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Epitome_Inc

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Everything posted by Epitome_Inc

  1. I have since found out that the secondary wires are sensing wires, so I don't need to worry about it. Since I can figure out how to delete this post altogether, I'll mark it as solved.
  2. Hi guys, I'm finally starting to work on custom-sleeved wires for a build I've been slowly doing over the past 3 years. The 24-pin connector goes to 28 pins on the PSU end. The stuff I'm seeing online (which seems to be dated) says I can just splice in the secondary wires fairly close to the PSU to avoid 'ugly' double wires at the 24-pin connector. I'm using 16 gauge wire for the cables, and the four wires I'm required to double are ground, +3.3v, +5v and +12v. Can 16 gauge handle that doubling for 80% of the length of the run? I have very little electronics experience, so this part really confounds me. If there's other info I'm missing, please let me know. Thanks!
  3. Ok, we looked at the tan in place of the cream and didn't really like it. I think we'll go with the third option, which got the most votes. Now to order all the plugs, wire, pins, etc. Thanks for the input, everyone!
  4. Yeah, I can see your point(s) about the cream. They do sell a tan which could work: https://www.canadaparacord.ca/tan-100-feet-550-lb-paracord
  5. Hey guys, I'm figuring out my custom cabling colour scheme for a build inside an antique radio cabinet. There will be Noctua fans and some copper accents. I came up with two of these, and my wife did one. I won't say which is which, we'll let the people decide. Thanks!
  6. Yeah, while not ALL of the screws are 100% necessary, if you have standouts behind the board that aren't lining up with holes, you could short something out. As was mentioned, reconfigure the standouts for E-ATX and try again. I haven't heard of a mobo IO shield not fitting in the slot when everything else is correct. Unless the case is super cheap? I'm not up on all the latest case manufacturers... I'm a desktop tech in an enterprise environment.
  7. You've tried every USB port? Even the onboard ones in the I/O on the back?
  8. While I haven't worked on an Inspiron before, we buy exclusively Dell desktops where I work. I would visit the Dell support site, enter your Service Tag, and make sure you've got all the latest audio drivers.
  9. Ok... things have changed a bit. My family sold our house and moved out a month ago. While clearing out the garage, we found that the radio cabinet had warped and split beyond repair. I was very upset, to say the least. But, I have a good friend (shoutout to the Dominator) who took pity on me and found a new radio cabinet that in my opinion looks even better, is in better shape, and is functional! It's a Canadian General Electric Co, model KM76. There's only minor damage to the cabinet that my buddy and I can fix pretty easily in his shop. I'm trying to find someone willing to purchase the working innards to fund some of the parts I'll need to buy for the build. If anyone knows any antique radio guys on the Canadian west coast please let me know. There's one on FB I'll be contacting today. Once we've both had our shots I'll work on it in Dom's shop. I need all new measurements and a rethink of the layout. But I think this will look gorgeous when it's finally done.
  10. I betcha thought I had given up! In the past 3 months I haven't gotten a lot done, but there is some progress. I've been working on rebuilding a 50cc scooter I bought. I've stripped the cabinet almost completely, there's just some cracks and crevices to clean out before I refinish. But the big update I wanted to share has to do with the custom hardware display I want to put into the front panel where the frequency gauges were. A HUGE shoutout to Jays2Cents for their video showing how to do this. I had almost given up on this idea, but it would seem that Aida64 Extreme has exactly what I need. I haven't sourced a proper screen yet (roughly 6" LCD w/ HDMI), and this isn't my final product. But it's a mostly done proof-of-concept. I've attached a picture of the original gauge, along with my test version that I put together in about 4 hours. I used their custom gauge option and created a gauge in Paint.net to show my GPU temp. I added the red area to show what's considered a danger zone for that card. There are 16 steps to each gauge, so I had to create 16 PNG images. It's hard to see at this scale, but the indicator needle has a bottom piece that changes angles as it goes across the gauge to give it a 3D look. I just copied it for the other gauges, but I'll adjust them as necessary for the final build. Let me know what you think.
  11. Yes, I think you're right with the resistor value. I found that it looks like yellow-purple-black-black-red. An online calculator tells me that's 470 ohms. The power supplies I got from the scrap pile at work show as 12v 2.5A and 12v 2A. I'm still utterly lost on the calculations from everyone above, but it looks to me like 2A would be overkill for these. Correct me if I'm wrong (which is likely).
  12. I don't have a datasheet for them unfortunately. Is there a way to determine the necessary info using a multimeter?
  13. Oh wow. This is why I asked. I got these LEDs in orange (which doesn't show on the site anymore) https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01J74ZEAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 "TrendBox 1 Pack (100 Bulbs) 5mm Orange LED Flash Light (Steady) 18cm 12V DC Pre-Wired Round Top Bulb Lamp for DIY Car Boat Toys Flashing Parties" No other specs are given on the page. I know different colors have different specs, but that's about it.
  14. Meh, I've got like... 50 of them and only need 6. I'll just go for it. Thanks again!
  15. So basically, I can just connect up the wires, and if that's done properly I'll be good. I'll give that a try this weekend. Thanks guys, that was super helpful!
  16. Hi guys, Apologies in advance if I'm asking a dumb question or don't have a crucial piece of info here. I'm working on an antique radio cabinet PC build, and will be wiring four to six orange LEDs on one circuit. I've already got the LEDs on hand. They're 12v, 18cm pre-wired. I have near-zero experience with electronics. I can solder wires, but don't know the theory at all. For testing purposes, I've got two old power supplies, both are 12v output. One is 2.5a and one is 2a. Eventually, the lights will be wired into a PC power supply 12v rail. I have no idea how many amps that puts out. Is 2a or 2.5a too much for that many LEDs? Do I need some resistors for long-term installation? Should I do these in series or parallel? Will that still be correct once I wire them into my PC power supply? Thanks!
  17. Here's a link to my ongoing build. One of my initial posts shows my plans for the cooling setup. Two upper exhaust fans, two fans pulling in through the front fabric (acting as filters) and two drawing from the bottom (with filters added). https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1181105-antique-radio-cabinet-pc-build/
  18. Quick update: I've been super busy with work, so not alot has gotten done. But I did finish cleaning out the inside of the cabinet, glued/clamped the cabinet to fix a couple cracks, and planed and cut some wood to act as the upper and lower ends of the inner cabinet cavity. I need to strip and refinish the cabinet next, along with a half dozen electronics and programming projects as part of this.
  19. My data speed isn't super important to me. I'm work in IT and am on wifi most of the time. I'm quite happy at PM for now, but I'll check out the other providers every few months and see what the market's like. We're with Shaw for our home internet because I got a good deal through work connections. Now that they have mobile too, I may talk to my rep in a while and see if they can compete w/ PM.
  20. Thanks! I'll make sure it's the right brick. I wouldn't have thought of that. My Public Mobile account is $19/mo including 2GB data, after my auto-pay and referrals. I see Koodo's entry-level BYOP is $30/mo with only 1GB data, so that's half the data for more money. And looking at their phones, to outright purchase the Note 10+ is over $1700 CAD.
  21. Hey guys, I'm pulling the trigger on buying a cell phone outright for the first time ever. I wanted to get out of the horrible cycle of being tied to a provider because of my phone financing, so I've kept my Moto Z2 Play for an extra year (since switching to Public Mobile) and have been saving that monthly amount towards a new phone. I've settled on the OnePlus 8 (12GB/256GB version) and saw that they're on for a good deal on Bestbuy.ca (via a 3rd-party seller, Swiftronics Canada). Is there anything I should be aware of buying a phone this way? Thanks!
  22. I'm using them all in the build (except one that's clearly broken). But I did look them all up. At least one is worth about $70.
  23. Yes, I'll do up a wooden panel to go in there with fabric on the outside and a couple large holes for fans on the inside. The paint drawing in my first post shows how I want the fan setup to be. Thanks for the feedback!
  24. Ok, got a bunch more accomplished today. Hooray for stat holidays! I've already disassembled the electronics tray, removing all the components. Today I: Finished removing the old solder. Some of it was really thick and required a small propane torch to get off. I'll post pics of all the parts I removed once I clean them up. Drilled out the rivets and removed a couple mounts from the tray as well in preparation for sanding and priming, which I also did (pic attached). Removed the interior veneer panels since they were both warped, and one of them caused the top joint to split (pic attached).I'll glue/clamp that back together after I've stripped it in a few weeks. Drilled out the blank pins on the bottom of the vacuum tubes to 7/32 so the 5mm orange LEDs I'm ordering will fit up in there. Hopefuly they shine through into the glass well enough. Yesterday I made life-size cardboard replicas of the motherboard and power supply for test fitting. I have also ordered the open bench to put inside the radio, and it should be here in a couple days. It has a power supply mount included so I'll see if it will work to mount the power supply to the electronics tray as I planned.
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