ThatsNoMoon

Ah, didn't scroll down that far. My bad. What does it mean if it has an iCloud account on it? Will it only work with that iCloud account? Still seems pretty anecdotal. I would steer away from $20 screens as well, I'm just saying it's not certainly a waste of money, op's probably not trying to make an original iPhone here. Oh I know it's cheap, I'm just not convinced that automatically makes it a worthless piece of shit.

How do you know it's an iCloud locked board? I'm not saying it can't be, or that you should definitely trust the seller when they say it's unlocked, I'm just curious. And just because it's cheap, doesn't mean it will certainly be a piece of shit, unless you're an expert on buying individual iPhone parts off of eBay.

Well if you read between the lines, I'm thinking about the Modmic, which is $50, but I would like to find a cheaper alternative. $0-$50.

Hey guys, I'm looking to improve my voice setup (which consists of headphones and a crappy, tiny, cheap headset around my neck for a microphone), and I'd like suggestions for standalone mics. I know about the Modmic, but I'd prefer if I could get something a little cheaper. A desktop mic would be fine, as long as it doesn't pick up too much background noise. Right now I have the JVC HA-RX700's (I know, not that great, but they were cheap and they're comfortable, and I'm not a stickler for audio quality.) and those are fine for me, which is why I'd rather get a standalone mic, just for cost and the fact that I already have a pair of headphones I know I like.

I edited my post. $120 if you don't feel like reading.

Good point. Also, thanks!

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out with a quandary I've been having. I think I've decided to spend what little pocket money I have (About $120, I'm 15) on a mechanical keyboard, as I'm getting tired of this $5 membrane one and I'd like to make an investment into something that will last a long time (THIS IS IMPORTANT). I'd like a mechanical keyboard with no backlighting, cherry mx blue key switches (preferably, unless another reliable switch is presented, one that I can use o-rings with), I would prefer a tenkeyless or a 60% sized board, and most importantly it needs to be very reliable. I don't want to have to buy another keyboard for a very long time. That's it! I have very little expectations of the aesthetics of whatever keyboard it is, and backlighting is not a priority at all, as I think it will only make my final purchase more expensive. Thanks!

I'm using a generic Acer keyboard (Very similar to https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-KU-0833-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B005EOWBHC ) I want a new keyboard because I'm using a generic Acer keyboard (Very similar to https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-KU-0833-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B005EOWBHC )

If you want the maximum amount of performance for $300 definitely wait for a new $300 card from either Nvidia or AMD.

Hello, good members of LTT Forums... I'm having very strange and annoying problems with a new router (e.g. I'm typing this on my android tablet instead of my desktop). Our Devices and their status: My Desktop (ethernet) - internet cuts out very often but is acceptable when it works. Download speeds spike at about 1MB/s and then slowly fall down to zero, then spike back up My Laptop (wifi) - Same as my desktop, except slower because it's on wifi Dad's desktop (ethernet) - Same as my desktop, except download speeds remain a constant 2 MB/s or so Mom's laptop (wifi) - Internet works fine in every way 8 android devices (wifi) - Internet works fine in every way The only wifi radios for me and my dad's desktops are 2.4Ghz and my laptop is also 2.4Ghz only. All of the desktops and laptops are Windows 10 or 7 When plugged into our cable modem, my dad's desktop's internet is a constant 2 MB/s with no problems Our router is a Linksys 1900ACS so I would be suprised if it was that Our previous router was a Linksys EA6100 that consistently disconnected android devices, but windows devices were fine Our router before that was a Linksys wrt54gl that CONSTANTLY had to be power cycled And our ISP is Midco We're running out of variables other than the router, but I don't understand why that would be a bottleneck. Any help would be appreciated!

I'd like the keyboard because I need the experience of a mechanical keyboard. And my deathstalker makes an annoying whining noise.

(Keep in mind I'm not an expert) I hope you knew what you were doing when undervolting your CPU. It obviously needs a certain amount of voltage to do... anything meaningful...

He's one of those people that posts in these threads with "have you tried turning it off and on"

So after a while of just watching Linus' videos, I actually took some of his suggestions to heart, and downloaded 4 pieces of software. CPU-Z, GPU-Z, MSI Afterburner, and CPUID HWMonitor. Immediately I realized I have problems. Even at idle, just after booting the computer, my CPU is running at 70C. This sounded fine to me until I realized that some computers run at 70C on load. It runs at 85-90 degrees watching a youtube video. TL;DR My cpu runs at almost 90C just running a youtube video. I'd like cheap cooling suggestions. CPU: i5-2500 (not overclocked(yet)) GPU: GTX 750ti Current cooling: stock intel cooler (I know, I thought it was adaquate), 120mm rear exhaust fan, 140mm top exhaust fan. I would LIKE to spend less than 60USD on a new cpu cooler and have it be quiet and effective but I don't want to be super demanding. Priorities are price and performance.

Thanks for pointing out my mistake in the MHz of my RAM guys.. learn something new everyday! As ApolloX75 says, CPU-Z says it's 800MHz which means it's definitely 1600MHz.