Pachuca

If you want to reduce the temps just have your fans blowing the hot air out of the case instead of into it. That would reduce the temps a lot more than delidding your cpu.

If you want to reduce the temps just have your fans blowing the hot air out of the case instead of into it. That would reduce the temps a lot more than delidding your cpu.

alright thanks for the info

They look exactly the same. Currently only their 200mm fan and 120mm NF-A12x15s are using the new LCP. Expect the rest of the fans sometime in 2018 probably late 2018.

Yes... in 10 years.

Resource Tuner is another one.
But last time i checked, this one had really bad reviews.

In my experience the h110i has far better performance, but it is more expensive too. I am sitting at a comfortable max temp of 65c with 4.0ghz 6800k and a gtx 1080 oc'd @ 76c under sythetic loads (with stock fans @ 900rpm that is), with h100i, my temps were around 15 to 20 degrees higher (ek vardar fans  @ 900 rpm), perhaps my h100i unit was faulty.
 
Judging your hardware setup, you have no need for h110i cooling power. The h100 v2 or similar will save you money and space inside your chassis. The h110i is more useful when doing heavier overclocks on something like 7700k or a higher tdp processor.
 
Either way you can't really go wrong here.

Logitech MX Master, Bit pricey lemme see if i can find something else. 

CrystalDiskInfo

xeon e5 1603  v3 or e5 2603 v3
 
that way you get all the lanes and ites even cheaper.

Oh man the RGB I could set up for two grand. I'd literally make RGB underpants! THEY KEEP YOUR JUNK IN ONE PLACE. IN RGB!

Dust is generally not a problem for the fans unless it's really bad--which shouldn't be the case when using filters.
If there are only intakes through filters, dust is usually kept to a minimum. Exhaust should be just enough for keep cooling in check without overpowering the intakes and pulling dust through unfiltered openings. I haven't cleaned my system of dust in months and the only dust visible is at the front next to the filters and settling dust at the top of the case.

No. He. Doesn't. His rig is running in between that i5 750@3.6ghz and a STOCK 4790k and is actually closer to that i5. The issue is somewhere so stop being stupid.

He does exist!

yes.

yes.

Okay, so I just finished up my first custom loop build, and here's what I can say:
1. I have a 240 for both a cpu and a gpu, and while it is okay, I would wholly recommend you use a 360 rad like you said you can.
2. Buy extra tubing, you will fuck up
3. Distilled water is $1.00 at your local grocery shop, primochill tubing comes with a bio nuke, but if not, pick up PT nuke to keep your system bio free
4. For the aluminium loop, EKWB just released an aluminum kit if you so choose, heres this one https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-kit-a240g 
5. Here is the parts list I made prior to my loop, I'd use it as a guide imho https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XQs4-VchN2TjPXgYb-tfbxNJm67LgFNTyLS2RyaYbEA/edit?usp=sharing  

would you list what you have in your system?

would you list what you have in your system?

To be blunt no its not worth the money or time for a custom loop. Custom loop it for people who consider this a hobby and don't expect a ROI (return on investment) and what a frustrating hobbit is. But if your serious about jumping off i can personal say the reward is worth it just to say my rig is costume water cooled. 
Link to EK's AL loop  https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-fluid-gaming-sets-new-standard-for-water-cooling/

No benefits beyond bragging rights, when you build you first loop just do a basic CPU and GPU build to get your feet wet.

I used a 120 AIO. Currently the temps are similar, but its must more "sleek" this way, which is what I wanted. If you plan to OC, then you would want 240 rads for both the cpu and gpu, or, as it sounds, a 360 and a 120.

build your own 

would you list what you have in your system?

Thanks so so so so much xoxo <3