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About Pesukarhu

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Twitch.tv
  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Vocational school, "lusmuilun perustutkinto :D"


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen R7-1700 @3790 MHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Prime B350
  • RAM
    16gb of Kingston HyperX
  • GPU
    Nvidia Gtx 1060 6gb, asus dual oc model
  • Case
    Fractal design define c tg
  • Storage
    Intel 600p 512gb nvme ssd, Crucial mx500 1tb ssd, WD green 1tb HDD
  • PSU
    Seasonic Focus+ Gold 750W
  • Display(s)
    Samsung 40" 1080p tv, 50" 4k tv and small aux monitor
  • Cooling
    Thermalright macho direct air cooler + 2 fractal case fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech k120
  • Mouse
    Ebay "gaming" mouse
  • Sound
    M-Audio Delta 1010LT soundcard, cheap analog mixer, old pioneer amplifier and no-name speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 7

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  1. Old optiplexes are picky about booting from usb, try another usb drive. Older drives are more likely to work.
  2. Pesukarhu

    Buying ThinkPad P51 - Need your inputs

    I have had a T570 for a year now. It is very close to the P51s (same manual) and i assume the P51 is close as well. I have had no hardware issues with it. Battery life is great with the dual (internal 32Wh, external 72Wh) batteries. I think that is a good price, at least with how expensive thinkpads (and memory) are in general. They are well-built machines. Only thing that i find interesting that you only have 1 year carry-in warranty. I got 3 years on-site (for "free") with my 1500€ T570 with the option to extend to 5 years!
  3. Pesukarhu

    Show off your old and retro computer parts

    I have a T40 and a T41 Both work, i have chargers for both and a dock as well. The bigger charger also works as a car charger. The T41 feels like new too, as opposed to the well-used T40. More pictures: The specs: I didn't realize these were that old, probably because i had been using them... They're fine for old software & old games.
  4. Pesukarhu

    Networking conundrum, please help

    Try using a gigabit switch from the cable router to get a gigabit network for the wired devices. Transfers between wifi and wired will be same as before. You could also try having the routers on the same subnet, just disable dhcp and dns serving on the new one and set the ip to be on the same subnet. Remember to use an ip that wont be in use by other devices. The filtering may not work with this setup though, depends on how its implemented. Other possibility is to have the new router as the dhcp server, but you would need to be able to change the gateway address it serves to match the old routers ip. I assume this would be a more "pro" feature so it may not exist on regular routers.
  5. You should still try powering the speakers without the pod to see what it does. Use both of them with the grounded power.
  6. I meant that you use the grounded outlet to power your pc as well. It could help with the speakers breaking. Also thought of one more thing to try, do the z5500s make any noise when you power them with the pod disconnected? If they make noise then the amplifiers are probably faulty, but if it stays quiet you could try getting a replacement pod.
  7. Well, Not having ground on your appliances can cause issues, but i would imagine if they are all powered from the same outlet there wont be any issues, apart from the safety perspective. Your neighbor is probably not guilty, unless he has drilled into your actual power cables. Old chargers can cause interference but it should stop as soon as the charger is unplugged. The crackling may be the dac in the pod trying to start and failing, assuming it is damaged. I dont know how the internals work, just guessing. The leds are probably driven by a separate chip which has survived. The fuse would protect against shorted speaker wires and strong power surges, but not the sudden discharges. The cable mess is "fine" from electricity standpoint, but it is probably a fire hazard I would suggest that if possible (and if the circuit can take it) run an extension cord to a grounded outlet and use it to power your setup. It could possible remove some unknown factors in this puzzle. You will need at least a 1000w to be safe, so 5-ish amps for the setup. The speaker system has its own power supply, and with a 2a fuse it could pull up to 460-500w continuous power from the wall. The pc is not involved in supplying power to the speakers, only the audio signal.
  8. I can try to explain. The speakers look like they are double-insulated, and thus aren't grounded. I assume they also have a two-prong plug like most audio equipment? If the ground were intermittent, it would make the effect more damaging. Could be caused by a loose connection or a bad cord. "High"-current pulses are more damaging than a small continuous current. (there is capacitance in the system, so there will be a pulse when connecting) The internal surges would be the leaking voltage getting discharged to ground suddenly through the audio cables, and thus damaging the pod unit, and possibly the sub as well. Most modern power supplies are switch-mode, meaning they are electronic, smaller, and more efficient. But they do need a special capacitor across them to suppress noise which could cause issues with other electronics. This capacitor can cause current flow from the mains side to the low-voltage side. The current only flows when the low voltage side is referenced (connected) to ground. So it is like the power supply generating "static" electricity. Harmless to humans, but can cause problems to electronics. A thought: If the speakers are plugged in before connecting them to the pc, they could get a ridiculously high voltage (very briefly) on the audio input line when connecting them. Wikipedia says the audio signal should be max 2 volts ac, and the leaking voltage could rise (float) up to the 100s of volts.
  9. I would like to say that the pod part is faulty then. It is probably the most fragile part as well, and could possible break due to weird voltages when connected to pc. (the speaker sets are not grounded, and if they are getting (possibly intermittent) ground through the pc it could cause internal surges, which damage the sensitive part... this one is a very long shot guess. But there is going to be small leakage from the speakers to ground due to the nature of switch-mode power supplies)
  10. Pesukarhu

    Second Display Won't Detect

    Cut one end off a vga cable and solder directly to gpu. Its free if you dont screw up Or buy a 0,90$ adapter from flea-bay and wait a month.
  11. In theory the sound card could damage the pod, but it is very unlikely. The pc can only deliver enough power through the audio jacks to make headphones work, but that is about it... Did you check that the pc still outputs sound, you could check that with headphones. It is also possible that the first set died due to old capacitors, second one broke in shipping (or the seller lied) and the third one had a manufacturing defect. You could also have your electricity tested, although it probably isn't the problem here as nothing else is breaking. It might just be very bad luck.
  12. Googling for a bit shows that the z906 blows its internal fuses when a power surge occurs - explains why there is no sign of life. Some have had other power supply related failures. The z5500 on the other hand blows its amplifiers, causing no or partial sound. Possible explanations i found are shorted speakers/their wires (overload) and main smoothing caps coming loose on the pcb (apparently causes really loud noises, which blow the amps). Did you change out the whole system when you bought a second one or just the amp? You could also look inside the z5500's to see if there are any burn marks, especially around the amplifier chips. (they are mounted on a heatsink) Sources: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/help-required-repairing-a-logitech-z906-speaker/ https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-broken-logitech-z5500-sub/
  13. Pesukarhu

    HDD transfer stops

    Try downloading crystaldiskinfo and see if it reports any errors on the drives. If it says its fine, try copying stuff and monitor the temperature of the hdd. Diskinfo updates every 10min, but you can update by pressing f5 or change the update speed in the top menus. Something like hwmonitor can also monitor hdd temperatures, and updates quickly by default. You can also use crystaldiskmark to run a speed test on the drive.
  14. Pesukarhu

    Something inside my System burnt.....

    My guess is that you plugged a floppy power connector into a fan header on the mobo. It will short either the +5v or the +12v line to ground through the mobo and cause huge current flow. Might not trip the short-circuit protection on the psu but the over-current protection should have turned the system off automatically anyway. If the mobo doesn't look like its falling apart, I would disconnect the hard drive(s) and the graphics card, make sure there are only two cables connecting the power supply and the mobo (24-pin and 4 or 8-pin, same style) and after that turn it back on while keeping my hand on the power switch (socket or power supply). Leave the side panel off as well so you can turn it off quicker if smoke comes out. Dont do it on a carpet and maybe have a fire extinguisher on hand especially if you have a no-name psu. And if you're scared use safety glasses and do it outside.
  15. I have the same board, intel nvme ssd, no problems so far. (booting in legacy mode, MBR partition table, win7) Do you have something plugged into the sata ports 5&6? You cant use them if you have a m.2 device installed. It says so in the manual. I think i tried using them and it simply ignored the sata device(s) and functioned normally otherwise. I also checked my bios (latest version) and the m.2 says none. But if you look closely that option is under the SATA devices menu, so it makes sense that a pci-e device is not listed there.