then plug it in when I want to use the TV. NVIDIA control panel then remembers the last state with this number of displays connected and turns off the monitors at my desk. So this works but I don't find it very elegant. I had the idea of getting an HDMI switch and rewiring it with a Raspberry Pi or an Arduino so I could have a single button to disconnect the HDMI connection to my TV (similar to the solution in this video. So that's my alternative idea but I'd prefer to do it through software since I don't really want to buy all the kit necessary to complete the hardware solution.
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New build powers on, but nothing displayed to screen.
toasty6776 replied to JiggyMcPeebles's topic in Troubleshooting
But even then, it shouldn't set off a thermal trip. It might give a post error but that should be a separate thing from a thermal shutdown. -
Yes, you can connect a 3-pin fan onto either a 3-pin or 4-pin connector. The notch in the connector will make it so you can't get it wrong.
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whats your favorite programing language
toasty6776 replied to Alexthenoobgamer101's topic in Programming
I don't know a whole lot of languages but out of the 3 or 4 I know, C# is my favourite because it beats the hell out of Java, assembler is just a huge pain in the butt and I find it a bit tedious to write in C as I prefer object-oriented languages. -
PCPartPicker part list: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/FbjBV6 Price breakdown by merchant: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/FbjBV6/by_merchant/ CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor (£121.98 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B450M-A Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£73.39 @ Box Limited) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£49.98 @ Aria PC) Storage: Crucial - BX500 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£17.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£36.18 @ Aria PC) Case: Phanteks - Eclipse P300 Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£50.37 @ CCL Computers) Power Supply: EVGA - B3 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£59.00) Total: £408.89 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-28 12:52 GMT+0000 EDIT: I realise this doesn't have a GPU, should be enough for light gaming imo.
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According to this, it releases today.
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I would recommend the 8700k over the 9700k since you get roughly equal gaming performance for a lower price. Especially if you OC the chip (which you admittedly can do with a 9700k as well but I still personally think the 8700k is a better value) For 1080p144 you should be alright with a 2070 especially if you don't feel the need to crank the settings. I have a 1080 which should be roughly equivalent in terms of performance to the 2070 and my card gives me about 70-100 FPS on Ultra in AAA games at 1440p. So if you're willing to step down in terms of graphics details and you're also playing at 1080p, I reckon you should be able to hit 144 fps. In terms of card manufacturer, I prefer EVGA but I have owned an MSI card before and that card was quite good as well.
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Laptop recommendation for College
toasty6776 replied to Toruro's topic in Laptops and Pre-Built Systems
First off: What is your budget and what sort of bad things have you heard about the MacBooks. I personally have used a Surface Book for the past two and a half years and I've been really quite happy with it (I study Computer Engineering) but you would lose quite a few of it's headline features if you installed Linux onto it so that might not be the best fit for you. Do you need Linux for anything specific or do you just want to create something macOS-like in terms of design? -
It would be helpful to know, what exactly your budget is. But right off the bat, I can tell you that the best thing you can do is getting an SSD. A 120GB (or Go since I suspect you're French) would be enough. Just keep your HDD but install Windows and all your programs onto the SSD. Your system will feel A LOT snappier and you can see from there if you feel the need to upgrade any other hardware.