kevp453

try the mobo.

could be mobo.

Adam
 
Hear me out! Combining these dead pieces together reminds me of Frankenstein's monster. While the monster is never named in the book Frankenstein, the monster does say to Victor, "I ought to be thy Adam."
You are now the Dr. Frankenstein of the PCMR and this is your Adam.

I used to work from home myself and had the same conundrum of switching between work corporate laptop that had a dock to my gaming PC every day. I also had triple 1080p monitors to work into the equation.
 
I used a device like this to make a one button switch for your USB devices. Get a USB hub to plug in your USB devices and plug that into the USB switch, or a docking station if you want to add audio/ethernet.
For the monitors I recommend running them directly to your laptop and to your gaming PC and just switching inputs on your monitors. It's annoying but it will be the only way to get full throughput, especially from your GPU.

Are you booted from the drive? You can wipe a drive your booted from.
 
Boot into a installer, then wipe and reinstall.

thank you for replying. I plan on playing on all low at 1080p. I want to get a 1070 which is what I might end up saving for!

Radeon HD 5870
The card requires you to have a 500 Watt power supply unit at minimum if you use it in a high-end system. That power supply needs to have (in total accumulated) at least 40 Amps available on the +12 volts rails.  
eventhough that thing is near 460watt i doubt it has 40amp on the 12+ rails
 
that thing looks like a friggen oem psu
 
also u can get molex to pci-e converters, but i wouldn risk that shit

Get creative! Use some legos? Maybe tie some fishing wire to the top of the case to the card and cinch it up?
Also, it looks like your board has the reinforced PCI-e slots made to support such a card. Put it in there, and see if it sags. I'd rather have a bit of a sag than poor performance.

I'm curious what you want to cache that will see much of a difference with Ramcache. I've tried Ramdisk and Ramcache like software over the years and never seen a huge difference, but a huge pain.
Anecdotally, I've never had much success with Asus software. They make great hardware and mobos, but their software is crap imo. AI Suite and everything that goes with it gets tossed on my computers.

you would be surprised how much that ram would gimp your gaming performance. I did a test with Rise of the Tomb Raider at 1080P with 2133mhz and then again at 3333mhz, I changed nothing else:
 
1080P 2133mhz
 

 
 
3333mhz
 

 
It was a one off test I did, but the result shocked me, this was on a Ryzen 1700 @ 4ghz 

Besides the size difference, the last two add RGB lights, and less bezel. You can never have to many RGBs, right?

i got it all to work, i followed what you said and i just finished installing windows, it just finished setting up
 

ill give it a shot, thanks for all the support!!!

Laptops screens either use a protocol called FPD or embedded Display Port, using connectors meant to connect things inside the hardware. Plus they may not be standardized, with different manufacturers doing different things. So even if you were willing to crack open your laptop whenever you wanted to connect your switch to its display, finding a "converter" would be really hard unless you're willing to rig up your own.
 
Most portable monitors are USB based and require the CPU to render the screen before sending it to the monitor, which the Switch isn't going to do. There are USB powered, HDMI-input based portable monitors, but they're expensive, starting at $250 if you're lucky.

If I had to pick of the 3 I would go with the Netgear Nighthawk. The AC1700 vs 1750 vs 1900 is mostly meaningless marketing.

Hard to know about Borderlands 3 as we know so little about it. Terraria and The Escapists and the like don't require much horsepower. In my personal system I have a GTX 980 and can run Doom on high and get 144 hz fairly easy. Star Citizen is a hard one to benchmark because it has and will change a lot.
 
If I had to pick a card for your situation I might be looking at a GTX 1070 or 1080 if high FPS gameplay is a priority. That's if you can find one at a price you're willing to pay with the way the GPU market is.

What games are you wanting to play? Do you have a budget? What processor do you have? What resolution do you want to be playing at (1080, 1440, 4k)?
Vague questions get you vague answers. Here's my vague answer: You will need a good graphics card to play at 144hz high.

What games are you wanting to play? Do you have a budget? What processor do you have? What resolution do you want to be playing at (1080, 1440, 4k)?
Vague questions get you vague answers. Here's my vague answer: You will need a good graphics card to play at 144hz high.

I haven't had to do this a while, but in the Nvidia Control Panel should be an option for setting the default. Something like nvidia control panel> go to manage 3D settings> click global settings> set preferred graphics proccessor to nvidia

Of course you aren't able to install Realtek drivers for an Intel NIC. That wouldn't make sense.
 
We could use some more info to help you. What is your internet speed? What modem and router do you have? How are you wiring your computer to your network?
 
When asking for help, details are important!

I'm still running an i7-4790k and haven't found a good reason to upgrade, yet. That CPU is still going for ~$250. Like legacy99 mentioned, unless you really need the hyper-threading and the clocks I wouldn't worry about it. Do you have a better place to put $200? Maybe an SSD instead of an HDD or upgrading your GPU?

I'm still running an i7-4790k and haven't found a good reason to upgrade, yet. That CPU is still going for ~$250. Like legacy99 mentioned, unless you really need the hyper-threading and the clocks I wouldn't worry about it. Do you have a better place to put $200? Maybe an SSD instead of an HDD or upgrading your GPU?

The Issue:
Google WiFi stalls and reboots while modifying settings through APP. Upon restart, Google WiFi Cloud Services becomes unresponsive (disabled) and Google WiFi requires factory reset in order to change any setting.

I am posting this encase anyone else is having trouble and can not figure out why. So the issue is on the Google WiFi mesh system when used as the primary, internet facing, router on a fiber network (i.e. FiOS) that uses VLAN or DDNS. My original setup was as follows:
 
FiOS ONT (Optical Network Terminal) --> Google WiFi --> FiOS Router --> All Other Wired Devices
 
As listed above, the Google WiFi is directly connected to the ONT and thus received the WAN IP. I then connected the FiOS router to the Google WiFi and disabled the DHCP & DNS server so all DHCP and DNS requests would be sent through to the Google WiFi. All wired devices are connected to the FiOS router which is essentially being used as a managed switch.

According to Google, Google WiFi does not support VLAN or DDNS and thus Google WiFi Cloud Services will crash and become unresponsive through the mobile app. This will also cause the diagnostic report function to fail.

The Solution:
The solution to this issue is simple enough, but does require another piece of hardware. Simply place a network switch in between the ONT and the Google WiFi. The setup should be as follows:
 
FiOS ONT --> Network Switch --> Google WiFi --> FiOS Router --> All Other Wired Devices
 
By placing the switch before the router the switch removes the 4 bits added onto the packets from the VLAN and thus allows Google WiFi to operate properly.

My Rant:
This is extremely annoying for a number of reasons. First, I bought the Google WiFi router for the ability to manage every device on my network through a convenient app. If I placed the FiOS router before the Google router I would either have to configure it to act as a switch, which means I would loose MOCA connections such as my cable boxes, or set it up as a router and thus loose the ability to manage any device on the FiOS router from the Google WiFi app. Next, by using a network switch before the Google Wifi I remove any VLAN issues but I now have a $25 switch that I am unable to use three of the ports on because it is before the primary router. What is the point of buying the Google WiFi mesh setup if it requires other hardware to properly operate on a fiber network? Finally, this is a small issue but it managed to make my night very long, Google WiFi does NOT allow you to release the DHCP Lease which means, on FiOS at least, I have to call and wait 25 minutes on hold, hang up from frustration, then wait TWO HOURS before the ONT DHCP Lease expires to be able to test that the Google WiFi works behind switch (before going out and buying one).

The Conclusion:
Google WiFi is an easy to setup and use mesh network that I would definitely recommend to anyone. By simply adding a network switch before the Google WiFi this issue can be resolved. Hopefully, Google will soon support VLAN and DDNS so this issue will go away =]

I don't think you need to worry. Most AIOs use an Propylene Glycol mixture of some sort. 
From Gamersnexus:
"As for the liquid used, that’s a mix of propylene glycol and distilled water. Some manufacturers will specify a higher percentage of glycol in the mix, which will help the cooler better withstand extreme temperatures – like -40C, for example. Most coolers are able to take around -20C, which is a good balance between not freezing during shipping and the improved cooling potential of a higher distilled water concentration."
https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2926-how-liquid-coolers-work-deep-dive
 
Don't worry, you're good

I took your list, swapped out for an 8700k and z370 mobo, swapped for a different cooler that looks nicer and has similar performance.
I also upped you to a 1080ti for $100 less. It isn't the prettiest card, but imo at $1000 you should get the best, miners be damned.
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6cRRBb
 
Edit: You can take that $100 savings and up the PSU a bit!