HdFkK

Those are JST RCY Connectors, you can order them on eBay. 10 pairs with crimps are about 3$ including shipping You could also go ahead and get 50 pairs with crimps for about 10$. If you are interested in the darkside rgb connectors, those are JST SM Series Connectors. Both use the same kind of crimps.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($334.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($74.90 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($186.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($129.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.77 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($594.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($155.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1782.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-03 19:51 EDT-0400 Added a Motherboard with Thunderbolt, put the HDDs in Raid 1 and have the possibility to do a hackintosh on this if you ever wanted to, since it´s all compatible components! You could easily downgrade PSU and CPU cooler in this config without any loss in performance. A Macho Rev B and any reliable 80+ 650W+ PSU will do!

Update: Got a 970 with a short PCB namely a 970 Superclocked by EVGA. Got a Heatkiller X3 with a backplate for that puppy and throw it in my loop to again go for leak testing for the next 24 hours. One might notice the wild mixture of connectors, that is because it is fairly hard to get everything from one brand, but I do not like the EK fittings too much but they and the Alphacool ones (as well as the ordinary tube fittings in silver) are the only ones that fit the Primochill tubing well. A Bay Res will be coming in later this week as well as a plexi top for the DDC, I want a more quiet system with a larger, visible reservoir that fits the overall characteristic of the build. it is going to be a Koolance TNK 501 with some ultra bright white LEDs lighting the red coolant. But first, here is the update:

Like 970s in general? I would love to get something with more power, but an R9 Nano really is the opposite of price/performance. Too bad no company does anything better than a 970 with a short PCB..

Did it overclock good? I mean I would only buy it for better GPU power delivery, otherwise I´ll go with a Palit Jetstream since it has mDP Connectors which would come in handy with all the Apple stuff I have.

I would like to. If there is a good successor to the 970 with versions that have a short enough PCB to fit my case I would definitely get one. Otherwise I´ll get a 970 for cheap then, as some of those cards are really short and would fit perfectly. I don´t think I can put any LEDs in there tho, I love the look of red coolant and white LEDs in a Nickel-Plexi block.

Will do, a german review side measured the pcb to 23,3cm. I think I´ll go with 23,5cm and if that´s too long I won´t get the strix.

Thanks guys! I really want a GPU in there as soon as possible and mod the side panel with acrylic so it will be completely visible from the side. Cable management is tough in that case though.

Thank you Sir! This would mean the strix would fit by a couple millimeters.

So here we go, this is my Mini ITX "Gamecube". The sole purpose of this rig is gaming at 1080/1440p and entertainment purposes in general. I am about 50% into the process of finishing this build. But lets get into the components a little: CPU: 6700k pretested @ 4,7GHz MB: Asus Maximus VIII Impact RAM: 16GB Teamgroup DarkPro DDR4-3200 Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD + 2*1TB WD Red Raid 1 PSU: Coolermaster V700 PSU + Cablemod Black/Red Water-cooling stuff: Maximus VIII Impact EK Monoblock Nickel 240mm*30mm HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis X-Flow Radiator 140mm*45mm Alphacool NeXXos Radiator EK DDC X-Res 150 PWM Pump Res Combo Masterkleer 13/10mm Tubing EK Blood Red Coolant Lots of fittings Lets see it! So you might have noticed there is no GPU and some things need improvements as well. First off, this is my first water-cooling build and this setup is only a test run. The tubing visible through the window is going to be replaced by hard tubing once I figure out how I am going to connect the loop and which GPU is going to be used, as I can't have any PCBs longer than 240mm since my reservoir is standing in the front corner and takes up quite some space. The system is also meant to be portable, so I´ll really have to see about the hard tubing. JayzTwocents got me interested in glass tubing, I could definitely see myself going for glass. Problems I ran into so far: - not fitting fittings - EK ones worked fine for my Masterkleer 13/10mm tubing, not so bits power and alphacool - no noise dampening on the Corsair SP Fans, really loud, but I can't fit much dampening in there, it would be great if anyone has a fix for that - first CableMod kit was not working, currently waiting for the reseller to ship me another one - clearance issues all over the place, but with a little bit of filing I was able to fit everything just fine The system is already up and running Windows. Temps are great so far, but numbers don´t really matter until I get a GPU in that loop. Next steps: - Install noise dampening/shock absorbers for all the fans hopefully - Optimize CPU Overclock - Decide on a GPU + EK Nickel Block - Install CableMod cables I will keep this thread updated if anyone is interested in this project of mine. I will also put out benchmarks and temps once I get my OC where I want it to be. Until then, don´t let you carpet sprayed by your coolant like mine did

Hey everyone, for my Mini ITX water-cooling build, I am looking for a short graphics card to watercool with an EK block. My options as far as I can tell are the short versions of reference cards like for example the Palit 970 Jetstream or the EVGA 970 with the reference cooler. I definitely know those will fit. But, and here comes my point. All of those cards only feature 4 power phases for the GPU and the strip does 6, I just want a card with more overclocking headroom in terms of the PCB, and the strix PCB seems to be relatively short. So if anyone out here who owns a 970 Strix could measure how long the PCB is (without the I/O shield) that would make my choice a lot easier. I also thought about a R9 Nano, but that would be quite a step up in price. If I can´t get the strix in my system I might as well wait for the Pascal cards, either to get more performance or to grab one of those 970s once they become fairly cheap. Thanks!

My Skylake Board is an Asus Maximus 8 Impact which has really good overclocking capabilities. Dancop (german top overclocker) runs that board and a 6700k with that Trident Z RAM and wins overclocking events on that config (although that is all LN2 professional overclocking stuff and I think they also only use 1 stick of RAM). So depending on the qualities of my 6700k I could get past 3200? But don't get me wrong, I would love to keep that RAM as it is really good looking RAM (TeamGroup Dark Pro Red Series). What do you mean by the rank of the sticks? My DDR4-3200 kit is rated CL 16-16-16-36, I got it because of the looks and lifetime warranty.

So by those means, I could opt for some G Skill DDR4-3733 which is pretty reasonably priced for a 16GB Kit. I have a couple days left to return my 3200 kit, with almost no extra cost I could get that kit instead of the one I only bought for the looks...

I noticed I was running the driver that came with my 970 out of the box and it would fold without issues, even overclocked to 1450MHz on the Core and 7000MHz on the VRAM. But I did actually update the driver just two days ago and although I did not run into this problem from the beginning on, the GPU throttles at exactly 405MHz, which keeps happening after some time. When I reboot my system it works fine for a while, I can even get it to work again by pausing and resuming, but that only works sometimes and is no option I would actually consider. So I think both of your explanations might apply to my case, I think the Bios of the card is kind of messed up due to the fact that I really tested out how far I can take it for benchmarking, and I appear to have a pretty damn good chip since it was able to tun over 1500MHz stable while benchmarking and gaming. But MSI Afterburner to me is really bad, but I also dislike most other Desktop tools for GPU overclocking and stuff. I definitely will get GPU-Z to reboot the driver instead of rebooting my whole system in the future, thank you for that info, I just tried it and it worked, I wonder for how long If I did not have a second project for a Mini ITX 6700k water-cooled gaming machine on the side, I would have actually gone for the 5930k because the extra PCI-E make it extra future proof, but I plan on getting the 6 core Broadwell-E with 40 lanes later this year, depending on the financial circumstances as always. Those Nvidia forum trolls, man, stupidity sometimes leaves me speechless. Even on a mild overclock, my 5820k easily gets to 4,1GHz and at that point it has a much better single core performance than a 5960X out of the box and an almost equal multi core performance at still reasonable temps and 100% stability. But right now for 24/7 operation including the CPU I am not satisfied with the airflow in my bequiet silent base 800 case, although I have two 140s intakes in the front plus one in the bottom and two 140mm exhaust fans in the rear and top of the case. So 5 case fans, 2 CPU fans on the dark rock pro 3 and still - I can't get the heat out of the case fast enough once the CPU goes to work. And it's not quiet at all. I mean I can feel how much air is pushed out by the rear fan, but that's not nearly enough since I can feel massive and I really mean massive positive pressure on the inside of the case (it blows air through even little hole, even the IO shield of the MB) and the top fan does not seem to even make an impact at all. But if BOINC can use that kind of computing power, I might just try to get a cheap ASrock X99 Mini ITX or Asus X99 WS-M board and put my 5820k in there once I upgraded my workstation with Broadwell-E. I could put some cheap GPU in there and have it run only the CPU for the Seventeen or Bust project. You say memory bandwidth is crucial for those tasks, is Quad-Channel helpful? In the ITX I could only go dual channel, but I have a 2*8GB kit lying around for troubleshooting on my other systems anyway, so that would save me quite some cash.

I just looked at that picture like a couple minutes ago and didn´t notice it was an Impact board, I even have a bookmark of it. Man this whole find the right case has been going on for way too long, so long that I mess up the information I try to collect.. Thank you very much tho!

Hello everyone, I have a pretty simple question: Does anyone have experience with fitting a top mounted radiator into an Evolv ITX case using a motherboard of the Asus ROG Impact series? I want to go 2*240mm Radiators, one in the top and one in the front, I guess I´ll have to use slim 27 or 30mm ones due to the restrictions the case puts on me. But still, will it fit? (That´s what she said.. ) Another option would be a Corsair 250D where I know a slim 240mm fits in the side and a thick 140mm in the front, similar to what the corsair team did one their YouTube channel or what some guy on overclock.net did (post #949) . I would actually like building in the 250D better since it is so much more compact, but I could always do that later on since that is a really ambitious project, especially for someone who has never done any custom loop before.

Hey everyone, so I just got into this whole distributed computing thing and since I have a Galaxy Note 3 lying around like 95% of the year (it´s my "travel" phone) which features a Snapdragon Quadcore, I thought I just let that thing run BOINC 24/7. So far it worked just fine, but I ran into some problems: Calculations for the "Enigma 0.76b" always fail, so I have like 50 tasks of that where it just says calculation error. Although there is a trashcan icon showing up next to it, I can´t get rid of those tasks whatsoever. Has anyone had similar issues using the BOINC Android app lately? My internet connection is stable as well as the power supply to the phone, I also adjusted the energy setting to allow it to use battery as it won´t be leaving it´s charging dock. Any help is very much appreciated!

I live on the highest floor in my building right under a dark colored rooftop with no AC. So my average temps in my bedroom during summer easily exceed 90°F/32°C. For me that is more than enough at high humidity. Apart from that: I am right now only getting 60PPD on my 970GTX and the GPU-Frequency doesn´t go over 405? I have a factory overclocked MSI 970 4G and it was able to put out at least 250PPD just yesterday, but it seems to have some problems. GPU usage is over 90%, temps are relatively low yet not as low as idle, I just don´t get it. Probably going to open an extra thread for that if I can´t get it fixed myself. Note: My CPU is overclocked, my GPU isn´t. I only fold on my GPU, since running an overclocked 5820k on full load 24/7 would be a waste of money...

Well, a 380X is the cheap option for me, but seeing my 970 putting out over 300k ppd, it is still the better deal. So I guess I am sticking with Nvidia. I just hope you are right and the coil whine really disappears after a while of folding. I think the rest of my hardware should be able to withstand at least 2 more month of folding before the ambient temps go crazy because of climate change or whatever it is that makes Germany feel like the south american jungle from June to September. Water-cooling here I come!

Well 290Xs are sold out in Europe and would blow the budget anyway as far as I can see. I have my GTX 970 folding right now, but I really do not like that coil whine my MSI 4G Gaming produces. But a 960 is no option for me. If I would get a second 970 I could also go SLI for gaming if i ever wanted to..

Are the Radeons as good as Nvidia Cards for folding? If yes, the 380X has to be the best value under 250$ correct? What kind of PPD can one expect from this GPU, I could not find any information on that. Planning to put it in a multimedia PC that runs pretty much 24/7 anyway.

Hey everyone! Inspired by Linus´ home setup with his PC in a different room, I went for a similar solution because I also value silence a lot. And let me tell you, a BeQuiet Silentbase 800 with all Silent Wings 2 and a Dark Rock Pro 3 is NOT quiet on 60%+ load. So here we go: - Asus E-WS X99 Board + Thunderbolt EX II (Dual) Card - Corning Optical Thunderbolt Cable 5,5m - Cal Digit Thunderbolt Station 2 - Apple Displayport/Thunderbolt to DVI adapter I can get the Thunderbolt Station working with my MacBook Pro without Problems. I can also connect my display to the TB Dock on Windows 7 and 10 and it works perfectly. Even the eSata driver appears to work since it shows up in the device manager, but it might also be the ones on my MB? Anyway, the Intel Gigabit does not work under Windows 7 or 10 and neither does USB. The Intel Driver recommended by the manufacturer is outdated, but the module should be supported in the newer drivers I guess. The "Frisco Logic USB 3.0 Host Controller" install fails under both, Win 7 and 10. Also the Intel Thunderbolt utility does not show any connections whatsoever but I can change Thunderbolt Settings in the Bios and I mean somehow the signal that my Display shows goes over the optical cable, so the hardware seems to work just fine in that aspect, yet totally fails apart from that. I am thinking about getting Win 8.1 on another SSD just to give that a try but I am kind of frustrated at the moment. First I thought it was the Dock itself, but on my MacBook it works well 95% of the time, it just doesn't like my Logitech G15 Keyboard at all. I tried all the above with 2 clean installs of Win 7 and 10 and kept the BIOS at optimized defaults. I really could use some suggestions on how to fix this problem!

Well, my 6700K isn´t.

After all this thread is was more informative than Linus' video on the topic. Anyway: Going to get a delidd die Mate and delidd all my CPUs on the very first day after my warranty is over. I so hate the temperature differences on some of the cores of my 5820k. I really can't even look at my core temps for very long because it just freaks me out...

Well if by any means you could shoot for the i5 model with 8GB of RAM you might be more future proof with that device. If not, the 4GB version should be also perfectly fine. Be sure to get a large micro SD card so you can easily double your storage!