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Karikiro

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Occupation
    Electronics, IT and Automation Engineering Student

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790k
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z87MX-D3H (rev.1)
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB DDR3-1600 CL9
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Radeon RX 580 8GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R4
  • Storage
    Patriot Viper VPN100 2TB NVMe SSD (BIOS mod required)
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650
  • Display(s)
    Acer GD245HQ 1080p @ 120Hz
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U12P SE2
  • Keyboard
    Sharkoon Shark Zone MK80 RGB
  • Mouse
    Ozone Radon 5k
  • Operating System
    Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit

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  1. Hi, I don't feel like making an account on a car forum so Off Topic it is. 1. Step: Locate and drill out the dimples in the sealing insert. Make sure not to penetrate the 3,5 mm drill beyond the thickness of the plastic as this will damage the unlocking mechanism of the barbs that hold the piece in place or possibly the cable harness. (Bohren Sie ein Loch in jedem der vier Vertiefungen des Kunststoffeinsatzes. Achten Sie daruaf, dass der 3,5 mm dicke Bohrer nicht tiefer als das Material eindringt, um Beschädigung des Entriegelungsmechanismus der Widerhaken, die den Einsatz in der Karosserie halten, oder des Kabelbaums zu vermeiden.) 2. Step: Insert into the drilled holes a rod such that the advancing side points away from the horizontal center of the insert. Once inserted about 2 cm push the rod's end you are holding away from the horizontal center of the insert. This unlocks the barb that hold the insert in place. Then pull on the insert away from the vehicle. Repeat this for all four holes. (Führen Sie einen biegefesten Stab in die gebohrten Löcher so ein, dass das führende Ende weg von der horizontalen Mitte des Einsatzes zeigt. Sobald der Stab etwa 2 cm eingeführt ist, drücken Sie die Seite des Stabes, die Sie in der Hand halten, weg von der horizontalen Mitte. Dies entrigelt den Widerhaken des Einsatzes. Ziehen Sie nun am Einsatz, um ein erneutes Einrasten zu vermeiden. Wiederholen Sie die Prozedur in allen vier Löchern.) 3. Step: Pull out the rear side of the insert first, then to the right and outwards to maneuver the hinge by the fender. (Ziehen Sie zuerst die hintere Seite des Einsatzes aus der Karosserie. Dann schieben Sie den Einsatz etwas nach hinten und außen, um das Scharnier hinter dem Kotflügel hervorzumanövrieren.) Step 4: Unplug the door switch and lock unit. (Trennen Sie den Anschlussstecker des Verriegelungsschalters.) Step 5: Gently lever on the three barbs of the charging indicator socket and lift it out. (Hebeln Sie vorsichtig die drei Widerhaken der Aufnahme der Ladeanzeige aus dem Weg, um sie zu entfernen.) Half Done Assembly is the revere of disassembly. (Einbau geschieht in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.)
  2. This router is known for it's poor NAS performance. The question for me was whether or not a native file system would improve performance and apparently it didn't. Normal file traffic i.e. copying files to and from the NAS is very slow as well. I also have no idea what a network share is. I have set up my laptop to synchronize folders with my main PC in Windows using the Microsoft Synchronization Center (Home Network Function). The Laptop is usually connected with WLAN to the router and my PC with powerline. Network speed between the two is rather quick, so I assume it is an artificial limit in the router's firmware to preserve performance for more important tasks. I am currently converting the video file from *.mkv to *.mp4 (h264) to see if that improves playback at all but that will take a while. Thank you for taking the time. Unfortunately, the different format didn't solve the problem. I think the only solution for me is to either reduce image quality or to invest in more recent or dedicated hardware. I am considering getting an Odroid HC1/HC2.
  3. This router is known for it's poor NAS performance. The question for me was whether or not a native file system would improve performance and apparently it didn't. Normal file traffic i.e. copying files to and from the NAS is very slow as well. I also have no idea what a network share is. I have set up my laptop to synchronize folders with my main PC in Windows using the Microsoft Synchronization Center (Home Network Function). The Laptop is usually connected with WLAN to the router and my PC with powerline. Network speed between the two is rather quick, so I assume it is an artificial limit in the router's firmware to preserve performance for more important tasks. I am currently converting the video file from *.mkv to *.mp4 (h264) to see if that improves playback at all but that will take a while. Thank you for taking the time. I have very limited access to the router so that is pretty much out of the question. (It is very "user friendly".) The client PC is fairly capable and the Corsair SSD that is connected to the router achieves 114MB/s when connected directly to the client with USB so I am sure the problem is with the router. (Edit: I checked and the PC is barely utilized during streaming.) As I mentioned to Mayaa the processor may be limited in terms of available overhead for the NAS services. The newer model (7590) is a lot faster which makes me think the NAS was an post-launch addition. Thank you for your time.
  4. Edit: Added test results for EXT2 format. Hi, I have done some testing I wanted to share for those who want to try this out. Goal I want to stream 1080p MKV-video files from an old HDD I had lying around that is connected to an AVM Fritz Box 7490. Issue When streaming the video stutters frequently. Idea Use a Linux native file system to improve performance, since the router's processing is the weak point. TLDR Result Use NTFS when on Windows. Neither EXT2 nor EXT3 offers any benefit. NAS Hardware Server: AVM Fritz Box 7490 Modem/Router (all stock) Storage: Corsair Force 60GB SSD with a generic SATA to USB 3.0 (USB 3.2 Gen 1) adapter (Samsung) Client My main PC: OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K (stock) MB: Gigabyte GA-Z87MX-D3H (rev.1) RAM: Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB DDR3-1600 CL9 Storage: SanDisk Extreme II 2.5" 480GB SSD Network Server and client are connected over a powerline network. Adapters: Devolo dLAN 1200+ Powerline (1,2 GBit/s rated speed; actual is approximately 38 MB/s or 304Mb/s) Testing The SSD is formatted seperately as EXT2 and EXT3 using the EaseUS partitioning software. Then in Ubuntu the video file is copied to the SSD. After that the drive is connected to the Fritz Box and testing is performed. For the third round the SSD is formatted in Windows as NTFS and the video is copied to the drive. It is then reconnected to the Fritz Box and testing is performed. The test consists of simply opening the video file in the VLC media player from client machine (Windows). The NAS provides the files on the SSD as a network drive. During playback of the first 35 seconds the network traffic is monitored using the Windows 7 Task Manager. The Fritz Box 7490 offers two USB 3.0 rated ports. These can be individually chosen to operate as USB 2.0 or 3.0. For the test multiple configurations are selected as shown in the logs. (Note that the number below the graph indicates the port configuration where "2" means USB 2.0 and "3" means USB 3.0. The number between the dashes is the used port and the number in parentheses is the unused port.) SSD formatted as EXT2 connected to rear connector of the Fritz Box SSD formatted as EXT2 connected to side connector of the Fritz Box SSD formatted as EXT3 connected to rear connector of the Fritz Box SSD formatted as EXT3 connected to side connector of the Fritz Box SSD formatted as NTFS connected to rear connector of the Fritz Box SSD formatted as NTFS connected to side connector of the Fritz Box Notes The Corsair Force 60GB SSD (NTFS) is capable of an average transfer rate of 114MB/s with the adapter used for the test and the same video file. This number was determined by copying the test video file from the SSD to the client machine over USB 3.0. Conclusion Performance with the EXT2 & EXT3 formatted drive was noticeably worse when compared to the NTFS tests. The video paused for longer times or more frequently. This is reflected in the transmission rates shown in the task manager. There the overall performance was better for the NTFS formatted drive. However, in all cases the video and audio paused sporadically degrading the watching experience to an unusable degree. Feel free to ask me questions regarding the test. However, I am no network engineer nor familiar with Linux so I can't answer questions about that. Thank you for reading.
  5. You can pretty much use any LED that physically fits. I would expect all modern mainboards to have a sufficient resistor already in place. One thing to note is that different colors of LEDs have a slightly different forward voltage so their brightness may vary a little. (more details) If you want to dimm the brightness to your liking you can add a resistor later but it wont be necessary for normal operation.
  6. Hi, I like quiet computers. Let's get started. First off: yes, I am aware that I am talking about a five years old GPU series but I found this interesting enough to share, so bear with me. The problem: As far as I am aware at least the 770, 780 & 780ti of Nvidia's GTX GPU series limit the minimum speed of the cooling fans to about 1000 RPM regardless of ambient conditions and software targets. This leads to unnecessary noise and wear in idle and low utilization. The goal: The minimum fanspeed is adjustable without impacting cooling capabilities under high load. Theory: A PC fan typically has three connections: ground, supply voltage & tacho signal. The first two supply power to the fan and by varying the voltage potential most fans will change their speed. The third indicates the speed of the the motor with multiple voltage pulses per revolution. Often there is a fourth connection called PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) which can be used to adjust the RPM while keeping a constant supply voltage. The mentioned Nvidia cards use four pin fans and - by detecting the fan speed at the third tacho connection - know when to maintain the appropriate PWM signal on the fourth pin to limit the minimum RPM. Since there's no getting into the BIOS easily without risking the card's life the tacho signal the card receives must be manipulated to allow lower fan speed. Concept: The fans themselves aren't easy to modify so an external device will be implemented - ideally allowing for swapping fans without modifications. This device will measure the fan's tacho signal, multiply it's frequency by an arbitrary number chosen by the user and output the modified signal with the resulting frequency. Implementation: An Arduino Nano will serve as the computing platform with supporting circuitry. Code: Please, do not redistribute without my explicit written permission! You are free to use this code as you please for any civil non-profit application. The code implementation in the Arduino IDE looks as follows: /* * (c) 2018 - Karikiro * * Do not remove this header. Do not redistribute. Not for use in commercial or military applications. * * This Code is provided as is and may contain errors. * You are applying it at your own risk. * I take no responsibility for any damage or injuries caused by it. */ #define PIN_F_IN 2 //pin number of the input signal #define PIN_F_OUT 9 //pin number of the output signal #define F_SYS 16000000 //system clock frequency in Hz #define UPDATE_TIME 500 //time delay in ms in which the input and output frequency is calculated and output frequency set #define AVERAGE_TIME 2000 //time over which the mean of the input frequency is calculated; this value MUST BE a multiple of UPDATE_TIME #define FREQUENCY_RATIO 2 //desired output frequency divided by input frequency unsigned long previous_timestamp = 0; //last stored timestamp in ms unsigned int icr1_val = 65535; //auxiliary variable to help dynamicly changing the Timer 1 frequency unsigned int f_in_count = 0; //current number of pulses of f_in since last reset unsigned int f_in_idx = 0; //array index for running average of f_in float f_in[AVERAGE_TIME / UPDATE_TIME] = {}; //measured input frequency in Hz float f_in_avg = 1; float f_out = 1; //output frequency in Hz void setupPins(){ pinMode(PIN_F_IN, INPUT); pinMode(PIN_F_OUT, OUTPUT); attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(PIN_F_IN), isrD2, FALLING); //attach the interrupt service routine 'isrD2' if 'PIN_F_IN' detects a FALLING edge } void setupTimer1(){ //Timer 1 will be responsible for providing the output frequency and will be configured as described in chapter 20.12.5 and shown in figure 20-9 on pages 166...168 of the datasheet. //Set Compare Output Mode (COM1xn) (P.171, T.20-5): Clear OC1A/OC1B on Compare Match when up-counting. Set OC1A/OC1B on Compare Match when down-counting. //Set Waveform Generation Mode (WGM1n) (P.171/172, T.20-6): Mode: 8 | Timer/Counter Mode of Operation: PWM, Phase and Frequency Correct | TOP: ICR1 | Update of OCR1x at: BOTTOM | TOV1 Flag Set on: BOTTOM //Set Prescaler (CS1n) (P.173, T.20-7): Prescaler is 64, therefore counting occurs every 64th I/O-clock TCCR1A |= _BV(COM1A1) | _BV(COM1B1); TCCR1A &= ~(_BV(COM1B0) | _BV(COM1A0) | _BV(WGM11) | _BV(WGM10)); TCCR1B |= _BV(WGM13) | _BV(CS11) | _BV(CS10); TCCR1B &= ~(_BV(WGM12) | _BV(CS12)); //'_BV(X)' is a MACRO and defined as '1 << X'. It shifts a '1' by 'X' places to the MSB (most significant Bit) } void setup(){ setupPins(); setupTimer1(); } void isrD2(){ f_in_count++; } void loop(){ if ((millis() - previous_timestamp) >= UPDATE_TIME || (millis() - previous_timestamp) < 0){ //Store Current Timestamp for Next Iteration previous_timestamp = millis(); //Calculate Current Input Frequency f_in[f_in_idx] = 1000.0 * f_in_count / (float)(UPDATE_TIME); //multiplying by 1000 to convert from ms of UPDATE_TIME to s //Reset Counter f_in_count = 0; //Shift Index for Array of Input Frequencies f_in_idx++; if (f_in_idx >= (AVERAGE_TIME / UPDATE_TIME)) f_in_idx = 0; //Calculate Average of Input Frequencies f_in_avg = 0; for (int i = 0; i < (AVERAGE_TIME / UPDATE_TIME); i++) f_in_avg += f_in[i]; f_in_avg /= (float)(AVERAGE_TIME / UPDATE_TIME); f_out = f_in_avg * (float)(FREQUENCY_RATIO); //Adapt Timer 1 noInterrupts(); //disable interrupts to ensure correct register values icr1_val = (unsigned int)((float)(F_SYS) / (128 * f_out)); //defines the PWM frequency of the output frequency and is calculated with: f_PWM = F_SYS / (2 * prescaler * TOP) with TOP being ICR1 => ICR1 = F_SYS / (2 * prescaler * f_PWM) ICR1 = icr1_val; OCR1A = icr1_val / 2; //defines the PWM duty cycle interrupts(); //enable interrupts again } } Pin 2 (D2) will be used to measure the input tacho signal of the fan because of it's interrupt capabilities. Pin 9 (D9) will with supporting circuitry provide the graphics card with the modified frequency because of it can be mapped to a timer. To allow for different Arduino platforms (those using Atmel's Atmega 328P micro controller) the system clock can be specified. Further, the interval time between updates of the output frequency can be set as well as an averaging interval time to suppress noise on the signal (which MUST BE a whole number multiple of the update time). Timer 1 will later provide the actual output signal via pin 9 and is set up accordingly as an frequency adjustable PWM timer. Now if a falling edge of the input tacho signal on the interrupt pin 2 (D2) occurs a counter is incremented immediately. (Exception: While the output time (Timer 1) is beeing configured interrupts are disabled.) Else the main loop() is run indefinitely: Using the Arduino's millis() function the following is executed periodically (this implementation bugs out after about 49,7 days with a single inconsistent interval but this mod really isn't meant to operate for anywhere near that long and the averaging will smooth that out anyway): The current millis() is stored for the next interval then the input tacho signal frequency is calculated using the interrupt counter of pin 2 (D2) which is reset right after and stored in an array containing some (in this exact code 4) previous values which are averaged and then fed into the timer 1 registers. At last the frequency counter is reset. Circuitry: To enable the Arduino Nano to measure and output the signals the following circuit is build: The Arduino Nano is attached to a striped prototyping PCB with a bit of double sided sticky tape and connected with jumper cables. The PCB is home to three four pin male pin headers for three fans, one four pin female pin header for the Arduino Nano, a transistor (Q1) with base resistor (RQ1), a pull up resistor (RZ1), a Zener diode (DZ) and a regular diode (DFW) (depicted as Schottky). Q1 is driven by pin 9 (D9) of the Arduino Nano via RQ1 and provides the open drain (collector) type output tacho signal to the graphics card. RZ1 is the pullup resistor for the input tacho signal of the fan which provides an open drain type signal. Since the Arduino Nano I am using is a 16MHz @ 5V variant DZ (a 5,1V Zener diode) clamps the signal voltage while the fan's tacho connection is floating. Lastly DFW is used as a free wheeling diode for fan spin down to protect the power supply from backfeeding. (probably not necessary but nice to have) Results: Measuring with an oscilloscope the following traces can be observed: Input Signal Output Signal Success! As is clearly visible (figuratively not literally because the pictures are pretty bad) the input frequency as shown in the top left corner of the TFT has doubled (for the provided code where FREQUENCY_RATIO was set to 2). This measured result is consistent with what MSI Afterburner reports at 100% fan speed target. MSI Afterburner without mod MSI Afterburner with mod The 500ms update interval is clearly visible. Also for some reason the fall time of the unmodified fan control is considerably longer than with the mod. Conclusion: It works. Would be nice to change the ratio externally but I can't be bothered. If you have any questions please just ask I'll gladly answer them. (Though I may take some time to respond - I am not exactly active in this site but I'll try.) Hope you enjoyed.
  7. To give this thread some kind of closure: I contacted the Gigabyte support to get further information: The answer came 3 days later suggesting to test each DIMM in each socket first and then if there weren't any problems to fill all slots one-by-one and test again with each module added. After testing that without success I went with a more bruteforce method: (almost) any combination possible. Which lead me to the now fully functional solution: The ver8.16 DIMMs must be inserted into the slots 1 & 2 in any order to function.
  8. The Vengeance RAM-kit is on the campatibility list. I've had two kits installed which is compatible as well. The only socket that could be faulty with the given behaviour is the CPU-socket. I inspected it and the CPU thoroughly and they seem fine. There is no excessive mounting preassure to cause lift-off. But either way I don't think there is an issue with the sockets, since different RAM works fine - as does the Vengeance RAM in a different board.
  9. I'm sorry for coming across as attention seeking. I couldn't figure out how to change the font size on mobile - I'm on PC now. The BIOS firmware is from 13. August 2014 and was reflashed onto the chip as an attempt to fix the issue. To me this looks like a power supply problem, but I don't understand why that would be the case. Another option is that the CPU somehow can't reach the full address space of the RAM-modules but I reseated the CPU and RAM and also every other connector on the mainboard without success.
  10. Edit 2: Solved Edit: Fixed the font size. Hi, I've got a problem with my PC and can't quite figure out what causes it. Helpful advice is much appreciated, but read my post completely first please. My hardware is the following: -CPU: Intel Core i5-4670k -MB: Gigabyte GA-Z87MX-D3H -RAM: Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB (DDR3-1600 CL9 1,5V) -GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 780 ti 3GB -Storage: SanDisk Extreme II 480GB -PSU: Seasonic X-650 I can reliably reproduce the following error, which depends on my RAM configuration: When all four DIMM-slots are populated the system doesn't post and continually powercycles probably applying default RAM settings to try to remove the error. When any one of the RAM-DIMMs is removed so that only three (or less) slots are populated, the system POSTs and boots without issues. The system has been running for half a year with all four RAM-modules before they were temporarily replaced with two of 8GB capacity each, 2133MHz clock, CL10-12-12-28 timings and 1,6V operating voltage for about two weeks. The afternoon I reverted to the four DIMMs the system POSTed and booted normally. On the next morning however said behaviour occured. I tried the following to remedy the issue, unfortunately to no avail: -cleaned and reseated RAM-DIMMs -cleaned and reseated CPU -cleared CMOS memory -reflashed BIOS -replaced BIOS battery What fixed the issue for me was to replace the DIMMs with four different ones of similar specifications (4x4GB, 1333MHz, CL9, 1,5V). I am not convinced that this is a permanent fix though, because the Vengeance DIMMs work in the computer I took my replacement RAM from.
  11. Hi, looks beautiful. However, I recommend for your next upgrade to replace the power supply with one of a reputable brand (Seasonic, Corsair, beQuiet, etc.; visit jonnyguru.com for reviews) and adequate power rating. Your current Chieftech unit might have been fine for no overclocks, but now your processor is likely to use up to double it's previous power and pushing a cheap PSU to it's limits might be a bad idea. What core voltage are you running your chip at btw?
  12. This looks so nice! I am really impressed by your handy work and the solutions you came up with. Also thank you for updating so frequently; it is a treat to watch and read. Keep it up!
  13. If by home you mean the building, I would say I prefer wooden and "natural" construction over the modern "sterile" look and especially over a fully automated house.
  14. Ah, ok. Thanks for clarifying. I am not really a fan of AIO, either, but that's because the pump-noise would actually make a difference in my system. I also like the simplicity of air-cooling.
  15. The new CPU-cooler makes such a huge difference. It looks so nice. Would you mind taking a picture from the side in daylight?
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