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Pesukarhu

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Everything posted by Pesukarhu

  1. I found this software, but haven't tried it myself. Seems to be the thing you're looking for. https://github.com/terrymacdonald/DisplayMagician
  2. Pump is probably running at some idle speed. Is it possible to control with the 3-pin fan cable mentioned as tach output in the manual? Set the fan header it is plugged in to dc-control mode as it is not pwm.
  3. Are you still using the cooler with broken temp sensor? If so, will it run without the usb plugged in as a "dumb" cooler? The cooler would be the prime suspect here since it was the first thing to have problems. I also remember having weird instability with older intel cpus when the cooler wasnt mounted properly, cpu pins not making proper contact. Mounting hardware still good? You could also try windows 10 to see if the same problems happen there.
  4. I still use pulseaudio on the work pc. Works fine for listening to internet radio. For the home pc i followed the instructions on arch wiki, it was a drop-in replacement. Pavuaudio still works for volume control etc. qpwgraph is useful for routing audio in weird ways should that be needed.
  5. I couldnt figure out if there even is an option to filter specifically enough - however asus has these really convenient "catalogues": https://www.asus.com/microsite/motherboard/AMD-AM5-X670-B650/b650/download/ASUS-B650-Series-Specs.pdf You can see that the B650-creator is the only b650 board from asus with dual x8 slots. It does seem like a good option, and not stupidly expensive.
  6. I use arch linux at home, linux mint at work. Mint is way easier to get up and running, however installing niche software is easier on arch since someone will have made an AUR package for it... I have also installed centos on some production machines at work. Less packages are easily available so i dont recommend it for home use. I dont even know why we use it. One of my coworkers uses gentoo so it could be "worse" i suppose. Arch has broken a few times after updating, once even needing a live usb to fix. On the other hand, updates with bugfixes are available very quickly. Mint has been reliable and less scary to install updates. At this point, installing windows updates is scarier I use cinnamon as the desktop environment, and it has its problems. I still prefer it since it is quite windows-like and familiar. Sometimes certain apps cause everything except the mouse cursor to freeze. Changing to a console tty and killing the offending app usually fixes it without closing other apps. Also, one of the reasons i changed to pipewire is easyeffects - having a functional audio compressor is very nice.
  7. The 6800 seems to be around the same performance as a 2080ti, which only had pcie 3.0 x16. Based on this, there shouldnt be any performance limitation when running the 6800 at pcie 4.0 x8. The speed doubles with each generation, so you only need half the lanes when using a newer generation. The 1070ti should be just fine with 8 lanes, which it can use at 3.0 speeds. So you want two x16 slots that are running at x8. The cheapest X670 board i found with them was 540€ For intel a Z790 with the slots the cheapest was 570€. For refence, my X570 board was on sale for 220€ one year ago, regular price was 250€. I actually dont know what to recommend, maybe get a regular mobo and upgrade the windows gpu later to one that supports pcie 4.0? The 1070 will work and game even with 4 lanes, just wont reach max performance in all scenarios. It depends very much on the game if there even is any performance loss.
  8. I have been using primarily linux for 2,5 years now, with virtualized windows 10 for gaming. My specs are: 3900X overclocked, 32GB DDR4 ram, ASUS PRIME X570-PRO mobo, custom loop water cooling for cpu, 1060 6gb for linux, 2060 super for windows, two usb 3.0 cards for windows, 10gbe nic for connecting to nas, 2TB nvme ssd (pcie 3.0), 1TB sata ssd, 750W seasonic PSU, custom case, two 50" 4k TVs as monitors (i like big text, and do more work than gaming) Things to note: -I previously had a motherboard which only had 4 lanes to the second pcie x16 slot. This was noticeably limiting the performance of the 2060 super, since it only supports pcie 3.0. Current mobo is "SLI compatible" and runs the two pcie x16 slots in x8 + x8 which solves the problem. So you will probably need a X670 motherboard, or a secondary gpu that supports pcie 4. (3.0 at x8 = 4.0 at x4) -Rather annoyingly the card in the top slot is always the primary gpu, and while you can configure xorg to use the second card for linux the primary GPU wouldnt display anything when attached to a VM. It was detected, but windows could not use it. There may be ways to fix/workaround, i could not find them. -The top GPU will likely be starved for air unless the bottom GPU is mounted vertically with a riser. I modified a rather large old case to support vertical mounting a second GPU while providing sufficient airflow to it. There is around 30mm between the side panel and the GPU, which seems to be enough. Airflow in the case is going bottom-to-top, with the cpu radiator outside on the top of the case. -Highly recommend a dedicated usb controller for windows, the VR-compatible pcie-cards are less than 30€. I have two because the first one did not work well with my valve index and i had space for two cards. I got them from amazon.de -I have 4 usbs on the front panel, 2 for linux and 2 for windows. This has been exactly enough in my experience. There are 6 more for windows on the back of the pc, and however many the mobo has for linux. -A cheap usb "switch" is used for mouse+keyboard. The non-mechanical ones seem to work better. Cost direct from china is something like 10-15€. I am currently using a 2in, 4out model. -I use two inputs on the TVs for switching displays. I fortunately have an older remote with a dedicated HDMI button, so i just need to push one button to switch between linux and windows. Looking glass is cool, but i was too lazy to try setting it up. -There is something not-smooth about using VR in the virtualized windows. Not sure what it is. Using native windows is better for VR applications. Although i think i played ETS2 in vr on linux and it was running stably. Of course a 1060 isnt fast enough so it was potato quality visually. -I could not get pulseaudio to cooperate with QEMU/KVM and used a usb audio card instead for windows. I use an external mixer anyways so this was not a problem for me. -Pulseaudio in general has only given me problems, I have been using pipewire instead for over a year now and it has gone smoothly after initial configuration. -I did measure the power consumption under full load, but i forget what it was. I think i was almost disappointed by how low it was, though. -I use samba to share folders between linux and windows. This is not optimal and i wanted to try other things but got lazy when looking into it. Other options seemed rather complicated for simultaneous access. This took a while to write, hopefully it is even partially useful I can provide more details on the running config tomorrow if needed. Your upgrade seems reasonable, i would recommend a motherboard with better suited pcie though.
  9. Row numbers being blue tells me you have a filter enabled. There should be dropdown menus on the cells on the title (first) row of the range being filtered where you can choose which values will be hidden/visible.
  10. Old optiplexes are picky about booting from usb, try another usb drive. Older drives are more likely to work.
  11. I have had a T570 for a year now. It is very close to the P51s (same manual) and i assume the P51 is close as well. I have had no hardware issues with it. Battery life is great with the dual (internal 32Wh, external 72Wh) batteries. I think that is a good price, at least with how expensive thinkpads (and memory) are in general. They are well-built machines. Only thing that i find interesting that you only have 1 year carry-in warranty. I got 3 years on-site (for "free") with my 1500€ T570 with the option to extend to 5 years!
  12. I have a T40 and a T41 Both work, i have chargers for both and a dock as well. The bigger charger also works as a car charger. The T41 feels like new too, as opposed to the well-used T40. More pictures: The specs: I didn't realize these were that old, probably because i had been using them... They're fine for old software & old games.
  13. Try using a gigabit switch from the cable router to get a gigabit network for the wired devices. Transfers between wifi and wired will be same as before. You could also try having the routers on the same subnet, just disable dhcp and dns serving on the new one and set the ip to be on the same subnet. Remember to use an ip that wont be in use by other devices. The filtering may not work with this setup though, depends on how its implemented. Other possibility is to have the new router as the dhcp server, but you would need to be able to change the gateway address it serves to match the old routers ip. I assume this would be a more "pro" feature so it may not exist on regular routers.
  14. You should still try powering the speakers without the pod to see what it does. Use both of them with the grounded power.
  15. I meant that you use the grounded outlet to power your pc as well. It could help with the speakers breaking. Also thought of one more thing to try, do the z5500s make any noise when you power them with the pod disconnected? If they make noise then the amplifiers are probably faulty, but if it stays quiet you could try getting a replacement pod.
  16. Well, Not having ground on your appliances can cause issues, but i would imagine if they are all powered from the same outlet there wont be any issues, apart from the safety perspective. Your neighbor is probably not guilty, unless he has drilled into your actual power cables. Old chargers can cause interference but it should stop as soon as the charger is unplugged. The crackling may be the dac in the pod trying to start and failing, assuming it is damaged. I dont know how the internals work, just guessing. The leds are probably driven by a separate chip which has survived. The fuse would protect against shorted speaker wires and strong power surges, but not the sudden discharges. The cable mess is "fine" from electricity standpoint, but it is probably a fire hazard I would suggest that if possible (and if the circuit can take it) run an extension cord to a grounded outlet and use it to power your setup. It could possible remove some unknown factors in this puzzle. You will need at least a 1000w to be safe, so 5-ish amps for the setup. The speaker system has its own power supply, and with a 2a fuse it could pull up to 460-500w continuous power from the wall. The pc is not involved in supplying power to the speakers, only the audio signal.
  17. I can try to explain. The speakers look like they are double-insulated, and thus aren't grounded. I assume they also have a two-prong plug like most audio equipment? If the ground were intermittent, it would make the effect more damaging. Could be caused by a loose connection or a bad cord. "High"-current pulses are more damaging than a small continuous current. (there is capacitance in the system, so there will be a pulse when connecting) The internal surges would be the leaking voltage getting discharged to ground suddenly through the audio cables, and thus damaging the pod unit, and possibly the sub as well. Most modern power supplies are switch-mode, meaning they are electronic, smaller, and more efficient. But they do need a special capacitor across them to suppress noise which could cause issues with other electronics. This capacitor can cause current flow from the mains side to the low-voltage side. The current only flows when the low voltage side is referenced (connected) to ground. So it is like the power supply generating "static" electricity. Harmless to humans, but can cause problems to electronics. A thought: If the speakers are plugged in before connecting them to the pc, they could get a ridiculously high voltage (very briefly) on the audio input line when connecting them. Wikipedia says the audio signal should be max 2 volts ac, and the leaking voltage could rise (float) up to the 100s of volts.
  18. I would like to say that the pod part is faulty then. It is probably the most fragile part as well, and could possible break due to weird voltages when connected to pc. (the speaker sets are not grounded, and if they are getting (possibly intermittent) ground through the pc it could cause internal surges, which damage the sensitive part... this one is a very long shot guess. But there is going to be small leakage from the speakers to ground due to the nature of switch-mode power supplies)
  19. Cut one end off a vga cable and solder directly to gpu. Its free if you dont screw up Or buy a 0,90$ adapter from flea-bay and wait a month.
  20. In theory the sound card could damage the pod, but it is very unlikely. The pc can only deliver enough power through the audio jacks to make headphones work, but that is about it... Did you check that the pc still outputs sound, you could check that with headphones. It is also possible that the first set died due to old capacitors, second one broke in shipping (or the seller lied) and the third one had a manufacturing defect. You could also have your electricity tested, although it probably isn't the problem here as nothing else is breaking. It might just be very bad luck.
  21. Googling for a bit shows that the z906 blows its internal fuses when a power surge occurs - explains why there is no sign of life. Some have had other power supply related failures. The z5500 on the other hand blows its amplifiers, causing no or partial sound. Possible explanations i found are shorted speakers/their wires (overload) and main smoothing caps coming loose on the pcb (apparently causes really loud noises, which blow the amps). Did you change out the whole system when you bought a second one or just the amp? You could also look inside the z5500's to see if there are any burn marks, especially around the amplifier chips. (they are mounted on a heatsink) Sources: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/help-required-repairing-a-logitech-z906-speaker/ https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-broken-logitech-z5500-sub/
  22. Try downloading crystaldiskinfo and see if it reports any errors on the drives. If it says its fine, try copying stuff and monitor the temperature of the hdd. Diskinfo updates every 10min, but you can update by pressing f5 or change the update speed in the top menus. Something like hwmonitor can also monitor hdd temperatures, and updates quickly by default. You can also use crystaldiskmark to run a speed test on the drive.
  23. My guess is that you plugged a floppy power connector into a fan header on the mobo. It will short either the +5v or the +12v line to ground through the mobo and cause huge current flow. Might not trip the short-circuit protection on the psu but the over-current protection should have turned the system off automatically anyway. If the mobo doesn't look like its falling apart, I would disconnect the hard drive(s) and the graphics card, make sure there are only two cables connecting the power supply and the mobo (24-pin and 4 or 8-pin, same style) and after that turn it back on while keeping my hand on the power switch (socket or power supply). Leave the side panel off as well so you can turn it off quicker if smoke comes out. Dont do it on a carpet and maybe have a fire extinguisher on hand especially if you have a no-name psu. And if you're scared use safety glasses and do it outside.
  24. I have the same board, intel nvme ssd, no problems so far. (booting in legacy mode, MBR partition table, win7) Do you have something plugged into the sata ports 5&6? You cant use them if you have a m.2 device installed. It says so in the manual. I think i tried using them and it simply ignored the sata device(s) and functioned normally otherwise. I also checked my bios (latest version) and the m.2 says none. But if you look closely that option is under the SATA devices menu, so it makes sense that a pci-e device is not listed there.
  25. Where do you keep your cellphone? My subwoofer occasionally buzzes if i have my phone on one side of my table, and the loudness of the buzzing is relative to the distance between my phone and the amplifier (cheap ebay amp for car use). Some days it does not buzz at all. Apparently the phone sends out more interference when it tries to connect to a mobile network, and where i live my phone keeps switching between 3g and 4g, depending on the signal level of the 4g. Wifi does not cause issues in my experience. Having poor wiring would not help the situation either, though.
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