Jump to content

kieran3296

Member
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by kieran3296

  1. So i have an Asus U57A (running windows 7), which has had a broken screen for a very long time, however it was used with an external monitor for a very long time via the VGA port, however after a decent while of not being used. The system will boot and when enter is pressed the system seems to restart until enter is pressed again a while later - whilst pushing the screen there as a glimpse of the windows log in screen with a dialogue box with the options yes/no, however no matter if i press left or right before enter, it still does not output to the external monitor. I dont necessarily need to fix any issue outside of the output to the monitor, i have tried using windows key + P, and FN + F3, F5, F8 and F9 - none giving any results - is there any way to force safe boot to an external screen? this doesnt seem to be hardware related as the cables and monitor work with other VGA outputs, just not this laptop. Please help!
  2. I recently upgraded to the MSI gaming m7 with an intel 7600K and G.Skill Trident Z RGB RAM. its been a great choice so far since games that i struggled with are now running smoothly (since they were usually CPU bottlenecked). However ive come across what may be a GIGANTIC issue. so a month or two back i had to sent a Trident Z stick back as all the RGB zones died, i thought nothing of it and assumed it was just an unlucky stick. however having replaced it, the new stick has died in exactly the same way. all RGB zones dead, yet the stick does work fine. moreover now my USB ports do not provide power to my headset and mouse LEDs when shutdown (something i couldnt seem to change but it didnt bother me).

    now im just worried, if G.Skill offers me a 2nd replacement stick then what should i look at to see if the mobo is shorting out or broken somewhere? i dont want to end up losing more parts.

    - something to note that i cannot 100% be certain of is that both times the sticks have died the PC was left in sleep mode for a decent chunk of time, normally i use the PC daily. (this recent time i went away so i left it on sleep for near enough 2 days) in sleep mode the RGB zones on the Trident Z kits do NOT turn off. 

  3. ive been using realtek on my AMD system with a FX8320 and MSI 990FXA and had bass management enabled in-software to ensure my 7.1 headphones were nice to listen with. today I upgraded to the MSI gaming M7 Z270 and an Intel 7600K and having just finished installing all my drivers, the realtek software wont open, I have uninstalled it and re-installed the lastest version. I have gone to playback devices and there is no advance option for bass management and I have dug through the files. Not 1 single application will open In the driver folder besides the installation one. I saw a thread mentioning that it must be in the boot devices so I checked than and its in there too. I'm pretty desperate now, so any help is appreciated.

  4. So ive had my 970 for just around a year now and for most of its lifespan ive had an overclock using MSI afterburner. The overclock has:

    mV +19

    power limit 105%

    core clock: +200

    memory clock +110

    it took me a while to stabalise initially but it has been stable all this time and its just today started artifacting on some games. It is exactly the same style of artifacting i encountered when my OC pushed my card too far (e.g. +230Mhz core clock increase) Im just worried i fried some parts of the GPU since its been this way so long. Cooling wise as far as i know the card was kept consistently below 75 degrees (C) and its been incredibly stable up till now. As we speak i just had the video driver crash error. Once again an error i only encountered when my OC pushed too hard. I doubt it is a power feed error. I am using a EVGA 850 nova PSU with a relatively low power build. 

     

    does anyone have some advice on how to remedy this besides "turn the OC down"? (which ill will test if helps and update this post) im really worried since i was saving for a CPU upgrade and really dont want to have to replace a 970 because i fucked it.

     

    UPDATE: Yes it does seem that removing the OC and re-booting solves the issue. I assume the artifacting is the GPU showing its age then? My question from before still stands as i will apply a rather light OC from now on since all my games were optimised for the OCd 970. 

    UPDATE X2: some games appear to be running the same if not, better? Im extreemely confused. Perhaps it was thermal throttling this entire time?

  5. 13 minutes ago, xvantok said:

    Get a independently powered USB hub for cheap online and just plug them into that - I had the opposite problem with my mouse as it would stay on when I wanted it off.

    e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-3-0-Plug/dp/B00E0NH7DQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1480894515&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+usb+hub

    Would that not cause input lag of some sort? Just wondering seeing as i do play competitive games a lot

  6. 21 minutes ago, Shiv78 said:

    Try going to BIOS and setting USB ports to always on if that's an option. Look in device manager as well.

    Running on the MSI 990-FXA board and i have:

     

    USB Controller: enabled

    XHCI Hand-Off: enabled

    EHCI Hand-Off: enabled

    Legacy USB support: enabled

    Onboard USB 3.0 Controller: enabled

     

    im unsure of which to change just incase i make an irreversible change. In device manager the USB ports are all set to allow power after shutdown

     

    edit: i have checked all my USB ports and my K30 and G502 are set to not be turned off to save power under the 'power management' tab in device manager. Still no luck

  7. So i lookef at a solution to this a while ago but never got a real answer. Basically i love having a red glow to my room, even at night.  And having got the corsair K30 raptor and the Logitech G502 spectrum for the purpose of matching that colour scheme, i would love to have my mouse and keyboard glow even when i am away from my system. 

     

    The real info:

     

    in the past my original G502 proteus core would glow after shutdown and in sleep mode, the k30 however would only activate the backlight momentarily after a keypress. I just want my new G502 spectrum and my K30 being supplied power all the time. Its that simple. My razer tiamat 7.1s LEDs glow when the system is off (however they use the rear USB ports while my mouse and keyboard can only be in the front ports for the time being)

     

    any help is appreciated 

  8. ok, so i recently got the xbox elite controller for the sake of a 'be all end all' solution to having a controller for my PC. its not been a great start if im honest. first of all my PC tried to install the new firmware onto the controller, which immediately made it unable to contact my PC and then the firmware update could not be completed because the Xbox accessories software would not detect a controller to update. i finally got that fixed by updating it with a friends xbox one. all that aside i now have an issue in game with the controller. it initially worked on the game redout 100% no problem and i was very happy. the issue came when i played elite dangerous and need for speed (2015). the controller would for some unexplained reason hold the button i pressed and just refuse any other inputs until i unplugged it and then plugged it back in again. in elite dangerous i would get about a minute of playtime and then it would keep my ship flying in a spiralling motion, when unplugged and plugged back in again it worked for another minute. with need for speed it was far worse. after 2 minutes of solid gameplay the controller would hold the button down (usually the accelerator) whenever i unplugged and plugged it back in again. these games are basically unplayable and i need a solution.

    Edit: this is happening in redout now too. so it appears to be a software issue, not a game issue.

  9. 11 hours ago, iShad said:

    Virtual surround is done through software and works on any headphones, both the Sennheiser headsets are reshelled hd558/598 if I remember correctly with a mic thrown in and marked up price.

    I cant find the hd600s on sale and to be honest i expect they will need an amp to use to their full potential. I think ill use the pc373d, seeing as they use USB for the connection i dont think they will have issues like needing an amp to boost the power. Unless you stronly agree i think ill do this...

  10. 3 hours ago, iShad said:

    To be honest, neither. The hd600 is on sale right now for $234 on Adorama, I would much rather get that than their gaming lineups with a clip-on mic.

    I like the idea of an inline mic plus 7.1 surround sound to be honest... Plus theyre a bit excessive

  11. 50 minutes ago, KaminKevCrew said:

    You likely won't need to worry about that stuff. At the very least, I'd wait until you get the headphones. If they aren't loud enough, then go out and get an amp. If the audio is scratchy, then get a dac/amp. 

     

    I know that there are various audio applications that use something called a digital pre amp. I would see if there is one available that would be system wide. I don't know of one off hand, but then again, I've never actually looked for one before.

    PC 373D VS Game Zero. Which headset? 

  12. 2 hours ago, rhyseyness said:

    Agree with this, and posting to reiterate because too many people spread the wrong information.

    A DAC/amp will often not improve your listening experience UNLESS you have a very old or very shit motherboard.

    Hope this helps :)

     

    3 hours ago, Aytex said:

    Highest I would spend on a "gaming 7.1 headset" is the sennheiser game one/game zero's 

     

    I've tried the pc363d's myself and I find them too similar to the game series

     

     

    Im pretty sold on the game zeros (and WILL be buying them soon enough, right now im saving for a monitor) but at that level do i bother worrying about soundcards, external DACs etc? Or will my motherboard still give me the best ill need. 

     

    - also is there a software way of boosting my volume? Like i said, i want more volume from my tiamats for the time being.

  13. Hey guys, before i start i knooow the razer tiamat 7.1 isnt a great headset but at the time i wanted 7.1 surround with a mic built in for the sake of ease of life. I am considering buying a soundcard (namely the xonar dx) just to push what the headset can do to its maximum. I want a small boost in volume mainly and i understand that the soundcard will overall improove performance regardless. Is this all the right way to go or am i missing something? 

    One final thing is what pair of headphones can i buy to replace the tiamat 7.1s? Id go up to £200 (whatever that is on dollars) on a pair, but i do really like the use of 7.1 surround. You can suggest a mic and headset below, i just want a rough idea of what to get

×