silraks

That's a lousy soldering station (without feedback from the tip). It's not really worth the money.
 
You can check out Farnell , they ship to various countries in Europe from EU warehouses:  http://uk.farnell.com/w/c/tools-production-supplies/soldering-stations-accessories/soldering-stations/soldering-stations/prl/results?sort=P_PRICE
 
Check RS-Components as well : http://www.rs-components.com/index.html
 
And TME.EU has cheap solder and fluxes and maybe also soldering stations https://tme.eu
 
 
You basically have cheap soldering stations which have some knob controlling the temperature, but they don't don't actually control temperature, the knob just controls the amount of electricity that goes into the tip and the setting on the knob just guesses what the temperature would be.
So for example, if you set it at 300 degrees Celsius and you try to solder a very thin wire, then it would work.
But, if you try to solder a thicker wire or some big component lead on a circuit board (which has a lot of copper that absorbs the heat from the iron tip), the energy pumped into the iron tip won't be enough to maintain the temperature at 250-300c and actually solder, because the leads and the circuit board will act like a heatsink and absorb the heat.. so these controls are very rudimentary and not very helpful.  The amount of energy going into the top is constant, it doesn't vary, you set the peak amount of energy with that knob.
 
If you're fine with that, you may as well go with the cheapest $13 uk pounds Duratool station.
 
The next level is proper soldering stations which have a temperature sensor in the tip and the knob or buttons actually control the temperature. You set the temperature and the station reads the actual temperature of the tip and pumps energy in varying amounts to keep the temperature there. So if you put the tip on some circuit board which sucks up the heat and cools the tip suddently, the station reacts fast and pumps a burst of energy to bring the temperature back to the setting and as soon as you raise the tip and heat isn't sucked anymore from the tip, the station lowers the amount of energy pumped. So it's dynamic power control, and knob sets temperature.
 
Farnell sells Tenma branded stations which are actually rebranded Atten stations, you have there Tenma AT60D-UK at 33 uk pounds (Atten AT60 rebrand)  or Tenma SS-207BC-F ( which I think is a rebranded Yihua  Hakko 936 clone ) at 35 uk pounds  or Tenma 21-10115 UK (another rebranded Atten model) at 38.5 pounds
These come with UK plugs but you can either change the plug or use UK to EU plug adapter or change the whole cable (it's regular pc power cable on some)
They also use the classic Hakko tips you can buy on eBay for something like 4-5$ for 10 tips and the classic Hakko clone handpieces you can buy from eBay and so on...
 
As for solder wires, yes, what you buy does make a difference, i can write long posts about the differences, let me know if you really are interested and want to me to suggest something
 
to keep it short, look for 0.7mm thick or thinner (i prefer 0.56mm thick), buy 60/40 or 63/37 or 63/36/2 (overkill and expensive) solder, with at least 2% flux , ideally no-clean or RA or RMA flux (rosin core mildy activated or activated, with or without halides) , stay away from water soluble fluxes (as they're NOT what you may think from the words)
Good brands Multicore, Stannol, Kester, Edsyn , Henkel ..

I believe AM4 (Ryzen) doesn't support windows 7

That is exactly what I would do. 

You can just have a single powerline adapter from your router to the main TV area and use a switch to allow for more ports and connections since you also have an xbox and smart TV. 

Depends as everyone has said  it could help but you know...depends  

Depends on the game, but your first concern should be the power supply.

That would probably be a pretty high GPU bottleneck. That Dual core will struggle in the games that that 960 is made for. (I'm speaking from experience)

- the fps increase will be minimal at best in most games
- no it wont be worse
- you can often in games limit the fps, pretty much always in terms of you can turn on VSYNC, but there are also other ways of going about it (I think in Nvidia's control panel you have a way to limit fps too)

that's my rig 

I think good point is more suitable rather than a thumbs up, since answers/questions may have a good point. The thumbs up doesn’t really specify what your giving a thumbs up too.
 
I know this isn’t that big of a deal but I'm just curious to what happened to it.
 
I'm sorry if this isn't the right sub-forum xp if its the wrong one, please move it

Hello LTT!

I am working on a project on my own, where I had some spare parts from my awesome sponsor, Arctic. They made this post possible, so I wish to thank them one thousand times!
 
I have a good friend, who is currently enrolled in a College program. As a student, his funds are extremely limited, and spending on his computer is not always possible in the way he wants to. 

He have been complaining a ton about how his rig makes noise, and after a visit to check up on the rig; i found two things. 

1: The rig was dusty. Dust accumulation made his coolers ineffective, and drove temps up.
 
2: He was using a stock cooler. The 2600 is a hot chip, and needs decent cooling if the user wishes low sound from the rig. 

So; here is what I did. I kindly asked him if I could borrow his rig for a guide on how to clean your computer. This is something he had been wanting to do for some time, but due to time pressure had not perused. Obviously, he agreed and handed over the rig. Here is the story told in pictures:
 
I picked up a fairly plain computer. Few scratches, broken front-panel and missing 5.25" bay cover. Dust filters is always a sight for sore eyes.


 
Looks like the filters are doing their job so far
 

 
First picture of the opened machine. Also pictured is me, staring into the abyss of dustland, while removing a dustfilter
 

 
Presents from the machinegods
 

 
Everything taken into consideration, this could be much, much worse. I am a happy man overall. 
 

 
PSU and PSU Filters is a godsend - this is why they;re so important!
 


 
Looks like some of the grease from the fans ball-bearings have been leaking, which caused this incredibly resilient dust to accumulate 
 

 
Ew
 

 
I am not satisfied with the result of my "cleaning" but in the timeframe this was the best I could do. 

 
 
Here I have removed the stock heatsink, and installed the Freezer13, that was donated by Arctic. I sure hope he will like the newfound silence
 
 
 

 
I don't have any pictures of the inital backpanel. Partly because it was not interesting, partly because I forgot. 
 
New cablemanagement is alright. Not my best work, but OK, considering the non-modular PSU. This is the next on the upgrade list!
 
Here is the new and improved front side


 
 
 
 
 
 
 

https://hitfilm.com/express 
Free Video Editing software. MUCH better than Windows Movie maker

Going a bit offtopic, but you might want to change the GPU to gtx 950 or something

Magnetic case badges that I made from by PC build. I bought 10' roll of 1" magnetic tape at Walmart for $4 in the crafts section. 
 
Each one is a separate 'movable' magnet badge. They are just randomly placed here for a photo. I don't like the idea of permanently affixing sticker badges to my case and not being able to remove them later without possibly peeling some paint off messing up the finish. This is better!
 

Here are more pictures of my build! 
 

 

Steam games are different, then look in the Steam folders.

It´s a strider plus, tier 4.

You have bought what is believed to a majority as a lighter. It sets things on fire. For example, a computer!

You need a clean USB storage, and download any BIOS update on the manufacter's website. After that, plug the USB storage in to the motherboard and enter the BIOS.
Once youre in, you should be able to find an option to update/flash your BIOS to a newer verison with the USB storage.
If it goes wrong, youre fucked. I dont see any need in a BIOS update right now, but im not to argue with your hardware.

I really like the led strip together with the mesh upfront. Good job on designing this case, and gl making it!

Well, normally I'd say you should grab a 950, but the Powercolor PCS+ R9 380 4GB is on sale on Newegg for $164 after a $20 mail-in rebate. If you can afford this, it's miles ahead of the GTX 950 and even handily beats its big brother- the GTX 960.

http://pcpartpicker.com/mr/newegg/powercolor-video-card-axr93804gbd5ppdhe

Get it if you can afford it. Also, it has 4 gigabytes of VRAM, as opposed to the 950's 2 gigabytes, so it should last you a lot longer.