Ltskitzo

Hey man, I know this post is old, but I just wanted to say that this is an awesome little mod! The only thing I would change is the external wire showing. you could have soldered the wire to the internal contacts, removing the need for anything to be plugged in. Other than that though...damm good job! Also, if you have any pics on the internals that would be amazing (again I know this is an old post!). Might follow this up myself.

OK.....that rad to rad fitting is extreme. Damm, well done man....it's like art.

Just a rebrand of the standard.

No no, you Laing DDC is stock. No question there.

Hey man, assuming you are talking about a traditional laing pump (DDC or D5) then this is standard practice. If you see two wire going from your pump to a molex connector, these are live and neutral wires, specifically designed to provide power (often yellow and black) The Fan header should have 1 or 2 additional wires which would be either a RPM sensor OR an RPM sensor AND PWM (aka speed) control. It would be extremely odd for a pump to have two sets of live and neutral wires, allowing it to be powered in two methods....

Haha. Love it. Something so satisfying about using the space so damn efficiently!

So with DDC pump's there are 3 different size of impeller. The traditional from Laing (and rebranded 1million times over). The old-school G5 mac version (practically a relic now). And the swift-tech MCP35XXX versions. EK uses the traditional Laing one (either 1,2,3.1,3.2) and it will share the same height impeller.

But this close?!

I use DDC pumps due to space restrictions. I find my DDC's make a lot more noise if they are in contact with things. Especially metal. They will make the metal they touch either vibrate at the same frequency OR rattle against it. Foam tape is usually my solution...

Yep, hardline. Although man....it has been a really hard time getting it sorted. So many tight spaces to cram my fingers into to tighten the compression fittings. It takes 10+ minutes to get to idle temperature from cold (due to massive thermal mass). She idles at 34C (ambient 20c), fans are set to 500rpm fixed. 15min stress test took the water to 43c. Playing RDR2 for 1 hour was 42c I'm replacing all the LED's and their wiring (to make things neater). I'm also replacing the PCB in the pump with one from DIYINHK. Allowing the pump to be PWM, reducing noise even further. Here's a progression photo:

RTX 2080

This is my new 200mm Radiator, I've never seen anyone using one of these before so I thought it might be interesting to some. It's 200mm, but has a bracket to allow 180 fan attachment. It's so big that Phobya states in can be used in a passive cooling capacity.

Just mix ek cryo fluid (or equivalent) with distilled water. You don't actually need inhibitors so don't worry about diluting them out of the solution. If you are still slightly paranoid, you can always drop in a silver kill coil.

Just mentioning this because no one else has. DDC pumps require external cooling while D5 pumps cool themselves using the water that flows through them. So this temperature is completely normal. Also your water temps are great. They could be lower with more radiator real estate or higher fan speed, but I wouldn't bother. Anything under 55 is fine. Above that and you risk your pumps health.

Mostly because I've already spent the money on the mod PCB, and as I stated before, this is a fun project for me. But at the same time you might have answered my question...I didn't realize there were fan header pumps produced by actual manufacturers. I will see if I can find the amp draw on them. Thanks for the link! *EDIT* Oh damm that thing is gimped. Maximum flow rate of 500l/h against the standard 1000 of typical ddc pumps. I guess that answers my question. You can run it off a fan header, but expect 50% performance.