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About Windows7ge


  • CPU
    5960X O.C. 4.5GHz
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    64GB G.Skill Ripjaws4 2400MHz O.C. 2666MHz
  • GPU
    2x Sapphire Tri-X R9 290X CFX
  • Case
    None, custom built wall PC
  • Storage
    Intel 750 Series 400GB PCI_e SSD/2x3TB WD Reds in RAID0
  • PSU
    Corsair AX1200i
  • Cooling
    XSPC Waterblocks on CPU/Both GPU's 2x 480mm radiators with Noctua NF-F12 Fans

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    Building custom computers
    Custom water cooling
    Computer networking

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765 profile views
  1. Don't worry about it I just watch internet videos while I wait. I see. Your product malfunctioned. That backplate is plastic isn't it? And the screw holes stripped. Bad design. Don't waste you time trying to pinch the ring which is against the motherboard just pinch the threads that normally screw into the backplate with pliers then from the other side (You're gonna have to hug your computer case to do this) unscrew the corresponding screw holding down the CPU block. And never mind you got it. Just don't buy water coolers with plastic backplates in the future.
  2. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't socket 2011 or 2011-V3. What are the chances that you could send a photo of these screws behind the motherboard so we know exactly what it is that you're looking at?
  3. What socket did you install it on?
  4. I'm wondering the same thing as Rangaman42. The screws go through the backplate to secure it on. If the backplate fell off then normally the cooler should be removable. If the backplate has come off but there are nuts preventing the removal of the cooler I'm left to assume you installed the cooler incorrectly.
  5. Go ahead and de-lid the CPU just be aware that you may not see the drastic performance increase others claim they got. If anything do a before and after test for us. Assemble the loop. Run it for 1 hour or 2 under 100% load (OC or not doesn't matter) write down the max temperature recorded. Next remove the CPU, de-lid it, replace the TIM, rerun the test for an additional hour and compare the two. Post your findings here. Just don't be surprised if your results aren't as good as others claim.
  6. I'm not doubting this. I custom watercool myself though I haven't delided my processor. I know the paste Intel puts between the die and the IHS isn't the greatest and replacing it should yield noticibly better results yes. However from what I've seen 20℃+ and more is an exaggeration for how much lower temperatures can get. I'm not saying it won't improve the temps at all but a temperature change like that sounds like they didn't let the fluid in whatever cooling loop they're using reach equilibrium after putting the system under load after deliding. It sounds like they just started the system and went with the first number they saw after starting Prime95, AIDA64 stress test, or whatever.
  7. Just intake from the front through the radiator. The air passes through the radiator rather quickly. The amount of heat introduced is marginal because of this. A few °F at best increase. You won't see any noticeable impact to the rest of the system with a front mounted radiator setup to intake air. Plus the CPU will get the freshest air first which might let you add just that extra 100MHz that you want before getting too hot.
  8. Removing the shield isn't that risky even if you just used a razor blade to do it. The risk is when/if you apply uneven pressure to a bare silicon die. I can't really give recomondations on the other equipment. I don't have the time right now to check compatibility and weather or not it'll fit in your case.
  9. What about mixing a silver coil with full copper blocks and copper/brass radiators?
  10. Well the biggest issue is the IHS plate is used by the motherboard mounting bracket to apply pressure to the CPU. When delidding the CPU you have to reinstall the IHS plate unless you expect the downwards pressure to come from the cooler. This is risky because the CPU die is a thin wafer of silicon. A type of glass. If pressure is applied unevenly the die can crack. Immediate dead CPU. Using the IHS plate replacing the thermal compound inbetween the CPU and IHS will improve cooling marginally. I don't know where you saw 20℃+ reduction in temps but they lied or took major risks. I heard of 1 motherboard that comes with an accessory you can install specifically for when you delid a CPU which prevents you from applying uneven pressure to the bare die. Even with that a 20℃ reduction in temperature is unrealistic.
  11. I wouldn't waste your time delidding a CPU. Unless you're having thermal problems it won't significantly improve cooling. It may drop a few degrees but nothing spectacular.
  12. Temps like that says bad contact. If I recall correctly the stock heatsink uses pushpins. Make sure they're fully inserted and none are broken. Even if the fan isn't spinning a passive stock cooler under no load should have results better than that.
  13. The only mobile systems I know of where the manufacturer likes to solder everything on are MacBooks. A laptop that doesn't let you replace or upgrade components like ram or Wi-Fi cards is bull. As I said. You can try a USB Wi-Fi card but those are not designed for low latency applications and streaming is very latency sensitive. It may work but quality may decrease.
  14. If the Wi-Fi card is soldered to the board I'd take it up with the manufacturer to try and get a replacement. Cause it sounds like hardware failure. You ruled out drivers. Tried a different internet source. Not much more you can do except replace the Wi-Fi module to see if that fixes it. If it's soldered to the board then attempt a(n) RMA. Other options are USB Wi-Fi card. You can try that but you may have latency delay issues during streams.
  15. If your budget is super tight I'd save up just a little bit more. $250-$300USD and you could build a low end gaming computer with room to upgrade in the future.