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Lord Sephington

Member
  • Content Count

    129
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Lord Sephington

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1985-07-01

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Anything electronic, drawing tattoo's
  • Biography
    Jack of all trades master of none....
  • Occupation
    Full time dad part time tinkerer

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 2700
  • Motherboard
    Asus prime B450-PLUS
  • RAM
    16gb corsair vengeance DDR4 2666 (2x8gb)
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 OC
  • Case
    Silverstone Redline RL05 (red/black)
  • Storage
    1Tb WD blue SN550 NVME, 1Tb Dell enterprise 7200
  • PSU
    EVGA W1 600 watt
  • Display(s)
    40" sony bravia 1080p, acer ed273 27 va 75hz monitor
  • Cooling
    Deepcool Gammaxx GT rgb cooler, 5 deepcool RF 120mm RGB fans
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 MK2 (with pudding keycaps)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G203 (gen 2) Lightsync RGB
  • Sound
    HyperX cloud II headphones (black and red) with neewer NW-800 condenser mic
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 home 64bit

Recent Profile Visitors

1,112 profile views
  1. well hopefully you can get set replaced with something that works, hopefully the place you bought it from has decent customer support and just swaps them out for you.
  2. i had this issue with a set of corsair vengeance memory, when it said hardware reserved it meant that one of my sticks was faulty. even though windows detected the full 16gb it left me with 7.96gb ram usable. sent back ram and got a new kit and it worked fine after that. so from what ive read it may be a fulty stick or maybe even a faulty slot on the motherboard.
  3. Either try twisting a little harder a few times to try jiggle it free, or worst case scenario, use a razor/stanley blade to try slice between cpu and heatsink it will come off that way 100% just obviously be careful and dont go too wild. but good luck and i hope you get them separated soon!
  4. It is safe to plug the connector back in (just make sure to power off system 1st) all rgb needs some form of power to work. i have an msi mag forge 100m case which has an rgb hub and that does the same thing needs SATA power and you can either daisychain fans/rgb strips together and control it from button on front of case, or connect it via rgb header on mobo and use software to control it that way. it all just depends on what software you are going to use (aura, mystic light and so on) and if the fans/strips are compatible with the software or not.
  5. sadly i cannot find the ISO layout ones anymore. the closest i can find are these ones https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZBVTWHP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 not sure on quality and unsure if they cover all keys you want.
  6. I bought set of hyperx caps from amazon, saw some cheaper no named ones but reviews were kind of sketch as the finish on them were a little rough so decided to go with the hyperx ones as its a brand i like and use for my headset and also my gaming chair. well worth the £25 i paid for them as makes the keyboard a center piece of my setup now
  7. For me i have recently upgraded to a corsair K70 MK2, i used to use a logitech G213 prodigy and i like it alot but after 3-4 months the spacebar died on me, i made a choice (a bad one at that) and replaced it with a razer cynosa lite which i had for all of 24 hours before a prompt return happened with it, as in my opinion it was the worst keyboard i have ever used. i got better typing experience from extreme budget no named membrane keyboards costing £5. But after upgrading to this corsair i am happy to say that im loving it so far. i got it with cherry mx reds and swapped the normal keycaps for "pudding" caps to brighten things up a little more, making it so much easier to type and play in darker room. its just a shame that corsair dont sell pudding caps that are 100% compatible, as 4 of the keys are standard corsair keys due to bottom row layout. well worth the £150 i spent in total!
  8. i owned the headset you mentioned, the mic is a tiny nub on the left earcup. one word of warning with the headset though be prepared for alot of people to moan/shout at you because of it as the mic picks up sounds you hear very very easily and it became so much of an issue for me i ended up getting rid of it and switching to hyperx cloud 2's. your milage may vary but just be warned that i can become an issue in the longrun.
  9. you dont need a gpu for autocad so something like the gt 710 would be fine as it will display in HD as its technically just a display adapter, so things like web browsing and maybe 720p youtube should be fine.
  10. does the 2Tb drive have an OS on it? as it could be a legacy driver stopping it being detected by system (MBR or GPT partition) also is secure boot an option to disable on you BIOS at all? im grasping at straws but these are some ideas that may be cause of issue
  11. I find that oil based acrylic paint is another good way to do something like that. my attempt is a little messy as i was rushing a little, but im sure with a steady hand you can make whatever it is you want to look good.
  12. I have looked into a signage shop and custom vinyl stickers but both option for me cost as much as the case alone (£55+) I will look into trying to make my own vinyl stencil from the outline and etch it myself, thank you for the suggestion
  13. without a doubt, the 2060 is like 90%+ better than the rx 470 so if you have the cash i would do it
  14. hey guys, im looking for some advice on what is best to do to etch/engrave the design i have put in the picture on my side panel. what would be best method to make the design as i want it to kind of pick up the red led's that shine in my case? (silverstone redline RL05) Im good at freehand drawing but this will be my 1st time attempting to do a design on acrylic and i dont want to mess it up and ruin the side panel, if you have any pointers/suggestions please let me know
  15. did you try to format that highlighted drive? if so how is that drive connected to your motherboard? is it an m.2 drive or is it via SATA cable? as all i can see on that error is that it may be a faulty SATA cable, or the 2nd drive is causing an issue with installation so you would have to unplug the 2nd drive and see if it helps with installing windows. Either that or a long shot is that your drive you want to install windows 10 onto is formatted to the wrong file type. for UEFI bios it needs to be formatted in GPT format, for traditional BIOS it need to be formatted in MBR (legacy) so depending on your motherboard you may have to have a mess around with a program called Rufus USB as that will allow you to take the windows 10 ISO image and put it onto your usb drive via GPT or MBR format. like i said this is a longshot but it may the reason why you cannot install wondows. (sorry for late replay too but time difference and working hours)
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