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TrueElite

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  1. Like
    TrueElite got a reaction from gloop in [SOLVED] New build no POST - DRAM light   
    Unfortunately the furthest I've gotten to a boot is the DRAM LED.
    That being said, I noticed today my specific RAM kit is not on the QVL (probably because of a last minute change from 3200 CL 16 to 3600 CL18). The folks over at PCMR's discord have suggested grabbing a kit on the QVL just to make sure, and returning the current sticks.
    Thanks again for the help, hopefully this was indeed the issue.
  2. Like
    TrueElite got a reaction from gloop in [SOLVED] New build no POST - DRAM light   
    Apologies, I misread your response - upon further testing this only happens with one.
  3. Like
    TrueElite reacted to harryk in What do YOU consider when pricing old electronics?   
    I typically sell on eBay for most things. I'll crawl through current listings and recently sold listings for same/similar items get a feel for the lowest price and mid price that it has sold for. Then I price my item below the mid but above the low, typically with a "Buy It Now" at or slightly above the mid. Many items I have listed actually end up selling for more than the mid price thanks to eBay auction psychology. 
     
    When shopping for used things I do a similar crawling through current and recent listings to get an idea of price. If I see what I deem to be a good deal or need something right away I'll make a purchase. Otherwise I'll make a "Saved Search" on eBay and set up email notifications. Then I wait for a good deal. This is a great way to get things for the lowest price possible and snag "Buy It Now" listings that are under valued.
     
    In terms of actually evaluating a given item, generally I'm pretty picky and look for things in like-new condition. Retail box is usually a good sign that the owner cared. Many high quality photos are also a huge plus because images speak more than words. I'll check the description for lingo or terminology that indicates the seller actually knows about the item. I generally prefer private sellers over eBay businesses unless it is a reputable name (e.g. Newegg's eBay storefront) or otherwise is somehow compelling. Everyone wants to list their items as like-new condition so a lot of my evaluation comes down the the believability of the listing rather than the actual details of the item.
     
    If its not in like-new condition, it needs to be a real bargain compared to the better listings for me to consider it. Especially if it's broken in some way or otherwise not fully functional.
     
    Except for rare or unusual items, the market is very good at settling on a fair price. If that price is too much then don't buy. The decision is really no different than buying new, just with the added evaluation of believability of the item description.
  4. Like
    TrueElite reacted to Kisai in What do YOU consider when pricing old electronics?   
    I've never sold my old electronics, either I use them till they break, give them away to relatives or people who specifically want them. But most of that is that shipping in Canada is an extreme rip-off. If it can't be picked up locally, forgetaboutit.
     
    Now as for what to buy.
     
    I've rarely bought computer hardware on eBay. I've bought old console game carts, one of them wound up being a repro (counterfeit.) I had to go through several game consoles to get one that works.
     
    So with that said.
     
    1. eBay is a good way to get a reference point for the value, but only if you're looking at BIN (Buy It Now) value, not auction value. Auction values are always initially set low to lower the sellers cost, and if they set a reserve, it's the same as having a BIN on it, so they may as well just BIN it if that's what they want to get for it.
    (full disclosure, I used to work for eBay.)
     
    2. Don't list your items next to counterfeit items. Make sure you always use a new photo when you list old items. Never use a stock photo, and never reuse a photo if the listing fails. The reason is that people will steal the photos to sell their own fake/poorer-condition items, and use it to take down your listing. Make sure to watermark your photos as well. If you're selling stuff that is new, then you can show the photo of the item, sealed, and the receipt along with the stock photo. If you're selling NOS (New, Old stock), then you can use eBay's provided stock photo if taking a picture of the item itself would break the seal on the item. Previously owned items with any wear on it or an unsealed box should never use a stock photo. If it's unsealed, take a photo of the unboxed item.
     
    3. Don't spam with unrelated keywords when listing online. Some people have a penchant for trying to get attention by loading their listing or title up with words that are not relevant. Like if you were selling an EVGA nVidia GPU, then you'd say "EVGA nVidia GTX 1080 8GB, NEW" if the item is the GTX 1080 and New. If you put more than one brand in the title, you'll get the listing pulled eg "MSI EVGA ASUS GTX 1070 1080 AMD RADEON 5700 XT 8GB 12GB" . Never have brands that are not present in the title or body of the listing, EVEN if you are making a comparison. Making the comparison is actually worse, because then it gets pulled for "Keyword spam - Comparison".
     
     
    That covers eBay in general.
     
    Now, consider the collectability of an item.
     
    Most computer hardware is not collectible, because it wears out. However "intact" hardware is. This is hardware that has not been used, or is in the original packaging. Anything that can be used to build a "DOS gaming machine" or a "Win98 gaming machine" has slightly more value to it. There's some rare hardware, particularly music and mpeg cards that are hard to acquire, and even harder to repair. I'd kill for Roland to make new MT-32's, or make a USB-midi/usb-c audio model, but alas Roland can't figure out that vintage 80's kit is hot right now. The first person who makes a FPGA MT-32 would probably fill a niche needed by vintage DOS gamers at least, let alone music.  Vintage Voodoo2 and Voodoo3 cards are collectible if you're into the old 3DFX games.
     
    Aside from that most PC hardware after 1999 to 2008 has no premium value. It's primary of interest to people repairing old equipment, or trying to squeeze an upgrade out of a frankenbox. 
     
    Non-PC hardware, eg Apple kit, has much higher value as there is a collectability to it, and they are stylish. However it may just end up being a prop in film or TV show rather than be used.
     
    Home theater equipment doesn't hold value, but it also doesn't age as poorly. Like if you bought a home theater-in-a-box 20 years ago, it still does surround sound. But a newer one supports all the current digital audio codecs, HDMI, and 4K/UHD, etc. You can reuse speakers forever though, especially ones that have been built into the wall/ceiling. So people typically use the systems until they replace their entire setup in phases. So something like TV -> HT -> DVD/BD Player ->HDTV/Cable box/nVidia Shield, etc.
     
    Previously owned LCD panels (monitors or televisions) have some value to them, but it REALLY REALLY depends on local purchase. You are not going to sell a 24"+ LCD panel to someone and mail it to them. Chances are you might not even have the original box, and the shipping will cost more than the item. So better to just hawk those on Craigslist/Kijiji, or set "local pickup only" as the shipping option on eBay.
     
    Same with entire built Chassis/Laptops. Unless you happen to have kept the box, you're not going to ship one wrapped just in bubblewrap. Computer systems without optical drives and without mechanical drives may survive a trip, but the screen (laptop) and cooling solution for the CPU/GPU might not, and may even break if the package is dropped a significant distance. Given how many times people on this forum say they've hit their computer by accident and the cooling has gone awry, I'm going to suggest maybe don't even buy whole computers without being able to pick them up yourself. 
     
    Consider condition.
     
    With very little exception (eg stuff for "parts") most poor-condition electronics have a negative scrap value. For example, all CRT's you can't even give away unless they are a PVM or can be used in an Arcade cabinet.
     
    Items with replacable parts (eg easy to remove connectors) inside plastic or metal chassis that have been damaged or beat up, can sometimes be salvaged. But in general it always comes back to "would anyone pay money to buy this" , is it worth spending money trying to get rid of it?
     
    The answer to that tends to be no, a lot. If an electronic item has a high defect rate, it's even harder to sell unless you can prove the item is not one of the defective models.
     
    Where to sell
    Which comes back to the entire idea behind electronics pricing. Craigslist and Kijiji are very low risk for the person who lists the item, but have a higher risk than eBay itself for the seller/buyer actually completing the transaction.
     
    There are alternatives out there like Rakuten and Amazon.com that let you sell new and previously owned equipment. However selling anything that isn't "new-ish" is risky on these sites as they're mainly a gateway to selling new stuff from independent storefronts. 
  5. Like
    TrueElite reacted to nicklmg in 3 MILLION SUBSCRIBER GIVEAWAY   
    THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR BRINGING US TO 3 MILLION SUBSCRIBERS ON YOUTUBE!!
     
    Y'all are bae. That's why we've partnered up with Razer to give away one NEW Razer Blade 14, and one NEW Razer Blade Stealth (full specs listed in the announcement video), with a custom graphic designed by our very own Edzel Yago  .
     
    RULES OF THE GIVEAWAY:
     
    1. One entry per user. Duplicate posts and posts from duplicate accounts will be deleted before a winner is drawn, to leave one post per person.
     
    2. Winners will have 72 hours to respond. If a winner does not respond within that time, a new winner will be drawn.
     
    3. This is a worldwide giveaway with no age restrictions. Shipping costs will be covered by the shipper, but any duties/taxes/other fees upon delivery will be the sole responsibility of the winner.
     
     
    Alright, now that we've got that out of the way, OMG THIS IS AWESOME HOW DO I WIN ONE???:
     
    1. Comment below letting us know which Razer laptop you would prefer to win. Feel free to make it fun - what would you use it for? Why do you prefer the Blade or the Blade Stealth?
     
    2. This is not a REQUIREMENT for entry, but you should definitely follow Razer on Twitter and subscribe to their YouTube page. In addition to providing the laptops for this awesome giveaway AND sponsoring our trip to PAX, they work with a plethora of other incredible creators in a number of spaces, and release cool content with some of them on a fairly regular basis. Please support them on social media and Tweet at them thanking them for this giveaway!!
     
    3. Check back in one week. Entries for this giveaway will close on Monday, September 12, and winners will be chosen soon after. Winners will be messaged by me here on the forum. Do not accept any other form of communication as legitimate, and do not share personal information with anyone who asks for it unless you can confirm that they are a legitimate source.
     
    That's it!! If I've missed anything, feel free to let me know.


    GOOD LUCK TO EVERYONE ENTERING, AND THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR SUPPORT ON THIS CRAZY JOURNEY
     
     
    EDIT:
     
    Alright, we have selected our winners!!!
     
    @Plavi and @willp3, you have 72 hours to respond to the DMs I am sending you right now. If we do not receive a reply in that time, new winners will be chosen! Since both said that the Blade would be their choice, it's on a "first replied first served" basis. (for clarity - what this means is that the first winner to reply will get their choice between the two laptops, and the second winner to reply will get the laptop that the first winner did not choose. This does not mean that we're only giving away one laptop...)
     
    Thanks everyone.
     
     
    EDIT2:
     
    Alright, so @Plavi has officially claimed the New Blade! Congrats on winning

    But, unfortunately for @willp3, he did not respond in time to claim his prize...

    Our new Blade Stealth winner is @ted542! Check your inbox, you have 72 hours to reply
     
     
    EDIT3:
     
    Both laptops have now been claimed. Thanks for participating in this awesome giveaway, and please be sure to keep an eye out for giveaways in the future!
     
     
    Please don't report posts in this topic - all duplicates will be handled before drawing, so if you have double posted, don't worry about it.
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