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Posts posted by Katsunaka

  1. Yep. 


    Doesn't matter what the board supports if the CPU doesn't support it. If the CPU does support it, then the motherboard becomes the limiting factor. 


    Welcome to the crazy world of PC's, where it all makes sense to some engineer who's probably getting his ideas from aliens away.


  2. 2 minutes ago, Potato:3 said:

    If some don't then I could just play 16:9 with the black bars 

    Ive got 2 x34's and deal with the black bars. Although in movies, it's AMAZING. In games, it just sucks. I think I might just end up selling these monitors on eBay as used ones and going back to a flat screen style monitor. 

    Curved and Ultrawide was fun for a while, but now it's just a PITA.

  3. Yes, that works also..


    Find Ram on that list from a brand you like and whatever else(like a color you like, a budget friendly price) and use it.

    Asus says it'll work, it's the best way to find Ram.


    If your CPU doesn't support more than 1066mhz, then thats the speed the ram will run at. If you buy 1366 ram, but the CPU only runs 1066, it'll run at 1066.

  4. Go to Asus's site. 

    Find your motherboard on their site.

    Click Support, Not ASUS support, but the support link on the motherboard's page. 

    It'll bring you to a thing where you can download drivers, programs and such.

    Click Memory. Open the Memory Support list, and go from there.


    Also known as a QVL. It's ram Asus tested to work with your specific motherboard.


    EDIT: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A97_LE_R20/HelpDesk_QVL/

    Go there. Open This .. M5A_Series_DRAM_QVL_20140, Find Ram you like, on that list.

  5. I'd rather buy generic paste from Best buy than use mayo.


    Might as well complete the meal. Lettuce for hard drive trays, mayo for tim, wrap the wiring in thinly sliced lunch meat. Gatorade in the cooling loop, and bread for "breadboarding" it.


  6. @Mikius10001 Its going to be one of the other.  The case and GPU make the budget hard without going to some REALLY old hardware.


    AMD FX 6300 - 135 CDN

    Asus 970 Pro Gaming - 157 CDN

    Kingston HyperX 16GB DDR3 1866mhz - 84.50 CDN

    Sapphire RX480 - 410 CDN

    EVGA 600B PSU - 72.50 CDN

    WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm HD - 68.50 CDN


    Based off Amazon.ca's pricing its 927 bucks, No case. The CM Mastercase Pro 5 is too expensive for your budget. 


    I'm not an AMD person. Never built with their stuff at all. This is what I could find that fit the OP's budget. Someone else could probably do better, but it's roughly 760 US or 1000 CDN.


  7. Take that 750 and buy a Strix 1080.


    It just looks like a 980ti with a custom waterblock on it with a Bitspower fitting. There's no point in buying an overpriced 980ti when the 1080 is better and the same price. 


    If you really want and ROG build, don't forget the $500 US dollar Coolermaster Mastercase 5 ROG Edition for sale on CM's EU web store.

  8. I bought a Razer Mamba TE about 3 months ago to replace my dead MX518.  I bought it was content with it, now over the last 2 weeks it's been nothing but rage with this mouse.


    It wouldn't respond, doesn't work half the time. Now the palm rest LED doesn't work. All the wonderful Razer support team has done, is keep saying do the firmware update, well it's firmware is up to date, I've tried it across several PC's, in multiple ports and no fix.


    Today I finally fixed it. I taped some fire crackers to it, and lit them.  I don't even care about it anymore. Razer wants to try to say it's the firmware issue, it's more of a hardware issue than soft or firmware issue. I'm never buying another Razer product again. I only bought the mouse because after trying quite a few mouses out in my local microcenter, it was the one that fit the best, had only a few side buttons and was well reviewed online. 


    Every response I've got from Razer has been a copy and pasted response, no actual typed words. Just copy and paste this response into an email and hit send. 


    Before someone tries to say I spilled something on it, nope didn't get anything spilled on it. Wasn't dropped, thrown or slammed. It was either sitting on the desk being used or it was in my bag on the way over to a friends for some LAN stuff.


    Hell, the 518 took 10 times worse than what this mouse seen and never once had an issue. The Mamba TE is currently in pieces blown apart by fireworks in the bottom of the trash can. I'll be going back to Logitech peripherals from now on. 

  9. I own both.


    I've got well over 1k hours in Arma 3. It offers ALOT of different games within it's platform. Just look at Arma 3 Mods. There's DayZ, Wasteland, Life, and more. 


    Ark is just basically HD Minecraft with Dinos. I have almost 500 hours in Ark. I love both.


    The biggest drawback for Arma is, regardless of what mod your playing in the game, it's still Arma. It's still the same buttons, its still the same everything, just skinned differently. 


    The biggest drawback for Ark, is currently (just my opinion here) the Devs are more interested in stuffing Dino after Dino into the game. Not working on real issues with the game itself. Sometimes when you log in, in Ark, you fall through the floor. No biggie, takes a minute to get out.  But whats the Devs do every time they patch?  Here's MegaSuperDino and a hotfix for people with this issue that doesn't affect 90% of people. 


    I'd say get Arma and enjoy it. It'll probably give you more playtime. Plus it's not an Early Access game. It's a full fledged release. Find your a mod within Arma you want to play, and enjoy it.


    Just my opinion again, I feel Ark is going down the same road DayZ went down. DayZ kept giving players more and more guns. Without any real bug fixes, Ark is just giving more and more Dinos, without fixing stuff. 

  10. At a minimum, 


    the 24 pin, the EPS 8 pin, whatever cables for your GPU (either a 6 and 8 pin or 2 8 pins). The rest are up to you.

    I bought cables from Cablemod, since my sata cable is hidden I didn't get them. 


    I only bought the ones I just mentioned. Since the rest of my cables are hidden in the basement of my case anyway.

  11. 1 minute ago, revsilverspine said:

    Shelf life for a common CR2032 is 7 years. The CMOS power draw is next to insignificant, so it's safe to assume that a worst case scenario would be halving the CR2032's shelf life, taking it to 3.5 years. WHO THE HELL BUYS A 3.5 YEAR OLD BOARD?! WHO EVEN SELLS THOSE <____<

    Stuff does happen. Just because something's new doesn't mean it's the best or will last its intended lifetime.