SirRuc

well its been a bit over a week since i replaced my h100i with the intel stock cooler and no actual power cycling so that seems to be what was causing the short on a side note i hate a mild nightmare this last night/ this morning... it basically consisted of it power cycling and me being very sad because of it, thankfully when i woke up however my pc was still running just the way i left it -thanks for the help

unfortunately i don't have another psu to test with, but ill take her apart in the next day or two and visually inspect it what I do remember now however is that corsair link doesn't work correctly, after the pc loses power/power cycles the displayed widgets seem to get swaped out for exact copies of themselves with the exception that their data values (ex. fan speed, h100i temp) zero out and i have to delete/hide the widgets and grab them back from the list of widgets on the left but the fan curves and things like that (ie widget settings) and groupings don't get borked but even though the rgb led on the h100i is set to (255,255,0) yellow it doesn't display the yellow, it displays magenta, whilst setting it to white displays purple so something is def wrong there

System Specs lately (past week or 2 as of 11/16/2016) I have been experiencing sudden abrupt shutdowns and powercycling (sometimes power just kills and sometimes the power kills and it restarts right away) it appears to do this mainly when it is sitting idle, the only time it wasn't idle was when I was loading up factorio (a fairly easy to run 2d game about factory automation) and i believe that was the only time that power cycled when wasn't idling other than a couple times when the OS and startup programs were still loading in after a powercycle something to be of note is that the "main" power cables in my pc (24pin and 8pin motherboard cables nad the dual 8pin PCIE cables for gfx card) did not want to be fully plugged into their respective components, especially the 24 pin as it still technically isn't latched down, its about 0.1mm from being properly latched down after putting my hand under the mobo's 24 pin socket (to make sure the mobo didn't bend and applying a fair amount of force) I will try to upload the windows MEMORY.DMP file later but for now fyi windows explorer does say the last time it was modified was 1/18/2016 so there's a good chance it doesn't have anything useful I'm using the nzxt internal usb hub to hook both my PSU and H100i up for corsair link as the mobo annoyingly only has a single internal usb 2.0 header also this is my first custom built computer and I built this in late 2014 so yes I now know that pairing a 760 and a 4790k isn't the best of ideas and I at least was planing to replace it with a rx 480 this black friday/cyber monday until this started happening (i figured someone might mention it if I didn't) -edit: also my windows dump file is half a gig fyi -edit: dropbox link to dump file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u2i6t21xrmbu06n/MEMORY.DMP?dl=0 -update for now ive tried replacing the h100i with intel stock cooler and i will see in the coming week or 2 if that fixes it

it depends mainly on the most important thing of all - what color scheme would you like black/gray + red black/gray + rgb black/gray + yellow green + blue (I don't judge) also is this 4000 including the 900D you have and/or the water cooling parts - edit: I almost forgot will you be doing any custom painting and if so about how much

my referencing Broadway rarely being mentioned by anyone was in simple reference to the fact that with 6th gen skylake's release date was right around the corner when Broadway was released(I believe it was only 3 months) and as such broadway had to be rushed and was less than exiting as most die shrinks and the reason these particular boards I am referencing are "having issues persay" is not because of the price point or manufacturer as a whole but likely because they were rushed. And I do suppose that asrock board didn't have that many reviews but the asus one I saw back in 2014 had 200+ reviews and it had about 20% of the ratings at each rating (ie 19.65% 1star, 21.45% 2star, etc.) and just about all of these bad reviews cited the same thing: "my board was DOA and when I tried to RMA it asus denied it because" and I'm not sure which it was but it was either a cpu socket pin was bent or the cpu socket hold down lever was bent. Yes these things are rare and that asrock one may just be luck/ competition putting in bad reviews but one should still check these things

you don't necessarily need to get a more expensive mobo but don't get that one as a good 40%ish of reviews on newegg for it are 1 or 2 star (that's where I got he iGPU no work thing from) -edit the RMA thing I believe was form a $150 ASUS board baack in late 2014

just a warning you may want to consider when you do eventually buy the stuff is make absolutely sure you check the reviews on whatever mobo you get as even though a board might cost anywhere from $200 down to the $60 one you have there or even if it is from a reputable manufacturer for whatever reasons you will find that the reviews for boards will either show something along the lines of "it works at a great value" or "it has all the amazing things!?!" and some specific boards will show "board doesn't boot without discrete gpu" or large amounts (good 20-50% of reviews) of denied RMAs due to DOA like I said just about every price range that isn't outright expensive and every mobo manufacturer "has these problems" I'm guessing that for whatever reason these mobos are the ones that got rushed and didn't get to be tested for similar reasons that you never hear anyone talk about intel's 5th generation broadway cpus even though they where their first 14nm cpus -edit I cite mobos because I see that problem with them the most although as I'm sure you know you sould of course check the reviews for all the parts you buy

then this makes things much simpler - parallel will provide more water flow but will not provide redundancy if you want that (although I doubt that) if you are currently having it feed direct from res to pump to blocks you can have it (if there is an extra outlet on the bottom of that res) res separately to both pumps than splitter fitting (technically you are joining but whateves :P) then blocks and if you can have it so the blocks are fed from the top (starting from cpu instead of gpu) that will likely help as well, but might not be needed also if you can't get another of that same exact D5 do what you can to see if the specs for the pump itself are the same (i.e head pressure and flow rate) if they are not see if you can tone down the better pump to match the less with PWM p.s. It was late and I had a feeling I was going to/was be rude and a couple people on this forum appear to be emulating Linus senpai's whole attitude (and yes I know Linus is joking when he does it) of: *sees Luke move the camera feed on the stream to hide Linus but not Luke and proceeds to whine like a linus starved of attention

If you must use new parts then i would suggest waiting a few months until amd's AM4 platform and a couple of its apu's come out as they will probably be better bang for buck than whats out there currently

@Philz69 I'm not trying to be mean but I am going to be very blunt about this as I can tell what @EdInk is trying to tell you and I fully agree with them. I am of course assuming (and am probably right due to how new your system is) that your D5 is in proper working order, if it isn't: RMA it as a D5 should not be wearing out any noticeable amount with less than a year of use or even 5 years of always on use (I pulled up your build log briefly once I saw the link) 1. What we believe you are doing wrong and why I believe it is causing such a problem: 2. What we think you should do and my simple explanation: 3. If you still insist on getting a 2nd D5 for the sake of redundancy or you just plain have your reasons to not change the tubing connected to your water blocks no matter much we might try to persuade you: 4. and lastly something you can do if you really want the gpus to at least run parallel if you would like me to post a schematic of how the water will would flow with any of the methods i can just note it will not be till tomorrow as it is currently 1 AM and I need sleep and again I didn't mean to be mean (or provide such an information overload) but I just don't want you to waste $100+ on a D5 that you don't need(you may still need more flex tubing and petg piping) and yes I realize that most people call petg and acrylic tubing (being as both of them require you to A heat them up to bend them with any precision or at all and B both require you to slide a smaller tube inside them in order to bend without a kink

I know that the contest is over and all and I hate to be that guy but Linus Senpai has taught me too well so yeaaa...

if you are doing this simply for the sake of enjoyment then I would recommend 60Hz if this would be to prepare for competition than I can see 100Hz being useful and 144 as well IF you would be competing against people with 144Hz of course judging by the overall cost of a minimum of 3 way 980 ti or titan x (you may key word may want more than 6 gigs as it is more pixels than a single 4k UHD but unlike with 4k where you might not even need AA and if so id say only 2x unless the screen is closer the you would want to have for how big it is in comparison however not only is there about 10% extra pixels but do to the lower pixels per inch you would prob need 2x AA min with maybe 4 or 8X depending on screen size and distance from you if you are doing this simply for the sake of enjoyment then I would recommend 60Hz if this would be to prepare for competition than I can see 100Hz being useful and 144 as well IF you would be competing against people with 144Hz of course judging by the overall cost of a minimum of 3 way 980 ti or titan x (you may key word may want more than 6 gigs as it is more pixels than a single 4k UHD but unlike with 4k where you might not even need AA and if so id say only 2x unless the screen is closer the you would want to have for how big it is in comparison however not only is there about 10% extra pixels but do to the lower pixels per inch you would prob need 2x AA min with maybe 4 or 8X depending on screen size and distance from you -edit if it was 3 16:9 1440 vs 5 1080 then the 3 1440 with be about 10% harder to drive (puns) than the 5 1080s if you are doing 34" ultrawide how many

I may be pulling up a different monitor than the one you thought of at first but when I search AOC G-SYNC 24 inch newegg shows only 1 thing: AOC G2460PG 24" G-SYNC 3D-Ready Ultimate Performance Gaming Monitor 1ms (GTG) 144 Hz DisplayPort Widescreen LED Backlight

A. what games B. are you actually planning on running your games on all 5 monitors or will only 3 or 4 of them be used for the game itself with the other(s) being used for things like web browser or other non-demanding programs I am having some trouble deciphering how you could make good use of 5 24" displays if they are all displaying the same thing more or less (e. i. game would be displayed on all 5 vs otherwise) C. what refresh rate? that monitor can handle 144Hz buuut something tells me you aren't planning on doing such a thing for all 5 monitors

one last thing I should point out as well: if you do decide to wait for the gpu until the new ones but once you build your rig you realize that IGPU just isn't cutting it then you can still get a 970 or r9 390 -edit: my bad I almost forgot (again) although they are somewhat rumors pascal and polaris are expected to arrive sometime June - August for reference