Endeavor01

thank you

Internally certificates signed from your own CA work fine and many businesses employ them simply by deploying the CA cert through GPOs, so I don't see why that wouldn't work on the WAN. The only real purpose of a trusted CA is so you don't have to manually install certificates before someone can access your webpage.

Come on people, this poor man just wants to play with a NAS and figure out how it works. Power to you.
 
One thing about FreeNAS is it likes having it's own disk to boot off of and it's own disks for storage.
Once you got your prereqs boot into the shell interface and run "ifconfig". That'll get you your ip info.
Now you can log into your FreeNAS server via http or https (recommended). Your default username should be root and the password is what you set.
After you're in, Storage -> Pools to create a storage pool and Sharing -> SMB shares to create a share.
 
Edit: OP, if you have more questions just quote me. I recently finished building a FreeNAS server so all the info is fresh in my head ?

I run a OnePlus 6t after my Galacxy S7 died, after that phone I'll stay away from Samsung.
 
As a sysadmin:
Basic Tools, WiFi analyzer, I can FTP, RDP, etc.
As a student:
Fully customizable interface, I can have my google calendar on my home screen, see my grades and assignments when I swipe to the left.
Cheap, $550 flagship.
 
Other Pros:
Google integration is convenient.
1080p Screen (something even an iphone 8 doesn't have)
Camera is better than I need it to be, although not stunning.
 
Cons:
Apple is seemingly much more secure.
Although more apps are "free" you're paying with your personal data and/or advertisements.
 
Android is more about the ability to choose, The Samsung fanboys are just as bad as the Apple ones. If you picked up a note 9 because it's currently the best phone on the market and has the best camera than awesome. If you picked one up because you wanted to upgrade your note 8 you're abandoning the best part of android.
 
If I could install IOS on my OnePlus, I would.

Come on people, this poor man just wants to play with a NAS and figure out how it works. Power to you.
 
One thing about FreeNAS is it likes having it's own disk to boot off of and it's own disks for storage.
Once you got your prereqs boot into the shell interface and run "ifconfig". That'll get you your ip info.
Now you can log into your FreeNAS server via http or https (recommended). Your default username should be root and the password is what you set.
After you're in, Storage -> Pools to create a storage pool and Sharing -> SMB shares to create a share.
 
Edit: OP, if you have more questions just quote me. I recently finished building a FreeNAS server so all the info is fresh in my head ?

Not to mention if you install windows yourself the manufacturer can't install a ton of bloat-ware.
Given windows 10 already does this to an extent...

Unfortunately prime only gives you 5GB free for your videos.
Thanks for that PCMag link, iDrive looks like it could be promising

One of the things that I often see people say when asking for a headphone recommendation is, "I want a neutral sound signature to hear the music the way the artist intended." However, this is very flawed logic. I also find a big misunderstanding among many people of what the term "neutral" means.
 
First let's start with a definition of what a neutral sound signature is. By basic definition, a neutral sound signature would be one where there is no emphasis on any part of the music. If you looked at a frequency response graph it would be just one flat line. The first thing you must understand is it is impossible to have a perfectly flat response without EQ. This goes for headphones are speakers. This is because so many factors. On headphones it is extremely difficult to tune something to be perfectly flat. Due to how driver tuning and dampening works, often when you tweak something, it changes something else, meaning it is basically impossible to have a dead flat headphone. Also other factors can change the sound such as the pads wearing down over time, this will affect the sound. Also someone with larger ears that take up more volume of the cup, that also can slightly mess with the sound. Basically everything you do to a headphone makes a huge difference when it comes to sound.
 
Speakers on the other hand are a totally different story. What a lot of people don't realize is that the same set of speakers can sound totally different depending on the room. Other factors such as how far away you sit from them, the height, and the angle that a speaker is placed at, can all massively change how a speaker sounds. Professionals, and people who really care, will often do what is called "Room EQ". Basically what this entails is setting up a measurement microphone in the place that you will be sitting, and then the speakers play a tone across the audible frequency range. The microphone then picks up how the room is effecting the sound, and then creates an EQ to counteract how the room effects the sound. Now this is not to say that all studios EQ their speakers flat, we can have the argument of Harman vs Diffuse Field targets, but that is a complicated issue that we won't go into for the sake of those of you that are not too keen on audio.
 
Now if you for some reason want to EQ your headphones perfectly flat, Sonarworks does make a program called "Reference 4" that costs around $100 for headphones, and more for speakers and other devices. What Sonar Works does is measure many different pairs of headphones, and then analyzes the frequency response, then makes a counter frequency response that makes them dead flat. Also they have EQs for other desired sounds like bright, dark, bass boost, etc... And even still that will not be 100% perfect as there can be slight variances in response even between headphones of the same model. Luckily for those of you who are super anal about that, Sonarworks does allow you to send in your exact pair of headphones to be measured and have a personalized profile made. Now personally I don't believe in EQ as it can have problems on many headphones, particularly distortion depending on the amount of EQ, but that is a topic for another day. 
 
So now onto why you probably don't want a neutral response. First off, the argument that "It is the way the artist intended for it to be listened to." is totally incorrect. That is only assuming that they did in fact EQ their speakers and headphones dead flat, which you have no way of knowing. And even if they did and you did as well, the only way to listen to the song "the way the artist intended" is for you to use the exact same speakers or headphones, configured in the exact same way as the person who mixed and mastered the track. And as I mentioned in my thread about the misconceptions about studio headphones, mixing and mastering is done almost entirely on speakers, and a lot of artists try the tracks on things like phone speakers to get an idea of what it sounds like to people who don't have the $10,000+ Genelec surround setup that the track was probably mixed on. Also I mentioned in my studio headphones thread that you don't need a flat response to mix, you just need to know the response of your headphones or speakers to know how to counteract the peaks in their response, in your mix. So the artist didn't intend for you to have to listen to the track on a perfectly flat response. They make the track to be listened universally on things like your phone, or crappy Beats headphones and Airpods. 
 
The other reason you might not want a neutral response is that it can be boring. Now people ask me what is a really neutral pair of headphones, which honestly I struggle to think of anything that I would feel safe to call truly neutral. The Sennheiser HD800 is probably the closest thing that comes to mind, but even that is still V shaped to an extent.

There really is nothing in a headphone that is truly neutral without using EQ. Now onto why neutral can be boring, There are a few headphones that are not neutral but are not insanely far off general neutrality (because nothing is even close to dead flat neutral), and some of those headphones are boring to listen to. This is because a lot of people actually want some life in their music. If you listen to EDM, you want that elevated bass. People that listen a lot to anime or "Weeb" music tend to look for elevated mids. If you like classical or jazz, you probably want some emphasis on the treble where strings and many wind instruments fall. Having a very neutral response I think most people will think their music is dull and boring sounding. Now admittedly, a lot of the time this also has to do with dynamics, which to put it very simply is how well a headphone distinguishes between loud and quieter sounds. Headphones with poor dynamics often sound very dull and boring. Now going back to the HD800 being sort of neutral, I do own a pair of HD800, but I don't find myself using them much. This isn't so much because they are neutral, but more to do with the 6K peak and being very unforgiving with their detail retrieval. But that also is for when I ever get around to reviewing those.
 
Anyway I hope this shed some light on some of the misconceptions regarding a neutral response. If you have any questions feel free to ask them here. Or DM with any questions you have regarding anything in this thread or if you want recommendations.

That should work perfectly.

By on screen display I assume you mean you're trying to tell the monitor to run at 144Hz even though it should run at that speed when you tell your gpu to output it. I attached an image that should help.

"We Were Here" was really good. It's a 2 person puzzle game, just don't look at it before you play it because it's short and the whole fun of the game is figuring out how it works.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, it's free.

"We Were Here" was really good. It's a 2 person puzzle game, just don't look at it before you play it because it's short and the whole fun of the game is figuring out how it works.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, it's free.

the 460/560 is slower,
if you find a cheap 470/570 it would roll all over the 1050 ti in price to perf
 

Use FRAPS, it has a built in benchmark tool as well.

Never dismiss a possible solution because of a respected brand.
on your 24 pin connector, you want to bridge the green wire (known as Power-Good as dumb as it sounds) with a ground (black) wire to start the PSU. if your PSU isn't color coded, the Green cable is 4th from the left with the clip facing up. Use This image to guide you. Either wires to the left or right of it are ground wires that you can connect. I'd recommend using a paperclip to bridge these.
 
Your PSU should start up, it's easiest to test on a Molex connector if you have one. Touch the Red wire on your multi meter to the red or yellow wires on the molex (use This if it's not color coded) and the black wire to the other black wire. The Red wire should read ~5 volts and the Yellow wire should read ~12v.

Run GPU-Z (Free), Run the Render Test, and upload a screenshot like so:
 

Usually the buzzer is located in the Case accessories bag/box that came with your case. If you don't have one, you may be able to borrow one from another non-OEM machine. Most OEM machines have them soldered onto the motherboard.

do you have a buzzer connected to the board? if so the beeps it makes could help

Never dismiss a possible solution because of a respected brand.
on your 24 pin connector, you want to bridge the green wire (known as Power-Good as dumb as it sounds) with a ground (black) wire to start the PSU. if your PSU isn't color coded, the Green cable is 4th from the left with the clip facing up. Use This image to guide you. Either wires to the left or right of it are ground wires that you can connect. I'd recommend using a paperclip to bridge these.
 
Your PSU should start up, it's easiest to test on a Molex connector if you have one. Touch the Red wire on your multi meter to the red or yellow wires on the molex (use This if it's not color coded) and the black wire to the other black wire. The Red wire should read ~5 volts and the Yellow wire should read ~12v.