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Crxcked

Member
  • Posts

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  • Steam
    THEBOSSMAN
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    GoldKillerCobra
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    GoldKingCobra
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    @GoldKingCobra

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    PC's, hardware, software.
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

System

  • CPU
    i7-5820k
  • Motherboard
    Asus X99 Sabertooth
  • RAM
    G-Skill 2666 (4x8gb)
  • GPU
    Gigabyte G1 Gaming 980 Ti
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 Pro, Seagate 2TB Hybrid
  • PSU
    EVGA 850G2
  • Display(s)
    LG 34UC87
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X61 Liquid Cooler
  • Keyboard
    TBA
  • Mouse
    TBA
  • Sound
    Onboard, Maxx Monitor Audio (Its amazing)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 64-bit

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Crxcked's Achievements

  1. a Windows expert 👍

  2. Thank you very very much for your pointers, we got the system to boot after spending hours editing the registry. We found an automatic backup of the registry already on the system in a folder named RegBackup. The backup was from last year but 95% of the services were the same, so we loaded it in as well and cross checked each of the hundreds of services with the backup and corrected each start value to their normal value. This was useful as 4 (disabled) wasn't to be replaced with 2 (automatic) every time and the correct value could've varied as we found out (0, 1, 3, etc), and some services were set to disabled anyways. Anything we couldn't find we cross checked with another good PC. Figuring out how to load the registry hives into regedit was a bit of a process, but we learned how each part of the registry was a different system file somewhere, and how we could temporarily load them into the stock windows regedit and then unload after we were done editing. We exported a backup of the registry in case, but the computer booted and everything was all good after our first (albeit hours long) attempt at editing the registry. It still amazes me how easily you can brick a Windows PC within a few clicks, and that there's no easy way to repair it. I hope documenting our experience will help someone else.
  3. This was very helpful but I'm getting stuck on the last mile here. Getting into the scanned services, all were showing up as selected within autoruns so I'm not sure if the list is complete or if disabling in MSConfig is reflecting in autoruns. I was looking to start MSConfig instead, but trying to open that throws up an insufficient privileges error and says we need to be in the administrator group to access it. How can we elevate our privileges from Hiren's to be able to open it? Beyond that, if services truly weren't disabled in MSConfig upon having opened it, what are some other few broad measures we can take to repair for a failing boot within hiren's? Thank you I truly appreciate the guidance.
  4. Yes, they changed the terminology from Windows 8 to 10. Prior to 10, reinstalling the OS without losing files was called refreshing and now its just an option within the resetting function and just considered a type of reset. The Last Known Good Configuration was unfortunately only on Windows 7 within the recovery environment. It would've probably fixed this. These are the current options on 10 which aren't as useful.
  5. You lose your apps and programs when resetting via even the least invasive option, and that's what we're trying to avoid.
  6. That's the menu we used to reach Safe Mode, but it doesn't boot in. There's no restore points. The automatic Startup Repair wizard wasn't able to fix it. And the command prompt runs out of X: and isn't able to start or find MSConfig. This solution suggests to either access through safe mode (which we can't). Or to redo the startup files via cmd (it doesn't fix it). Or to straight up restore/reset your PC. The only hope I see is through the registry as we're not able to even boot via safe mode.
  7. A friend (running Windows 10) was trying to resolve an unrelated issue and a site recommended a clean boot by disabling all non-Microsoft services via MSConfig (system configuration). It suggests a restart after ok'ing those changes except the PC will not finish booting anymore. It is suspected by me that he forgot to hit "hide all Microsoft services" before hitting "disable all, thus disabling all Microsoft services with it." Because the third party services not running should have no effect on whether Windows boots or not, and the issue started right after the following restart which would apply the changes. Windows is stuck on the loading beads over the black background, the windows icon doesn't show only the hallmark windows loading circle. The system was left overnight on the boot loading screen to no avail, it is stuck on boot. We are able to access Windows Recovery by tripping it by force-restarting it three times. Within that, the automatic "Startup Repair" wizard isn't able to find a solution. There is no restore point available. And we are not able to boot into any of the 3 variations of Safe Mode either, they all lead to a blank black screen. Only command prompt is accessible in its limited form and a drastic option to reset the PC, thus losing all programs and associated settings/data but not "personal files." It seems that just being able to re-enable these Windows services would allow the PC to function normally again, but MSConfig doesn't seem accessible by the WinRe limited command prompt and Safe Mode isn't accessible. Currently I've been exploring regedit on a good PC to possibly find the keys and values that toggle the enabling and disabling of services, if that can be pinpointed the registry should be modifiable by booting to a program like PCRegedit and modifying the boot drive's registry. I hope we can find a solution for this peculiar situation. Appreciate the help!
  8. As the Kingston is TLC. The Kingston is a no brainer compared to the MX500, correct? I can go up that little to get a stable M.2 that’s not QLC.
  9. I’m building a new B450 PC currently and have ordered most parts besides storage. I am stuck between this QLC NVME m.2 or this TLC SATA one. (or something of the likes) Given how new QLC technology has downsides and the advertised speed isn’t entirely maintained, should I just go for the safer MX500 option? I’ve seen QLC slow to a crawl after use. I would have one drive that would share the OS, games, everything. The PC will have average use with gaming being the most intense activity. Which should I go for? They are both in my budget.
  10. I’m pretty confident that the fractal unit seems like the best choice. Quiet, platinum, fully modular, and in stock, for almost the same price. Any final thoughts? It’s looks like really good value and I should be ordering that soon.
  11. These are my options in my price range. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#e=6,5,4&A=500000000000,2000000000000&X=0,9224 I was pretty set on the Seasonic Focus Gold but it goes in and out of stock, and it’s out of stock right now. Is there any viable alternative from this list (like the be quiet unit), or maybe even a better one? I’m currently looking to wait on the Focus though. This is for my second B450 build (3600 + rtx 2060) Thank you for your help!
  12. My price justification is the slight bill savings with platinum efficiency. There's also seems to be a dramatic difference in the sound levels between the gold and platinum. After the evga experience, and their sassy support, I'm just going for stability and long-term viability. I have used an 850 g2 for years in another build though and it has always been phenomenal. I did decide to go with the 2060, as I aired on the side of stability and ease of use. The 5700 was a compelling option though. My biggest change from this thread was going from a 1080p 144hz monitor to a 1440p 75hz, and I'm really happy I did so, the panel quality of my particular monitor is awesome for an ips with 0 backlight bleed.
  13. And I've also decided to not RMA the ram. Although I clearly didn't win the silicon lottery on my pair. I was able to gradually bring up the frequency to advertised speed through careful voltage revisions.
  14. If you look back, you had mistaken it for a B unit and corrected it, and I know some of these are dangerously bad. Under normal circumstances, I would've never bought this particular psu, but I decided to take the chance and I very unluckily ended up with a lemon. Coincidentally though, I had just finalized a platinum Straight Power 11. Just looking to hear back from b&h sales about a 650w availability, otherwise I'll go for the 550w. The extra watts aren't needed currently but are good to have.
  15. All Japanese caps, dc-to-dc, 10 year warranty, rated Tier B+ by LTT forums.... Besides the lack of reviews, it still seemed like a safe bet. Out of the ones you suggested, I've decided the Straight Power 11 Platinum but my only woe with it is the 550w, if I can find 650w of that anywhere, I'll definitely go for that for just an extra $10. Any further suggestions? Or is the be quiet a go?
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