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DrMikeNZ

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Posts posted by DrMikeNZ

  1. 39 minutes ago, airacepro said:

    It is currently summer time. Room temp is 24 degrees Celcius. The radiator is currently set to exhaust in a pull configuration. Basically, at the top of my 450D I have the two fans so they are visible outside the case and then the radiator mounted to those for ease of cleaning. 

     

    Currently, the air does not seem to get warm at all and even when idling, the air coming out of my rear 120mm fan and the radiator feels to be the same temperature.

    I should also mention when I took the cooler out, I gave the whole thing a bit of a shake and could hear water sloshing around. My guess is that some coolant evaporated?

    There will always be some sloshing, I have never seen an AIO that had completely displaced all of the air in the loop with the coolant. Does it feel/sound like it is more air or more water? If the air from the radiator isn't getting warm then the cooler may need to be replaced.

    Double check that the pump RPM readback in the BIOS is actually for the pump. It might be worth installing Corsair Link if you haven't already to double check in there.

     

    If the radiator is laying horizontally mounted at the top of the case exhausting upwards then a typical air pocket in the loop would spread out in the top of the radiator and have minimal overall effect. If air got into the pump, the pump will often be unable to displace it, giving the loop a shake with the radiator at the top can help displace an air bubble and prime the pump. This would likely only be a solution if the cooler had stopped working properly due to the air being moved into the pump when the cooler was removed for cleaning, and not likely to help if it was faulty beforehand.

     

    If the cooler is within its warranty period it would help to contact Corsair to request an RMA if you haven't already.

  2. Is it summer or winter where you are, what is the ambient temperature?

    Is the radiator an intake or exhaust on the case, and do the graphics card(s) exhaust their heat out the back of the case or into the case?

     

     

    I have had a large number of AIO coolers fail over the years. Even if the pump is running it is not a guarantee that the water is flowing properly, or that the cooler is able to efficiently conduct the heat. How quickly does the air exhausting from the radiator take to heat up after the stress test starts?

    If the air exhausting from the radiator is cold, then the cooler will either need to be remounted, or replaced. If the air exhausting from the radiator is taking a long time to get warm then the cooler might need to be replaced.

     

    The most common issue I have seen with AIO coolers is oxidation of the heat blocks creating an insulating layer between the CPU and the water. This can result in increased idle and peak thermals.

    Oxidation on the heat block and radiator can be dislodged by the moving water and accumulate at restrictions in the loop and eventually block the water flow. This can further reduce the efficiency of the cooler.

    A less common problem that I have seen in a couple of AIO coolers is water evaporation. While the AIO coolers are sealed loops, the water can slowly pass through the rubber tubing, this evaporation process is accelerated if CPU temperatures are kept above 60°C for extended periods of time. Generally this should not be an issue until about 3-5 years though.

  3. 2 minutes ago, Imbellis said:

    Do you guys think that the manufacturers are lying?

    Yes.

    There isn't the best standardisation on how measurements are taken, or whether or not the measurements are even performed with calibrated test tools, and there is no accreditation authority for this.

    A range of dBA and CFM is typically used on PWM fans, where they are designed to have the fan speed controlled.

    In my experience the Corsair fans that I have used have all been around 10-20dB louder than the manufacturer claim (possibly they had tested at 10m rather than 1m).

  4. 10 minutes ago, Draydince said:

    I haven't tried that yet, I was really hoping on getting the full 3200 as I've read most people are walling out at 29 with this board and RAM combo, so I was relieved that I actually got my full 32. Assuming I was able to achieve a 4ghz overclock, do you think there would be more performance in 3.8ghz with 3200 RAM or 4ghz with slower ram? A lot of people are raving about how imperative it is for Ryzen to run as high speed ram as possible, so I just took it to heart.

    It really depends on your workload, in all of the applications I run on my R7 1700, RAM has made no difference. I get the same performance with the RAM at stock JEDEC 2133CL15, or overclocked to 3333CL14. However, if there is a lot of cross core communication with the workload, for example a physic engine computation in an un-optimised game, then the infinity fabric can cause bottlenecks which the RAM clock increase can alleviate.

    I would just stick with 3.8GHz. If your cooler can handle it and you are comfortable then you could increase you cpu voltage to push it a little further, although with Ryzen once you hit the wall you typically need a significant power increase for an insignificant performance boost.

  5. I use a lot of programs that heavily utilise AVX2 instructions, which Ryzen requires 2 cycles to complete and thus have relatively halved performance. Although, I am not aware of any specific programs that run on Intel and not on AMD, software would have to be pretty poorly coded to not work on AMD hardware. Is there an alternative software package for the task?

  6. The chance of there being an issue is very small, although it is best to always have a plan in case something goes wrong.

    Personally, if my water cooling loop leaked and killed everything in the system it would be pretty sad, although I have several spare computers to use in the downtime and have contingency budget set aside to replace it all.

    2 minutes ago, charbel1011 said:

    To be honest with you im frustrated i have the i7 6700k and the phantek ph tc14pe and when i builded my computer from 1 year ago it was perfect the temps were 26c at idle and while gaming around 50c-60c max now i dont know what happened all i did from a while is bios update and that was it for changes. And i did update my windows to creator version and that was it. My idle temps now are 31c and while gaming 70c like i dont understand what happened

    Consider replacing the thermal paste, and/or try undervolting it.

  7. I personally use a 3200CL14 kit running at 3333CL14. In my workloads it made zero difference compared to 2133CL15, but in several games (not all) you will notice a small improvement, I personally wouldn't consider the benefit worth the cost. Depending on your luck with silicon lottery though, you may not even get the rated speed out of the RAM due to the IMC on the CPU or poor RAM overclocking still present on some motherboards.

  8. Are you putting the system under load when you are checking the clock speed? Make sure the windows power profile is set to high performance.

    Try increasing vcore to 1.3-1.35V.

     

    1 minute ago, Constantin said:

    It is way to early to OC a Ryzen CPU, let them first fix the constant contability issues that are for ever in AMD.

    if I see a stable OC in AMD CPU it will be in the far future (imo)

    How many weeks does a system need to be running at under full load to call it stable?

    The only crashes I get on my Ryzen system are have been traced to driver failures related to the killer network card on the motherboard, and it is typically 3-4 weeks between crashes.

  9. When the system crashed, did it create a dump file? If it did, try checking it with a diagnostic tool such as bluescreenview to see if it can help identify the root cause.

    It is possible that a background process or driver has a bug which is causing the issue, finding what program it is and uninstalling it, or reinstalling the drivers would be a more long term solution than changing the page file size.

     

    Run memtest86 as @RadiatingLight said.

  10. On 8/16/2017 at 6:55 PM, buildcompactcomputer said:

    1 - what are all the computer specs needed for chrome with 100-1000+ tabs to run smoothly?

    8g ram on win10 is not enough, need 16g ram

    opening lots of tabs makes computer very slow -- for a long long time..

    what are the specs to resolve all these problems

    2 - would using chrome on win10 or chromeos make any signficant difference or no?

    3 - are there any key tests to run on the current computer (and to test on future new computer to make sure all is working stable)? to see what's up with chrome?

    It doesn't really matter how many tabs are open, it depends on what is in the tabs.

    I typically would have 400+ tabs open in chrome at any one moment at work, don't have any issues on an i7 3770 with 8GB RAM.

  11. 1 minute ago, ZM Fong said:

    It's true but the VRAM is 3GB not 6GB on this model

    The Lenovo website has the $977.99 base model Y720 as having 6GB VRAM. It only has a HDD, 8GB RAM, and a 1080p panel.

    Tiny battery considering the components, pretty average overall.

  12. 48 minutes ago, sarggames said:

    STOCK

    Use HWinfo to read what the clock speeds on each of the cores and temperature are when under load.

     

    41 minutes ago, Billy_Mays said:

    Ryzen loves fast ram speeds so you need to OC them

    Ram speed has next to no impact on cinebench performance. While is is a good idea for gaming to have fast RAM, if cinebench scores are low the issue is elsewhere.

  13. 1 hour ago, lfcvfddvredline said:

    Wondering if the CPU is damaged or the lanes around it as I did have to put a lot more force onto the board than I would've liked to get the No.1 screw to screw in. The no 2 & 3 aren't screwed in as they won't reach.

    That sounds like the CPU wasn't aligned in the socket properly.

     

    Asus used a similar mounting tool to guide CPUs into sockets on some of the LGA2011v3 X99 boards, small defects in the mounting bracket often resulted in incorrect mounting pressure and made it more difficult to install the CPU. I would not have expected TR4 to have these issues, but it could be a similar problem.

     

     

  14. Just now, unknownmiscreant said:

    I wasn't aware such a mode existed. Do you just mean windowed, at native monitor resolution?

    Fullscreen windowed is a mode that most games (not all) have and is different to windowed or fullscreen. It creates a borderless window on the screen. It looks the same as fullscreen, however the OS doesn't unload applications in the background. This can be particularly useful on multi-monitor configurations helping with smoothing out alt tabbing, and sometimes tearing.

  15. Are there any error LEDs visible on the motherboard when it crashes?

    Does it crash running CPU stress tests such as prime95 or cinebench?

    Was the OS freshly installed, or was the boot drive transferred from the old to new computer?

     

    Try reinstalling the GPU drivers fresh, uninstall the old drivers in safe mode with DDU.

    If that doesn't work, run memtest86 overnight.

  16. 1 minute ago, whistleblower52 said:

    (READ PREVIOUS TOPIC ON MY CRASHING GPU BEFORE CONTINUING)

    Do you really expect people to go out of their way to track down your previous topic to read it?

     

    A faulty power connection could result in unstable power delivery, crashes, and damaged components.

    High temps and clock speed at idle is usually due to the GPU not actually idle, either driver bug or background processes using the GPU.

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