wbierman

That's a good idea, I hadn't considered that. I may do this if I can't find a suitable KVM. So far my google-fu has failed to find a suitable KVM.

I currently have one system running two monitors: an ASUS ROG PG278QR 144hz monitor and an ASUS PB287Q 4K monitor. I am considering adding a docking station for a work laptop as well as the ability to run at least one more desktop system with these monitors, keyboard, mouse, etc.. I am assuming that integrating the laptop into this will require some kind of thunderbolt 3 external GPU. I am looking for recommendations on KVM switches that will actually achieve 144hz and 4k (though not necessarily both in the same display) for at least two displays as well as a suitable external GPU that might allow me to effectively use these two displays with a laptop. Thank you in advance for your advice!

ASUS claims to have a 4K@144Hz display (the PG27UQ) coming out Q1 or Q2 this year. The active cable I linked above claims to support up to 4K@120Hz. I guess I should spend a bit of time searching to see if I can find another cable which will support 4K@144Hz, since I'm going to be spending a bit of money on the cable, I might as well make it reasonably future proof if it is comparably priced. I am very grateful for your useful and courteous replies. Thank you very much!

I see, thank you. They claim to support up to 100m, but it costs $1750 Since this is a DisplayPort 1.4 cable, does that mean that I would need to select a display which accepts a DisplayPort 1.4 signal? Edit: Related question, must the GPU also support DisplayPort 1.4 output?

I confess I did not expect much, but she was surprisingly helpful. Ironically, she cited a post on this forum claiming that the bandwidth I would need is roughly 12.7Gbps. That post is here: Incidentally, I was moments ago shown these active optical cables by DVIGear.com by their technical operations manager in an email: http://www.dvigear.com/cables-dp-aoc.html I'm not sure what the implications are, if any, for using an 'active' cable, and if my current hardware would support a DisplayPort 1.4 cable, but I am investigating that now.

I am considering replacing one of my 4K@60Hz displays with a 2560x1440@144Hz gaming display. I haven't selected a display yet because I am having difficulty finding a suitable cable. My computer is on the other side of my office in a closet where I have some exhaust fans and what-not setup. I currently have two of 7.5m DisplayPort 1.2 cables from DVIGear.com which have worked well for the 4K@60Hz. I sent them an email and they say that only their 5m cable would work for 2560x1440@144Hz. I went onto the online chat with StarTech.com and they say they have no cable that can do 2560x1440@144Hz. I'm not sure if it is relevant, but I currently have one GTX 980Ti, but would be willing to consider adding another GPU and/or upgrading my current one, if that would for whatever reason be required. Can anyone recommend a DisplayPort cable which is at least 7.5m (or about 25 feet) that can handle 2560x1440@144Hz? Edit: I am also curious how the bandwidth requirements are calculated based on desired resolution and refresh rate. For example, 4K@60Hz is 3840x2160 or 8,294,400 pixels, 60 times per second, or 497.664.000 pixels per second. Similarly, 2560x1440@144Hz would be 530,841,600 pixels per second, which is so close I can taste it! Not sure how that turns into Gbps, though. Assuming each pixel is 32 bit, 530,841,600 pixels per second means 15.82Gbps. Is that all I have to do for that calculation?

Sorry to necro yet again, but the temperature was not stable as the weeks went by. Some days it got up to close to 100 deg F. Therefore I ordered and installed an AC Infinity fan cooling solution intended for home theater systems. I directed the fans to exhaust hot air from the top of the closet into my attic, relying on suction to draw ambient air in through the louvers in the closet doors. Attached is a picture of the control panel and fan installation. It has been running for four days now and the temperature in the closet has consistently matched the ambient air temperature of the room.

Sorry to necro this thread. I just thought I'd post here for future readers with similar questions. I've used a 2U vertical wall mount rack to mount a CAT6 punch-down block and my Ubiquiti UniFI POE switch to the inner side wall of the closet. The remaining equipment was mounted to the back wall with their keyhole mounting brackets (and velcro strips where necessary). I ended up ordering this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1R0K68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it suits my needs. I was hoping to have the ability to record the temperature data to an SD card or some such thing so I could plot it over time and view trends, but I wasn't able to find an affordable tool to do this. With an average ambient temperature in the office of 75 deg F, the top of the closet has an average ambient temperature of 88 deg F. This is within the specs of all of my equipment and does not seem to be triggering thermal throttling or even fan usage for any of it. Therefore I do not plan to add any additional cooling solutions at this time. Thank you all for your advice!

Just as a follow up to this, I wonder if anyone can recommend a small electronic temperature gauge that can record the minimum/maximum temperature that it has seen since the last reset? It would greatly help with my experimentation.

I meant that it would be better from a sound level standpoint, as it would be further from people's ears if it is on the ceiling of the closet rather than the inside of a door. But I can probably rig up something like what you're saying to experiment with it. Thank you for the good idea. If anyone else has any other ideas, please keep them coming

I think if I were going to do a fan, wouldn't it be better to ventilate it into the attic? In either case I am skeptical that I could find one that can move enough air to be effective yet not audible.

Yes sorry I should have mentioned that. The lights are almost never on, but they are LED track lights. I can leave them on all day and they are barely warm.

Hello. First let me say that I realize that this may not be completely on-topic for this forum, however it seemed like the best fit of the choices I had available to me. Secondly, let me say thank you in advance for any advice anyone is willing to offer. I have a small closet in my office. I have attached a picture of it. At the bottom is my computer. At the top is my network equipment (a UPS, router, POE switch, and a VPN switch). Heat is sometimes an issue, especially for the networking equipment at the top. I am seeking advice for how to cool this closet. I am in Hawaii, so winter versus summer, and heater versus air conditioning are both irrelevant. The house is fairly well ventilated to the outside year round. We do not have heating or air conditioning. The ambient indoor temperature rarely leaves the range of 55-75 degrees F. I have a few ideas about how to solve this, listed here: I have a spare 4U vertical wall-mount rack which I was considering installing some equipment in. If I mount this, I would probably re-terminate my 15 or so ethernet cables in a rackmounted punch-down block. Right now they are terminated with male ends and go directly into a switch. Would it be wise not to fill all 4U of space? I could, for example, put one switch at slot 0, leave slot 1 empty, the second switch at slot 2, and then the punch down, thereby allowing airflow between the two switches The second switch is a Juniper VPN switch (which I use for a secure connection to my office LAN/VOIP). It has rack mounting hardware, but it is small and could also be wall mounted, away from the other devices. I don't really need the UPS up there. I have no real concept of how much heat they produce, if any. I just had room for it so I thought I might as well do it. I could replace it with a wall-mounted surge protector, or even a rack-mounted UPS if I install the above-mentioned wall-mount rack. Doing this would of course inhibit the ventilation situation of the other equipment in the rack. I have read that in general it is not a good idea to passively ventilate heat into the attic. There are fans available to force the air into the attic (or into ducting run in the attic), but they make noise. This would be right behind my head as I sit in my home office. Quiet is very important to the ambiance in my home. The computer of course produces a fair amount of heat. It is why I opted for ventilated closet doors. I used to have more noisy components to my PC. I actually ran two hoses through the wall to the outside of my house, and built a ventilated, sound-proof-foam-lined pine box which I mounted outside my house, containing a pump, reservoir and radiator, for a watercool system. My thinking was I could transfer both the heat and the noise outside. It actually worked very well, except the long horizontal run of the hoses to the outside made it very hard to purge the system. It ended up being too high maintenance. Any advice or brainstorming on what I can do to minimize the heat issue would be greatly appreciated! I will happily provide any other information that is requested. Aloha!

My vote would be for tomorrow at the latest! Thank you all.

I see. So do you think we may eventually see the smaller models?