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About ScaryLarry38

  • Title
  • Birthday 1994-01-11

Contact Methods

  • Discord
  • Steam
  • Battle.net

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 2700X
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    16gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 3666Mhz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1080
  • Case
    Corsair 200r
  • Storage
    500 GB HDD / 2 TB HDD
  • PSU
    500W EVGA
  • Display(s)
    Main : LG Ultrawide @ 2560 x 1080 25 inch Second : Acer @ 1600 x 900 21.3 inch
  • Cooling
    Ryzen Wraith Spire cooler
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 LUX rgb
  • Mouse
    Corsair Scimitar pro
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. So I've been looking across various sites, Amazon, BestBuy, Walmart, even Target, trying to find a great deal on a 1440p 34" Ultrawide with anything over 100hz. I currently have a 27" ultrawide at 1080p and 60hz. And of course I want a upgrade. Preferably a monitor under $500, if it does exist. I have seen some float around $350 but they have 60hz, or they have everything listed above, but have 8ms response time, which doesn't sound ideal. So has anyone seen any good deals on a 1440p, 34" 100hz+ monitor?
  2. So just recently I broke my Galaxy s8+'s display after two full years of no scratches, and it was in its case too! So yeah the screen is completely spiderwebbed and its bugging me to the point where I feel as though I need a new phone. However my predicament is that my phone is on a 30 month plan (its been 24 months already) so there is still a payout of about $250 if I want to upgrade. So this initial fee limits my options quite a bit because originally I just wanted to finance a Galaxy s10 for 24 or 30 months. But then I saw the massive price of $1000 USD, and as a college student I really don't have the financial leeway to actually buy a galaxy s10 ontop of the $250 upgrade fee. So my options are limited. I was looking at OnePlus 6T, fantastic phone, for only about $579, or I could buy an unlocked Google Pixel 3 XL (Certified Refurbished) off amazon for about $659. I am already leaning towards to the 6T because of its great software and flagship grade features, and I have heard problems about the Pixel 3's software, but I am also sure that most of them are resolved by now anyway. So basically, should I get the Pixel 3 XL with its great camera's and also the fact that everything from Google Drive, Google Photos, Docs, Sheets, (I use all of these frequently) and all that jazz work beautifully with it, or get the 6T for about $100 less. Anyone who has had either phone, feel free to pitch in your 2 cents.
  3. So basically we had just built this pc with a new cpu, Ryzen 5 2600x, with an ASUS ROG Strix B450 motherboard, all brand new. It was all hooked up, all the cables properly connected, but when we went to go turn it on it did not start. This is strange because the front panel IO connectors are all in the right place based on the manual, and the ethernet cord is even lighting up on the motherboard, an indication that it is receiving power. I have tried putting the power switch IO connector into every single io connector pin slot, tried the switch, and nothing. Maybe its the internal PSU power switch? The case is the corsair crystal 570X.
  4. So i'm in the market for a new gpu, and since the RTX 2080 was announced i've noticed that there are a lot of used gtx 1080s and the price for a new one is dropping significantly. So im looking to buy a 1080, but im worried it would be overkill for my two 1080p 60Hz ultrawide monitors and I don't want screen tearing. So my question is, couldn't I just increase the resolution in game to say 1440p or a higher ultrawide monitor to make the image look smoother and to work my gpu harder? Or would the scaling be messed up
  5. Im probably just gonna get a 1080, and if the 1170 is out when I buy a gpu, which I doubt, then ill grab that one
  6. So i've been planning on building a new gaming pc that can also be used as a workstation (gonna have a ryzen 7 2700x w/ 16 gbs of 3000 ram). The only problem is the graphics card. I want a high end card and I've been eyeing a gtx 1080 for a while now, but now with the recent news of the "confirming" that the 1180 will be released around August 30th makes me wonder if I should just wait for the that and the extra 200$ that comes with the price. The age old question of should I wait for the 1180 or 1170? or just grab a 1080. Also im only gonna be gaming on two 1080p 75hz ultrawide monitors, so I think I would be fine with a 1080, any second opinions?
  7. So im planning on buying a AOC i2769Vm from Amazon, which is a 27 inch 1080p monitor. Before I do this I have a question. My brother had bought two Asus 24 inch 1080p monitors and those are beautiful, but I was wondering if the extra 3 inches of diagonal width would make the picture look grainy because of the resolution, like is it enough to still enjoy a 27 inch monitor? Would it ruin the experience and should I just get a 1440p 27 inch monitor instead for another 100 - 150$? If so point me to another 1440p 27 inch for a good price, looking no more than 250$, I wanna run dual monitor and I don't want to spend all of my money on monitors. Thanks in advance Monitor :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLZ04VW/ref=psdc_1292115011_rv_t1_B01A0ZRRCI#customerReviews
  8. So I just put together a brand new system, everything is brand new except for the gpu (750 tI) Its all said and done, turns on, but no post. We already have taken out the gpu so that is not the problem, we tried resetting the cmos with a screwdriver, not sure if it did the trick but was attempted. Not sure what is going wrong here. Any ideas? any help?
  9. So I've had this hard drive with my OS on it for about 6 years. Every piece around this hard drive has been replaced over these six years. So its basically in a whole new pc. I'm saving up for a entirely new pc in the coming months, and this one is on its last legs. Constant OS crashes. Takes forever to start up (this has been a thing for three years). Sometimes windows explorer crashes and the entire screen goes black with an error message that windows explorer has crashed. Sometimes when it crashes loading a game that is too tasking on the hard drive, when I go to CTRL + ALT + DEL that crashes and gives me a black screen with an error box that windows security options has crashed. I would like some solutions, maybe a program that would help me clean it up? make it last just a little longer and not have it die in the coming months or it become unusable due to hard drive failures. Ive heard of CCleaner but I am skeptical because its a third party app that seems just a little sketch.
  10. Yeah that is probably what I am gonna do, just gonna wait for the monitor to come in tho, just to make sure it is not posting
  11. So I had just built a computer for my brother from scratch, and since we want to play Sea of Thieves together, I had got him a ryzen 3 2200g because gpu prices are outrageous now. So I assembled it all together, and then when I turn it on, it all lights up, like fans run, the eclipse p400s is a beautiful case and all. But on my motherboard, the MSI b350m gaming pro, the cpu "EZ debug" light is on. Now I know there is a bios update for the motherboards for the new ryzen apus, and I havent hooked up a monitor to it yet so I don't know if it posts, it might not because it does not detect the cpu. But if it does not post, which is a possibility, how would I go about updating the bios so it doesn't give me the cpu debug light? any ideas? I was thinking bring it to a pc repair shop like microcenter, or bestbuy? I have already attempted to reset the CMOS and Bios with a screwdriver (doing the whole jumping thing with the pins) but to no difference. Need really any help, anyone else build a ryzen apu system and have a solution? like is it as simple as just plugging a monitor in and it posting? (I still don't know if it posts, the monitor is coming later tonight)
  12. I've also tried that, it does not recognize the drive and wants me to reformat
  13. Yeah It has the original letter I had assigned it way back when
  14. So ive been using an external 2TB hard drive from seagate for the past two years now and it has worked with no issues. Until now, the entire drive seems corrupted and in windows it does not show the compacity or the amount used, just blank with the name of the hard drive and whenever you click on it to open it up, it prompts you to format the drive. It was just working earlier today, about 30 minutes ago from writing this. Fortunately I don't need the 800 Gbs that I used on it, the only thing I need on the hard drive is a folder that I kept passwords / important stuff in, which is only about 100 mbs. Any one have any programs? ways? to just get that one folder off of the corrupted drive so I can reformat it?